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Govind Ballabh Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar

After independence, development of the rural sector was considered the primary concern of the Government of India. In 1949, with the appointment of the Radhakrishnan University Education Commission, imparting of agricultural education through the setting up of rural universities became the focal point. Later, in 1954 an Indo-American team led by Dr. K.R. Damle, the Vice-President of ICAR, was constituted that arrived at the idea of establishing a Rural University on the land-grant pattern of USA. As a consequence a contract between the Government of India, the Technical Cooperation Mission and some land-grant universities of USA, was signed to promote agricultural education in the country. The US universities included the universities of Tennessee, the Ohio State University, the Kansas State University, The University of Illinois, the Pennsylvania State University and the University of Missouri. The task of assisting Uttar Pradesh in establishing an agricultural university was assigned to the University of Illinois which signed a contract in 1959 to establish an agricultural University in the State. Dean, H.W. Hannah, of the University of Illinois prepared a blueprint for a Rural University to be set up at the Tarai State Farm in the district Nainital, UP. In the initial stage the University of Illinois also offered the services of its scientists and teachers. Thus, in 1960, the first agricultural university of India, UP Agricultural University, came into being by an Act of legislation, UP Act XI-V of 1958. The Act was later amended under UP Universities Re-enactment and Amendment Act 1972 and the University was rechristened as Govind Ballabh Pant University of Agriculture and Technology keeping in view the contributions of Pt. Govind Ballabh Pant, the then Chief Minister of UP. The University was dedicated to the Nation by the first Prime Minister of India Pt Jawaharlal Nehru on 17 November 1960. The G.B. Pant University is a symbol of successful partnership between India and the United States. The establishment of this university brought about a revolution in agricultural education, research and extension. It paved the way for setting up of 31 other agricultural universities in the country.

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  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Development of size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand and construction of designed khadi kurties
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-07) Gayatri; Goel, Alka
    Khadi is hand spun and hand woven fabric. Thus, it’s known for its unique texture and comfortable feel. It is general observation that readymade khadi garments are unfashionable. Therefore, these are not preferred by young population for their own clothing. Moreover fitting of khadi garments is also not approved due to unavailability of size charts. Present study was carried out to develop size chart and design khadi kurties. In this study, three surveys were conducted, first one to collect information related to respondent’s awareness about khadi, buying practices and preferences for readymade kurties, second survey was to collect anthropometric measurements and third survey was to know consumers preference for readymade khadi kurties. Sample size for I and III survey was 100 and that of III survey was 1000. Respondents (21-31years) were selected from two geographical region viz., GBPUA&T, Pantnagar (1000 m. Above MSL) and DSB Campus, Kumaun University (1000-2500 m. Above MSL), Nainital of Uttarakhand. Anthropometric measurements were taken as per ISO 8559:1989 (En) standard. Size chart were developed based on anthropometric measurements and were compared with national and international brands. Second part of research was designing of kurties in which 32 kurties (16 A-line & 16 flared) were designed using different constructional features using Jindex CAD software. Designed kurties were evaluated by panel of judges and out of which 5 kurties each were selected based on average WMS. Block and machine embroidered motifs arrangements were done separately on selected kurties. Total 60 designs arrangements were developed which included 30 designs each for block and machine embroidery motif. Out of this, total 20 designs were selected for development on fabric. Out of 20 designs 5 designs each were of A-line kurti with block printing and machine embroidered and 5 designs each were of flared kurties with block printing and machine embroidery. Constructed designs were evaluated by target consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Obtained data was subjected to statistical analysis. Result of first survey indicates that respondents were aware about khadi but were not using it because lack of fit and trendy/ appealing designs. Size chart was developed by conducting an anthropometric survey as per ISO 8559: 1989 (en) of 1000 females (21-31 years) from two geographical regions of Uttarakhand i.e., hill (1000-2500 m. altitude) and foot hill or plain (below 1000 m. altitude) by equal stratified sampling technique. It was observed that all collected measurements were normally distributed in the second survey. Vertical and horizontal measurements showed positive correlation with height and weight. Variation in the maximum body measurements (cm) of females (21-31 years) of both regions was found to be highly significant means there is variation in body measurements of females living in two different geographical regions. Then, based on percentile approach, the size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand was developed with the five size codes ‘S’, ‘M’, ‘L’, ‘XL’, and ‘XXL’. Taking the most preferred constructional feature of kurties obtained from III survey, designing and constructional of kurti was done. Designed and constructed kurties were well accepted and appreciated by target group and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Cost estimation was also accepted by the consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Delignification of Dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata) fibres for value addition with blending and development of union fabric
