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ThesisItem Open Access Extraction, processing and evaluation of physico-chemical properties of Grewia asiatica (Phalsa) fibers and construction of woven and non-woven fabric(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-08) Upreti, Monika; Shahnaz JahanThe world is witnessing undesirable phenomenon in terms of changing global temperature, increasing population and shrinking natural resources. Textile being, one of the basic needs of human being is not untouched with the consequences of these changes. The need and awareness of using eco-friendly textiles have increased rapidly amongst the masses. Keeping all these points in mind, present research was conducted to screen various plants for extraction of bast fibers and selection of fiber giving plant based on the physical properties of fibers, to process the selected fiber and testing of physico-chemical properties of unprocessed and processed fibers, to prepare yarn from processed fiber and testing of its properties and to prepare woven and non-woven fabrics and assessment of their properties. A trail for extraction of fiber was conducted on three different plant species i.e. Grewia asiatica, Hibiscus syriacus and Malvaviscus penduliflorus by traditional water retting method. On the basis of best physical properties and high fiber yield, Grewia asiatica fiber was selected for the study. To improve the physical properties of Grewia asiatica fibers, best scouring method and softening method was selected. The treatment time and concentration of chemical were optimized for both scouring and softening process. Grewia asiatica fibers was scoured with optimum scouring conditions (20g/l NaOH and 5g/l ammonium oxalate at 100°C temperature for 30 minutes) and after that it was softened with optimum (0.5%) concentration of cationic softener at room temperature for 30 minutes. Physical and chemical properties and SEM analysis of the unprocessed and processed fibers was done. Results indicated that due to the removal of non-cellulosic substances from the surface of the fiber, processed fibers exhibited better physical and chemical properties. The SEM image of processed fibers also showed smooth and clear surface than unprocessed fiber. The processed Grewia asiatica fibers were cut, opened and carded for preparation of yarn. Yarn was prepared by using Bhageshwari Charkha. Cotton machine made yarn was procured from local market. The physical properties of both yarns were tested. Cotton yarn exhibited better strength, evenness and fineness whereas hand spun Grewia asiatica yarn was coarser and had hairiness. Therefore, cotton yarn selected as warp and Grewia asiatica yarn as weft for construction of woven union fabric. Union fabric was prepared on handloom by using herringbone weave and their properties were tested. It was found that fabric was heavy in weight, and exhibited good strength and elongation. The fabric had good abrasion resistance property and fair drapability. Therefore, the prepared woven fabric can be recommended for preparation of handicraft items as well as fashion fabric. Non-woven fabric was also prepared from processed Grewia asiatica fibers by needle punching method. The properties of non-woven fabric were tested and it was found that fabric was thick, light-weighted, had good thermal insulation property and good moisture regain property. Thus, the prepared non-woven fabrics can be used in agro-textiles for mulching, biocomposites, floor covering, carpets, handicrafts items and numerous home furnishing materials.ThesisItem Open Access Exploration of aipan designs for development of handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-08) Arya, Anuradha; Gahlot, ManishaIndia is a land of rich cultural heritage, which is enriched by myriad forms of folk arts as well. Folk art has always been great source of inspiration for the designers. Floor decoration is one of the important popular forms of art of many cultures in India. This is found in every part of India with different names like Alpana, Rangoli, kolam and Aipan also. Aipan is most popular floor art of Kumaun region of Uttarakhand which has great religious significance. Traditionally, it is drawn with geru and biwsar at places of worship, houses and main entry doors of house during particular religious ceremonies or auspicious occasions. The designs and motifs of Aipan are traditional in nature and possess geometrical figures, floral designs, symbolic motifs and figures of gods and goddesses. However, this art form has been on the decline with time but due to the inclination of people towards local arts, it has been thriving in product diversification. In the present study, an attempt was made toward the diversification of Aipan designs by using them for handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving technique which provided a new avenue to this art form, to popularize it commercially in a well-established market. In the present study, the data was collected on the status of handloom weaving in Uttarakhand to identify the need of design development and product diversification. The motifs and designs of Aipan were adapted in three categories (buta, buti and border) for the designing of saree. The adapted designs were combined and got