Diversified use of recycled woollen blended yarn’ submitted for the degree of doctor of philosophy, in the subject of ‘textile and apparel designing
Loading...
Date
2018
Authors
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
CCSHAU
Abstract
It is the fact that textile wastes are unavoidable bi-products of any manufacturing process and many
textile processes produce it in high volume. Recycling is a key concept of modern waste management which
includes pre- processing of waste material into new product in a manner that on the one hand some burden of solid
waste on our ecosystem is lessened and on the other sustainability is achieved. To achieve the specific objectives
of study, twenty shoddy units of Panipat, Haryana were selected to study the existing status of shoddy industry.
Usage practices of recycled blended yarns with respect to manufacturing techniques, production process,
procurement and consumption pattern, development of products were recorded. One recycled blended yarns of
two different yarn counts was selected as per preferences of experts. An exhaustive list of products including
apparel, home textile and utility articles was prepared and top ranked two products were selected. Graphical
representations of basic weaves with their derivatives and fancy weaves were created using CorelDRAW-12
software and on the basis of experts preferences top ranked three weaves were selected for creation of possible
weave combinations designs. Ten designs of each weave combination were created and out of thirty designs top
preferred six designs, two of each weave combination designs were selected for fabric weaving. Twelve fabrics of
recycled blended yarns and two of fresh yarns (control) were got woven. The selected recycled yarns and woven
fabrics were tested for their physical properties. Twenty four shoddy products and four products of fabric woven
using fresh yarns (control) were developed. The developed products were got assessed from consumers on
different parameters.
Results revealed that all the selected units were ISO 9000 and 14000 certified and had annual turnover of
more than ` 25 lacs. Most of the units were on partnership pattern, established with the help of external financial
support and running in their own premises. Shoddy yarn manufacturing units procured rags from local (15-30%),
domestic (5-15%) and international (50-80%) markets to prepare recycled blended yarn of wool (40-70%),
polyester, acrylic (5-40% each) and cotton (5-10%). All the ten shoddy product manufacturing units were
preparing blankets, carpets, rugs. Manufactured shoddy yarns and products were mainly marketed in local,
domestic and international markets though wholesalers (50-80%), market agents (10-50%) and retailers (10-30%).
Recycled blended yarn composed of wool, acrylic and polyester fibres was most preferred (WMS 2.70). The
selected blended yarn of 10s (WMS 2.76) and 8s (WMS 2.66) were used for fabric weaving. On the basis of
experts‟ preferences gents‟ jacket (WMS 2.60) and ladies‟ kurti (WMS 2.50) were two top preferred products.
Thirty weave combination designs were created using right hand twill (WMS 2.80), left hand twill (WMS 2.75)
and zig zag twill (WMS 2.69) weave. The selected designs were design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 9 (WMS 2.66)
of left hand twill and right hand twill weave combination and design number 3 (WMS 2.86) and 6 (WMS 2.90) of
right hand twill and zig zag twill weave combination and design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 5 (WMS 2.83) of zig
zag twill and left hand twill weave combination. The physical properties of shoddy fabrics were almost similar to
the control fabrics as indicated by CD, F-value, CV and SE. Most preferred constructional designs were design
number 7 (WMS 2.53) for gents‟ jacket and design number 10 (WMS 2.57) for ladies‟ kurti. All the developed
twenty four shoddy products i.e. 12 gents‟ jacket and 12 ladies‟ kurti were found highly acceptable for all the
assessment parameters as indicated by their WMS values above 2.33. The cost of developed gents‟ jacket ranged
from `600 to 650 and ` 1117 to 1200 for ladies‟ kurti, which was rated as appropriate by most of the consumers.
The products developed from recycled blended yarn were found highly acceptable by the consumers.
Description
Keywords
null