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Open Access
Extraction and characterization of oak tussar sericin and process optimization for finishing of cotton fabric
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2019-12) Arya, Mamta; Goel, Alka
The growing ecological consciousness demands for better waste management practices. Thus in the present study an attempt was made to extract sericin, a waste from silk industry .It the present study that sericin was successfully extracted from the degummed liquor of oak tussar silk cocoon. Sericin yield percent was 8.3 at optimum liquor ethanol ratio i.e. 3:1 and incubation time 6 hours. Further FTIR, molecular weight, nitrogen percent, protein content, solubility and amino acid profiling was done and it was found that extracted sericin has amide I, amide II and amide III peaks which confirmed the presence of C=O (1500-1600cm-1) and N-H groups (1400 cm-1). Molecular weight of oak tussar sericin ranged from 15kda to 250kda and nitrogen percent was 2.5%. Various amino acids were found namely Serine, Aspargine, Proline, Threonine, Cystine, Glycine, Alanine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Tryptophan, Glutamic acid and Aspartic acid whereas serine percentage was highest (22%) among all the amino acids. Cotton fabric was finished with extracted oak tussar sericin. Box-Behnken Design of Response Surface Methodology was used for optimization of finishing variables. After the analysis of linear, interactive and quadratic model terms the optimized recipe for finishing was consisted of 51gpl sericin concentration, 2% citric acid, 60˚C temperature, 60 minutes time and 1:20 M L Ratio. Finished fabric was then tested for physical, comfort and functional properties. It was found that durability of finish was good. Breaking strength of finished fabric was 21 kgs in warp direction and 17.8 kg in weft direction. Elongation of finished fabric was 23% in warp and 23.8 % in weft direction. Thickness (from 0.23mm to0.25mm), fabric weight (from 98 g/m2 to 101 g/m2) and bending length (from 1.4 cm to 1.6 cm) of finished fabric were increased. Crease recovery angle of finished fabric was increased significantly from 78˚ to 102˚ in warp and 84˚ to 112˚ in weft direction which inferred that creasing of finished fabric was decreased. Thermal resistance of fabric was improved as clo value of finished fabric (0.21clo) was more than the control fabric (0.04). Air permeability and wicking of finished fabric was decreased whereas water absorption of finished fabric was improved. Finished fabric exhibited improved antimicrobial property with different concentration (35gpl, 50gpl and 65gpl) of sericin. Highest zone of inhibition i.e. 6mm against E.coli and 7mm against S. aureus was observed with the highest concentration of sericin. Better UPF property was also observed in the finished fabric as UPF value was increased from 8.6 to 15.8. Further dyeing of finished fabric was done with synthetic direct dye and Butea monosperma natural dye. In case of direct dyes it was found that when dyeing was done on the sericin finish, fabric colour strength was slightly decreased whereas colour strength was increased when dyeing was done in the fabric finished with sericin and dyed with Butea monosperma. Overall fastness of both the dyes was improved with the finish application. The cost of sericin finished fabric was found Rs 650 per meter. The extracted sericin can be potentially used as biopolymer in textile dyeing industry. The developed finished fabric can be utilized in apparel sector and in medical textiles as bed linen, surgical gowns, uniforms, wipes etc.