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-02) Bhatt, Pooja; Anita Rani
    The natural fibres have dominated and coexisted with synthetic fibres in textile industry for long period of time. The alarming environmental concerns with increased used of synthetic fibres shifted research interest towards resources of natural and lignocellulosic fibres. The bast fibres have provided an opportunity to lead towards high quality textile market with economic and environmental benefits. Sesbania aculeata locally known as dhaincha has abundant possibilities in textile sector. It is only used for green manuring in Tarai region of Uttarakhand to enrich soil. The coarse nature and high lignin content limits use of dhaincha fibres in textile sector. Therefore, present study was planned to delignify dhaincha fibres to increase softness; spin yarns through blending with cotton and bamboo fibres and to prepare union fabrics from blended yarns. The dhaincha fibres were extracted using stagnant water retting method for 15 days. The variables for delignification i.e., acetic acid concentration, sodium chlorite concentration, sodium hydroxide concentration and sodium hydroxide treatment time were optimized using Box Behnken Design of RSM. The effect of independent variables on dhaincha fibres after delignification treatment was observed on lignin content, tenacity, moisture regain and whiteness index of fibres. The dhaincha fibres were delignified in bulk using optimized recipe for delignification treatment. The physical properties of fibres obtained after retting and delignification treatment were assessed to observe effect of delignification on properties of fibres. The delignified dhaincha fibres were blended with cotton and bamboo fibres in two ratios, 30:70 and 40:60 to develop blended yarns on computerized Trytex Rotor Spinning Machine. The union fabrics were prepared from the blended yarns in weft and cotton and bamboo yarns as warp respectively on handloom using plain weave. The developed yarn and fabric samples were tested for various physical and functional properties. The findings of study revealed that delignification treatment enhanced the softness and whiteness index of dhaincha fibres thereby, could increase economic viability and utility of the plant. The SEM images showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and impurities and XRD analysis revealed decrease in crystallinity index of dhaincha fibres and increased amorphous regions in fibres after delignification. FTIR spectroscopy showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and pectin to some extent after delignification. Rotor spun blended yarns were of low count, strength and yarn twist. Fabric properties were found to be affected by blending of dhaincha with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios. Blending increased thickness and weight in case of both dhaincha:cotton and dhaincha:bamboo woven union fabric samples. The union fabric samples exhibited good air permeability and wettability after blending of dhaincha fibres with cotton and bamboo. Tensile and tearing strength were found good in weft direction of prepared woven fabric samples due to high fabric count in weft direction. All union fabric samples exhibited low crease recovery and bending length than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. Thus, delignified dhaincha fibres and union fabrics developed from dhaincha, cotton and bamboo would offer diversified textile and might widen scope of use of plant for different value added products.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Documentation of Naqquashi Nirmal Arts of Telangana and textile product development through hand painting
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-01) Challa, Lakshmi; Gahlot, Manisha
    Telangana state is considered as home for many of the handicrafts and handloom wonders of Indian textiles. The present study was a descriptive, exploratory and product development research devised to produce different hand painted textiles using Nirmal art designs. The objectives were to document the traditional paintings of the Nirmal arts, their evolution and developmental aspects, to carry out the design development process to develop a range of textile products, to assess the consumer and market acceptance of the developed products. The primarily available sources for documentation were Nirmal artists. Inferential approach was used to explore the Nirmal art in different contexts. The artefacts made under the umbrella of Nirmal arts included toys, paintings and furniture. Detailed research on the survival journey of Nirmal painting from tradition to innovation along the historic timeline was presented. The present study focused on the painting sector of Nirmal arts. The base used was derived from wood of Ponniki tree (Givotia rottleriformis). The colours used were natural pigments derived from herbs, vegetables, fruits and mineral deposits. The distinguishing feature of the Nirmal art was the Naqquashi work. It refers to the tracing process used for design. It was done with the help of perforated muslin fabric and chalk powder. The traced design was then painted with the tempera technique using pigment colours. The choice of the pigment was based on the season along with type, nature and source of the pigment. The themes used were drawn from ancient literary and folk traditions. The products made included portraits, wall panels, screen partitions, etc. Ten primary and ancillary motifs were selected from the collected Nirmal traditional paintings for adaptation process. The motifs were digitized by using CorelDraw Graphics Suite 