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Open Access
Designing and construction of suitable clothing for elderly women of 65-85 years of age
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-07) Tyagi, Isha; Goel, Alka
As a person ages, usually agility decreases. Proper clothing for this time in life is vitally important to one's overall well-being and happiness. Attractive clothing that fits well is important for senior citizens, but they also desire clothing that improves functional independence, offers ease in dressing and undressing, provides physical & thermal comfort and contributes to ease in performing routine duties. Inspite of increasing number of elderly women in population, clothing designed especially for this age group is unavailable in market. Therefore, present research was carried out to know the needs and preferences of elderly women of 65-85 years of age in Udham Singh Nagar (Uttarakhand) and to design and construct suitable clothing for them accordingly. Elderly females preferred semi fitted, tailor made garments with cool colours, semi deep necklines and three quarter sleeves. Maximum females preferred buttons as fasteners and embroidery as trim. Among fabric properties, absorbency and light weight were preferred by maximum respondents. On the basis of results obtained from survey, 10 design sketches of Salwar kurta and gowns (5 each) were made. These sketches were then evaluated by a panel of judges comprising of Staff members and post graduate students of Home Science College, G.B.P.U.A. & T. Total 4 designs i.e. 2 designs of salwar kurta and 2 designs of gown which got maximum scores were selected for construction. The fitting of constructed dresses were tried and features like ease in wearing, ease in manipulating fasteners, safety, comfortability, appropriateness of garment to age and over all appearance were also evaluated by the respondents. The present study thus indicates that elderly women also want to fulfill their needs and desires related to clothing and they may be uncomfortable wearing the clothes they have, especially if those clothes are out of date, are in colours or designs that are mismatched or simply no longer fit properly. Elderly women form an important part of society, therefore their needs and desires related to clothing should not be neglected. Clothes which promote independent dressing and boost the psychological spirit of elderly females have been tried to prepare under the current research work.
Open Access
Design development for Pichhora through adaptation of Kumauni Aipan designs of Uttarakhand
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-07) Arya, Anuradha; Anita Rani
In India fabrics are enriched with a multitude of design consisting of figures, animals, plants, Gods, etc. reflecting the vitality of Indian people, their environment, social, cultural and political influences affecting the lives. In the present study, the folk art of Uttarakhand state, Aipan, was exploited for the development of the designs and their application on the customary apparel article of the state i.e., Pichhora of Kumaun region. The study was conducted in five districts namely; Udham Singh Nagar, Nainital, Almora, Pithoragrah and Champawat of Kumaun region of Uttarakhand state. The information was collected from housewives regarding prevalent designs of Pichhora and from shopkeepers & manufacturers on production and marketing practices adopted for Pichhoras to develop designs for Pichhoras through adaptation of Aipan designs and to prepare Pichhoras with selected designs using screen printing technique. Finally, the consumer acceptability of prepared Pichhoras was assessed. The results of study showed that the Pichhoras were purchased and worn by housewives on marriages and religious ceremonies by married women. Only warm colours were used owing to their religious significance and stylized and ethnic motifs were more prevalent. Majority of housewives preferred Pichhora embellished with kiran or gota on the edges and with sequins, beads and mirrors in body. In the market, Pichhoras cotton plain and chikan cotton were available. The production of the Pichhoras was done on the basis of market demand and order. Direct and rapid fast dyes were used by manufacturers for dyeing and printing, respectively. The cost of Pichhora was calculated by taking into account the raw material cost, labour cost and profit margin. The ethnic (chaukies) and stylized motifs (creepers) of Aipan were adapted for developing designs in two simplification and exaggeration ways and were got evaluated by experts of College of Home Science, G. B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar. The selected design border, ooti and centre were arranged in different arrangements and these arrangements were evaluated again by the panel of experts. Finally Pichhoras were printed with two selected arrangements. These Pichhoras were highly appreciated and accepted by the consumers.
