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Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar
Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University popularly known as HAU, is one of Asia's biggest agricultural universities, located at Hisar in the Indian state of Haryana. It is named after India's seventh Prime Minister, Chaudhary Charan Singh. It is a leader in agricultural research in India and contributed significantly to Green Revolution and White Revolution in India in the 1960s and 70s. It has a very large campus and has several research centres throughout the state. It won the Indian Council of Agricultural Research's Award for the Best Institute in 1997. HAU was initially a campus of Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. After the formation of Haryana in 1966, it became an autonomous institution on February 2, 1970 through a Presidential Ordinance, later ratified as Haryana and Punjab Agricultural Universities Act, 1970, passed by the Lok Sabha on March 29, 1970. A. L. Fletcher, the first Vice-Chancellor of the university, was instrumental in its initial growth.
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ThesisItem Open Access Effects of Softening Agent on Drapability of Cotton Khadi Fabric” submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-01) Chauhan, Neha; Arya, NishaKhadi can be deliberated as the vocal evocative of the Indian cottage Industry. Khadi fabric is emerging as a fashion fabric with shifted designers‟ interest in apparels but khadi also has drawbacks associated with it as cotton khadi is prone to wrinkles, poor drapability, higher maintenance cost etc. The present study has been conducted to study the effects of softening agent on drapability of cotton khadi fabric. Desizing and scouring was done by conventional and enzymatic method. Enzymatic desizing and scouring depicted better water absorption; hence it was continued for further research work. Three commercial softeners and three enzymes were procured on the basis of their suitability for softening of cotton khadi fabric. Eighteen combinations of commercial softeners and eighteen combinations of enzymes were tried and one top ranked combination from each category was selected on the basis of preference of experts. Standardization of commercial softener and enzymatic treatment for cotton khadi fabric was done on the basis of improvement in mechanical properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and drape coefficient. Application of conventional chemical treatment was done by exhaust method. Application of amino-silicone softener and enzymatic treatment was done as per optimized conditions by pad dry cure method. SEM was done to understand the changes in surface morphology and FTIR analysis was performed for understanding the functional groups after each treatment. The changes in physical and functional properties after different treatments were studied. The results showed improvement in softness and drape after each treatment with decrease in bending length (1.29 per cent in warp and 5.43 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (5.93 per cent) and drape coefficient (6.89 per cent) after conventional chemical treatment. After commercial softener treatment also, decrease in bending length (9.09 per cent in warp and 15.21 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (21.53 per cent) and drape coefficient (16.92 per cent) was observed and maximum decrease in bending length (18.18 per cent in warp and 27.17 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (41.06 per cent) and drape coefficient (28.37 per cent) was observed after enzymatic treatment. The treated cotton khadi fabric was assessed for reduction in the growth of bacteria for K. pneumoniae and S. aureus. Conventional chemical treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 for K. pneumoniae and 9.37 per cent for S. aureus whereas commercial softener treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 36.48 for K. pneumoniae and 45.31 for S. aureus. Enzymatically treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 per cent for K. pneumoniae and 37.50 for S. aureus in the growth as compared to controlled sample. It was also discerned that the UPF value of the scoured fabric was 8.07 which increased to 17.54 when treated with enzymes with good grade under protection category. The conventional chemical treatment also showed improvement in UPF value with moderate grade protection(14.70) but the ultra violet protection property increased slightly (8.88) after commercial softener treatment. The differently treated fabric samples were washed and changes in physical properties after 5, 10, 15 and 20 washing cycles were recorded. Conclusively, the application of softening agents improved the drapability and other physical as well as functional properties of treated cotton khadi fabric and will be beneficial for fulfilling the growing demand of suitable fabric