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Open Access
Optimization and application of microcapsules for meditech and agrotech textiles
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2022-02) Sonu Rani; Goel, Alka
Under microencapsulation process, tiny particles or droplets are surrounded by a coating to give small capsules, which can impart functional properties. Microencapsulation finish can be applied to textiles to incorporate desirable properties as per their end-use. Meditech textiles are used for medical applications including healthcare and protective textiles. Antimicrobial property is one of the desirable property in healthcare textiles. Agrotech is the application of textile material in agriculture field i.e. Jute regulates humidity and allows “natural breathing” thus proved better in maintaining the quality of seed compare to air tight containers. Under the present study five essential oils namely Basil, Acorus, Bottlebrush, Eucalyptus and Neem oil were taken for screening. Three types of gums were procured i.e. Acacia gum, guar gum and Sodium alginate gum. Simple coacervation and complex coacervation technique of phase separation in microencapsulation process were used. Optimization of concentration of gum and essential oil was done for microcapsules formation, where 1:2 ratio of gum acacia with basil oil was found suitable and 1:3 ratio was found suitable for acacia gum with neem oil. Optimization of temperature was done at varied temperatures i.e.350C,400C,450C,500C and 550C. Most appropriate temperature noted for microcapsules formation was 400 C. Then, for microencapsulation various pH conditions were checked i.e. acidic, alkaline and neutral. Acidic pH was found most suitable compared to other conditions. All the precipitates, containing microcapsules were analyzed under Digivision microscope and on the basis of size, shape and quantity of microcapsules formed. Two oils and one gum was finalized where basil oil with gum Acacia for medical textiles and neem oil with gum acacia for agrotech applications. After optimization of recipe, the microencapsulated finish was applied on cotton and jute fabrics .Then, Scanning Electron Microscopy was done to varify the presence of microcapsules in both treated cotton and treated jute fabric. Durability of the finish was assessed using rubbing fastness, perspiration fastness, light fastness and wash fastness test. These tests envisaged the increase or decrease in the amount of aroma after applications. Weighted mean score was applied for all the scores of treated fabrics. Durability of microcapsules formed by using simple coacervation technique were found better as compared to complex coacervation technique. Physical properties of control and treated (microencapsulated) fabrics were assessed i.e. cotton and jute. Fabric count was found same for both the control and treated fabrics. Fabric weight/ meter2, bending length (in warp and weft), drape coefficient, thickness, abrasion resistance of both the treated cotton and treated jute fabrics were increased which assure the application of microcapsules in both the fabrics. Microencapsulation finish resulted in no pilling for both the control and treated cotton, as well as jute fabrics. It was found that crease recovery angle, elongation decreased in both the treated fabrics of cotton and jute. It was found that air permeability (both in single as well as double layer) decreased in treated cotton. It was noted that bursting strength, tensile strength of both cotton and jute fabrics increased after finish application. Tearing strength of both the treated cotton and treated jute fabrics decreased in both warp and weft directions. Qualitative assessment of antibacterial activity revealed that both the treated cotton and treated jute fabrics showed good zone of inhibition at 60 μl against S. aureus whereas treated cotton fabric also showed zone of inhibition towards gram negative bacteria E. coli. Quantitative assessment of antibacterial activity revealed reduction in CFU of bacteria on treated cotton and treated jute were found more, compare to control fabrics. Storage test was conducted to check the efficacy of jute bags prepared as agrotech product. Jute bag treated with Neem oil was found effective against pests. Highest germination was found for seeds stored in treated bag. Cotton fabric given microencapsulation finish using basil oil was used for development of meditech. Masks treated with Ocimum basilicum were found effective against airborne infections. Pre and post awareness about mask was judged on the basis of responses obtained from hundred respondents. The prepared mask were found to have good protection properties against bacteria (S. aureus). Overall, developed masks were well accepted by the respondents.