Open Access
Clothing practices prevalent among college going students
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-07) Husain, Rabia; Anita Rani
The present study was conducted among male and female students of 17–19 years (under-graduate) and 21- 24 years (post-graduate) in G.B.P.U A & T, Pantnagar to study their existing clothing practices and impact of motivating factors and socializing agents on their clothing practices. It was found that maximum students possessed upper and lower garments and accessories in the range of one to five; maximum male students preferred branded where as maximum females students preferred non- branded garments and accessories. Majority of the students preferred cotton made upper and lower garments. Male students of both age groups and female students of 21-24 years preferred company of friends and female students of 17 -19 years preferred company of parents at the time of shopping and maximum students purchased as and when need arises. Also, maximum students preferred readymade accessories, tailor-made formal garments but male students preferred ready made casual clothes and female students preferred home made casual garments. Male students preferred purchasing from both places i.e., place of residence and study and female students preferred purchasing from place of residence. Urban residents preferred purchasing from city market and rural residents preferred purchasing from near by city or town. Maximum students preferred purchasing newly arrived merchandise from mix show rooms. While purchasing, male students of 17 -19 years preferred comfort and color styles where as males students of 21-24 years considered cost and collar style but the female students considered the fashion, style the most along with the workmanship. Cool colours were preferred most by all students. Television was source of information for garment characteristics; cash payment mode and labels were checked for fiber content and washing instruction and discussion with parents and friends prior to purchasing were preferred practices of the students. Maximum students used detergents powder and hand wash method for washing garments. They washed under garments daily, casual wear after 2-3 days and formal wear on weekly basis and dried their clothes on clothes line and in hangers. Television among mass media; fashion, social and religious events; siblings, peer group and affiliation to the group and availability of merchandise in the market were the motivating factors that affected clothing practices of the students. Socializing agents namely, family, peer group and society had varied impact on under graduate and post graduate male and female students on their clothing practices.
Open Access
Extraction, processing and utilization of Rambans (Agave Spp.) and malu (Bauhinia vahlii) fibers for industrial uses
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-08) Kholiya, Ruchi; Goel, Alka
Plant fiber can be termed as god’s one of the most precious gift to mankind. Today fiber yielding plants are regarded as most important crop after cereals. In fact, plant fibers are the raw material for many industries sustaining the economy of our nation. Unconventional fibrous plants are one of the largely neglected resources of the Uttarakhand. There was no available record regarding the total number of NGOs working on unconventional fibers in Uttarakhand therefore in order to assess the work being carried out on unconventional fibers in Uttarakhand, all the Non Government Organizations (NGOs) working on unconventional fibers were visited and information was collected by the researcher. It was found that most of the NGOs used rambans fibers followed by wool fibers. During the course of study it was noticed that majority of NGOs faced several problems regarding availability of raw materials, extraction of fibers, cost of raw material, fiber processing, problems during production of articles, lack of workers, lack of infrastructure, marketing of products and unavailability of proper extraction and processing tools. So to overcome these problems, three commonly available species of Agave in Uttarakhand (Agave cantala, Agave sisalana and Agave americana) and a soft fiber from the bark of the plant i.e. malu (Bauhinia vahlii) were extracted from eleven different retting methods (decortications or scraping, water retting, fungal retting, acid and alkali retting with different concentrations and durations). A series of experiments were conducted to soften the rambans fibers and to optimize the procedure for extraction and application of natural dye obtained from French marigold flowers on rambans fibers. After opening and carding malu-viscose rayon and rambans-viscose rayon fibers were blended thoroughly in three different ratios i.e. 75:25, 50:50 and 25:75. On the basis of satisfactory physical properties and aesthetic view, one woven sample of malu-viscose and one woven sample of rambans-viscose were prepared on Kumaoni handloom. These blended fabrics were than evaluated for different physical properties. The traditional technologies for harvesting and fiber processing were assessed by the investigator and intervention of improved technologies was done. Results of different extraction methods revealed that in case of malu fibers, alkali retted fibers had superior properties as compared to other methods. Results of different extraction methods on physical properties of three species of Agave indicates that Agave cantala fibers posses superior properties followed by Agave sisalana species. While Agave americana species posses inferior properties as compared to other two species. Out of these fibers, decorticated sisal (Agave sisalana) fibers were purposively taken for the present study due to easy availability. After visual evaluation of softened rambans fibers it was observed that fibers treated with 100% NaOH concentration were softer as compared to the rambans fibers obtained from other treatments. The optimum dyeing condition of rambans fibers were-aqueous extraction medium, 2 g concentration of dye, 75 minutes extraction time and 60 minutes of dyeing time. In case of mordants the selected concentrations were 3 g, 2 g, 0.05 g and 0.01 g of pomegranate rind, tea leaves, stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate respectively. After opening and carding malu-viscose rayon and rambans-viscose rayon fibers were blended thoroughly in three different ratios i.e. 75:25, 50:50 and 25:75. Single ply yarns of these blends were