Open Access
Existing profile of textile printing units of Pilkhuwa and development of screen printed furnishing articles inspired from Chikankari motifs
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2019-07) Upadhayay, Hema; Goel, Alka
The role and importance of small-scale industries are very significant towards employment generation. Dyeing and printing of fabrics have always been a part of the small scale industry. Pilkhuwa, a small town in Hapur (U.P) is also carrying its legacy of printed textiles since long back which is famous for furnishing items, especially bed sheets. In the present research work analysis of current status, changing scenario, ecological aspects and its marketing profile of dyeing & printing units of Pilkhuwa was done. It was found from survey results that small scale handloom industry of Pilkhuwa is need to be reviewed in terms of printing recipe, product range and existing design to fit in current pursuits of consumer preference and trends. The physiochemical analysis of effluent samples collected from dyeing and printing units revealed that the pH of washing effluent is slightly acidic (3.80) whereas effluent sample generated from indigo sol dye and scouring & bleaching found alkaline pH i.e. 9.7 & 10.41 respectively. BOD and COD were found higher whereas TDS and nitrate were found within permissible limit. All the heavy metals were in permissible limit except Cu which was found beyond permissible limit both in the effluent as well as in the printed fabric of aniline black dye. Results of the Eco testing of different printed samples, revealed that all the tested parameters were found within the permissible limits as per Oeko-Tex except for the amount of Pb which is slight high and Cu was found very high from the prescribed permissible limits specially in aniline printed sample. Owing to the results of ecological and physiochemical testing printing recipe for aniline black was optimized by using BBD (Box and Bachken) model. Optimization was done by minimizing the CuSO4 concentration and using FeSO4 as a substitute. It was found that using CuSO4 in the lower concentration a reduction of 79.33% and 83.95 % of Cu was observed in effluent and fabric respectively whereas 81.62% reduction of lead was observed in the printed fabric. Using FeSO4 as a substitute resulted in 82.53% reduction in lead content whereas the amount of Fe reported in the fabric and effluent was 144 mg/kg and 0.58 mg/kg respectively. To widen the existing product range and to impart novel look to the existing prints of Pilkhuwa fine Chikankari embroidered prints were tried to infuse through screen printing. A range of chikankari inspired screen printed home furnishing articles (curtains, dining, sofa cover set and diwan set) were developed under the research work. The developed articles were evaluated by the panel of experts and marketing personnel. As per views of experts and market personnel the developed printed articles were found suitable and believed to provide product diversification in the existing market. 55% experts and 60% of the marketing personnale opinioned that the developed articles were appropriate in cost, whereas 32.77% experts and 17.77% of the marketing personnale opinioned that the developed articles are low in cost and deserve better marketing cost. Around 60% of the experts and market personnale were willing to give a profit percentage up to 50% for the developed printed articles, whereas for few articles specially diwan sets, a very few market personnel and experts were ready to give profit share up to 80-100%. This need based study will help in enhancing the range of designing and productivity along with providing a safe alternative for printing recipe in terms of lower metal loads and hence may boost road map for development of quality products.
Open Access
Optimization of dyeing conditions for wool and silk fabrics using dyes extracted from Rumex nepalensis and Girardinia diversifolia roots
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-04) Bhandari, Babita; Anita Rani
Colouring the textiles with dyes has been an ancient craft known to mankind around the world. Present day environmental conditions compel human beings to remain covered with textiles processed through green technology for protection against effects of climate change. Hence natural dyes’ use in textile colouration sector has increased. Exploiting natural sources of dyes may create undesirable burden on environment. So in this study, weed plants had been explored for their dyeability. Weeds grow faster and absorb nutrients more efficiently and thus limiting their availability to crop plants. In this study, two sources i.e. Rumex nepalensis and Girardinia diversifolia which are abundantly available as weeds in hilly regions of Uttarakhand were used for dyeing of silk and wool fabrics. Optimization of dyeing conditions and effect of mordants on colour strength and fastness properties were assessed. Box-Behnken Design of Response Surface Methodology was used for optimization of dyeing variables for application of both dyes on silk and wool fabrics. The optimized dyeing variables obtained for application of R. nepalensis on silk fabric were 1.12% w/v dye concentration, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 81.599 minutes dyeing time whereas in case of wool optimized dyeing variables were 0.992 % w/v dye concentration, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 76.515 minutes dyeing time. In case of G. diversifolia,2.91% w/v dye, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 90 minutes dyeing time was found optimum for dyeing of silk fabric and dye concentration of 2.62 % w/v, dyeing temperature of 90ºC and dyeing time of 30 minutes were found to be optimum for dyeing of wool fabric. Mordanting method and concentrations of selected natural (amla, pomegranate peel and harad) as well as synthetic mordants (alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate) were optimized on the basis of colour strength and wash fastness. The colourfastness properties of dyed silk and wool fabric samples improved after mordanting with both types of mordants in case of two dyes used in the study. Application of both dyes and mordants on silk and wool fabrics improved the UPF and antimicrobial properties when compared with their control samples. Tensile strength and elongation of mordanted dyed fabrics was significantly affected from undyed fabrics but not from dyed fabrics. Residues of few heavy metals were found on the dyed fabrics but those were present within permissible limit. Since no chemicals are used at any stage of dyeing, this study can be useful for small scale dyers who have no access to effluent treatment facility and generated wastewater can be safely discharged into the environment.
