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ThesisItem Open Access Herbal Treated Antimicrobial Textiles for Medical Applications(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2017-06) Byadgi, Shameembanu A.; Kulloli, Sadhana D.ThesisItem Open Access Designing and Development of Hometech Products Utilizing Sunhemp and Okra Fibres(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2016-05) Vanishree S.; Mahale, GeetaThe present study on ‘Designing and development of hometech products utilizing sunhemp and okra fibre’ was carried out at the Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, Rural Home Science College, UAS Dharwad with the objectives to study the morphology of sunhemp and okra fibres, to assess the spinnability of sunhemp and okra fibre using suitable blend proportions, to determine the quality parameters of fibre, yarn and woven fabrics, to design and develop hometech products using woven fabrics and to estimate cost of production of designed hometech products. Sunhemp and okra fibre was extracted by tank retting method using sunhemp and okra stalks treated with urea and compost culture as retting treatment. Combined Scouring and bleaching was carried out to improve the properties of fibres. These fibres blended with BT-Cotton in different blend proportion and spun into yarn in the spinning section, DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalakaranji, Maharashtra. Further, woven in to fabric by utilizing sunhemp/cotton and okra/cotton blended yarn as weft and cotton yarn as warp. Quality parameters were assessed for fibre, yarn and fabric. Results indicated that urea treatment found to be better with respect to retting period, per cent extraction and quality characteristics. Processing treatment decreased the length, strength, fineness and elongation of sunhemp and okra fibre. However, fibres become more lighter in colour. On blending, sunhemp/cotton and okra/ cotton blended yarns exhibited better strength, elongation and lea strength whereas lower CSP, higher hairiness index and unevenness was observed compared to pure cotton yarns. Higher GSM, tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and thermal insulation value was observed in blended fabrics whereas, lower pilling resistance and drapabislity was noticed. Further, blended fabrics are more stiffer and thicker. Different hometech products like, a drapery, diwan set, table runner were designed and developed. Cost of developed products were calculated.ThesisItem Open Access Quality Assessment of Digital Printed Cotton and Viscose Fabrics(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2015-08) Uppinal, Spoorti V.; Mahale, GeetaThe present study on “Quality assessment of digital printed cotton and viscose fabrics” was carried out during 2012-2015 with the objectives to study the potentiality of CAD applications on design outputs, to assess the quality characteristics and image quality of digital printed cotton and viscose fabrics and finally estimate the cost of digital printing on both fabrics. Two self structured questionnaires were formulated where the first was administered to the thirty textile experts to select the twenty images from the hundred images of the four categories of designs viz., Embroidery, Painting, Tie-dye and Woven images. The second questionnaire was administered to thirty textile experts to assess the image quality of the digital print on both fabrics by visual analysis method. Twenty selected images were scanned and details of image files were recorded for further printing process. Five different solid pantone colours were selected to assess physical and colourfastness properties. The results were analyzed applying suitable statistical tests. Results revealed that printing process enhanced the cloth count of both fabric samples. Irrespective of fibre content, type of printed colours maximum shrinkage observed in weft direction than warp. However, warp way GSM was maximum than weft way. The removal of pretreatment paste during printing processes influenced the stiffness of the both samples. Control fabric samples had lower crease recovery angle than the print colours. The results of colourfastness property revealed that higher number of washes affects the colour strength of the printed samples. The maximum loss in colour strength was observed in wet rubbing, alkali media perspiration and damp sublimation. Almost all viscose printed samples gave excellent ratings to colourfastness properties. In subjective evaluation highest preference given to lotus motif of both Kantha and Phulkari embroideries, Mughal and Madhubani paintings, pleating and spot dyeing, block and small checks weave. The cost of digital printed cotton fabric per square was Rs 141.4/- and viscose