Dyeing Silk with Acacia nilotica Pods
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Date
2016-06
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University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad
Abstract
The present study was conducted during the year 2014-16 with the objectives to optimize the dyeing-conditions of Acacia nilotica, to study the physical properties of dyed silk, to assess the colour-fastness and colour strength of dyed silk and to estimate the dyeing cost of silk with Acacia nilotica. The degummed mulberry silk yarn and dried Acacia nilotica pods were used for the study. The powdered Acacia nilotica (5, 10, 15 and 20 g) was soaked overnight in different M.L.R (1:20, 1:30, 1:40) for optimize the dye-concentration and it was extracted by aqueous method. Based on the reflectance and K/S value, 10 g dye-concentration, 1:30 M.L.R, 30 min extraction-time were optimised for dye extraction. The pre treated silk mordanted with different metallic mordants viz., alum (5, 10, 15 %), stannous (0.5, 1.0, 1.5 %), copper and ferrous (1, 2, 3 %) in pre, simultaneous and post mordanting methods and dyed in optimized dye-concentration in 1:40 M.L.R for 30 min.
The dyed silk assessed for yarn strength, elongation and colour-fastness properties. Irrespective of mordants, mordant concentration and mordanting methods, pre-mordanted dyed silk yarn with alum (15 %), stannous (0.5 %), copper and ferrous (3 %) showed increased K/S value & colour co-ordinates and these mordants were used for mordant combination. Silk mordanted with copper+ferrous showed significantly higher K/S than the other mordant-combinations. The silk pre-mordanted with (15 %) alum showed greater strength & elongation than the other samples. All mordanted samples exhibited good-excellent fastness to rubbing, perspiration, sunlight and washing compared to control. The various shades obtained from dyed silk mordanted with alum and copper (light-brown to dark olive-green), stannous (light-brown to dark-cream) and ferrous (dark coffee-brown to light-ash). The production cost of dyeing silk mordanted with stannous and ferrous was comparatively inexpensive (Rs. 2,549.00) than the copper and alum mordanted samples (Rs. 2,568.00 – 2,599.00).