prepared on Bageshwari Charkha and evaluated for different physical properties. Results of yarn testing indicated that as the content of viscose rayon increases, breaking strength, tenacity, elongation per cent and yarn evenness of the respective blends also increases. Whereas yarn count reduced as the viscose content was increased in blends. Results of fabric testing revealed that fabric count, weight per unit area, thickness, abrasion loss, crease recovery angle and elongation at break were maximum in malu-viscose blended fabric, while bending length, flexural rigidity, overall flexural rigidity, and pilling resistance was maximum in case of rambans-viscose blended fabric as they were stiffer than malu-viscose blended fabric. Beside these, rambans-viscose blended fabric also showed higher drape coefficient, thermal conductivity, and breaking strength. A rambans (sisal) fabric reinforced phenolic composite was prepared by compression molding method. Tensile strength and tensile modulus of the rambans phenolic composite was 24.61 MPa and 207.77 GPa respectively, while flexural strength and flexural modulus of the rambans phenolic composite was 31.1 MPa and 104.55 GPa respectively. On the basis of respondents’ requirement a leaf cutter and a decorticator machine was designed by the investigator. Results indicated that ergonomically designed leaf cutter caused minimum physiological cost of work as compared to the traditional heavy weight leaf cutter. The line diagram of the improved decorticator machine was showed to the owners of the NGOs and workers; who expressed satisfaction over the new design and are willing to develop the improved decorticator machine in near future for their use. In view of the large scale unemployment in Uttarakhand and a need for empowerment of backward and tribal areas, village industries focusing on extraction and processing of natural fibers can generate enormous employment without much input. Therefore utilization of plant fibers for employment generation in rural sector will prove to be cost-effective and ecologically sustainable.
Open Access
Application of antimicrobial finish on woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics for the development of eco friendly infant clothes
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-06) Massey, Shefali; Shahnaz Jahan
Today environment protection, consumer health and safety have become main focus issues. This is because of consumer’s growing interest in use of natural products, hence, textile industry witness an increased demand of finishes which are eco friendly. Besides this, the most utilitarian aspect of clothing is design and construction of garments that would provide physical comfort and durability to small children having soft skin vulnerable to infections. Therefore, present research work has been taken up to apply antimicrobial finish on woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics to develop eco friendly infant clothes. In the present study, qualitative and quantitative assessment of antimicrobial activity of eucalyptus oil, menthol oil, clove oil and neem oil were tested at different concentrations (10Ol to 60 Ol) against Staphylococcus aureus and Aspergillus niger on woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics. Eucalyptus oil showed maximum antibacterial and antifungal activity at 60 Ol against bacteria Staphylococcus aureus and fungi Aspergillus niger in both the tests. The antimicrobial activity of menthol oil at 60 Ol was found good and after eucalyptus oil was second best followed by clove oil. Neem oil had minimum antibacterial activity on woven organic cotton and antifungal activity of neem oil was found nil on both woven and loop pile organic cotton samples. Eucalyptus oil was selected for making the fabrics antimicrobial. Spray method was used for applying temporary antimicrobial. The finish was vanished after second and third washing treatments. The performance study of both untreated and treated woven and loop pile organic cotton samples was done on the basis of physical tests. There was non-significant effect of herbal oil finish on fabric count, cover factor and pile density of woven and loop pile samples. The results revealed that there was significant effect of oil on rest of the other physical properties. Application of oil decreased drape coefficient, abrasion loss per cent, wettability and bending length whereas dimensional stability, crease recovery angle and fabric weight was increased in both woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics. Tearing strength, tensile strength, bursting strength, air permeability and water vapour transmission was found to be decreased in treated woven organic cotton fabric while all these properties increased in loop pile organic cotton after application of herbal oil finish. In the next stage survey was done to collect information from mothers about clothing practices and requirements for infant clothes. It was found that majority of the families belonged to Middle SES, total family income ranged between Rs 5,000/- to 9,999, all the parents were educated but inspite of the education of mothers 60 per cent mothers were non-working. Majority of mothers depends on window displays, shop as per list of items from ordinary shops, shop during sales as well as buy clothes whenever required. All the mothers preferred ready-made infant garments because of wider choice of fabric, design, style, good fit on the average price range of Rs 201/- to 300. Comfort, easy care, price, fit, durability were the first five preferred selection factors for purchasing infant clothes. Cotton was the most preferred fabric for infant clothes because of its absorbency and year round comfort followed by wool, terrycot, cotswool and silk. Least preferred fabrics were nylon and terylene. Cool colours, nursery prints, soft texture were preferred by mothers for male infants while warm colours, nursery prints/ floral designs and soft texture were preferred for female. Design details such as frills and laces, front openings, half sleeves, gathers, pockets were favoured by mothers. In case of type of garments elastic at the back of panties, slips without buttons, velcro diapers, elastic pyjama, side opened skirts and front opened frocks, sweaters without zippers and buttons were preferred by infant mothers. The study reveals that buying of infant clothes significantly depends on socio-economic status of the family. Awareness of mothers significantly depends on education.
