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Open Access
Designing and construction of suitable clothing for elderly women of 65-85 years of age
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-07) Tyagi, Isha; Goel, Alka
As a person ages, usually agility decreases. Proper clothing for this time in life is vitally important to one's overall well-being and happiness. Attractive clothing that fits well is important for senior citizens, but they also desire clothing that improves functional independence, offers ease in dressing and undressing, provides physical & thermal comfort and contributes to ease in performing routine duties. Inspite of increasing number of elderly women in population, clothing designed especially for this age group is unavailable in market. Therefore, present research was carried out to know the needs and preferences of elderly women of 65-85 years of age in Udham Singh Nagar (Uttarakhand) and to design and construct suitable clothing for them accordingly. Elderly females preferred semi fitted, tailor made garments with cool colours, semi deep necklines and three quarter sleeves. Maximum females preferred buttons as fasteners and embroidery as trim. Among fabric properties, absorbency and light weight were preferred by maximum respondents. On the basis of results obtained from survey, 10 design sketches of Salwar kurta and gowns (5 each) were made. These sketches were then evaluated by a panel of judges comprising of Staff members and post graduate students of Home Science College, G.B.P.U.A. & T. Total 4 designs i.e. 2 designs of salwar kurta and 2 designs of gown which got maximum scores were selected for construction. The fitting of constructed dresses were tried and features like ease in wearing, ease in manipulating fasteners, safety, comfortability, appropriateness of garment to age and over all appearance were also evaluated by the respondents. The present study thus indicates that elderly women also want to fulfill their needs and desires related to clothing and they may be uncomfortable wearing the clothes they have, especially if those clothes are out of date, are in colours or designs that are mismatched or simply no longer fit properly. Elderly women form an important part of society, therefore their needs and desires related to clothing should not be neglected. Clothes which promote independent dressing and boost the psychological spirit of elderly females have been tried to prepare under the current research work.
Open Access
Design development for Pichhora through adaptation of Kumauni Aipan designs of Uttarakhand
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-07) Arya, Anuradha; Anita Rani
In India fabrics are enriched with a multitude of design consisting of figures, animals, plants, Gods, etc. reflecting the vitality of Indian people, their environment, social, cultural and political influences affecting the lives. In the present study, the folk art of Uttarakhand state, Aipan, was exploited for the development of the designs and their application on the customary apparel article of the state i.e., Pichhora of Kumaun region. The study was conducted in five districts namely; Udham Singh Nagar, Nainital, Almora, Pithoragrah and Champawat of Kumaun region of Uttarakhand state. The information was collected from housewives regarding prevalent designs of Pichhora and from shopkeepers & manufacturers on production and marketing practices adopted for Pichhoras to develop designs for Pichhoras through adaptation of Aipan designs and to prepare Pichhoras with selected designs using screen printing technique. Finally, the consumer acceptability of prepared Pichhoras was assessed. The results of study showed that the Pichhoras were purchased and worn by housewives on marriages and religious ceremonies by married women. Only warm colours were used owing to their religious significance and stylized and ethnic motifs were more prevalent. Majority of housewives preferred Pichhora embellished with kiran or gota on the edges and with sequins, beads and mirrors in body. In the market, Pichhoras cotton plain and chikan cotton were available. The production of the Pichhoras was done on the basis of market demand and order. Direct and rapid fast dyes were used by manufacturers for dyeing and printing, respectively. The cost of Pichhora was calculated by taking into account the raw material cost, labour cost and profit margin. The ethnic (chaukies) and stylized motifs (creepers) of Aipan were adapted for developing designs in two simplification and exaggeration ways and were got evaluated by experts of College of Home Science, G. B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar. The selected design border, ooti and centre were arranged in different arrangements and these arrangements were evaluated again by the panel of experts. Finally Pichhoras were printed with two selected arrangements. These Pichhoras were highly appreciated and accepted by the consumers.
