Documentation of Naqquashi Nirmal Arts of Telangana and textile product development through hand painting
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Date
2021-01
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G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
Telangana state is considered as home for many of the handicrafts and handloom wonders of Indian textiles. The present study was a descriptive, exploratory and product development research devised to produce different hand painted textiles using Nirmal art designs. The objectives were to document the traditional paintings of the Nirmal arts, their evolution and developmental aspects, to carry out the design development process to develop a range of textile products, to assess the consumer and market acceptance of the developed products. The primarily available sources for documentation were Nirmal artists. Inferential approach was used to explore the Nirmal art in different contexts. The artefacts made under the umbrella of Nirmal arts included toys, paintings and furniture. Detailed research on the survival journey of Nirmal painting from tradition to innovation along the historic timeline was presented. The present study focused on the painting sector of Nirmal arts. The base used was derived from wood of Ponniki tree (Givotia rottleriformis). The colours used were natural pigments derived from herbs, vegetables, fruits and mineral deposits. The distinguishing feature of the Nirmal art was the Naqquashi work. It refers to the tracing process used for design. It was done with the help of perforated muslin fabric and chalk powder. The traced design was then painted with the tempera technique using pigment colours. The choice of the pigment was based on the season along with type, nature and source of the pigment. The themes used were drawn from ancient literary and folk traditions. The products made included portraits, wall panels, screen partitions, etc. Ten primary and ancillary motifs were selected from the collected Nirmal traditional paintings for adaptation process. The motifs were digitized by using CorelDraw Graphics Suite 2019 and Adobe Photoshop 7.0. Design arrangements were made using selected primary and ancillary motif combinations for each of the three products. Selected design arrangements were used for product development. Nine products were developed that included three of each silk sarees, silk stoles and cotton wall decorations using hand painting technique with natural pigments. These were evaluated by panel of subject experts, prospective consumers, fashion designers, fashion business experts and Nirmal artists. The respondents highly appreciated the developed hand painted products. It can be inferred that the saree 1 created by using the dancing couple and ambari was highly preferred by the subject experts, consumers and the retailers. The stole (Matsya Kanya and the cash bag) was given the first rank by subject experts, consumers. Wall decoration (Apsara on the veena with the floral twines) was given first rank by consumers and retailers in terms of different parameters like aesthetic appearance, the base fabric used and the design arrangements. There exists an ample scope for design, product development and commercialization prospects for the Nirmal arts in textiles.