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ThesisItem Open Access Awareness, attitude and behaviour towards sustainable apparel consumption among youth of North India(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar, District Udham Singh Nagar, Uttarakhand. PIN - 263145, 2022-10) Renu; Anita RaniThe textile and apparel industry has significant role in Indian economy. The total revenue from the textile and apparel industry contributes the most important part in GDP. Besides this positive part, it has the dirty secrets that have negative impact on environment and society. The major players in the importance of sustainability are the manufacturer, retailer, government rules /regulations and consumers. As consumers we consume the goods and services and only focus on the quality, price and aesthetic attributes of the goods and do not think about the life-cycle process of a product. Hence, the consumers should have awareness about the sensitive issues of environment and society emerging due to regarding the apparel consumption. In present scenario, the most active population is youth which has more disposable income at hands. They follow the latest fashion trends and most of the innovations in apparel and fashion industry. So, youth can make change by adapting the sustainable apparel consumption behaviour and products. The study was therefore, planned to find out the awareness level, attitude, and behaviour towards sustainable apparel consumption among the youth of North India. Twenty male and 20 female postgraduate students were selected randomly from 7 SAUs located in 5 states of North India totalling to 280 postgraduate students. The research study was exploratory in nature wherein data was collected through survey method using two questionnaires and an attitude scale. Maximum respondents were in the age group 20-27 years, practiced Hindu religion and were from College of Agriculture. More than half of the respondents belonged to the families that had more than Rs. 5 lakh annual income and had 0-2 siblings. The awareness level of majority of postgraduate students from different universities except CCSHAU, Hisar was found high. The maximum awareness was found on sustainable practices of apparel consumption while least awareness was for the eco labels on apparels. The attitude of the postgraduate students was also found highly positive towards sustainable apparel consumption. Further, significant difference was also found between male and female students for awareness level as well attitude towards sustainable apparel consumption aspects. The female respondents were more aware about aspects of sustainability in apparel consumption and production comparatively. The male respondents held much positive (favourable) attitude as compared to the female respondents towards the different domains of attitude in sustainable apparel consumption. Despite high level of awareness and strongly positive attitude, the behaviour was not found sustainable to that extent. The awareness, attitude and behaviour of respondents was found to be affected by independent factors viz., gender, source of finance, annual family income, type of family and number of siblings.ThesisItem Open Access Process optimization for dyeing of Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) fibres with madder (Rubia cordifolia) dye and product development(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-02) Rashmi Bala; Gahlot, ManishaThe natural fibres and natural dyes are known for their different potential uses and their beneficial impact on environment and society as a whole.The present research was carried out for aqueous extraction of the natural dye through conventional technique and optimization of dyeing parameters for Himalayan nettle fibres. In the present study value addition of nettle fiber was done throughdyeing and products were developed using crochet technique. Four commercially available dye sources, namely Madder (Rubia cordifolia), Marigold (Tagetes erecta), Kamala (Mallotus philippinenis) and Catechu (Acecia catechu) were taken and dyes extracted from these were applied on nettle fibre. Madder dye was selected on the basis of colour strength. Optimization of dyeing variables of Madder dye was done by using Box and Behnken Design of RSM. Final optimized fiber dyeing was carried out using 3% dye material concentration, 1:15 M:L ratio and 45 minutes dyeing time. For mordanting of nettle fibre total three mordant one natural (gallnut extract) and two synthetic (Ferrous Sulphate and alum) were taken.Mordanting method and mordant concentration was optimized on the basis of colour strength (K/S).In case of gallnut extract, simultaneous mordanting method and 5 percent concentration were optimized. In case of Ferrous sulphate and alum pre mordanting method was optimized. Optimized mordant concentration was 0.75% for Ferrous sulphate and 7% for alum. Final dyed and mordanted nettle fibres were tested for light, wash and rubbing fastness properties and samples showed good results of washing and very good results for light fastness, whereas excellent results were observed in case ofthe rubbing fastness. After the dyeing of the nettle fiber hand spun yarn was prepared using Bageshwari Charkha. Prepared yarns were used in development of products using crochet technique. Total seven products namely earrings, necklace, anklet, dream