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20213
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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × End date: 2021 × Start date: 2021 × Thesis Type: Ph.D ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Development of size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand and construction of designed khadi kurties
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-07) Gayatri; Goel, Alka
    Khadi is hand spun and hand woven fabric. Thus, it’s known for its unique texture and comfortable feel. It is general observation that readymade khadi garments are unfashionable. Therefore, these are not preferred by young population for their own clothing. Moreover fitting of khadi garments is also not approved due to unavailability of size charts. Present study was carried out to develop size chart and design khadi kurties. In this study, three surveys were conducted, first one to collect information related to respondent’s awareness about khadi, buying practices and preferences for readymade kurties, second survey was to collect anthropometric measurements and third survey was to know consumers preference for readymade khadi kurties. Sample size for I and III survey was 100 and that of III survey was 1000. Respondents (21-31years) were selected from two geographical region viz., GBPUA&T, Pantnagar (1000 m. Above MSL) and DSB Campus, Kumaun University (1000-2500 m. Above MSL), Nainital of Uttarakhand. Anthropometric measurements were taken as per ISO 8559:1989 (En) standard. Size chart were developed based on anthropometric measurements and were compared with national and international brands. Second part of research was designing of kurties in which 32 kurties (16 A-line & 16 flared) were designed using different constructional features using Jindex CAD software. Designed kurties were evaluated by panel of judges and out of which 5 kurties each were selected based on average WMS. Block and machine embroidered motifs arrangements were done separately on selected kurties. Total 60 designs arrangements were developed which included 30 designs each for block and machine embroidery motif. Out of this, total 20 designs were selected for development on fabric. Out of 20 designs 5 designs each were of A-line kurti with block printing and machine embroidered and 5 designs each were of flared kurties with block printing and machine embroidery. Constructed designs were evaluated by target consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Obtained data was subjected to statistical analysis. Result of first survey indicates that respondents were aware about khadi but were not using it because lack of fit and trendy/ appealing designs. Size chart was developed by conducting an anthropometric survey as per ISO 8559: 1989 (en) of 1000 females (21-31 years) from two geographical regions of Uttarakhand i.e., hill (1000-2500 m. altitude) and foot hill or plain (below 1000 m. altitude) by equal stratified sampling technique. It was observed that all collected measurements were normally distributed in the second survey. Vertical and horizontal measurements showed positive correlation with height and weight. Variation in the maximum body measurements (cm) of females (21-31 years) of both regions was found to be highly significant means there is variation in body measurements of females living in two different geographical regions. Then, based on percentile approach, the size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand was developed with the five size codes ‘S’, ‘M’, ‘L’, ‘XL’, and ‘XXL’. Taking the most preferred constructional feature of kurties obtained from III survey, designing and constructional of kurti was done. Designed and constructed kurties were well accepted and appreciated by target group and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Cost estimation was also accepted by the consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Delignification of Dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata) fibres for value addition with blending and development of union fabric
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-02) Bhatt, Pooja; Anita Rani
    The natural fibres have dominated and coexisted with synthetic fibres in textile industry for long period of time. The alarming environmental concerns with increased used of synthetic fibres shifted research interest towards resources of natural and lignocellulosic fibres. The bast fibres have provided an opportunity to lead towards high quality textile market with economic and environmental benefits. Sesbania aculeata locally known as dhaincha has abundant possibilities in textile sector. It is only used for green manuring in Tarai region of Uttarakhand to enrich soil. The coarse nature and high lignin content limits use of dhaincha fibres in textile sector. Therefore, present study was planned to delignify dhaincha fibres to increase softness; spin yarns through blending with cotton and bamboo fibres and to prepare union fabrics from blended yarns. The dhaincha fibres were extracted using stagnant water retting method for 15 days. The variables for delignification i.e., acetic acid concentration, sodium chlorite concentration, sodium hydroxide concentration and sodium hydroxide treatment time were optimized using Box Behnken Design of RSM. The effect of independent variables on dhaincha fibres after delignification treatment was observed on lignin