Open Access
Utilization of oak tasar silk waste through blending with acrylic fibers for development of yarns and woven fabrics
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-03) Lakhchaura, Pallavi; Gahlot, Manisha
The present study was planned to see the possibility of blending of oak tasar silk waste and acrylic blended fibres to prepare yarns and woven fabrics. Blending and spinning of fibres were done on cotton spinning system. Five blend ratios (100:0, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 0:100 Oak tasar waste: Acrylic) were prepared at NITRA, Ghaziabad on ring spinning. Their physical properties and imperfection were evaluated. Ten fabric samples were woven from developed yarns on handloom out of which four were blended fabrics with plain weave and four with twill weave. Two were union fabrics each with plain and twill weave in which 100 % acrylic yarn was used as warp and 100 % oak tasar silk yarn was used as weft. The physical (cover factor, cloth cover, fabric weight, fabric thickness, crease recovery angle, bending length, flexural rigidity, drape coefficient, abrasion resistance, pilling, tensile strength, elongation at break and dimension change) and comfort (thermal insulation value, clo, Q-max, air permeability, water vapour transport rate, water absorption, vertical wicking and horizontal wicking) properties were assessed and statistically analyzed using post hoc tukey test and paired t- test. The tenacity values of oak tasar silk and acrylic fibre were comparable. Acrylic fibres were finer as compared to oak tasar fibres. Elongation percent of acrylic fibre was higher as compared to oak tasar fibre. Yarn count of the developed yarns was ranged from medium to fine i.e. 22 Ne to 28 Ne. The physical properties, unevenness and imperfection of blended yarn were improved with the addition of acrylic fibres with oak tasar silk in the blend. Light weight plain weave and twill weave fabrics of oak tasar silk and acrylic blended yarns were developed among them the twill weave fabrics had higher cloth cover, fabric weight and thickness as compared to plain weave fabrics. Most of the physical properties of fabrics were improved with the addition of acrylic fibre in the blend for both plain and twill weaves. Comfort properties like Q-max, air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal insulation and clo value were found to be increased with increasing acrylic content in the fabric. Most of the comfort properties of different blended and union fabrics were more or less close to each other for both plain and twill weaves. These fabrics may be used for light winter wear clothing and apparels as they were light in weight with clo value comparable to sweater.
Open Access
Documentation of selected Indian Textile Museums, development of finishes for textile conservation & designing of display showcases
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-08) Singh, Pooja; Goel, Alka
Under present research status of textile artifacts and prevailing conservation practices in the selected Indian textile museums were documented, finish suitable for conservation of textiles was developed and designs of showcases for impressive display of textiles in museums were created. Twenty eight Indian textile museums were selected for survey. The details of artifacts collection and conservation practices followed by the museums to protect the textile antiquities from deterioration were noted. Survey results revealed that edible sources such as black pepper and clove were used to conserve the textiles in the museums. So, an economical antimicrobial finish extracted from plant source was developed, it will also help in saving edible sources. To develop the antimicrobial finish efficacy of the methanolic extracts of seven plants were tested against Gram Positive, Gram Negative and fungus by Agar Well Diffusion Method for bacteria and Food Poison Method for fungus. Methanolic extract of Khinna (Falconeria insignis) was selected for casement fabric application on the basis of maximum zone of inhibition exhibited against the test microbes. Conditions for applying the plant extract on the fabric were optimized on the basis of the bacterial resistance efficacy of the variables tested by Box-Behnken Design software. Both bacteria and fungus showed highest bacterial and fungal resistance for nine percent of plant extract whereas, four percent concentration of citric acid resulted in lowest bacterial zone of inhibition was observed at 30 minutes of treatment time. The treated fabrics were dried and were tested for physical properties. It was concluded that methanolic extract of Falconeria insignis leaves are safe and economical to provide antimicrobial protection on casement fabric, which may be used as base fabric for placement of artifacts in the museums. Designing of display boards for effective showcasing of the product as well as their conservation process to safeguard the textiles. In order to design display showcases the artefacts displayed in the museums were categorized in twelve categories Total sixty designs of showcases were prepared using Photoshop software along with their dimensions, recommended material for construction of particular showcase and estimated cost was also calculated. The prepared designs of showcases were got evaluated by the conservators and curators of five museums surveyed.