Rs 131.54/-.ThesisItem Open Access WEAVING COMPUTERIZED NEGI MOTIFS IN TRADITIONAL LAKKUNDI SAREES(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2003) Vastrad, Jyothi V; Naik, Shailaja D"The present investigation entitled 'Weaving computerized negi motifs in traditional Lakkundi sarecs' was conducted during 2000-03. Totally 125 wage weavers and 8 master weavers from Lakkundi and Shigli villages of Gadag district were interviewed using self-structured questionnaire by personal interview method to collect the historical background and demographics of polycot saree weavers. PSP and GC Kala-2000 software was used to digitize thirteen commonly used kasuti motifs. Five sarecs were woven on the powerloom by incorporating kasuti motifs with jacquard mechanism. Fifty each rural and urban women expressed their acceptability for newly designed sarees. History revealed that contrast-bordered lungi resembling the polycot sarees was produced even before independence on throw shuttle pit loom at Lakkundi. Merchants from Prasiddhi handlooms, Bangalore during 1990's encouraged weaving polycot sarees with cone technique. Majority of the wage weavers belonged to middle age with secondary education belonged to nuclear families whereas, majority of master weavers followed joint family norms. Kuruhinashettys and Deuangas predominated weaver's community. Sarees 1, 2 and 4 were woven with digitized negi motifs, retaining traditionality. Sarees 3 and 5 were woven with elaborate pallav, to meet consumer demand, a revival over traditionality. The weavers produced 17 plain sarees per week. However, the rate of production o[ computerized saree was relatively low because of extra weft figuring that led to loom stoppage. Many of the rural consumers opined that the computerized elephant with howdah, deer creeper, lotus, lotus butta, diagonal birds creeper, gopuram and wheat spike-lotus resembled the hand-embroidered motifs. In general the consumers preferred sarees 1, 2, 3 and 4. The net profit earned on newly designed sarees was remarkably higher than the traditional. There is a need to train the local weavers to weave sarees with computerized motifs."ThesisItem Open Access DESIGNING TEXTILE MADE-UPS FROM AHIMSA SILK(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2004) Sanapapamma, K J; Naik, Shailaja DABSTRACT NOT AVAILABLEThesisItem Open Access Naturally Coloured Cotton Designer's Apparel: an Emerging Trend in Khadi World(UAS Dharwad, 2012) Namrata M.; Shailaja D. NaikThe present study on “Naturally coloured cotton designer’s apparel: an emerging trend in khadi world” was carried out with the objectives to explore the possibilities of designing and weaving variegated stripe and checks naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics; to assess the impact of special finishes on naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics; to design, develop and embellish the trendy khadi apparel and enumerate consumer’s acceptance and to calculate the cost of production of designer’s khadi apparel. Six types of designer’s khadi fabrics viz., white cotton (WC), naturally coloured cotton (NCC), pin stripe, medium stripe, small checks and medium checks were constructed and subjected to bio-desizing, biopolishing and silicon softener wash. On finishing, both WC and NCC yarns became finer with slight increase in cloth count. Further considerable reduction in bending length; improvement in crease recovery angle and better drapability of all the six fabrics was observed. Whereas, tensile strength and elongation reduced; and no considerable change in abrasion and pilling was observed. Except WC, all other fabrics were further taken for designing and construction of three garments with new concept of detachable components viz., ladies top with necklines and lower panel; gent’s shirt with cuff, collar and buttonstand and gent’s kurta with collar and buttonstand were produced. Then survey was conducted in Dharwad city with a sample consisting of each 120 adolescent boys and girls between 16-22 years and 60 Home scientists to identify the suitable surface embellishments on ladies and gents apparel. Accordingly, karnataka kasuti, machine embroidery and zardosi were planned on ladies top and karnataka kasuti and machine embroidery on gents shirt and kurta. Further, consumer acceptance of designer’s khadi apparel was enumerated on the similar sample with a same sample size and locale. Ladies top-cum-kurta and gents shirt were found to be most relevant for adolescents whereas gents kurtas for early adults. Hand embroidery on all the three apparels was relevant for a traditional wear. The cost of production of designer’s ladies and gents garments were much lower than the embellished ones with detachable garment components.