evaluated in five categories for designing of saree namely combination of buta, buti and border, single design, combination of buta and buti, combination of border and buti and combination of border and buta. The colour board with theme “Colours of Uttarakhand” was developed as a source of inspiration for selection of colour schemes which included colours of flora, fauna and arts and craft of the state. The selected six combinations were used for the development of thirty-six design arrangements of sarees using the preplanned colour scheme taken from colour board. Total six design arrangement were selected and used for the weaving of saree with two techniques such as amru/tanchhoi and extra weft figuring with cut float method. The digital library was also developed using NedGraphics for the preparation of graph and for the storage of designs for future use. The developed sarees were assessed on different parameters by experts, consumers (females) and retailers. The consumers (Homemakers and working women) and retailers of six cities from two districts (Nainital and Udham Singh Nagar) were taken for the assessment of sarees. Catalogue of saree was also prepared for the promotion of developed saree. Sarees were also given brand name along with the logo. The result of the study showed that the woollen handloom products play prominent role in Uttarakhand handloom sector. Traditional woollen handloom products were produced in high hill and mid hill region whereas cotton products were mainly found to be developed in Tarai region. In Uttarakhand, the production of silk handloom product was found very less therefore the need of product diversification was analysed and silk saree was developed using adapted Aipan designs on handloom with jacquard weaving. The market cost of saree was calculated by straight line method. Finally, the developed sarees were assessed for the acceptance. The experts highly appreciated saree 1 and 5 on different parameters such as aesthetic appearance, innovation, craftsmanship, and performance. They also found the cost of all sarees medium. The majority of experts also appreciated the attempt made in the present study. In case of consumers, the both (homemakers and working women) preferred saree 1 and 5 more as compared to others. It was also found that the preference of saree was depended upon the age and the income groups of consumers. Both the consumers found the cost of sarees as the medium. The retailers also appreciated the attempt made in the study and preferred saree 1 and 5 more. The retailers found the cost of all sarees as high and suggested to reduce the cost of saree for commercialization. The developed sarees can be commercialized in Uttarakhand region. It would provide the product diversification in Aipan as well as in handloom sector also and would definitely create awareness about the folk art among young generation.ThesisItem Open Access Development of borders through extra yarn figuring using adapted Aipan designs for application on apparel and accessories(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-09) Bhandari, Vandana; Anita RaniThesisItem Open Access Adaptation of architectural designs of Padmanabhapuram palace through CAD for application on apparel using digital printing(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-09) Abinaya Dharshini, J.; Gahlot, ManishaThesisItem Open Access Variation in geotechnical properties of expansive soil by adding jute fibre reinforcement(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Jain, Vaibhav; Gupta, SandeepImprovement in soil sub grade has always been an area of concern to Road transport and geotechnical engineers. In the case of a road, a weak sub grade results in a greater thickness of pavement layer which increases the cost of pavement construction. To strengthen the subgrade soil, the use of jute fibre is advantageous because they are cheap, easily available, and eco-friendly. Jute fibre mixed randomly with subgrade soil has significant positive impact on the improvement of subgrade characteristics Keeping this in view an experimental study was conducted on locally available soil reinforced with Jute fibre. In this study the soil samples were prepared at its maximum dry density corresponding to the optimum moisture content in the CBR value with and without Jute fibre reinforcement. The Jute fibre was mixed in 0.25%, 0.50%, 0.75%, 1.00%, 1.25%, 1.50%, 1.75% and 2.00% of dry weight of soil with original soil. In the present investigation the length of fibre was taken as 30 mm. On these mixes of soil various tests of strength properties like Standard Proctor tests, California bearing ratio tests (CBR) and Unconfined compressive strength test, Tri-axial test was performed to analyse the shear parameter cohesion and angle of friction of soil. On addition of increasing percentage of Jute fibre, the OMC indicated increasing trends and MDD indicated decreasing trends continuously. Unsoaked and soaked values of CBR, UCS values and triaxial shear parameter showed an increasing trend with increasing percentages of Jute fibre till 1.25 % fibre content and after this, the value showed a decreasing trend. The economical analysis was done on natural and modified soil sample on the behalf of original CBR value and the optimum value