catcher, wine bottle cover, wind chime and pot holder were developed. All the developed products were evaluated by 30 respondents on five point rating scale on novelty of design, colour combination, craftsmanship and overall appearance.Findings of the study revealedthat wine bottle cover obtainedwas given first rank followed by pot holder and dream catcher. Among all the developed products wind chime was the lowest rated product.Comprehensive effort has been made to improve the potential of environment friendly material for sustainable handicraft production. In this way products developed from Himalayan nettle yarn can be helpful for the rural hill population in providing sustainable source of income through commercialization of products.ThesisItem Open Access Current status of boutiques in Dehradun and development of garment designs based on their product line(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-12) Bisht, Diksha; Shahnaz JahanA boutique is a specialty store with a special interest customer. Since, 1960s anyone opening a shop dealing with women's wear has called it a boutique. But the closest approximation to the original definition is- an independently owned small fashion store selling original clothes and or accessories not available in the mass market. They rely on both garments manufactured in the own firm and ready to wear manufacturers but they do not purchase mass-produced and may have customized clothes. The present study was planned to help the proprietors of boutiques/ those willing to start their own enterprise or planning to work for a boutique. It will also provide different designs to break the monotony of the designs available in the present boutiques. It was done in two phases- survey, designing and construction of garments. Dehradun was purposively selected as the locale because of its easy accessibility by the researcher and being the largest, most populous and capital city of Uttarakhand. The survey was conducted in 45 registered boutiques to collect the information regarding the set-up, functioning, different departments and product line of the boutiques in Dehradun. It included interaction between the researcher and the respondents i.e. proprietors and employees to gather information through a self structured questionnaire cum interview schedule. The information gathered from each boutique was organized, tabulated and statistically analyzed. Total five different outfits were selected for the construction based on the product line in the maximum number of boutiques which included gown, one-piece dress, ready to wear saree, kurta with pants and lehenga-choli. A total of 25 sketches were prepared by hand which included five different designs of each outfit. After evaluation, one design from each type of outfit which scored the highest score/ rank was selected for the construction. Color selection was done by developing each designs using CAD Adobe Illustrator in five different colors according to fashion color trend forecasting for Spring/ Summer 2020. Finally, five different outfits were stitched by the researcher to see the overall appearance, cost and ease in manufacturing of the garments. Assessment of constructed garments was done on different parameters using a five point scale by the proprietors of 30 boutiques of Dehradun.ThesisItem Open Access Adaptation of jageshwar temple motifs for development of textile designs using sublimation transfer printing technique(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-10) Pant, Kalplata; SakshiThe famous Jageshwar Temple complex is situated at about thirty kilometres from main Almora city of Uttarakhand state. The temple is constructed with large stones which were carved. The carvings have designs of various postures of Lord Shiva and other Hindu deities. These designs of Jageshwar Temple could be damaged in future, so transferring them onto textile articles will preserve them. Motifs can be transferred on fabric with some modification and could be used as value addition onto the fabric. Among various techniques used for fabric enrichment, printing is most efficient technique of colour application and practiced in textile sector for product diversification and value addition. The present study has been carried out to develop new textile designs. In order to create designs, designs were collected from Jageshwar Temple. Motifs were selected according to their suitability for textile products. The selected motifs were adapted using CorelDRAW X8 software. The adapted designs were evaluated by thirty judges and five adapted designs were selected. Seven designs repeat arrangements were developed from each selected design and were evaluated by judges. One design arrangement from each design was selected and colour combinations were developed using Spring/Summer 2020 New York Fashion Week Colour Palette. Three colour combinations for each selected design were developed and four colours were selected for base fabric. Out of twelve colourways, one combination which has scored highest WMS was selected for printing. T shirt was prepared in present study. T shirts were prepared in medium size using sublimation printing technique. Selected design arrangement was printed in the front and its single motif was printed in the back side of T-shirt. Finally, T shirts were assessed on different parameters by eighty college going students including forty