Open Access
Utilization of eco-friendly bamboo-cotton fibre blends for protective and healthcare textiles
(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-12) Sharma, Vandana; Goel, Alka
Medical textiles are one of the most rapidly expanding sectors in the technical textile market. Medical Textiles are the products and constructions used for medical and biological applications and are used primarily for first aid, clinical and hygienic purposes. An important area of meditech is protective and healthcare textiles which include doctor’s lab coat, surgical gowns, patient dress, cap, masks, etc. All the protective and healthcare textiles require special antimicrobial properties combined with the wearer’s comfort. Antimicrobial textiles are easily finding place in medical industry and mostly disposable and nonwoven antimicrobial textiles are used in medical field. Some of the treatments being used to produce antimicrobial textiles are harmful to the user as the chemicals used in the treatment of textiles tend to cause skin allergy, etc. when developed into apparel and also to our environment because the chemically treated textiles are not reusable. To address the growing concern about personal protection and environment, present study was carried out to develop reusable textiles with inherited antimicrobial and biodegradable properties which will help in reducing the amount of chemicals and trash being disposed off in the landfills. Therefore in order to enhance the antimicrobial and bio-degradable properties of protective and healthcare textiles, two eco friendly fibers i.e., cotton (cellulosic fiber) and bamboo (regenerated cellulosic fiber) were selected for the present study. Till today, cotton being the most used fiber for making protective and healthcare textiles because fabrics developed from cotton fiber combined durability with attractive wearing qualities and comfort. Cotton can withstand repeated washings and is ideal for garments that must be laundered often but it lacks anti-microbial properties. Cotton fiber is easily available in India whereas bamboo fiber is imported from China which made it slightly costlier than cotton. Thus in view of the above stated points, value addition of cotton with bamboo fibers was carried out by using blending technology in order to prepare eco friendly fabrics with inherited antimicrobial properties. Bamboo fiber owns a unique anti-bacterial bio-agent named "bamboo Kun" which combined with bamboo cellulose molecules tightly all along during the process of being produced into bamboo fiber. Bamboo fiber’s natural anti-bacterial function differs greatly from that of chemical antimicrobial treatments. The later often tend to cause skin allergy when added to apparels. Fiber properties were evaluated on the basis of end use of products. Ten ring spun yarn samples made up of cotton and bamboo in different ratios (100:0, 70:30, 50:50, 30:70 and 0:100) i.e. five different ratios of 2-ply warp and five different ratios of single ply weft yarns were prepared. Pure and blended warp and weft yarn samples were tested for estimating the quality of raw material and for controlling the quality of fabric produced. It was found that it is possible to produce good quality, strong and regular yarn with less hairiness through blending of cotton with bamboo. In order to ensure that the product being manufactured will meet the desired quality level and confirm to the laid down specifications for their intended purpose, pure and blended cotton-bamboo woven fabric samples were prepared and tested for various structural, mechanical, aesthetic and comfort properties. All the pure and blended fabrics were found suitable for preparation of different types of protective and healthcare textiles. Assessment of antimicrobial property of pure and blended woven fabrics against commonly found bacteria’s i.e. S. aureus, E. coli and fungi’s i.e. A. niger, T. reesei were also carried out. It was observed that as the contact hours increased, bamboo-cotton blended fabric samples showed better antibacterial and antifungal properties as compared to pure cotton fabric sample. Reduction in the number of bacterial and fungal counts was seen higher among after washed fabric samples than the before washed fabrics. Biodegradability assessment of pure and blended fabrics were also carried out which indicated that as percentage of bamboo increased in fabric samples and as the days increased, the degradation of the fabric samples also increased. Visual assessment of all fabrics was done and the article which secured highest rank for the particular fabric was prepared. Cost of one meter fabric and the articles cost on the basis of the fabric consumed, trimmings used and labour cost were also calculated. Textile customers all over the world are demanding eco-friendly textiles; hence manufacturers and exporters are becoming more aware of the fascination and commercial value of eco textiles. The only way to produce the eco textile product is to turn towards the nature. Thus the findings of the present research study concluded that pure and blended cotton and bamboo protective and healthcare textile will have great potentials to finds its own place in today’s competitive global market and can fetch good premium price in both domestic and global market as now a day’s customers are giving more importance to health and hygiene.

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