Exploration of aipan designs for development of handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving
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Date
2017-08
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G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
India is a land of rich cultural heritage, which is enriched by myriad forms of folk arts as well. Folk art has always been great source of inspiration for the designers. Floor decoration is one of the important popular forms of art of many cultures in India. This is found in every part of India with different names like Alpana, Rangoli, kolam and Aipan also. Aipan is most popular floor art of Kumaun region of Uttarakhand which has great religious significance. Traditionally, it is drawn with geru and biwsar at places of worship, houses and main entry doors of house during particular religious ceremonies or auspicious occasions. The designs and motifs of Aipan are traditional in nature and possess geometrical figures, floral designs, symbolic motifs and figures of gods and goddesses. However, this art form has been on the decline with time but due to the inclination of people towards local arts, it has been thriving in product diversification. In the present study, an attempt was made toward the diversification of Aipan designs by using them for handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving technique which provided a new avenue to this art form, to popularize it commercially in a well-established market. In the present study, the data was collected on the status of handloom weaving in Uttarakhand to identify the need of design development and product diversification. The motifs and designs of Aipan were adapted in three categories (buta, buti and border) for the designing of saree. The adapted designs were combined and got evaluated in five categories for designing of saree namely combination of buta, buti and border, single design, combination of buta and buti, combination of border and buti and combination of border and buta. The colour board with theme “Colours of Uttarakhand” was developed as a source of inspiration for selection of colour schemes which included colours of flora, fauna and arts and craft of the state. The selected six combinations were used for the development of thirty-six design arrangements of sarees using the preplanned colour scheme taken from colour board. Total six design arrangement were selected and used for the weaving of saree with two techniques such as amru/tanchhoi and extra weft figuring with cut float method. The digital library was also developed using NedGraphics for the preparation of graph and for the storage of designs for future use. The developed sarees were assessed on different parameters by experts, consumers (females) and retailers. The consumers (Homemakers and working women) and retailers of six cities from two districts (Nainital and Udham Singh Nagar) were taken for the assessment of sarees. Catalogue of saree was also prepared for the promotion of developed saree. Sarees were also given brand name along with the logo. The result of the study showed that the woollen handloom products play prominent role in Uttarakhand handloom sector. Traditional woollen handloom products were produced in high hill and mid hill region whereas cotton products were mainly found to be developed in Tarai region. In Uttarakhand, the production of silk handloom product was found very less therefore the need of product diversification was analysed and silk saree was developed using adapted Aipan designs on handloom with jacquard weaving. The market cost of saree was calculated by straight line method. Finally, the developed sarees were assessed for the acceptance. The experts highly appreciated saree 1 and 5 on different parameters such as aesthetic appearance, innovation, craftsmanship, and performance. They also found the cost of all sarees medium. The majority of experts also appreciated the attempt made in the present study. In case of consumers, the both (homemakers and working women) preferred saree 1 and 5 more as compared to others. It was also found that the preference of saree was depended upon the age and the income groups of consumers. Both the consumers found the cost of sarees as the medium. The retailers also appreciated the attempt made in the study and preferred saree 1 and 5 more. The retailers found the cost of all sarees as high and suggested to reduce the cost of saree for commercialization. The developed sarees can be commercialized in Uttarakhand region. It would provide the product diversification in Aipan as well as in handloom sector also and would definitely create awareness about the folk art among young generation.
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