Naturally Coloured Cotton Designer's Apparel: an Emerging Trend in Khadi World

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Date
2012
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UAS Dharwad
Abstract
The present study on “Naturally coloured cotton designer’s apparel: an emerging trend in khadi world” was carried out with the objectives to explore the possibilities of designing and weaving variegated stripe and checks naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics; to assess the impact of special finishes on naturally coloured cotton khadi fabrics; to design, develop and embellish the trendy khadi apparel and enumerate consumer’s acceptance and to calculate the cost of production of designer’s khadi apparel. Six types of designer’s khadi fabrics viz., white cotton (WC), naturally coloured cotton (NCC), pin stripe, medium stripe, small checks and medium checks were constructed and subjected to bio-desizing, biopolishing and silicon softener wash. On finishing, both WC and NCC yarns became finer with slight increase in cloth count. Further considerable reduction in bending length; improvement in crease recovery angle and better drapability of all the six fabrics was observed. Whereas, tensile strength and elongation reduced; and no considerable change in abrasion and pilling was observed. Except WC, all other fabrics were further taken for designing and construction of three garments with new concept of detachable components viz., ladies top with necklines and lower panel; gent’s shirt with cuff, collar and buttonstand and gent’s kurta with collar and buttonstand were produced. Then survey was conducted in Dharwad city with a sample consisting of each 120 adolescent boys and girls between 16-22 years and 60 Home scientists to identify the suitable surface embellishments on ladies and gents apparel. Accordingly, karnataka kasuti, machine embroidery and zardosi were planned on ladies top and karnataka kasuti and machine embroidery on gents shirt and kurta. Further, consumer acceptance of designer’s khadi apparel was enumerated on the similar sample with a same sample size and locale. Ladies top-cum-kurta and gents shirt were found to be most relevant for adolescents whereas gents kurtas for early adults. Hand embroidery on all the three apparels was relevant for a traditional wear. The cost of production of designer’s ladies and gents garments were much lower than the embellished ones with detachable garment components.
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