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ThesisItem Open Access Optimization of dyeing conditions for wool and silk fabrics using dyes extracted from Rumex nepalensis and Girardinia diversifolia roots(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-04) Bhandari, Babita; Anita RaniColouring the textiles with dyes has been an ancient craft known to mankind around the world. Present day environmental conditions compel human beings to remain covered with textiles processed through green technology for protection against effects of climate change. Hence natural dyes’ use in textile colouration sector has increased. Exploiting natural sources of dyes may create undesirable burden on environment. So in this study, weed plants had been explored for their dyeability. Weeds grow faster and absorb nutrients more efficiently and thus limiting their availability to crop plants. In this study, two sources i.e. Rumex nepalensis and Girardinia diversifolia which are abundantly available as weeds in hilly regions of Uttarakhand were used for dyeing of silk and wool fabrics. Optimization of dyeing conditions and effect of mordants on colour strength and fastness properties were assessed. Box-Behnken Design of Response Surface Methodology was used for optimization of dyeing variables for application of both dyes on silk and wool fabrics. The optimized dyeing variables obtained for application of R. nepalensis on silk fabric were 1.12% w/v dye concentration, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 81.599 minutes dyeing time whereas in case of wool optimized dyeing variables were 0.992 % w/v dye concentration, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 76.515 minutes dyeing time. In case of G. diversifolia,2.91% w/v dye, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 90 minutes dyeing time was found optimum for dyeing of silk fabric and dye concentration of 2.62 % w/v, dyeing temperature of 90ºC and dyeing time of 30 minutes were found to be optimum for dyeing of wool fabric. Mordanting method and concentrations of selected natural (amla, pomegranate peel and harad) as well as synthetic mordants (alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate) were optimized on the basis of colour strength and wash fastness. The colourfastness properties of dyed silk and wool fabric samples improved after mordanting with both types of mordants in case of two dyes used in the study. Application of both dyes and mordants on silk and wool fabrics improved the UPF and antimicrobial properties when compared with their control samples. Tensile strength and elongation of mordanted dyed fabrics was significantly affected from undyed fabrics but not from dyed fabrics. Residues of few heavy metals were found on the dyed fabrics but those were present within permissible limit. Since no chemicals are used at any stage of dyeing, this study can be useful for small scale dyers who have no access to effluent treatment facility and generated wastewater can be safely discharged into the environment.ThesisItem Open Access Utilization of oak tasar silk waste through blending with acrylic fibers for development of yarns and woven fabrics(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-03) Lakhchaura, Pallavi; Gahlot, ManishaThe present study was planned to see the possibility of blending of oak tasar silk waste and acrylic blended fibres to prepare yarns and woven fabrics. Blending and spinning of fibres were done on cotton spinning system. Five blend ratios (100:0, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 0:100 Oak tasar waste: Acrylic) were prepared at NITRA, Ghaziabad on ring spinning. Their physical properties and imperfection were evaluated. Ten fabric samples were woven from developed yarns on handloom out of which four were blended fabrics with plain weave and four with twill weave. Two were union fabrics each with plain and twill weave in which 100 % acrylic yarn was used as warp and 100 % oak tasar silk yarn was used as weft. The physical (cover factor, cloth cover, fabric weight, fabric thickness, crease recovery angle, bending length, flexural rigidity, drape coefficient, abrasion resistance, pilling, tensile strength, elongation at break and dimension change) and comfort (thermal insulation value, clo, Q-max, air permeability, water vapour transport rate, water absorption, vertical wicking and horizontal wicking) properties were assessed and statistically analyzed using post hoc tukey test and paired t- test. The tenacity values of oak tasar silk and acrylic fibre were comparable. Acrylic fibres were finer as compared to oak tasar fibres. Elongation percent of acrylic fibre was higher as compared to oak tasar fibre. Yarn count of the developed yarns was ranged from medium to fine i.e. 22 Ne to 28 Ne. The physical properties, unevenness and imperfection of blended yarn were improved with the addition of acrylic fibres with oak tasar silk in the blend. Light weight plain weave and twill weave fabrics of oak tasar silk and acrylic blended yarns were developed among them the twill weave fabrics had higher cloth cover, fabric weight and thickness as compared to plain weave fabrics. Most of the physical properties of fabrics were improved with the addition of acrylic fibre in the blend for both plain and twill weaves. Comfort properties like Q-max, air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal insulation and clo value were found to be increased with increasing acrylic content in the fabric. Most of the comfort properties of different blended and union fabrics were more or less close to each other for both plain and twill weaves. These fabrics may be used for light winter wear clothing and apparels as they were light in weight with clo value comparable to sweater.ThesisItem Open Access Documentation of selected Indian Textile Museums, development of finishes for textile conservation & designing of display showcases(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-08) Singh, Pooja; Goel, AlkaUnder present research status of textile artifacts and prevailing conservation practices in the selected Indian textile museums were documented, finish suitable for conservation of textiles was developed and designs of showcases for impressive display of textiles in museums were created. Twenty eight Indian textile museums were selected for survey. The details of artifacts collection and conservation practices followed by the museums to protect the textile antiquities from deterioration were