Optimization of dyeing process for Muga silk fabric with reactive dye and effect of dyeing on its physical properties

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Date
2007-07
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G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
The product base of golden muga silk fabric can be elaborated if it is possible to dye it in different shades of colour with good fastness. The dyed muga silk fabric will enable the fashion designers to make unique fashion statements by its use. Exploration of versatile class of dye i.e., reactive dye for the application on muga silk fabric without any loss of inherent characteristics like sheen and texture can serve as a boon to the wild silk sector. The present study was conducted to select two dyes from different classes of reactive dyes. The dyeing process was optimized with two selected classes of reactive dyes namely Procion M and Vinyl sulphone. The dyeing variables optimized were per cent shade of dyestuff, dyeing time, dyeing temperature, amount of alkali and material to liquor ratio. Four per cent shade of Procion M gave best results when dyeing was carried out for 1 hour 15 minutes at 40ºC using 25 g/l of alkali and 1:30 material to liquor ratio. Whereas, in case of Vinyl sulphone dye, 3 per cent shade of dyestuff gave best results when dyeing was done at 75ºC for 1 hour 15 minutes with 20 g /l of alkali and 1:30 material to liquor ratio. The dyed fabric samples exhibited excellent colour fastness to washing, perspiration, drycleaning and ironing when muga silk fabric was dyed with Procion M and Vinyl sulphone dye. The dyed fabric showed very good fastness to light and rubbing which was improved slightly after optimization process. The longitudinal view of dyed muga silk fabric was smoother and more uniform as compared to control fabric. The thickness, crease recovery and moisture regain of the dyed fabric increased but fabric weight, tensile strength and bending length decreased slightly after dyeing.
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