hand and drape.ThesisItem Open Access Upcycling of pre and post apparel waste(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-01) Sodhi, Suman; Vivek SinghThe present research was conducted in Hisar city of Haryana state to design and develop a variety of textile products by utilizing pre and post apparel waste in different combinations. Fifty women were selected purposively from different areas of Hisar city to collect information regarding existing upcycling practices for pre and post apparel waste. The pre and post apparel waste was collected from boutique owners, tailors and known shopkeepers. Top ranked designs of six selected articles from each articles i.e. apparel and accessories, home furnishing & accessories and utility articles were selected and developed by the researcher using pre and post apparel waste. Hence, a total of 18 upcyled articles were developed. Cost of the developed upcycled articles was calculated on the basis of the cost of raw material used and labour charges. The cost of pre and post apparel waste was not calculated and added as these were collected free of cost The selling price of developed upcycled article was calculated by adding 10 percent profit to the cost price of each developed upcycled article. All the women were stitching female garments and majority of them were also engaged in alterations and repairs of garments. All the respondents possessed pre-apparel waste in the form of fabric scrapes and post-apparel waste in the form of rejected and damaged garments. They upcycled pre- apparel waste for repair and alteration of garments while gave away the post apparel waste i.e. discarded and damaged garments to servants, relatives, friends and charity. Major problem faced by respondents in upcycling of pre and post apparel waste was lack of knowledge regarding construction, embellishment and designing techniques while the least preferred problem was financial constraints Stitching as construction and designing technique and trimmings as embellishment technique were the commonly techniques used to construct, design and embellish various upcycled articles. Long kurti, children‟s dress, skirt, female shirt, gloves, and two piece dress as apparel and accessories, bed side runner, curtain, wall panel, door mat, bed sheet and designer pillow as home furnishing & accessories and bag organizer, hand bag, shoes organizer, multipurpose basket, clutch and wall pocket as utility articles were selected upcycled articles, developed in their top ranked designs by the researcher using pre and post apparel waste along with collected trimmings and fasteners. Hence, a total of 18 upcyled articles were developed which included six upcycled articles developed by using only post apparel waste, six by combination of pre and post apparel waste and remaining six upcycled articles were developed by post apparel waste with new textile material. The cost of all the upcycled home furnishing and accessories was maximum ranging from ` 145-648 followed by the cost of upcycled apparel and accessories i.e. ` 157-328. The cost of upcycled utility articles was minimum ranging from ` 69-271. All the developed upcycled articles were assessed highly acceptable by the consumers in terms of workmanship and utility. In terms of overall appearance, female shirt, curtain and wall pocket got Ist rank as apparel, home furnishing and utility article respectively. The cost of upcycled articles was considered „appropriate‟ by majority of consumers. Consumers had high opinion about all the upcycled articles and expert had high opinion regarding upcycling of pre and post apparel waste. After training the trainees acquired sufficient knowledge regarding various aspects of upcycling which was recorded statistically significance at 1 percent level of significance. Thus, pre and post apparel waste was upcycled efficiently in different combinations to produce a wide range of textile products by using various upcycling techniques as per apparel waste and upcycled articles.ThesisItem Open Access Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on Softening of Jute Fabric(CCSHAU,HiSAR, 2020-06) Jamal, Zeba; Arya, NishaJute has many beneficial properties such as high tensile strength and modulus with good dimensional stability but has some drawbacks such as harshness, poor wrinkle recovery, high fiber shedding, yellowing on exposure to sunlight, susceptible to microbial attack and less resistant to fire. The present study has been conducted to note the effects of enzymatic treatment on softening of jute fabric. Desizing and scouring was done by conventional and enzymatic method. Enzymatic desizing and scouring depicted better water absorption and weight loss, hence it was continued. Three commercial softeners and four enzymes were procured on the basis of their suitability for softening of jute fabric. Eighteen combinations of commercial softeners and 39 combinations of enzymes were tried and one top ranked