Open Access
Clothing practices prevalent among college going students
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-07) Husain, Rabia; Anita Rani
The present study was conducted among male and female students of 17–19 years (under-graduate) and 21- 24 years (post-graduate) in G.B.P.U A & T, Pantnagar to study their existing clothing practices and impact of motivating factors and socializing agents on their clothing practices. It was found that maximum students possessed upper and lower garments and accessories in the range of one to five; maximum male students preferred branded where as maximum females students preferred non- branded garments and accessories. Majority of the students preferred cotton made upper and lower garments. Male students of both age groups and female students of 21-24 years preferred company of friends and female students of 17 -19 years preferred company of parents at the time of shopping and maximum students purchased as and when need arises. Also, maximum students preferred readymade accessories, tailor-made formal garments but male students preferred ready made casual clothes and female students preferred home made casual garments. Male students preferred purchasing from both places i.e., place of residence and study and female students preferred purchasing from place of residence. Urban residents preferred purchasing from city market and rural residents preferred purchasing from near by city or town. Maximum students preferred purchasing newly arrived merchandise from mix show rooms. While purchasing, male students of 17 -19 years preferred comfort and color styles where as males students of 21-24 years considered cost and collar style but the female students considered the fashion, style the most along with the workmanship. Cool colours were preferred most by all students. Television was source of information for garment characteristics; cash payment mode and labels were checked for fiber content and washing instruction and discussion with parents and friends prior to purchasing were preferred practices of the students. Maximum students used detergents powder and hand wash method for washing garments. They washed under garments daily, casual wear after 2-3 days and formal wear on weekly basis and dried their clothes on clothes line and in hangers. Television among mass media; fashion, social and religious events; siblings, peer group and affiliation to the group and availability of merchandise in the market were the motivating factors that affected clothing practices of the students. Socializing agents namely, family, peer group and society had varied impact on under graduate and post graduate male and female students on their clothing practices.
Open Access
Blending of Girardinia diversifolia (Bichhu) fibre with protein fibres for knits and evaluation of properties
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2007-07) Shahi, Pushpa; Goel, Alka
Bast fibres have good strength therefore, used for ropes, yarns, paper and textiles. Compared to the other natural and man-made textiles fibres, silk and wool fibres are certainly supreme. Wool is highly desirable textile material due to its useful properties such as warmth, excellent resilience and absorbance where as silk has good strength and luster. Present study was conducted to study the properties of girardinia, muzaffarnagari wool and mulberry silk waste fibres and also to improve appearance, feel, aesthetic appeal and performance of girardinia fibre through blending with muzaffarnagari wool and mulberry silk waste fibres. Physio-chemical properties of these fibres were studied and compared. Yarns were prepared on Bageshwari Charkha from pure girardinia and different proportion of girardinia fibres with muzaffarnagari wool and mulberry silk waste fibres viz. 100:00:00, 25:65:10, 45:45:10 and 65:25:10. Physical properties of pure giraradinia and blended yarns of girardinia, muzaffarnagari wool and mulberry silk waste fibres were evaluated and compared. Yarns were dyed with direct, acid and reactive dye and their colour fastness was tested against light, washing and crocking. Pure girardinia and blended fabrics were prepared through knitting and their physical properties were also assessed. Different products were developed and their economic cost was also estimated. Findings of this study showed that blending of girardinia, muzaffarnagari wool and mulberry silk waste fibres brings a about a favorable improvement in the properties of resultant fabric. Blended fabrics has comparatively less weight, better insulation power, greater moisture content and enhanced aesthetic appeal than the fabric made from pure girardinia fibres. Thus from present study it can be concluded that 45:45:10 girardinia, muzaffarnagari wool and mulberry silk waste fibres blend proportion is best in all respect i.e., from performance and good aesthetic appeal at reasonable cost.
