Extraction and characterization of oak tussar sericin and process optimization for finishing of cotton fabric
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Date
2019-12
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G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
The growing ecological consciousness demands for better waste management practices. Thus in the present study an attempt was made to extract sericin, a waste from silk industry .It the present study that sericin was successfully extracted from the degummed liquor of oak tussar silk cocoon. Sericin yield percent was 8.3 at optimum liquor ethanol ratio i.e. 3:1 and incubation time 6 hours. Further FTIR, molecular weight, nitrogen percent, protein content, solubility and amino acid profiling was done and it was found that extracted sericin has amide I, amide II and amide III peaks which confirmed the presence of C=O (1500-1600cm-1) and N-H groups (1400 cm-1). Molecular weight of oak tussar sericin ranged from 15kda to 250kda and nitrogen percent was 2.5%. Various amino acids were found namely Serine, Aspargine, Proline, Threonine, Cystine, Glycine, Alanine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Tryptophan, Glutamic acid and Aspartic acid whereas serine percentage was highest (22%) among all the amino acids. Cotton fabric was finished with extracted oak tussar sericin. Box-Behnken Design of Response Surface Methodology was used for optimization of finishing variables. After the analysis of linear, interactive and quadratic model terms the optimized recipe for finishing was consisted of 51gpl sericin concentration, 2% citric acid, 60˚C temperature, 60 minutes time and 1:20 M L Ratio. Finished fabric was then tested for physical, comfort and functional properties. It was found that durability of finish was good. Breaking strength of finished fabric was 21 kgs in warp direction and 17.8 kg in weft direction. Elongation of finished fabric was 23% in warp and 23.8 % in weft direction. Thickness (from 0.23mm to0.25mm), fabric weight (from 98 g/m2 to 101 g/m2) and bending length (from 1.4 cm to 1.6 cm) of finished fabric were increased. Crease recovery angle of finished fabric was increased significantly from 78˚ to 102˚ in warp and 84˚ to 112˚ in weft direction which inferred that creasing of finished fabric was decreased. Thermal resistance of fabric was improved as clo value of finished fabric (0.21clo) was more than the control fabric (0.04). Air permeability and wicking of finished fabric was decreased whereas water absorption of finished fabric was improved. Finished fabric exhibited improved antimicrobial property with different concentration (35gpl, 50gpl and 65gpl) of sericin. Highest zone of inhibition i.e. 6mm against E.coli and 7mm against S. aureus was observed with the highest concentration of sericin. Better UPF property was also observed in the finished fabric as UPF value was increased from 8.6 to 15.8. Further dyeing of finished fabric was done with synthetic direct dye and Butea monosperma natural dye. In case of direct dyes it was found that when dyeing was done on the sericin finish, fabric colour strength was slightly decreased whereas colour strength was increased when dyeing was done in the fabric finished with sericin and dyed with Butea monosperma. Overall fastness of both the dyes was improved with the finish application. The cost of sericin finished fabric was found Rs 650 per meter. The extracted sericin can be potentially used as biopolymer in textile dyeing industry. The developed finished fabric can be utilized in apparel sector and in medical textiles as bed linen, surgical gowns, uniforms, wipes etc.
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