combination from each category selected on the basis of preference of experts was continued for further research work. Standardization of commercial softener and enzymatic treatment for jute fabric was done on the basis of improvement in mechanical properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and drape coefficient. Application of conventional chemical treatment was done by exhaust method. Application of aminosilicone softener and enzymatic treatment was done as per optimized conditions by pad dry cure method. SEM was done to understand the changes in surface morphology after each treatment. The changes in physical and functional properties after different treatments were studied. There was improvement in softness and drape after each treatment but maximum decrease in bending length (40.64 per cent in warp and 45.43 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (86.14 per cent) and drape coefficient (30.86 per cent) was observed after enzymatic treatment. The enzymatically treated jute fabric exhibited 13 CFUs for E.coli bacteria with 95.11 per cent reduction in the growth of bacteria whereas it showed 131 CFUs for S. aureus bacteria having 88.32 per cent reduction in the growth as compared to controlled sample. It was also discerned that the UPF value of the scoured fabric was 13.07 which increased to 57.64 when treated with enzymes with very good grade under protection category. The conventional chemical treatment also showed some improvement in UPF value (23.88) but the ultra violet protection property increased slightly (13.89) after commercial softener treatment. The differently treated fabric samples were washed 20 times and changes in physical and functional properties after 5, 10, 15 and 20 washing cycles were recorded. The enzymatic treatment was found to be most durable as it was successfully retained up to 15 washes. Preferences of experts‟ for development of products from enzymatically softened jute fabric was taken. Top two preferred products from three categories i.e. home furnishing articles, utility articles and apparel & accessories were selected for product development. Eighteen designs (3 for each selected article) were developed using Corel Draw 12 software. On the basis of experts‟ preference, top preferred design for each product was selected for product development. A total of six products viz. table runner, table mats (set of six), wall pocket, handbag, ladies jacket and cap were developed. Their cost was calculated including the cost of fabric, enzymatic treatment, stitching and finishing. The products were got assessed by fifty consumers for their market potential. All the developed products were highly acceptable by consumers. Thus, the enzymatic softening treatment is considered appropriate for jute fabric and it will help in mainstreaming and revival of its status in global market.ThesisItem Open Access Development of anti-felting wool fabric(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-06) Sushma Rani; Rose, Neelam M.Wool fabric is known for its luxury and unique properties like breathability, excellent thermal insulation, flame retardancy, thermo-regulation and comfort properties. However, poor dimensional stability is one of the major limitations of wool fabrics that is caused by the progressive fibre entanglement in the wool fabric after repeated launderings. Thus, there is an imperative need to develop a treatment which not only prevent the wool from felting but also take care of the nature and textile material itself. Therefore, the present study was undertaken to impart the anti-felting treatment to wool fabric using eco-friendly biopolymers and enzymes. Three biopolymers and four enzymes were selected for imparting anti-felting treatment to wool fabric. The pad-dry-cure method for biopolymer treatment and exhaust method for enzyme treatment of wool fabric were selected on the basis of maximum shrink resistance obtained after washing that included one relaxation cycle and three felting cycles. For standardization of anti-felting biopolymer treatment, different variables i.e. padding bath components (biopolymer, cross-linking agent, catalyst), pH, material to liquor ratio, treatment temperature and time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis of least percent area shrinkage achieved by treated wool fabric. For standardization of anti-felting enzyme treatment, concentration and material to liquor ratio for each selected enzyme were optimized on the basis of obtained minimum area shrinkage to wool fabric after washing. As enzymes are very sensitive to pH, treatment temperature and time, thus these treatment variables were kept specific as provided by the manufacturers. Anti-felting biopolymer and enzyme treatments were imparted to wool fabric using their optimized concentrations and conditions. Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FE-SEM) and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis of biopolymer and enzyme treated wool fabrics was done. The physical (preliminary, mechanical and performance) and functional properties (antibacterial and ultraviolet protection) of treated wool fabrics were tested to analyze the effect of anti-felting treatments. The durability of anti-felting biopolymer and enzyme treatments was assessed after washing, ironing and perspiration. The effect of anti-felting treatments on dyeability of the wool fabric with natural and synthetic dyes was also analyzed. Anti-felting biopolymer treatment was given to wool fabric through pad-dry-cure method with all the three selected biopolymers using optimized concentrations of padding bath components i.e. 0.5 percent for chitosan, gum arabic and wheat starch biopolymers, 6 percent for citric acid cross-linking agent and 6 percent for sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate catalyst maintaining material to liquor-ratio 1:30 having neutral pH at 35°C temperature for 10 minutes. The 60°C drying temperature with 30 minutes and 145°C curing temperature with 10 minutes were optimized on the basis of obtained maximum shrink resistance to wool fabric. Anti-felting enzyme treatment was imparted through exhaust method to wool fabric with optimum concentration of 2 percent for laccase and transglutaminase and 1 percent for lipase and protease enzymes keeping optimum MLR of 1:30. The enzyme treatment of wool were carried out using enzyme specific conditions i.e. 4.5 pH for lacccse, 8.5 pH for lipase and protease and 7.0 pH for transglutaminase enzyme maintaining 55ºC temperature for 60 minutes. FE-SEM analysis exhibited blunt scales after each biopolymer treatment and reduced sharpness of scales with all the four enzyme treatments. FTIR analysis exhibited presence of various functional groups at different peaks in biopolymer and enzyme treated wool fabrics. Preliminary properties i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness of wool fabric exhibited an increase when treated with biopolymers and enzymes. The bending and tensile properties of biopolymer and enzyme treated wool fabrics found comparable with that of scoured fabric while the frictional properties of wool fabric were found to be increased significantly after biopolymer and enzyme treatments. The moisture content and regain of all the treated wool fabrics found comparable with standard moisture content (13.50 %) and regain (16.00 %) of wool fabric. The wettability of scoured wool fabric remain unchanged after anti-felting biopolymer and enzyme treatments. The crease recovery angle of scoured wool fabric increased after biopolymer and enzyme treatments. The air permeability was found to be increased after treatment with chitosan and gum arabic biopolymers and lipase and transglutaminase enzymes. The whiteness of wheat starch and all the enzyme treated wool fabrics found comparable with scoured wool fabric. The whiteness index of all the treated fabrics was much lower than fabric treated with conventional method of shrink resistance. It was observed that all the treated wool fabrics exhibited good antibacterial activity against S. aureus and E. coli bacteria. The UPF value of scoured wool fabric enhanced after biopolymer and enzyme anti-felting treatments that came under excellent protection category. Both the anti-felting treatments were found to be effective to give dimensional stability to wool fabric against washing, ironing and perspiration. Biopolymer treated wool fabric dyed with natural dye showed increased colour strength. Thus, biopolymer and enzyme treatments can be used as viable and sustainable alternatives to conventional treatments for developing machine washable shrink-resistant wool fabric without any adverse effect on fabric properties.ThesisItem Open Access Development of Home Furnishing Textile Articles using Digital Embroidery(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2019-12) Sarita Devi; Arya, NishaIndia has a rich heritage of traditional textiles. The Indian traditional embroidery plays an important role in creating new designs in the fashion world. The present study has been conducted to develop digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles using Indian traditional embroidery motifs. The Indian traditional embroideries which can be easily transformed into digital form were explored from secondary sources and five top ranked Indian traditional embroideries i.e. Kashidakari, Phulkari, Kasuti, Applique work and Kutch & Kathiawar were selected for further work. Top preferred three home furnishing textile articles, double bed sheet with pillow covers, roman blind and cushion cover were selected for product development. Top ten preferred motifs, were selected for development of designs as per preferences of experts. One hundred fifty designs (30 for each selected embroidery) were created, using selected motifs with the help of Corel DRAW X3 software. Top ranked three designs from each selected embroidery, design number 1, 8 and 19 from Kashidakari embroidery; design number 1, 4 and 19 from Phulkari embroidery; design number 4, 11 and 26 from Kasuti embroidery; design number 9, 16 and 24 from Appliqué work and design number 9, 16 and 24 from kutchand kathiawar embroidery were selected on the basis of experts’ preferences for preparation of design placements. