Process optimization for dyeing of Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) fibres with madder (Rubia cordifolia) dye and product development
Loading...
Date
2021-02
Authors
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
The natural fibres and natural dyes are known for their different potential uses and their beneficial impact on environment and society as a whole.The present research was carried out for aqueous extraction of the natural dye through conventional technique and optimization of dyeing parameters for Himalayan nettle fibres. In the present study value addition of nettle fiber was done throughdyeing and products were developed using crochet technique. Four commercially available dye sources, namely Madder (Rubia cordifolia), Marigold (Tagetes erecta), Kamala (Mallotus philippinenis) and Catechu (Acecia catechu) were taken and
dyes extracted from these were applied on nettle fibre. Madder dye was selected on the basis of colour strength. Optimization of dyeing variables of Madder dye was done by using Box and Behnken Design of RSM. Final optimized fiber dyeing was carried out using 3% dye material concentration, 1:15 M:L ratio and 45 minutes dyeing time. For mordanting of nettle fibre total three mordant one natural (gallnut extract) and two synthetic (Ferrous Sulphate and alum) were taken.Mordanting method and mordant concentration was optimized on the basis of colour strength (K/S).In case of gallnut extract, simultaneous mordanting method and 5 percent concentration were optimized. In case of Ferrous sulphate and alum pre mordanting method was optimized. Optimized mordant concentration was 0.75% for Ferrous sulphate and 7% for alum. Final dyed and mordanted nettle fibres were tested for light, wash and rubbing fastness properties and samples showed good results of washing and very good results for light fastness, whereas excellent results were observed in case ofthe rubbing fastness. After the dyeing of the nettle fiber hand spun yarn was prepared using Bageshwari Charkha. Prepared yarns were used in development of products using crochet technique. Total
seven products namely earrings, necklace, anklet, dream catcher, wine bottle cover, wind chime and pot holder were developed. All the developed products were evaluated by 30 respondents on five point rating scale on novelty of design, colour combination, craftsmanship and overall appearance.Findings of the study revealedthat wine bottle cover obtainedwas given first rank followed by pot holder and dream catcher. Among all the developed products wind chime was the lowest rated product.Comprehensive effort has been made to improve the potential of environment friendly material for sustainable handicraft production. In this way products
developed from Himalayan nettle yarn can be helpful for the rural hill population in providing sustainable source of income through commercialization of products.