noted. Survey results revealed that edible sources such as black pepper and clove were used to conserve the textiles in the museums. So, an economical antimicrobial finish extracted from plant source was developed, it will also help in saving edible sources. To develop the antimicrobial finish efficacy of the methanolic extracts of seven plants were tested against Gram Positive, Gram Negative and fungus by Agar Well Diffusion Method for bacteria and Food Poison Method for fungus. Methanolic extract of Khinna (Falconeria insignis) was selected for casement fabric application on the basis of maximum zone of inhibition exhibited against the test microbes. Conditions for applying the plant extract on the fabric were optimized on the basis of the bacterial resistance efficacy of the variables tested by Box-Behnken Design software. Both bacteria and fungus showed highest bacterial and fungal resistance for nine percent of plant extract whereas, four percent concentration of citric acid resulted in lowest bacterial zone of inhibition was observed at 30 minutes of treatment time. The treated fabrics were dried and were tested for physical properties. It was concluded that methanolic extract of Falconeria insignis leaves are safe and economical to provide antimicrobial protection on casement fabric, which may be used as base fabric for placement of artifacts in the museums. Designing of display boards for effective showcasing of the product as well as their conservation process to safeguard the textiles. In order to design display showcases the artefacts displayed in the museums were categorized in twelve categories Total sixty designs of showcases were prepared using Photoshop software along with their dimensions, recommended material for construction of particular showcase and estimated cost was also calculated. The prepared designs of showcases were got evaluated by the conservators and curators of five museums surveyed.ThesisItem Open Access Adaptation of decorative designs of Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) for screen printing on kurtis(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-08) Nandini; SakshiFatehpur Sikri, Agra is one of the famous place in India, where monuments were built by Mughals. It was capital of Emperor Akbar from 1571 to 1585 AD. Many monuments are located in Fatehpur Sikri and Jama Masjid is one of them. Jama Masjid was constructed with redstone. Decorative designs were carved on redstone and wooden structure of Jama Masjid. These decorative designs can be used for textile designing. Therefore, present study was undertaken to document these designs and to adapt the designs to used on kurtis through screen printing. Under the present study the decorative designs were collected from different sections of Jama Masjid and were documented. Documented designs were categorized into broad border, narrow border, buti, central designs and neckline designs. Seven designs were selected from each category thus making the total of 35 designs for adaptation using CorelDRAW X7. The adapted designs were assessed by a panel of 30 judges. Out of thirty five designs, fifteen designs were selected on the basis of highest weighted mean score. Garment selected for printing of designs was kurti as it is a trendy Indian upper garment which never goes out of fashion. Then, twenty line design patterns were prepared on the basis of arrangement of different categories of motifs/designs on kurtis. Five line design patterns were selected based on highest weighted mean scores. Forty two design arrangements were prepared using selected adapted designs based on selected line design patterns, out of which five design arrangements were selected based on assessment made by 30 judges. Complementary colour scheme was used for colouring of selected design arrangements on kurtis. Cream colour cotton fabric was printed using selected design arrangements with the help of screen printing technique. The printed kurtis were assessed. The kurtis were assessed on different parameters namely appropriateness of motifs/designs according to the product, placement of motifs/designs arrangement on kurtis, suitability of colours used for printing with the background colour of fabric, quality of printing, size of motifs/designs used and overall appearance. All the kurtis were highly appreciated by the consumers which is evident from high ratings obtained in weighted mean score. It can be concluded from present study that the adaptation of decorative designs of Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) through screen printing technique on kurtis added a new dimension in the field of designing and helped in creating the design pool.ThesisItem Open Access Buying behaviour and attitude of students towards branded apparels and accessories of technical institutes located in Delhi and Pantnagar(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2018-08) Pattanayak, Abhipsa; SakshiThe strong sense of individuality that consumers possess today when coupled with the concept of globalization has led to the popularization of the concept of brands in India which was not well established a few decades back. The availability of more number of brands has resulted in consumers having a wide variety to choose from. A number of factors along with the demographics of the consumers and the previous interactions with any brand form the basis for their preference towards it. The present study was planned to find out the existing trends in the wardrobes, purchasing practice and attitude among students of technical institutes located in metro and non-metro areas towards branded apparels and accessories. A questionnaire-cum-interview schedule was formulated to obtain information regarding the existing wardrobe, purchasing practice and attitudes of respondents towards branded apparels and accessories. The survey method was used to collect information from male and female students pursuing undergraduate and postgraduate courses of engineering from College of Technology, G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar, Udham Singh Nagar, Uttarakhand and Delhi Technological University, Shahbad Daulatpur, Main Bawana Road, Delhi. Stratified random sampling method was used for selection of respondents. The total sample size was of 480. The collected data was statistically analyzed using frequency, percentage, WMS, t-test and chi-square test. Stark difference was observed in the existing wardrobes of the respondents. The respondents studying