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabric and base color of fabric for product development. On the basis of experts’ preference, top preferred placements and colour ways were selected for product development. A total of forty five home furnishing textile articles i.e. bed sheet with two pillow covers (3 numbers), roman blind (one number) and set of cushion cover (5 numbers) were developed in five selected embroideries employing selected designs, preferred design placement and color ways on selected golden tint fabric using digital embroidery. The cost of developed double bed sheet with pillow covers ranged from Rs. 4750 to 5000, roman blinds ranged from Rs. 4700 to 4800 and cushion cover (set of five) ranged from Rs. 4200 to 4500. Majority of the consumers rated cost as appropriate for developed double bed sheet with pillow covers and cushion covers whereas rated cost as high for roman blind. All the developed digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles were highly acceptable by consumers. Thus, adoption of developed designs from Indian traditional embroidery motifs on home furnishing textile articles using digital embroidery technique is beneficial in preservation of traditional heritage of Indian embroidery and also facilitate faster production in lesser time.ThesisItem Open Access Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn(CCSHAU, 2018) Sharma, Bharti; Yadav, NirmalaThe present study entitled „Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn‟ was conducted. Information on existing status and usage pattern of ten selected shoddy industries located in Panipat, Haryana producing cotton blended shoddy yarn and products were collected using self structured interview schedule and supplemented through observations. Maximum no. of the owners were in the age group of above 50 years, graduate, married and had above 30 years of work experience. The selected shoddy industries were established from 1970 onwards and were registered. Majority of the industries were started with amount Rs. 30 to 50 lac as capital investment. Manpower employed were managers, supervisors and other skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled workers. Male were employed on managerial & supervisor post. There were more skilled male workers whereas more number of female workers were under the categories of unskilled workers. All of the owners faced the managerial problems like price inflation of raw materials, lack of govt. support and technical problem like electricity. The raw material was procured from the local market, other state of India & other countries in the form of rags. Quality of rags was considered while purchasing raw material as per the requirement of product preparation. Selected industries prepared the cotton blended shoddy yarn in different blends proportions i.e. cotton with acrylic, polyester, nylon and cotton with other fibre in 2.5s, 4s, 6s, 8 & 10s and 2 & 4 ply in available colur. The prepared shoddy yarn and fabric were tested for physical parameters. Numbers of defects were reported i.e. uneven yarn thickness slippage of yarn, use of uneven yarn & mismatch of colour in majority of the industries. The products prepared were rugs, foot mat, khes, stool mat, beach towel in different counts and decorated using frills, got/band. Manufacturing cost and utility of the product considered for calculating the cost in all the industries. The five samples of cotton blended shoddy yarns and their fabric samples of different ply, count and blend proportions procured from the selected shoddy industries to get the preferences for yarn count, ply and blend porportions for product development. The preference was done using preferential choice index by the experts. The selected yarn was cotton with polyester blended (70+30%) in 10s and 2 ply. The fabrics were got prepared in selected colour in one of the selected shoddy industry as per the selected specifications. The prepared fabric was tested for physical parameters. Top five ranked products i.e. curtain, table mat, cushion cover, mudha cover and ladies shirt were selected out of the prepared list of products that can be made using selected yarn. Top three constructional designs for each product were selected out of ten constructional designs for each product developed with the help of CorelDRAW-12 for product development. Top preferred one design for screen printing was selected for each product for placement, out of fifty screen printing developed designs. One best design placement for each selected product designs was selected, out of created forty five