Open Access
Development of size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand and construction of designed khadi kurties
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-07) Gayatri; Goel, Alka
Khadi is hand spun and hand woven fabric. Thus, it’s known for its unique texture and comfortable feel. It is general observation that readymade khadi garments are unfashionable. Therefore, these are not preferred by young population for their own clothing. Moreover fitting of khadi garments is also not approved due to unavailability of size charts. Present study was carried out to develop size chart and design khadi kurties. In this study, three surveys were conducted, first one to collect information related to respondent’s awareness about khadi, buying practices and preferences for readymade kurties, second survey was to collect anthropometric measurements and third survey was to know consumers preference for readymade khadi kurties. Sample size for I and III survey was 100 and that of III survey was 1000. Respondents (21-31years) were selected from two geographical region viz., GBPUA&T, Pantnagar (1000 m. Above MSL) and DSB Campus, Kumaun University (1000-2500 m. Above MSL), Nainital of Uttarakhand. Anthropometric measurements were taken as per ISO 8559:1989 (En) standard. Size chart were developed based on anthropometric measurements and were compared with national and international brands. Second part of research was designing of kurties in which 32 kurties (16 A-line & 16 flared) were designed using different constructional features using Jindex CAD software. Designed kurties were evaluated by panel of judges and out of which 5 kurties each were selected based on average WMS. Block and machine embroidered motifs arrangements were done separately on selected kurties. Total 60 designs arrangements were developed which included 30 designs each for block and machine embroidery motif. Out of this, total 20 designs were selected for development on fabric. Out of 20 designs 5 designs each were of A-line kurti with block printing and machine embroidered and 5 designs each were of flared kurties with block printing and machine embroidery. Constructed designs were evaluated by target consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Obtained data was subjected to statistical analysis. Result of first survey indicates that respondents were aware about khadi but were not using it because lack of fit and trendy/ appealing designs. Size chart was developed by conducting an anthropometric survey as per ISO 8559: 1989 (en) of 1000 females (21-31 years) from two geographical regions of Uttarakhand i.e., hill (1000-2500 m. altitude) and foot hill or plain (below 1000 m. altitude) by equal stratified sampling technique. It was observed that all collected measurements were normally distributed in the second survey. Vertical and horizontal measurements showed positive correlation with height and weight. Variation in the maximum body measurements (cm) of females (21-31 years) of both regions was found to be highly significant means there is variation in body measurements of females living in two different geographical regions. Then, based on percentile approach, the size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand was developed with the five size codes ‘S’, ‘M’, ‘L’, ‘XL’, and ‘XXL’. Taking the most preferred constructional feature of kurties obtained from III survey, designing and constructional of kurti was done. Designed and constructed kurties were well accepted and appreciated by target group and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Cost estimation was also accepted by the consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels.
Open Access
Delignification of Dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata) fibres for value addition with blending and development of union fabric
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-02) Bhatt, Pooja; Anita Rani
The natural fibres have dominated and coexisted with synthetic fibres in textile industry for long period of time. The alarming environmental concerns with increased used of synthetic fibres shifted research interest towards resources of natural and lignocellulosic fibres. The bast fibres have provided an opportunity to lead towards high quality textile market with economic and environmental benefits. Sesbania aculeata locally known as dhaincha has abundant possibilities in textile sector. It is only used for green manuring in Tarai region of Uttarakhand to enrich soil. The coarse nature and high lignin content limits use of dhaincha fibres in textile sector. Therefore, present study was planned to delignify dhaincha fibres to increase softness; spin yarns through blending with cotton and bamboo fibres and to prepare union fabrics from blended yarns. The dhaincha fibres were extracted using stagnant water retting method for 15 days. The variables for delignification i.e., acetic acid concentration, sodium chlorite concentration, sodium hydroxide concentration and sodium hydroxide treatment time were optimized using Box Behnken Design of RSM. The effect of independent variables on dhaincha fibres after delignification treatment was observed on lignin content, tenacity, moisture regain and whiteness index of fibres. The dhaincha fibres were delignified in bulk using optimized recipe for delignification treatment. The physical properties of fibres obtained after retting and delignification treatment were assessed to observe effect of delignification on properties of fibres. The delignified dhaincha fibres were blended with cotton and bamboo fibres in two ratios, 30:70 and 40:60 to develop blended yarns on computerized Trytex Rotor Spinning Machine. The union fabrics were prepared from the blended yarns in weft and cotton and bamboo yarns as warp respectively on handloom using plain weave. The developed yarn and fabric samples were tested for various physical and functional properties. The findings of study revealed that delignification treatment enhanced the softness and whiteness index of dhaincha fibres thereby, could increase economic viability and utility of the plant. The SEM images showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and impurities and XRD analysis revealed decrease in crystallinity index of dhaincha fibres and increased amorphous regions in fibres after delignification. FTIR spectroscopy showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and pectin to some extent after delignification. Rotor spun blended yarns were of low count, strength and yarn twist. Fabric properties were found to be affected by blending of dhaincha with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios. Blending increased thickness and weight in case of both dhaincha:cotton and dhaincha:bamboo woven union fabric samples. The union fabric samples exhibited good air permeability and wettability after blending of dhaincha fibres with cotton and bamboo. Tensile and tearing strength were found good in weft direction of prepared woven fabric samples due to high fabric count in weft direction. All union fabric samples exhibited low crease recovery and bending length than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. Thus, delignified dhaincha fibres and union fabrics developed from dhaincha, cotton and bamboo would offer diversified textile and might widen scope of use of plant for different value added products.