content, tenacity, moisture regain and whiteness index of fibres. The dhaincha fibres were delignified in bulk using optimized recipe for delignification treatment. The physical properties of fibres obtained after retting and delignification treatment were assessed to observe effect of delignification on properties of fibres. The delignified dhaincha fibres were blended with cotton and bamboo fibres in two ratios, 30:70 and 40:60 to develop blended yarns on computerized Trytex Rotor Spinning Machine. The union fabrics were prepared from the blended yarns in weft and cotton and bamboo yarns as warp respectively on handloom using plain weave. The developed yarn and fabric samples were tested for various physical and functional properties. The findings of study revealed that delignification treatment enhanced the softness and whiteness index of dhaincha fibres thereby, could increase economic viability and utility of the plant. The SEM images showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and impurities and XRD analysis revealed decrease in crystallinity index of dhaincha fibres and increased amorphous regions in fibres after delignification. FTIR spectroscopy showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and pectin to some extent after delignification. Rotor spun blended yarns were of low count, strength and yarn twist. Fabric properties were found to be affected by blending of dhaincha with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios. Blending increased thickness and weight in case of both dhaincha:cotton and dhaincha:bamboo woven union fabric samples. The union fabric samples exhibited good air permeability and wettability after blending of dhaincha fibres with cotton and bamboo. Tensile and tearing strength were found good in weft direction of prepared woven fabric samples due to high fabric count in weft direction. All union fabric samples exhibited low crease recovery and bending length than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. Thus, delignified dhaincha fibres and union fabrics developed from dhaincha, cotton and bamboo would offer diversified textile and might widen scope of use of plant for different value added products.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Documentation of Naqquashi Nirmal Arts of Telangana and textile product development through hand painting
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-01) Challa, Lakshmi; Gahlot, Manisha
    Telangana state is considered as home for many of the handicrafts and handloom wonders of Indian textiles. The present study was a descriptive, exploratory and product development research devised to produce different hand painted textiles using Nirmal art designs. The objectives were to document the traditional paintings of the Nirmal arts, their evolution and developmental aspects, to carry out the design development process to develop a range of textile products, to assess the consumer and market acceptance of the developed products. The primarily available sources for documentation were Nirmal artists. Inferential approach was used to explore the Nirmal art in different contexts. The artefacts made under the umbrella of Nirmal arts included toys, paintings and furniture. Detailed research on the survival journey of Nirmal painting from tradition to innovation along the historic timeline was presented. The present study focused on the painting sector of Nirmal arts. The base used was derived from wood of Ponniki tree (Givotia rottleriformis). The colours used were natural pigments derived from herbs, vegetables, fruits and mineral deposits. The distinguishing feature of the Nirmal art was the Naqquashi work. It refers to the tracing process used for design. It was done with the help of perforated muslin fabric and chalk powder. The traced design was then painted with the tempera technique using pigment colours. The choice of the pigment was based on the season along with type, nature and source of the pigment. The themes used were drawn from ancient literary and folk traditions. The products made included portraits, wall panels, screen partitions, etc. Ten primary and ancillary motifs were selected from the collected Nirmal traditional paintings for adaptation process. The motifs were digitized by using CorelDraw Graphics Suite 2019 and Adobe Photoshop 7.0. Design arrangements were made using selected primary and ancillary motif combinations for each of the three products. Selected design arrangements were used for product development. Nine products were developed that included three of each silk sarees, silk stoles and cotton wall decorations using hand painting technique with natural pigments. These were evaluated by panel of subject experts, prospective consumers, fashion designers, fashion business experts and Nirmal artists. The respondents highly appreciated the developed hand painted products. It can be inferred that the saree 1 created by using the dancing couple and ambari was highly preferred by the subject experts, consumers and the retailers. The stole (Matsya Kanya and the cash bag) was given the first rank by subject experts, consumers. Wall decoration (Apsara on the veena with the floral twines) was given first rank by consumers and retailers in terms of different parameters like aesthetic appearance, the base fabric used and the design arrangements. There exists an ample scope for design, product development and commercialization prospects for the Nirmal arts in textiles.