females and forty male students. Average of weighted mean score was calculated to draw comparison between the preferences of male and female respondents. It was revealed from results that all the designs were accepted. Female respondents preferred face design ornamented details like ear rings, necklace with coral pink base fabric whereas male respondents gave preference to full body design of Lord Shiva and Parvati with saffron base fabric colour.ThesisItem Open Access Development of ready to use borders through embroidery and painting techniques using adapted designs inspired from engravings of Jageshwar temple(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-11) Agarwal, Khushi; SakshiBorders are used as an effective trim in garments. Borders can be prepared by weaving, embroidery, printing and painting. The source of inspiration for the border designs can be floral, geometrical or the combination of motifs. Borders have limited designs. To add variety into borders one can introduce different motifs. One of the important source of inspiration for producing border is stone carved designs. Under the present study the border designs were collected from different frames of doors of Jageshwar Temple of Almora. Twenty border designs were collected out of which ten designs were selected for adaptation using CorelDraw X8. The adapted designs were assessed by a panel of 30 judges. Out of ten designs, five designs were selected for development of borders on the basis of highest weighted mean score. Contrasting colour scheme was used for colouring the selected borders with the help of CorelDrawX8. Twelve colour combinations of each border design, i.e., total 60 colour combinations were developed. Out of 60 colour combinations, five colour combinations were selected, one for each design. Ready to use borders were developed through machine and hand embroidery and hand painting technique. Machine embroidery stitches were selected on the basis of density and filling purpose. Hand embroidery stitches were selected on the basis of visual similarity with the stitches of machine embroidery. Total 15 borders were developed i.e., 3 each for one design. Costing of prepared ready to use borders was done. It was found that machine embroidered borders were cheap among all prepared borders. The developed borders were assessed by the 60 respondents comprising 30 college going girls and 30 housewives. The prepared borders were evaluated on different parameters namely aesthetic parameters and end-use parameters. It was revealed from results that all the designs were accepted. Design liked most by both the respondents for machine embroidered and hand embroidered border was floral in nature, embroidery was done with yellow, blue and orange colour. Design liked most in case of hand painted border was also floral in nature with colour combination of red, light blue and orange.ThesisItem Open Access Present status of zari work units in Bareilly (Uttar Pradesh)(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-08) Kohli, Tanuja; Anita RaniIndia is known for the finest textile traditions in the world with respect to dyeing, weaving and surface embellishment. Hand embroidery is one form among textile handicrafts of India. Zardozi is a famous and exquisite embroidery of Uttar Pradesh. In this craft, a uniform wire, traditionally made of fine gold or silver, was used to embroider traditional garments. Bareilly city of Uttar Pradesh has been known for its exquisite zardozi work. Different departments of Central & and State Government support zari work units located in Bareilly. Besides the support given by Indian government through schemes, zari embroidery units of Bareilly are still facing different problems and constraints within the cluster. Hence, present study was conducted to explore the present profile of zari units located in Bareilly; to study the Govt. schemes implemented on zari units and to identify the problems faced by the zari units. A self-structured interview schedule was formulated as tool in data collection from 30 registered as well as 30 non-registered zari units operational in Bareilly selected through cluster and snow ball technique sampling. The data was collected from primary (the owner and worker from each selected unit) and secondary sources (published reports of government). The results revealed significant difference between characteristics of registered and nonregistered units namely infrastructure, number of workers, their training, production level and awareness about different government schemes. But two types of units were found similar in terms of ownership of business and nature of property, gender and skill of workers, mode of payment and range of wages of workers, duration of work per day, type of raw material used for work, method of division of work, types of designs used in zari work, method of application of zari, steps used in finishing of products, infrastructure problems faced by units and manufacturing problems. The market area and product range were large of registered units, whereas due to low awareness and absence from government record, the production of non-registered units had limited market area and less product range. Also, despite of being listed under government organizations, very few benefits were being availed by registered zari units. Both registered and non-registered zari units faced threats