of CBR. Soil mixes with Jute fibre indicates the total 155 mm, crust thickness has been saved. Total saving calculated in the construction of per km of pavement crust is found to be of Rs. 2.77 Lacs, if the pavement is constructed on the modified sub grade instead of natural soil subgrade.that improvement the overall engineering characteristics of the soil.ThesisItem Open Access Designing and construction of garments for preschool children using khadi fabrics(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Bhatt, Yogita; Goel, AlkaThesisItem Open Access Lambadi and Koya tribal costumes and textiles of Andhra Pradesh: a source for embellishment of contemporary apparel and accessory items(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Sindhu, Godi; Shahnaj JahanThe traditional costumes of any community or tribe can be affected by the development and change of time. Therefore, an attempt has been made to restore the information of traditional costumes and textiles of Lambadi and Koya tribes through documentation, before it gets completely diminished. So that one can gets detailed information regarding the traditional costumes and textiles used by the tribes of Andhra Pradesh. The contemporary apparel and accessories were also prepared based on the collected information. Total 159 respondents were selected by using purposive sampling from 2 villages namely pedda thanda of nuziveedu town and gudem of jangareddygudem town which are belonging to Krishna district and West Godavari districts respectively from the state of Andhra Pradesh. The structured interview schedule was prepared and the data was collected from both primary and secondary sources. The results revealed that sado (sari) and jacket (blouse), langa (skirt), kanchali (blouse) and tukri (dupatta), langa, kanchali and voni, langa and kanchali, phetia, kanchali and tukri were the traditional garments of Lambadi females, whereas, ankle length, calf length and knee length koka (sari) and ravika (blouse), lungi and ravika, koka without ravika were the traditional garments of Koya tribe. The male traditional garments of Lambadi tribe included lungi and jhagla, dhoti and jubba, pants and dovathi, whereas the traditional garments of Koya male included lungi and chokka (shirt), gochi (loin cloth), gochi and jubba, langa and chokka, pancha and kurta and dovathi. The traditional textiles of both the tribes were similar and included rumal/thundu (hand towel), duppati/jampkhana (bed sheet), raggu (blanket), bontha (quilt), madatha mancham fabric (folding bed), navvara, saaluva (shawl) and dindi (pillow). The contemporary apparel and accessories of Lambadi and Koya were also studied and the results revealed that the costumes of male included pant and shirt, jeans, T-shirt, shorts, kurta and dhoti etc whereas the female costume included chudidar, kurti, long skirt, half sari, middies, lehenga choli etc,. and it was noticed that the contemporary costumes of one tribe are similar with the other tribe. Total 32 motifs were collected from the apparel of Lambadi women, as no embellishment was found on Koya apparel. The collected motifs were divided into 4 categories namely embroidery, combination of embroidery and appliqué, designs for bead and mirror work, i.e, 8 motifs in each category. The collected motifs were modified through Corel Draw and evaluated. Three motifs in each category which got the highest weighted mean score were selected. The next evaluation was done to evaluate suitable embroidery stitch for the selected motif by giving the option of 3 stitches for each motif. The selected motifs were arranged on contemporary apparel for college going students, namely kurti, top, long skirt and palazzo and accessories namely stole and hand bag. The arrangement of motifs were made on each product in 4 different styles and evaluated on the basis of suitability, combination and placement of motif. The arrangement which got the highest weighted mean score was selected for each product. Thereafter products were stitched, hand embroidered with selected motifs, stitch and arrangement. Finally the prepared hand embroidery products were visually assessed on parameters such as combination of motifs in the arrangement, suitability and placement of motifs on the garment, suitability of embroidery stitches, fineness of embroidery, color combination and overall appearance by college going girls. All the prepared products were highly accepted and most of the respondents stated that they would certainly purchase these items if commercially available. It can be concluded that the documentation will be definitely useful for the fashion industry. The designs of tribal costume will also be useful for embellishing the other contemporary apparel and accessories, as the work done under the study has been appreciated by most of the consumers.ThesisItem Open Access Survey on use of textile materials in university research farms and product development from used materials(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Bhatt, Pooja; Anita RaniThesisItem Open Access Processing of Dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata W.) fibres and development of nonwoven and woven structures for technical end uses(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Negi, Monika; Anita, Rani