Open Access
Documentation of Naqquashi Nirmal Arts of Telangana and textile product development through hand painting
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-01) Challa, Lakshmi; Gahlot, Manisha
Telangana state is considered as home for many of the handicrafts and handloom wonders of Indian textiles. The present study was a descriptive, exploratory and product development research devised to produce different hand painted textiles using Nirmal art designs. The objectives were to document the traditional paintings of the Nirmal arts, their evolution and developmental aspects, to carry out the design development process to develop a range of textile products, to assess the consumer and market acceptance of the developed products. The primarily available sources for documentation were Nirmal artists. Inferential approach was used to explore the Nirmal art in different contexts. The artefacts made under the umbrella of Nirmal arts included toys, paintings and furniture. Detailed research on the survival journey of Nirmal painting from tradition to innovation along the historic timeline was presented. The present study focused on the painting sector of Nirmal arts. The base used was derived from wood of Ponniki tree (Givotia rottleriformis). The colours used were natural pigments derived from herbs, vegetables, fruits and mineral deposits. The distinguishing feature of the Nirmal art was the Naqquashi work. It refers to the tracing process used for design. It was done with the help of perforated muslin fabric and chalk powder. The traced design was then painted with the tempera technique using pigment colours. The choice of the pigment was based on the season along with type, nature and source of the pigment. The themes used were drawn from ancient literary and folk traditions. The products made included portraits, wall panels, screen partitions, etc. Ten primary and ancillary motifs were selected from the collected Nirmal traditional paintings for adaptation process. The motifs were digitized by using CorelDraw Graphics Suite 2019 and Adobe Photoshop 7.0. Design arrangements were made using selected primary and ancillary motif combinations for each of the three products. Selected design arrangements were used for product development. Nine products were developed that included three of each silk sarees, silk stoles and cotton wall decorations using hand painting technique with natural pigments. These were evaluated by panel of subject experts, prospective consumers, fashion designers, fashion business experts and Nirmal artists. The respondents highly appreciated the developed hand painted products. It can be inferred that the saree 1 created by using the dancing couple and ambari was highly preferred by the subject experts, consumers and the retailers. The stole (Matsya Kanya and the cash bag) was given the first rank by subject experts, consumers. Wall decoration (Apsara on the veena with the floral twines) was given first rank by consumers and retailers in terms of different parameters like aesthetic appearance, the base fabric used and the design arrangements. There exists an ample scope for design, product development and commercialization prospects for the Nirmal arts in textiles.
Open Access
Delignification of Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) ribbons for fibre extraction and development of blended yarns and fabrics
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-11) Singh, Beenu; Gahlot, Manisha
The best step towards nature conservation is the use of eco friendly products in our day to day life. The hills of Himalayas are endowed with indigenous flora rich in natural fibres due to favourable climatic conditions. Under the belt of mountainous region of Uttarakhand state, there are immense fibre yielding plant species growing wildly and have potential to become source of livelihood for local community of hilly areas. Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) plant, locally known as bicchu buti is one of the fibre yielding plant with lots of good properties. Therefore, present study was planned to utilize nettle fibres for the preparation of blended fabrics with cotton and bamboo. The nettle fibres were extracted through delignification method. The variables of delignification i.e., sodium chlorite concentration, acetic acid concentration, treatment time and sodium hydroxide concentration of selected delignification process were optimized using BBD of RSM. Responses taken were tensile strength and lignin content. Total 29 experiments were conducted for delignification and on the basis of maximum tensile strength and minimum lignin content delignification method was optimised for extraction of nettle fibres in bulk. Comparison between the physical properties of fibres obtained with delignification method and water retting method was done to observe the effect of delignification on properties of fibre. Processed nettle fibres were carded and then blended with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios on mini carding machine and machine spun to produce 100% cotton and 100% bamboo and blended yarns on computerized Trytex Rotor Spinning Machine. For the production of plain weave pure and blended fabrics automatic sampling rapier loom was used. The developed fabric samples were tested for various physical and functional properties. It can be concluded from the results of study that delignification was found suitable method for extraction of fibres directly from ribbons. Further, it was observed that the delignified fibres exhibited better physical properties like tenacity, elongation, fineness, and whiteness index. The SEM images of delignified fibres showed less presence of impurities than control fibres. Crystallanity index of nettle fibre increased after delignification. FTIR spectroscopy showed removal of lignin and hemicelluloses content from delignified nettle fibres. Fabric properties were found to be affected by blending of nettle with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios. Blending increased the thickness and weight in case of both nettle:cotton and nettle:bamboo blended woven fabric samples. Blended fabric samples exhibited good abrasions resistance, air permeability and good functional properties than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. Tensile strength and tearing strength was found good in weft direction. All blended fabric sample exhibited low crease recovery and more bending length than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. In both the blended fabric samples 65:35 nettle:cotton and 65:35 nettle:bamboo fabric samples exhibited good UPF ratings. Thus this study would be beneficial for proper utilization of nettle fibres by local communities for sustainable development.