in the institutes located in metro area possessed more numbers of branded apparels and accessories. It was also found that the respondents of the metro based institute were aware of more number of brands for apparels and accessories. The purchasing practices indicated that the amount of money spent by the respondents studying in the institute situated in metro area on branded apparels and accessories was more than that of the respondents of non-metro based institute. The respondents of metro based institute also preferred to shop for these branded articles from retail shops rather than online modes to ensure the genuineness of the brand and were found to be less price sensitive. The positive attitude possessed by the respondents of metro based institute for factors like quality and comfort of branded products, indicated their preference for branded apparels and accessories over non-branded.ThesisItem Open Access Value addition of dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata) fibres through dyeing with synthetic and natural dyes(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2013-07) Arya, Mamta; Anita RaniThe growing ecological consciousness and limited land availability for cultivation of fibre yielding crops have pressed researchers to explore under-utilized and new natural resources that could offer textile fibres for numerous end uses both technical and aesthetic. The hills of Himalayas and Tarai region of Kumaon are endowed with indigenous flora rich in natural fibres due to favourable climatic conditions. Some of these plants are bhimal, bhindi, bhang, rambans, bichu grass, shahtoot, timla, banana and oak used by the local masses for fibre extraction and its usage for manufacturing household items. One such unconventional plant source of textile fibre is dhaincha. Dhaincha is a green manure crop used prior to paddy cultivation and is also one of the valuable medicinal herbs. Botanically, this plant is known as Sesbania aculeata and by common names as danchi, dhaincha, dunchi, danicha. This plant belongs to leguminacea family. This harsh, coarse and shiny fibre has potential to find use in the different sectors. The present study was, therefore, planned to explore the use of dhaincha fibre in home textiles. Value addition of dhaincha fibres were done through dyeing with five synthetic dyes namely reactive, sulphur, vat, direct, and azoic and five natural dyes namely, Rubia cardifolia, Acacia catechu, Punica granatum, Indigofera tinctoria, and Curcuma longa. Optimization of M: L ratio and dyeing time was done prior to application of dyes on the fibres. Further the effect of dyes on physical properties of dhaincha fibre was assessed. Also the fastness of dyed dhaincha fibre was tested against washing, rubbing and light. Finally non woven fabric was prepared by needle punching method for product development It was found that the fibres could be dyed easily with natural and synthetic dyes. The dyed fibres exhibited high to medium colour strength. The fastness ranged from fair to very good against washing; very good to excellent against rubbing and poor to good against light. The dyeing of fibres affected the physical properties too. The moisture regain of the fibres improved effectively on dyeing with both the types of dyes. Non woven fabric was prepared by needle punching loom and fabric was utilized to make hand fan, magazine holder and table mat to showcase the possible use of dhaincha non woven for home textiles and travel utilities in vehicles.ThesisItem Open Access Designing of curtains using Aipan motifs through printing(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2014-06) Priyanka Kumari; Anita RaniThesisItem Open Access Green apparel and textiles: A comparative study on female university students of Kumaon region, Uttarakhand(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2014-05) Mamta; Anita RaniThesisItem Open Access Value addition of dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata) fibres through dyeing with synthetic and natural dyes(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2013-07) Arya, Mamta; Anita RaniThe growing ecological consciousness and limited land availability for cultivation of fibre yielding crops have pressed researchers to explore under-utilized and new natural resources that could offer textile fibres for numerous end uses both technical and aesthetic. The hills of Himalayas and Tarai region of Kumaon are endowed with indigenous flora rich in natural fibres due to favourable climatic conditions. Some of these plants are bhimal, bhindi, bhang, rambans, bichu grass, shahtoot, timla, banana and oak used by the local masses for fibre extraction and its usage for manufacturing household items. One such unconventional plant source of textile fibre is dhaincha. Dhaincha is a green manure crop used prior to paddy cultivation and is also one of the valuable medicinal herbs. Botanically, this plant is known as Sesbania aculeata and by common names as danchi, dhaincha, dunchi, danicha. This plant belongs to leguminacea family. This harsh, coarse and shiny fibre has potential to find use in the different sectors. The present study was, therefore, planned to explore the use of dhaincha fibre in home textiles. Value addition of dhaincha fibres were done through dyeing with five synthetic dyes namely reactive, sulphur, vat, direct, and azoic and five natural dyes namely, Rubia cardifolia, Acacia catechu, Punica granatum, Indigofera tinctoria, and Curcuma longa. Optimization of M: L ratio and dyeing time was done prior to application of dyes on the fibres. Further the effect of dyes on physical properties of dhaincha fibre was assessed. Also the fastness of dyed dhaincha fibre was tested against washing, rubbing and light. Finally non woven fabric was prepared by needle punching method for product development It was found that the fibres could be dyed easily with natural and synthetic dyes. The dyed fibres exhibited high to medium colour strength. The fastness ranged from fair to very good against washing; very good to excellent against rubbing and poor to good against light. The dyeing of fibres affected the physical properties too. The moisture regain of the fibres improved effectively on dyeing with both the types of dyes. Non woven fabric was prepared by needle punching loom and fabric was utilized to make hand fan, magazine holder and table mat to showcase the possible use of dhaincha non woven for home textiles and travel utilities in vehicles.