placements. Five products in three constructional designs were developed, enriched with selected screen printing designs and selected design placement enhanced by doing running stitch using hand embroidery threads in contrast colour selected colour of screen printing design and base colour of fabric. Hence, total fifteen products were developed. All the developed products were adjudged by the consumers very suitable in terms of texture, design, utility and appearance. On the basis of overall acceptance cushion cover, mudha cover and table mat were highly acceptable. Curtain was acceptable and the ladies shirt was least acceptable by the consumers. A design catalogue was prepared.ThesisItem Open Access Diversified use of recycled woollen blended yarn’ submitted for the degree of doctor of philosophy, in the subject of ‘textile and apparel designing(CCSHAU, 2018) Saini, Neelam; Yadav, SarojIt is the fact that textile wastes are unavoidable bi-products of any manufacturing process and many textile processes produce it in high volume. Recycling is a key concept of modern waste management which includes pre- processing of waste material into new product in a manner that on the one hand some burden of solid waste on our ecosystem is lessened and on the other sustainability is achieved. To achieve the specific objectives of study, twenty shoddy units of Panipat, Haryana were selected to study the existing status of shoddy industry. Usage practices of recycled blended yarns with respect to manufacturing techniques, production process, procurement and consumption pattern, development of products were recorded. One recycled blended yarns of two different yarn counts was selected as per preferences of experts. An exhaustive list of products including apparel, home textile and utility articles was prepared and top ranked two products were selected. Graphical representations of basic weaves with their derivatives and fancy weaves were created using CorelDRAW-12 software and on the basis of experts preferences top ranked three weaves were selected for creation of possible weave combinations designs. Ten designs of each weave combination were created and out of thirty designs top preferred six designs, two of each weave combination designs were selected for fabric weaving. Twelve fabrics of recycled blended yarns and two of fresh yarns (control) were got woven. The selected recycled yarns and woven fabrics were tested for their physical properties. Twenty four shoddy products and four products of fabric woven using fresh yarns (control) were developed. The developed products were got assessed from consumers on different parameters. Results revealed that all the selected units were ISO 9000 and 14000 certified and had annual turnover of more than ` 25 lacs. Most of the units were on partnership pattern, established with the help of external financial support and running in their own premises. Shoddy yarn manufacturing units procured rags from local (15-30%), domestic (5-15%) and international (50-80%) markets to prepare recycled blended yarn of wool (40-70%), polyester, acrylic (5-40% each) and cotton (5-10%). All the ten shoddy product manufacturing units were preparing blankets, carpets, rugs. Manufactured shoddy yarns and products were mainly marketed in local, domestic and international markets though wholesalers (50-80%), market agents (10-50%) and retailers (10-30%). Recycled blended yarn composed of wool, acrylic and polyester fibres was most preferred (WMS 2.70). The selected blended yarn of 10s (WMS 2.76) and 8s (WMS 2.66) were used for fabric weaving. On the basis of experts‟ preferences gents‟ jacket (WMS 2.60) and ladies‟ kurti (WMS 2.50) were two top preferred products. Thirty weave combination designs were created using right hand twill (WMS 2.80), left hand twill (WMS 2.75) and zig zag twill (WMS 2.69) weave. The selected designs were design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 9 (WMS 2.66) of left hand twill and right hand twill weave combination and design number 3 (WMS 2.86) and 6 (WMS 2.90) of right hand twill and zig zag twill weave combination and design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 5 (WMS 2.83) of zig zag twill and left hand twill weave combination. The physical properties of shoddy fabrics were almost similar to the control fabrics as indicated by CD, F-value, CV and SE. Most preferred constructional designs were design number 7 (WMS 2.53) for gents‟ jacket and design number 10 (WMS 2.57) for ladies‟ kurti. All the developed twenty four shoddy products i.e. 12 gents‟ jacket and 12 ladies‟ kurti were found highly acceptable for all the assessment parameters as indicated by their WMS values above 2.33. The cost of developed gents‟ jacket ranged from `600 to 650 and ` 1117 to 1200 for ladies‟ kurti, which was rated as appropriate by most of the consumers. The products developed from recycled blended yarn were found highly acceptable by the consumers.