2019 and Adobe Photoshop 7.0. Design arrangements were made using selected primary and ancillary motif combinations for each of the three products. Selected design arrangements were used for product development. Nine products were developed that included three of each silk sarees, silk stoles and cotton wall decorations using hand painting technique with natural pigments. These were evaluated by panel of subject experts, prospective consumers, fashion designers, fashion business experts and Nirmal artists. The respondents highly appreciated the developed hand painted products. It can be inferred that the saree 1 created by using the dancing couple and ambari was highly preferred by the subject experts, consumers and the retailers. The stole (Matsya Kanya and the cash bag) was given the first rank by subject experts, consumers. Wall decoration (Apsara on the veena with the floral twines) was given first rank by consumers and retailers in terms of different parameters like aesthetic appearance, the base fabric used and the design arrangements. There exists an ample scope for design, product development and commercialization prospects for the Nirmal arts in textiles.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Delignification of Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) ribbons for fibre extraction and development of blended yarns and fabrics
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-11) Singh, Beenu; Gahlot, Manisha
    The best step towards nature conservation is the use of eco friendly products in our day to day life. The hills of Himalayas are endowed with indigenous flora rich in natural fibres due to favourable climatic conditions. Under the belt of mountainous region of Uttarakhand state, there are immense fibre yielding plant species growing wildly and have potential to become source of livelihood for local community of hilly areas. Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) plant, locally known as bicchu buti is one of the fibre yielding plant with lots of good properties. Therefore, present study was planned to utilize nettle fibres for the preparation of blended fabrics with cotton and bamboo. The nettle fibres were extracted through delignification method. The variables of delignification i.e., sodium chlorite concentration, acetic acid concentration, treatment time and sodium hydroxide concentration of selected delignification process were optimized using BBD of RSM. Responses taken were tensile strength and lignin content. Total 29 experiments were conducted for delignification and on the basis of maximum tensile strength and minimum lignin content delignification method was optimised for extraction of nettle fibres in bulk. Comparison between the physical properties of fibres obtained with delignification method and water retting method was done to observe the effect of delignification on properties of fibre. Processed nettle fibres were carded and then blended with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios on mini carding machine and machine spun to produce 100% cotton and 100% bamboo and blended yarns on computerized Trytex Rotor Spinning Machine. For the production of plain weave pure and blended fabrics automatic sampling rapier loom was used. The developed fabric samples were tested for various physical and functional properties. It can be concluded from the results of study that delignification was found suitable method for extraction of fibres directly from ribbons. Further, it was observed that the delignified fibres exhibited better physical properties like tenacity, elongation, fineness, and whiteness index. The SEM images of delignified fibres showed less presence of impurities than control fibres. Crystallanity index of nettle fibre increased after delignification. FTIR spectroscopy showed removal of lignin and hemicelluloses content from delignified nettle fibres. Fabric properties were found to be affected by blending of nettle with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios. Blending increased the thickness and weight in case of both nettle:cotton and nettle:bamboo blended woven fabric samples. Blended fabric samples exhibited good abrasions resistance, air permeability and good functional properties than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. Tensile strength and tearing strength was found good in weft direction. All blended fabric sample exhibited low crease recovery and more bending length than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. In both the blended fabric samples 65:35 nettle:cotton and 65:35 nettle:bamboo fabric samples exhibited good UPF ratings. Thus this study would be beneficial for proper utilization of nettle fibres by local communities for sustainable development.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Process optimization for dyeing of Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) fibres with madder (Rubia cordifolia) dye and product development
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-02) Rashmi Bala; Gahlot, Manisha
    The natural fibres and natural dyes are known for their different potential uses and their beneficial impact on environment and society as a whole.The present research was carried out for aqueous extraction of the natural dye through conventional technique and optimization of dyeing parameters for Himalayan nettle fibres. In the present study value addition of nettle fiber was done throughdyeing and products were developed using crochet technique. Four commercially available dye sources, namely Madder (Rubia cordifolia), Marigold (Tagetes erecta), Kamala (Mallotus philippinenis) and Catechu (Acecia catechu) were taken and dyes extracted from these were applied on nettle fibre. Madder dye was selected on the basis of colour strength. Optimization of dyeing variables of Madder dye was done by using Box and Behnken Design of RSM. Final optimized fiber dyeing was carried out using 3% dye material concentration, 