and challenges like non labelling of product, lack of quality control, paucity of innovation in designs and production techniques, absence of market information, workers wages were low as profit share is kept by agents, lack of access to credit and competition from machine made products. This implies that both types of units needed assistance in the field for up-gradation of zari craft of Bareilly. As the art of zari has been known from Vedic times and associated with the rich and glorious history of India therefore it is important to restrain this craft from extinction. The issues and challenges faced by the units need effective implementation of appropriate policy measures. Further associating developmental activities with existing schemes, organization of awareness drive and trainings for zari units will be helpful in drawing them into mainstream of handicraft sector.ThesisItem Open Access Process optimization for dyeing silk fabric with dye extracted from Pyrus pashia (Wild Himalayan Pear) leaves(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-02) Manisha Kumari; Gahlot, ManishaPyrus pashia abundantly found across the Himalayas and also falls in the category of such kind of natural resources which are not economically beneficial and can be used to produce dye. In this study the leaves of Pyrus pashia were used to produce colour on silk fabric. Therefore present research work was carried out with the objectives to optimize extraction process for natural dye extracted from the leaves of Pyrus pashia, to optimize the dyeing and mordanting parameters for Pyrus pashia dye on silk fabric, to characterize the Pyrus pashia leaf dye using phytochemical analysis and FT-IR spectroscopy and to test the UPF and colour fastness properties of dyed silk fabric. Box-Behnken Design (RSM) was used for optimization of dyeing variables. Dye extraction medium, temperature and time were the constant parameters of the study. The independent variables of the study were dye material concentration, dyeing temperature and time, their interactive effects were assessed on dependent variables or responses like colour strength, warp and weft strength of dyed fabric, fastness to washing and rubbing. The optimized dyeing variables obtained for application of Pyrus pashia leaf dye extract on silk fabric were 5% (w/v) dye material concentration, 70°C dyeing temperature and 45 minutes dyeing time. Two natural (myrobalan and pomegranate rind) and two synthetic mordants (ferrous sulphate and alum) were used in the study. Mordanting variables like mordanting method, mordant concentration and mordanting time were optimized on the basis of higher colour strength. The overall colour fastness of control sample (dyed) was good. In case of washing, rubbing, acidic perspiration and dry cleaning the rating was ranged from slight colour change and staining (4) to negligible change in colour and staining (5). Moreover the fastness rating of alkaline perspiration was ranged from noticeable colour change (3-4) to slight to negligible colour change (4-5) and for light it was found in very good (6) range. The fastness rating was more or less remained same after mordanting with natural and synthetic mordants. Good UPF value was also reported after dyeing with Pyrus pashia leaf extract. Different phytochemicals such as terepenoids, glycoside, quinines, coumarins, anthocyanins, phenols and tannin were reported in the leaf extract of Pyrus pashia. The FT-IR spectroscopy provided evidences that IR spectrum of dye, undyed silk and dyed silk exhibited variation in their intensity and position of their absorption band. The optimized dyeing process was found to be environmentally safe because no harmful chemicals were used. Thus, optimized dyeing recipe can be recommended for use in small scaleThesisItem Open Access Preparation of handloom fabrics from recycled cotton and polyester yarns and their quality assessment(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-02) Alexander, Tausi Honorata; SakshiThe textile production is not something can be limited in this lifestyle, any production is always associated with wastes. Waste disposal is one of the most serious economical and environmental problems the society has to face. Both waste incineration and waste dumping in landfills have negative impacts. Recycling is the most beneficial way of dealing with waste both environmentally and economically. As one of the reason this study joined the ecological movement toward material sustainable through recycling. In this study, recycled cotton yarns of count 7,8 and 9 Nec, recycled polyester yarns of 18 Nec and recycled polyester-cotton blended yarn of 20 Nec were used and their physical properties were assessed, i.e. tensile strength, unevenness and yarn weight. The purpose of this study was to produce union recycled fabric on handloom and assess their physical properties. The recycled polyester yarn was used in warp direction for all five woven fabrics. The relationships between fabrics results i.e. fabric count, fabric weight, fabric thickness, drape coefficient, abrasion resistance, pilling resistance, tensile strength, bending length, crease recovery, wettability, dimensional stability and air permeability were assessed and compared with each other statistically using ANOVA and according to the best and worst properties of woven fabric samples the end uses were suggested.