Open Access
Extraction, processing and evaluation of physico-chemical properties of Grewia asiatica (Phalsa) fibers and construction of woven and non-woven fabric
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-08) Upreti, Monika; Shahnaz Jahan
The world is witnessing undesirable phenomenon in terms of changing global temperature, increasing population and shrinking natural resources. Textile being, one of the basic needs of human being is not untouched with the consequences of these changes. The need and awareness of using eco-friendly textiles have increased rapidly amongst the masses. Keeping all these points in mind, present research was conducted to screen various plants for extraction of bast fibers and selection of fiber giving plant based on the physical properties of fibers, to process the selected fiber and testing of physico-chemical properties of unprocessed and processed fibers, to prepare yarn from processed fiber and testing of its properties and to prepare woven and non-woven fabrics and assessment of their properties. A trail for extraction of fiber was conducted on three different plant species i.e. Grewia asiatica, Hibiscus syriacus and Malvaviscus penduliflorus by traditional water retting method. On the basis of best physical properties and high fiber yield, Grewia asiatica fiber was selected for the study. To improve the physical properties of Grewia asiatica fibers, best scouring method and softening method was selected. The treatment time and concentration of chemical were optimized for both scouring and softening process. Grewia asiatica fibers was scoured with optimum scouring conditions (20g/l NaOH and 5g/l ammonium oxalate at 100°C temperature for 30 minutes) and after that it was softened with optimum (0.5%) concentration of cationic softener at room temperature for 30 minutes. Physical and chemical properties and SEM analysis of the unprocessed and processed fibers was done. Results indicated that due to the removal of non-cellulosic substances from the surface of the fiber, processed fibers exhibited better physical and chemical properties. The SEM image of processed fibers also showed smooth and clear surface than unprocessed fiber. The processed Grewia asiatica fibers were cut, opened and carded for preparation of yarn. Yarn was prepared by using Bhageshwari Charkha. Cotton machine made yarn was procured from local market. The physical properties of both yarns were tested. Cotton yarn exhibited better strength, evenness and fineness whereas hand spun Grewia asiatica yarn was coarser and had hairiness. Therefore, cotton yarn selected as warp and Grewia asiatica yarn as weft for construction of woven union fabric. Union fabric was prepared on handloom by using herringbone weave and their properties were tested. It was found that fabric was heavy in weight, and exhibited good strength and elongation. The fabric had good abrasion resistance property and fair drapability. Therefore, the prepared woven fabric can be recommended for preparation of handicraft items as well as fashion fabric. Non-woven fabric was also prepared from processed Grewia asiatica fibers by needle punching method. The properties of non-woven fabric were tested and it was found that fabric was thick, light-weighted, had good thermal insulation property and good moisture regain property. Thus, the prepared non-woven fabrics can be used in agro-textiles for mulching, biocomposites, floor covering, carpets, handicrafts items and numerous home furnishing materials.
Open Access
Exploration of aipan designs for development of handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-08) Arya, Anuradha; Gahlot, Manisha
India is a land of rich cultural heritage, which is enriched by myriad forms of folk arts as well. Folk art has always been great source of inspiration for the designers. Floor decoration is one of the important popular forms of art of many cultures in India. This is found in every part of India with different names like Alpana, Rangoli, kolam and Aipan also. Aipan is most popular floor art of Kumaun region of Uttarakhand which has great religious significance. Traditionally, it is drawn with geru and biwsar at places of worship, houses and main entry doors of house during particular religious ceremonies or auspicious occasions. The designs and motifs of Aipan are traditional in nature and possess geometrical figures, floral designs, symbolic motifs and figures of gods and goddesses. However, this art form has been on the decline with time but due to the inclination of people towards local arts, it has been thriving in product diversification. In the present study, an attempt was made toward the diversification of Aipan designs by using them for handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving technique which provided a new avenue to this art form, to popularize it commercially in a well-established market. In the present study, the data was collected on the status of handloom weaving in Uttarakhand to identify the need of design development and product diversification. The motifs and designs of Aipan were adapted in three categories (buta, buti and border) for the designing of saree. The adapted designs were combined and got evaluated in five categories for designing of saree namely combination of buta, buti and border, single design, combination of buta and buti, combination of border and buti and combination of border and buta. The colour board with theme “Colours of Uttarakhand” was developed as a source of inspiration for selection of colour schemes which included colours of flora, fauna and arts and craft of the state. The selected six combinations were used for the development of thirty-six design