Open Access
Optimization of dyeing process for silk fabric using Talaromyces purpurogenus fungal dye
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-02) Verma, Himani; Anita Rani
Increased need of sustainable development in every industrial sector has diverted focus on promotion of alternative resources to chemicals currently in use. Hence, natural colourants have drawn attention of textile industry as a safe and green alternative to synthetic dyes. Plants and animals resources do not offer feasible solution owing to associated limitation, like loss of biodiversity and deforestation resulting in ecological imbalance. Microorganisms are thus, promising and potential alternatives for colouration of textiles in present times. Further, use of biopolymer and plasma along with mordant, offer ecofriendly solution to problems related to voluminous effluent release from textile industries. In present study coloured solution yielded from growth of T. purpurogenus on organic waste was used for dyeing of silk fabric. Box-Behnkon Design of Response Surface Methodology was used for optimization of dyeing and mordanting variables. Biopolymer and plasma treatment were also applied individually as well as in combination to improve colour properties of silk fabric. The optimized dyeing variables obtained for application of T. purpurogenus fungal dye on silk fabric were 5 pH, 80ºC dyeing temperature and 65 minutes dyeing time. Likewise optimized mordanting variables for pomegranate rind and alum were 5 and 0.2 g mordant concentration, 50 ºC and 50 ºC mordanting temperature and 30 minutes and 15 minutes mordanting time, respectively. The dyeing process had minimum effect on strength of fabric in case of mordanted, chitosan and plasma treated and dyed silk fabric. Colour strength improved in all dyed silk fabric samples except one mordanted with alum. Slight improvement was observed in light fastness of dyed silk fabric samples owing to mordanting and pre treatments but still it reached to level very poor to fair. All dyed fabric samples before and after application of treatment and their combinations exhibited very good to excellent wash fastness while rubbing fastness was found excellent. Improvement in UPF was observed only in case of pomegranate rind treated samples. Very little antimicrobial resistance was also observed in fabric samples treated with pomegranate rind. Thus T. purpurogenus fungal dye can be used for dyeing silk fabric using HTHP dyeing machine in shades of raddish brown.
Open Access
Traditional tribal textiles of Uttarakhand: A study on production and consumption practices among Bhotia tribals
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-02) Rawat, Harsha; Anita Rani
The traditional textiles of India reflect rich heritage of the communities residing in the country and offer diversified product range. The tribal communities have significant contribution towards these traditional textiles. In Uttarakhand state, out of five tribal communities, Bhotias reside in high Himalayan region and are known for their handloom weaving craft since decades. This art was practiced by women folk and handed over to a daughter by her mother. So present research was planned to study and document the traditional textiles of Bhotia tribe and their production tools and method besides their consumption practices. The survey method was used for data collection and laboratory testing of material was done to establish physical and functional properties of traditional textiles. Purposive sampling was used for selecting 400 respondents of study from five sub-groups i.e., Tolcha, Marcha, Shauka, Rung, Jadhs and Khampa. The traditional textiles produced by the Bhotia tribals using the traditional methods were more sustainable than those used in contemporary textiles produced in bulk by the industries in terms of raw materials used, acceptance among local people and income generation for tribals. There were total ten traditional textiles produced in different sub-groups of Bhotia tribe namely dun, assan, chutka, thulma, pankhi, kambal, shawl, stole, muffler, pakhi, coat-patti and woollen dress material. Out of which dun and asan were the products, manufactured in five sub-groups of Bhotia tribe who practiced weaving while chutka, pankhi, coat-patti, pakhi, shawl, stole and muffler were produce in few sub-groups only. Kambal and woollen dress material production had stopped completely. The production steps involved scouring of fibers, carding, spinning, weaving and finishing. Traditional looms used were vertical loom, backstrap loom, pit loom and handloom. People of this tribe did not purchase traditional textiles for own use. All the textiles possessed by them were either self produced or inherited from their ancestors. Neither weavers nor non-weavers of Bhotia tribe possessed all the traditional textiles. Dun and aasan were only traditional textiles in possession of all weavers and non-weavers belonging to different sub-groups of Bhotia tribe. The use of traditional textiles among the Bhotia tribals was affected by mass-media, technology, availability of contemporary textiles, education, income, employment, education and impact of westernization. The major reasons found responsible for the reduction in weaving practices were increased cost of local wool required for weaving and no profit in selling traditional textiles. The marketing problem was addressed by conducting training on brand designing and labeling. Brand label was also developed for promotion of textiles produce by Bhotia tribals. The prepared database of the collected information on traditional textiles of Bhotia tribe was transformed into a booklet and a video film in two parts. These would be helpful in establishing identity of the diminishing craft of Bhotia people among their young generation besides serving as the handy omnibus for the craft lovers, research scholars and tribals for promotion of traditional crafts.
