Design development for Pichhora through adaptation of Kumauni Aipan designs of Uttarakhand
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Date
2009-07
Authors
Arya, Anuradha
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
In India fabrics are enriched with a multitude of design consisting of figures, animals, plants, Gods, etc. reflecting the vitality of Indian people, their environment, social, cultural and political influences affecting the lives. In the present study, the folk art of Uttarakhand state, Aipan, was exploited for the development of the designs and their application on the customary apparel article of the state i.e., Pichhora of Kumaun region. The study was conducted in five districts namely; Udham Singh Nagar, Nainital, Almora, Pithoragrah and Champawat of Kumaun region of Uttarakhand state. The information was collected from housewives regarding prevalent designs of Pichhora and from shopkeepers & manufacturers on production and marketing practices adopted for Pichhoras to develop designs for Pichhoras through adaptation of Aipan designs and to prepare Pichhoras with selected designs using screen printing technique. Finally, the consumer acceptability of prepared Pichhoras was assessed. The results of study showed that the Pichhoras were purchased and worn by housewives on marriages and religious ceremonies by married women. Only warm colours were used owing to their religious significance and stylized and ethnic motifs were more prevalent. Majority of housewives preferred Pichhora embellished with kiran or gota on the edges and with sequins, beads and mirrors in body. In the market, Pichhoras cotton plain and chikan cotton were available. The production of the Pichhoras was done on the basis of market demand and order. Direct and rapid fast dyes were used by manufacturers for dyeing and printing, respectively. The cost of Pichhora was calculated by taking into account the raw material cost, labour cost and profit margin. The ethnic (chaukies) and stylized motifs (creepers) of Aipan were adapted for developing designs in two simplification and exaggeration ways and were got evaluated by experts of College of Home Science, G. B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar. The selected design border, ooti and centre were arranged in different arrangements and these arrangements were evaluated again by the panel of experts. Finally Pichhoras were printed with two selected arrangements. These Pichhoras were highly appreciated and accepted by the consumers.