1:15 M:L ratio and 45 minutes dyeing time. For mordanting of nettle fibre total three mordant one natural (gallnut extract) and two synthetic (Ferrous Sulphate and alum) were taken.Mordanting method and mordant concentration was optimized on the basis of colour strength (K/S).In case of gallnut extract, simultaneous mordanting method and 5 percent concentration were optimized. In case of Ferrous sulphate and alum pre mordanting method was optimized. Optimized mordant concentration was 0.75% for Ferrous sulphate and 7% for alum. Final dyed and mordanted nettle fibres were tested for light, wash and rubbing fastness properties and samples showed good results of washing and very good results for light fastness, whereas excellent results were observed in case ofthe rubbing fastness. After the dyeing of the nettle fiber hand spun yarn was prepared using Bageshwari Charkha. Prepared yarns were used in development of products using crochet technique. Total seven products namely earrings, necklace, anklet, dream catcher, wine bottle cover, wind chime and pot holder were developed. All the developed products were evaluated by 30 respondents on five point rating scale on novelty of design, colour combination, craftsmanship and overall appearance.Findings of the study revealedthat wine bottle cover obtainedwas given first rank followed by pot holder and dream catcher. Among all the developed products wind chime was the lowest rated product.Comprehensive effort has been made to improve the potential of environment friendly material for sustainable handicraft production. In this way products developed from Himalayan nettle yarn can be helpful for the rural hill population in providing sustainable source of income through commercialization of products.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Current status of boutiques in Dehradun and development of garment designs based on their product line
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-12) Bisht, Diksha; Shahnaz Jahan
    A boutique is a specialty store with a special interest customer. Since, 1960s anyone opening a shop dealing with women's wear has called it a boutique. But the closest approximation to the original definition is- an independently owned small fashion store selling original clothes and or accessories not available in the mass market. They rely on both garments manufactured in the own firm and ready to wear manufacturers but they do not purchase mass-produced and may have customized clothes. The present study was planned to help the proprietors of boutiques/ those willing to start their own enterprise or planning to work for a boutique. It will also provide different designs to break the monotony of the designs available in the present boutiques. It was done in two phases- survey, designing and construction of garments. Dehradun was purposively selected as the locale because of its easy accessibility by the researcher and being the largest, most populous and capital city of Uttarakhand. The survey was conducted in 45 registered boutiques to collect the information regarding the set-up, functioning, different departments and product line of the boutiques in Dehradun. It included interaction between the researcher and the respondents i.e. proprietors and employees to gather information through a self structured questionnaire cum interview schedule. The information gathered from each boutique was organized, tabulated and statistically analyzed. Total five different outfits were selected for the construction based on the product line in the maximum number of boutiques which included gown, one-piece dress, ready to wear saree, kurta with pants and lehenga-choli. A total of 25 sketches were prepared by hand which included five different designs of each outfit. After evaluation, one design from each type of outfit which scored the highest score/ rank was selected for the construction. Color selection was done by developing each designs using CAD Adobe Illustrator in five different colors according to fashion color trend forecasting for Spring/ Summer 2020. Finally, five different outfits were stitched by the researcher to see the overall appearance, cost and ease in manufacturing of the garments. Assessment of constructed garments was done on different parameters using a five point scale by the proprietors of 30 boutiques of Dehradun.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Optimization of dyeing process for silk fabric using Talaromyces purpurogenus fungal dye
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-02) Verma, Himani; Anita Rani
    Increased need of sustainable development in every industrial sector has diverted focus on promotion of alternative resources to chemicals currently in use. Hence, natural colourants have drawn attention of textile industry as a safe and green alternative to synthetic dyes. Plants and animals resources do not offer feasible solution owing to associated limitation, like loss of biodiversity and deforestation resulting in ecological imbalance. Microorganisms are thus, promising and potential alternatives for colouration of textiles in present times. Further, use of biopolymer and plasma along with mordant, offer ecofriendly solution to problems related to voluminous effluent release from textile industries. In present study coloured solution yielded from growth of T. purpurogenus on organic waste was used for dyeing of silk fabric. Box-Behnkon Design of Response Surface Methodology was used for optimization of dyeing and mordanting variables. Biopolymer and plasma treatment were also applied individually as well as in combination to improve colour properties of silk fabric. The optimized dyeing variables obtained for application of T. purpurogenus fungal dye on silk fabric were 5 pH, 80ºC dyeing temperature and 65 minutes dyeing time. Likewise optimized mordanting variables for pomegranate rind and alum were 5 and 0.2 g mordant concentration, 50 ºC and 50 ºC mordanting temperature