arrangements of sarees using the preplanned colour scheme taken from colour board. Total six design arrangement were selected and used for the weaving of saree with two techniques such as amru/tanchhoi and extra weft figuring with cut float method. The digital library was also developed using NedGraphics for the preparation of graph and for the storage of designs for future use. The developed sarees were assessed on different parameters by experts, consumers (females) and retailers. The consumers (Homemakers and working women) and retailers of six cities from two districts (Nainital and Udham Singh Nagar) were taken for the assessment of sarees. Catalogue of saree was also prepared for the promotion of developed saree. Sarees were also given brand name along with the logo. The result of the study showed that the woollen handloom products play prominent role in Uttarakhand handloom sector. Traditional woollen handloom products were produced in high hill and mid hill region whereas cotton products were mainly found to be developed in Tarai region. In Uttarakhand, the production of silk handloom product was found very less therefore the need of product diversification was analysed and silk saree was developed using adapted Aipan designs on handloom with jacquard weaving. The market cost of saree was calculated by straight line method. Finally, the developed sarees were assessed for the acceptance. The experts highly appreciated saree 1 and 5 on different parameters such as aesthetic appearance, innovation, craftsmanship, and performance. They also found the cost of all sarees medium. The majority of experts also appreciated the attempt made in the present study. In case of consumers, the both (homemakers and working women) preferred saree 1 and 5 more as compared to others. It was also found that the preference of saree was depended upon the age and the income groups of consumers. Both the consumers found the cost of sarees as the medium. The retailers also appreciated the attempt made in the study and preferred saree 1 and 5 more. The retailers found the cost of all sarees as high and suggested to reduce the cost of saree for commercialization. The developed sarees can be commercialized in Uttarakhand region. It would provide the product diversification in Aipan as well as in handloom sector also and would definitely create awareness about the folk art among young generation.
Open Access
Processing of Dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata W.) fibres and development of nonwoven and woven structures for technical end uses
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Negi, Monika; Anita, Rani
Open Access
Application of UV protective finish on cotton fabric using plant extracts of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Pargai, Deepti; Shahnaz Jahan
UV radiation from the sun is causing various harmful effects on skin of human beings. Fabric have potential to protect against these harmful UV rays, however not all fabric can provide protection thus this study was aimed at developing UV protective finish for Khadi cotton fabric. Plant materials like leaves of Urtica dioica and Vitis vinifera as well as peels of Citrus limetta were used for developing UV protective finish. These plant extracts was applied on the cotton fabric using different methods of application i.e. exhaust method, microwave method and microencapsulation method. Finishing conditions for application of each selected plant extract were optimized using box and behnken design under design expert software version 10. Different optimized finishing condition was observed for each of the method of application. In case of exhaustion method 10.59%, 9.651% and 9.032% concentration of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extracts was selected respectively as optimum concentration. Optimum exhaustion temperature was found 40oC for application of Urtica dioica and Citrus limetta while 40.939o C for Vitis vinifera. Thirty minutes of exhaustion time was found optimum in case of application of Urtica dioica extract while 60 minutes for application of Citrus limetta as well as for Vitis vinifera extract was found to be optimum. In case of microwave method, optimum concentration was selected as 11%, 8.413%, 9.380% concentration of the Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. Optimum power of microwave was found to be 320.154 watt, 317.889 watt and 312.901 watt for Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. Treatment time i.e. 5.511 minutes, 6.758 minutes and 7 minutes was found optimum for Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. In case of microencapsulation method, Optimum concentration of microcapsules was observed as 4.117%, 5.000%, 3.574% for Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. Concentration of binder as 3%, 2.761%, and 2.942 % was observed to be optimum for application of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera microcapsules respectively. Optimum curing temperature for application of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract was found was 113.254o C, 100o C and 120.664o C respectively. It can be concluded that very good to excellent UV protection properties can be incorporated in khadi cotton fabric by using Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract. Microencapsulation method was observed to be best with regard of UPF, tensile strength, lightness value as well as in providing maximum durability. Addition of UV protection property will not only provide protection against UV rays but also help to add value in khadi fabric which would increases the market for khadi cotton fabric.

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