Open Access
Eri silk fabric combinations: Enhancement of dyeing and physical properties through chemical treatments
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2007-07) Mittal, Isha; Gahlot, Manish
Eri silk is synonym to eco friendly textiles. Traditionally, eri silk woven fabric is stiff, rough and not easily drapeable, thereby concealing the intrinsic properties of texture, softness, bulkiness and colour of eri silk fibres. Diversification of eri silk products is the key element to withstand competition of other fibres and enhance its commercial potential in today‟s market. In this study three fabric combinations of eri silk namely, eri x eri, eri x tasar and eri x mulberry were prepared. The degummed and bleached samples were treated with three chemicals out of which one chemical was selected through visual evaluation of the samples of all fabric combinations. All samples were then treated with three concentrations (15, 25 and 35 percent) of selected chemical. The physical properties of all samples were tested and compared with that of the control samples. Then the treated samples were dyed with reactive and natural dyes and were assessed for colour fastness and colour strength. At last seven products were prepared and evaluated visually for assessing suitability of eri silk fabric combinations for prepared articles. Formic acid was selected for pretreatment of all fabrics in visual evaluation. The physical properties and colour strength of all fabrics were best on treatment with 35 percent formic acid. The colourfastness of the dyed fabric combinations was good and it improved with increase in the concentration of formic acid. The eri x eri fabric was considered more suitable for household articles, eri x tasar fabric for upper garments and eri x mulberry fabric for lower garments and home furnishing articles.
Open Access
Optimization of dyeing process for Muga silk fabric with reactive dye and effect of dyeing on its physical properties
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2007-07) Gauri; Anita Rani
The product base of golden muga silk fabric can be elaborated if it is possible to dye it in different shades of colour with good fastness. The dyed muga silk fabric will enable the fashion designers to make unique fashion statements by its use. Exploration of versatile class of dye i.e., reactive dye for the application on muga silk fabric without any loss of inherent characteristics like sheen and texture can serve as a boon to the wild silk sector. The present study was conducted to select two dyes from different classes of reactive dyes. The dyeing process was optimized with two selected classes of reactive dyes namely Procion M and Vinyl sulphone. The dyeing variables optimized were per cent shade of dyestuff, dyeing time, dyeing temperature, amount of alkali and material to liquor ratio. Four per cent shade of Procion M gave best results when dyeing was carried out for 1 hour 15 minutes at 40ºC using 25 g/l of alkali and 1:30 material to liquor ratio. Whereas, in case of Vinyl sulphone dye, 3 per cent shade of dyestuff gave best results when dyeing was done at 75ºC for 1 hour 15 minutes with 20 g /l of alkali and 1:30 material to liquor ratio. The dyed fabric samples exhibited excellent colour fastness to washing, perspiration, drycleaning and ironing when muga silk fabric was dyed with Procion M and Vinyl sulphone dye. The dyed fabric showed very good fastness to light and rubbing which was improved slightly after optimization process. The longitudinal view of dyed muga silk fabric was smoother and more uniform as compared to control fabric. The thickness, crease recovery and moisture regain of the dyed fabric increased but fabric weight, tensile strength and bending length decreased slightly after dyeing.
Open Access
Development of training module for the problems of carpet weavers of pithoragarh and creation of carpet designs through CAD
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2008-08) Bhargava, Deepti; Goel, Alka
The tradition of carpet weaving in India is centuries old. The origin of carpet weaving in India goes to 16th century. The Mughals brought Persian weavers to India and learned the Persian technique of carpet weaving from them. The word carpet is a thick fabric used for spreading on floor or stairs, made commonly of wool, frequently patterned in colours and made by knotting short length of weft threads during weaving. Major carpet production centres of Uttarakhand are Dehradun, Pithoragarh, Almora, Bagheshwar etc. Pithoragarh (Uttarakhand) was selected as locale of the study because carpet weaving is more concentrated here as compared to other centres because a large number of Bhotia people are living here. They have inherent talent of knotting of carpets which is passed through generations. These carpets are limited to the state market only because weavers were not having knowledge about the carpet finishing. Moreover, they were following the same carpet designs since many generations. Therefore, training module was developed and training was imparted to the carpet weavers of Pithoragarh. 90% weavers were found to be interested in adopting the training regarding carpet finishing. Major objective of the training was to develop the carpet finishing skills in the carpet weavers. The content areas of the training were finishing of loose warp ends, clipping of piles, binding of carpets and moth proofing. As carpet weavers were following the same designs since generations, they were encouraged to create new designs. Thirty five carpet designs were developed by researcher using Corel Draw 12 software. These designs were visually evaluated by the thirty respondents. Design no. 34, 33 and 9 were adjudged as 1st, 2nd and 3rd best designs among all the carpet designs. Samples of three best selected designs were also got prepared from weavers. These designs were shown to the weavers to make them aware of new carpet designs. Weavers were encouraged to create and practice new carpet designs. From the results obtained in the present study, it can be concluded that after development of training module and imparting training to the carpet weavers, the carpet weavers learned and adopted the carpet finishing skills. Thus, the quality in terms of finishing and overall appearance will be improved in future after application of these skills. Carpet weavers were also made aware about the importance of new carpet designs in order to enhance the beauty of the carpets.