and 30 minutes and 15 minutes mordanting time, respectively. The dyeing process had minimum effect on strength of fabric in case of mordanted, chitosan and plasma treated and dyed silk fabric. Colour strength improved in all dyed silk fabric samples except one mordanted with alum. Slight improvement was observed in light fastness of dyed silk fabric samples owing to mordanting and pre treatments but still it reached to level very poor to fair. All dyed fabric samples before and after application of treatment and their combinations exhibited very good to excellent wash fastness while rubbing fastness was found excellent. Improvement in UPF was observed only in case of pomegranate rind treated samples. Very little antimicrobial resistance was also observed in fabric samples treated with pomegranate rind. Thus T. purpurogenus fungal dye can be used for dyeing silk fabric using HTHP dyeing machine in shades of raddish brown.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Adaptation of jageshwar temple motifs for development of textile designs using sublimation transfer printing technique
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-10) Pant, Kalplata; Sakshi
    The famous Jageshwar Temple complex is situated at about thirty kilometres from main Almora city of Uttarakhand state. The temple is constructed with large stones which were carved. The carvings have designs of various postures of Lord Shiva and other Hindu deities. These designs of Jageshwar Temple could be damaged in future, so transferring them onto textile articles will preserve them. Motifs can be transferred on fabric with some modification and could be used as value addition onto the fabric. Among various techniques used for fabric enrichment, printing is most efficient technique of colour application and practiced in textile sector for product diversification and value addition. The present study has been carried out to develop new textile designs. In order to create designs, designs were collected from Jageshwar Temple. Motifs were selected according to their suitability for textile products. The selected motifs were adapted using CorelDRAW X8 software. The adapted designs were evaluated by thirty judges and five adapted designs were selected. Seven designs repeat arrangements were developed from each selected design and were evaluated by judges. One design arrangement from each design was selected and colour combinations were developed using Spring/Summer 2020 New York Fashion Week Colour Palette. Three colour combinations for each selected design were developed and four colours were selected for base fabric. Out of twelve colourways, one combination which has scored highest WMS was selected for printing. T shirt was prepared in present study. T shirts were prepared in medium size using sublimation printing technique. Selected design arrangement was printed in the front and its single motif was printed in the back side of T-shirt. Finally, T shirts were assessed on different parameters by eighty college going students including forty females and forty male students. Average of weighted mean score was calculated to draw comparison between the preferences of male and female respondents. It was revealed from results that all the designs were accepted. Female respondents preferred face design ornamented details like ear rings, necklace with coral pink base fabric whereas male respondents gave preference to full body design of Lord Shiva and Parvati with saffron base fabric colour.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Development of ready to use borders through embroidery and painting techniques using adapted designs inspired from engravings of Jageshwar temple
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-11) Agarwal, Khushi; Sakshi
    Borders are used as an effective trim in garments. Borders can be prepared by weaving, embroidery, printing and painting. The source of inspiration for the border designs can be floral, geometrical or the combination of motifs. Borders have limited designs. To add variety into borders one can introduce different motifs. One of the important source of inspiration for producing border is stone carved designs. Under the present study the border designs were collected from different frames of doors of Jageshwar Temple of Almora. Twenty border designs were collected out of which ten designs were selected for adaptation using CorelDraw X8. The adapted designs were assessed by a panel of 30 judges. Out of ten designs, five designs were selected for development of borders on the basis of highest weighted mean score. Contrasting colour scheme was used for colouring the selected borders with the help of CorelDrawX8. Twelve colour combinations of each border design, i.e., total 60 colour combinations were developed. Out of 60 colour combinations, five colour combinations were selected, one for each design. Ready to use borders were developed through machine and hand embroidery and hand painting technique. Machine embroidery stitches were selected on the basis of density and filling purpose. Hand embroidery stitches were selected on the basis of visual similarity with the stitches of machine embroidery. Total 15 borders were developed i.e., 3 each for one design. Costing of prepared ready to use borders was done. It was found that machine embroidered borders were cheap among all prepared borders. The developed borders were assessed by the 60 respondents comprising 30 college going girls and 30 housewives. The prepared borders were evaluated on different parameters namely aesthetic parameters and end-use parameters. It was revealed from results that all the designs were accepted. Design liked most by both the respondents for machine embroidered and hand embroidered border was floral in nature, embroidery was done with yellow, blue and orange colour. Design liked most in case of hand painted border was also floral in nature with colour combination of red, light blue and orange.