Open Access
Optimization of dyeing process for wool fabric with dyes extracted from Acalypha wilkesiana leaves and Ficus glomerata bark and evaluation of functional properties
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-02) Singh, Aadita; Shahnaz Jahan
The present research study was planned to identify new sources of natural dyes having antibacterial properties. The objective of the study is to optimize the dyeing and mordanting conditions, assessing antibacterial activity, ultraviolet protection factor, fastness and physical properties of the dyed fabric. Dyes were extracted using Acalypha wilkesiana leaves and Ficus glomerata bark for dyeing of wool fabric. Optimization of dyeing process for wool fabric with dyes extracted from both the sources was done using Box-Behnken design. The optimized conditions for application of Acalypha wilkesiana dye on wool fabric was 5% dye concentration, 70 minutes dyeing time and 90°C dyeing temperature. Ficus glomerata dye gave best results on wool fabric with 3% dye concentration, 90 minutes dyeing time and 90°C dyeing temperature. Range of shades were obtained with three different natural (henna leaves, pomegranate rind and tea leaves) and synthetic (ferrous sulphate, alum and tannic acid) mordants and were evaluated on the basis of colour strength and antibacterial activity. One best mordant selected for Acalypha wilkesiana as well as Ficus glomerara dye was henna leaves on the basis of good colour strength as well as also obtained maximum inhibition zone while antibacterial testing against S.aureus and E.coli. The concentration of mordant and method of mordanting was also optimized and selected on the basis of colour strength and percentage reduction of S.aureus and E.coli. The 2% concentration of henna leaves as a mordant with Acalypha wilkesiana dye when applied using post mordanting method gave best colour strength as well as reduces maximum percentage of test bacterias. In case of Ficus glomerata dye, 3% concentration of henna leaves and post mordanting method gave best results. The use of mordant improved the antibacterial, UPF and colour fastness properties of the dyed fabric. The elongation of the fabric improved with dyeing and mordanting whereas loss in strength of the fabric has been observed.
Open Access
Optimization of dyeing process for wool fabric with dyes extracted from Acalypha wilkesiana leaves and Ficus glomerata bark and evaluation of functional properties
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-02) Aaditaa; Shahnaz Jahan
The present research study was planned to identify new sources of natural dyes having antibacterial properties. The objective of the study is to optimize the dyeing and mordanting conditions, assessing antibacterial activity, ultraviolet protection factor, fastness and physical properties of the dyed fabric. Dyes were extracted using Acalypha wilkesiana leaves and Ficus glomerata bark for dyeing of wool fabric. Optimization of dyeing process for wool fabric with dyes extracted from both the sources was done using Box-Behnken design. The optimized conditions for application of Acalypha wilkesiana dye on wool fabric was 5% dye concentration, 70 minutes dyeing time and 90°C dyeing temperature. Ficus glomerata dye gave best results on wool fabric with 3% dye concentration, 90 minutes dyeing time and 90°C dyeing temperature. Range of shades were obtained with three different natural (henna leaves, pomegranate rind and tea leaves) and synthetic (ferrous sulphate, alum and tannic acid) mordants and were evaluated on the basis of colour strength and antibacterial activity. One best mordant selected for Acalypha wilkesiana as well as Ficus glomerara dye was henna leaves on the basis of good colour strength as well as also obtained maximum inhibition zone while antibacterial testing against S.aureus and E.coli. The concentration of mordant and method of mordanting was also optimized and selected on the basis of colour strength and percentage reduction of S.aureus and E.coli. The 2% concentration of henna leaves as a mordant with Acalypha wilkesiana dye when applied using post mordanting method gave best colour strength as well as reduces maximum percentage of test bacterias. In case of Ficus glomerata dye, 3% concentration of henna leaves and post mordanting method gave best results. The use of mordant improved the antibacterial, UPF and colour fastness properties of the dyed fabric. The elongation of the fabric improved with dyeing and mordanting whereas loss in strength of the fabric has been observed.

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