Open Access
Natural dyes from Pseudomonas fluorescens: Extraction, characterization and optimization of dyeing process for textiles
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2007-12) Mishra, Anupama; Shahnaz Jahan
The textile industry which is among most polluting industries, witnesses an increased demand for dyes and finishes which are multifunctional and are preferably eco-friendly and renewable. Natural dyes are being looked at as an “Eco-solution” to the ill effects of synthetic dyes. The Indian textile exporters have resorted to the use of natural dyes so that the products appeal to the green minded consumer. Therefore, present study has been taken for optimization of fermentation conditions for pigment production and dyeing variables for dyeing of natural fibers i.e. silk, wool and cotton with natural dye extracted from two isolates of Pseudomonas fluorescens using different mordants. Pigments from both the isolates were extracted, characterized and their related inherent properties were studied. In case of strain Pf-24 Modified King’s B agar medium at pH-7.0 was optimized which incubated at 25ºC for 2 days. Isolate Pf-27 was inoculated on broth medium at pH-7.0 and incubated in stationary incubator at 25ºC for 5 days for getting maximum pigment of desired colour. FTIR and NMR spectroscopy characterized that both the pigments were classified under phenazine derivatives. Two gram concentration of both the dyes at pH-5 gave best results on silk and wool at 70ºC for 60 minutes. In case of cotton skeins dyeing, 4gm concentration of both the dyes at pH-9, 90ºC for 75 minutes was selected as optimum. The M: L ratio was kept as 1:30 in both the cases. Simultaneous mordanting method selected for metallic mordants on all type of yarns whereas pre-mordanting method was selected for natural mordants. Three gram amla, pomegranate rind and walnut bark, 4.0g tea leaves were found to produce best results with dye from Pf-24 on silk and wool samples. The optimum concentration was 4.0g for babool bark and pomegranate rind, 3.0g for tea leaves for dyeing cotton yarns. In case of dye extracted from Pf-27 same concentration of all the natural mordants for silk, 3.0g for wool and. 4.0g for cotton were selected. For silk and wool dyeing 0.02g ferrous sulphate, copper sulphate, alum and 0.03g tartaric acid selected as optimum with the dye from Pf-24. Cotton skeins were mordanted with 0.02g ferrous sulphate, alum and 0.03g tannic acid In case of dye extracted from Pf-27, 0.02g copper sulphate and 0.03g ferrous sulphate, alum and tannic acid gave bright shades on silk samples. In case of wool samples, 0.03g ferrous sulphate and 0.02g copper sulphate, alum and tannic acid and for cotton 0.02g ferrous sulphate and 0.03g alum and tannic acid were recommended. All the natural as well as metallic mordants improved the colourfastness of dyed samples. Colour coordinates and depth of colour of various dyed and mordanted samples were evaluated. In most of the cases, mordants gave higher depth to the samples. Negligible toxicity in both the dyes was observed to mammalian cells as well as for silkworm. All the experimental dyed fabrics were also found safe to use and they were not harmful to human skins. Maximum increase in UPF was observed in case of samples dyed with dye extracted from Pf-27 as compared to samples dyed with Pf-24. Antimicrobial activity of both the dyes was assessed which showed better antimicrobial activity against gram positive bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus than gram negative bacteria, E. coli.
