Delignification of Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) ribbons for fibre extraction and development of blended yarns and fabrics
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Date
2020-11
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G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
The best step towards nature conservation is the use of eco friendly products in our day to day life. The hills of Himalayas are endowed with indigenous flora rich in natural fibres due to favourable climatic conditions. Under the belt of mountainous region of Uttarakhand state, there are immense fibre yielding plant species growing wildly and have potential to become source of livelihood for local community of hilly areas. Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) plant, locally known as bicchu buti is one of the fibre yielding plant with lots of good properties. Therefore, present study was planned to utilize nettle fibres for the preparation of blended fabrics with cotton and bamboo. The nettle fibres were extracted through delignification method. The variables of delignification i.e., sodium chlorite concentration, acetic acid concentration, treatment time and sodium hydroxide concentration of selected delignification process were optimized using BBD of RSM. Responses taken were tensile strength and lignin content. Total 29 experiments were conducted for delignification and on the basis of maximum tensile strength and minimum lignin content delignification method was optimised for extraction of nettle fibres in bulk. Comparison between the physical properties of fibres obtained with delignification method and water retting method was done to observe the effect of delignification on properties of fibre. Processed nettle fibres were carded and then blended with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios on mini carding machine and machine spun to produce 100% cotton and 100% bamboo and blended yarns on computerized Trytex Rotor Spinning Machine. For the production of plain weave pure and blended fabrics automatic sampling rapier loom was used. The developed fabric samples were tested for various physical and functional properties. It can be concluded from the results of study that delignification was found suitable method for extraction of fibres directly from ribbons. Further, it was observed that the delignified fibres exhibited better physical properties like tenacity, elongation, fineness, and whiteness index. The SEM images of delignified fibres showed less presence of impurities than control fibres. Crystallanity index of nettle fibre increased after delignification. FTIR spectroscopy showed removal of lignin and hemicelluloses content from delignified nettle fibres. Fabric properties were found to be affected by blending of nettle with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios. Blending increased the thickness and weight in case of both nettle:cotton and nettle:bamboo blended woven fabric samples. Blended fabric samples exhibited good abrasions resistance, air permeability and good functional properties than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. Tensile strength and tearing strength was found good in weft direction. All blended fabric sample exhibited low crease recovery and more bending length than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. In both the blended fabric samples 65:35 nettle:cotton and 65:35 nettle:bamboo fabric samples exhibited good UPF ratings. Thus this study would be beneficial for proper utilization of nettle fibres by local communities for sustainable development.