Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on Softening of Jute Fabric
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Date
2020-06
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CCSHAU,HiSAR
Abstract
Jute has many beneficial properties such as high tensile strength and modulus with good dimensional stability but has some drawbacks such as harshness, poor wrinkle recovery, high fiber shedding, yellowing on exposure to sunlight, susceptible to microbial attack and less resistant to fire. The present study has been conducted to note the effects of enzymatic treatment on softening of jute fabric. Desizing and scouring was done by conventional and enzymatic method. Enzymatic desizing and scouring depicted better water absorption and weight loss, hence it was continued. Three commercial softeners and four enzymes were procured on the basis of their suitability for softening of jute fabric. Eighteen combinations of commercial softeners and 39 combinations of enzymes were tried and one top ranked combination from each category selected on the basis of preference of experts was continued for further research work. Standardization of commercial softener and enzymatic treatment for jute fabric was done on the basis of improvement in mechanical properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and drape coefficient. Application of conventional chemical treatment was done by exhaust method. Application of aminosilicone softener and enzymatic treatment was done as per optimized conditions by pad dry cure method. SEM was done to understand the changes in surface morphology after each treatment. The changes in physical and functional properties after different treatments were studied. There was improvement in softness and drape after each treatment but maximum decrease in bending length (40.64 per cent in warp and 45.43 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (86.14 per cent) and drape coefficient (30.86 per cent) was observed after enzymatic treatment. The enzymatically treated jute fabric exhibited 13 CFUs for E.coli bacteria with 95.11 per cent reduction in the growth of bacteria whereas it showed 131 CFUs for S. aureus bacteria having 88.32 per cent reduction in the growth as compared to controlled sample. It was also discerned that the UPF value of the scoured fabric was 13.07 which increased to 57.64 when treated with enzymes with very good grade under protection category. The conventional chemical treatment also showed some improvement in UPF value (23.88) but the ultra violet protection property increased slightly (13.89) after commercial softener treatment. The differently treated fabric samples were washed 20 times and changes in physical and functional properties after 5, 10, 15 and 20 washing cycles were recorded. The enzymatic treatment was found to be most durable as it was successfully retained up to 15 washes. Preferences of experts‟ for development of products from enzymatically softened jute fabric was taken. Top two preferred products from three categories i.e. home furnishing articles, utility articles and apparel & accessories were selected for product development. Eighteen designs (3 for each selected article) were developed using Corel Draw 12 software. On the basis of experts‟ preference, top preferred design for each product was selected for product development. A total of six products viz. table runner, table mats (set of six), wall pocket, handbag, ladies jacket and cap were developed. Their cost was calculated including the cost of fabric, enzymatic treatment, stitching and finishing. The products were got assessed by fifty consumers for their market potential. All the developed products were highly acceptable by consumers. Thus, the enzymatic softening treatment is considered appropriate for jute fabric and it will help in mainstreaming and revival of its status in global market.