Open Access
Manufacturing of Angora-Lyocell blended fabric and use of CAD for preparation of eco-fashion apparels
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2008-08) Goel, Bhawana; Goel, Alka
Textiles are rapidly and constantly changing with the introduction of new fibers and new technologies for processing and finishing of familiar fibers. One such process in textile is blending, which is done to improve spinning, weaving and finishing efficiency and to gain the uniformity in products. Use of expensive/rare fibers can be extended by blending them with more cheaper/plentiful fibers with desirable positive attributes, essential to make quality products. Today synthetic fibers are commonly used throughout the world. Most of them are non-biodegradable and are used to such an extent that their disposal has become increasingly difficult. Textile consumers all over the world perpetually looking for biodegradable and eco-friendly textiles to preserve the environment thus use of eco-friendly fibers and fabrics are gradually gaining importance throughout the world. Thus in view of the above stated importance of blending technology and taking the major environmental pollution issue into consideration, it was thought worthwhile to use blending technology for the enrichment of angora hair fiber, obtained from angora rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus), with a regenerated cellulosic fiber lyocell, obtained from wood pulp through an eco-friendly processing technology and sold under the brand name Tencel. Angora wool has special characteristics like excellent whiteness, superb softness, lightness and warmth it can play an important role in the livelihood security of a large population of small farmers and landless laborers in the temperate and sub temperate climatic conditions on Himalayan region of our country. But for the reason of rare availability and high cost, it cannot fulfil the massive demand of the textile industry sector. Along with this, angora hairs cannot process alone because of its smooth surface structure, lack of crimp and prominent medulla, which resulted in disturbance during mechanical processing of pure angora. Low moisture absorbency resulted in generation of high level of static charge. Thus in the present research attempt has been made to blend the angora with lyocell fiber. Modern technology of blending, spinning was used to overcome its processing difficulties. CAD was used to make value added eco-fashion apparels, which were found helpful in saving time, money, energy consumption and bring down the cost which in turn ensured the availability of angora to more people at affordable rates. It will also help to generate additional income and employment for the farmers living in Himalayan region of India and dealing with angora wool and their products. Animal hair fibers need to pass through various stages of processing and cleaning. Five kinds of ring spun yarn samples on cotton spinning system were developed. Fiber properties were evaluated on the basis of the end use of fibers Five kind of pure and blended yarns were tested for estimating the quality of raw material and for controlling the quality of fabric produced. It was found that it is possible to produce good quality strong fine even yarn with less hairiness through blending of angora with lyocell. The effect of two synthetic dyes i.e., acid, reactive and one natural dye henna (lowsonia inermis) were studied on pure and blended angora-lyocell yarns. Out of these, reactive dye showed good result on both fibers. In order to ensure that the product being manufactured will meet the desired quality level and confirm to any laid down specifications for their intended purpose, woven fabric samples of pure and different ratios of angora and lyocell blends were tested for various structural, mechanical, aesthetic and comfort properties. All the pure and blended fabrics were found suitable for preparation of different types of luxury women eco-fashion apparels for different occasions. The blending of angora with lyocell fibers bring down favourable improvement in economy, performance, comfort and aesthetic appeal of garments. Garment designing with CAD was also attempted for value addition of the pure and blended garments. This advanced software’s programme was found very effective to save time, money and energy consumption. Total 20 designs were made for all pure and blended fabrics of angora and lyocell fabrics, with the help of adobe photoshopCS3 software and were evaluated by panel of 60 judges. Five highest ranked/selected designs were further used for construction of garments with selected fabrics. To assess the market potential opinion of the 15 traders dealing with the manufacturing and marketing of such products was sought. Traders appreciated the attempt and have shown favourable inclination for the value added eco-fashion apparels made from pure and blended angora and lyocell fabrics. Thus the findings of the present research study concluded that pure and blended angora and lyocell ecofashion apparels will have a great potential to finds its own place in today’s competitive global market and can fetch premium price in both domestic and global market as now a day’s customers are giving more importance to eco-friendly products. It would open avenues for trade and contributed to the livelihood security of the angora rearing community living in Himalayan region and deals with angora wool production and marketing of their products. This will also reduce the migration of youth from their places.

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