WEAVING COMPUTERIZED NEGI MOTIFS IN TRADITIONAL LAKKUNDI SAREES
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Date
2003
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University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad
Abstract
"The present investigation entitled 'Weaving computerized negi
motifs in traditional Lakkundi sarecs' was conducted during 2000-03.
Totally 125 wage weavers and 8 master weavers from Lakkundi and
Shigli villages of Gadag district were interviewed using self-structured
questionnaire by personal interview method to collect the historical
background and demographics of polycot saree weavers. PSP and GC
Kala-2000 software was used to digitize thirteen commonly used kasuti
motifs. Five sarecs were woven on the powerloom by incorporating
kasuti motifs with jacquard mechanism. Fifty each rural and urban
women expressed their acceptability for newly designed sarees. History
revealed that contrast-bordered lungi resembling the polycot sarees was
produced even before independence on throw shuttle pit loom at
Lakkundi. Merchants from Prasiddhi handlooms, Bangalore during
1990's encouraged weaving polycot sarees with cone technique. Majority
of the wage weavers belonged to middle age with secondary education
belonged to nuclear families whereas, majority of master weavers
followed joint family norms. Kuruhinashettys and Deuangas
predominated weaver's community. Sarees 1, 2 and 4 were woven with
digitized negi motifs, retaining traditionality. Sarees 3 and 5 were woven with elaborate pallav, to meet consumer demand, a revival over
traditionality. The weavers produced 17 plain sarees per week. However,
the rate of production o[ computerized saree was relatively low because
of extra weft figuring that led to loom stoppage. Many of the rural
consumers opined that the computerized elephant with howdah, deer
creeper, lotus, lotus butta, diagonal birds creeper, gopuram and wheat
spike-lotus resembled the hand-embroidered motifs. In general the
consumers preferred sarees 1, 2, 3 and 4. The net profit earned on newly
designed sarees was remarkably higher than the traditional. There is a
need to train the local weavers to weave sarees with computerized
motifs."
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No. of references 72