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ThesisItem Open Access Extraction, processing and evaluation of physico-chemical properties of Grewia asiatica (Phalsa) fibers and construction of woven and non-woven fabric(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-08) Upreti, Monika; Shahnaz JahanThe world is witnessing undesirable phenomenon in terms of changing global temperature, increasing population and shrinking natural resources. Textile being, one of the basic needs of human being is not untouched with the consequences of these changes. The need and awareness of using eco-friendly textiles have increased rapidly amongst the masses. Keeping all these points in mind, present research was conducted to screen various plants for extraction of bast fibers and selection of fiber giving plant based on the physical properties of fibers, to process the selected fiber and testing of physico-chemical properties of unprocessed and processed fibers, to prepare yarn from processed fiber and testing of its properties and to prepare woven and non-woven fabrics and assessment of their properties. A trail for extraction of fiber was conducted on three different plant species i.e. Grewia asiatica, Hibiscus syriacus and Malvaviscus penduliflorus by traditional water retting method. On the basis of best physical properties and high fiber yield, Grewia asiatica fiber was selected for the study. To improve the physical properties of Grewia asiatica fibers, best scouring method and softening method was selected. The treatment time and concentration of chemical were optimized for both scouring and softening process. Grewia asiatica fibers was scoured with optimum scouring conditions (20g/l NaOH and 5g/l ammonium oxalate at 100°C temperature for 30 minutes) and after that it was softened with optimum (0.5%) concentration of cationic softener at room temperature for 30 minutes. Physical and chemical properties and SEM analysis of the unprocessed and processed fibers was done. Results indicated that due to the removal of non-cellulosic substances from the surface of the fiber, processed fibers exhibited better physical and chemical properties. The SEM image of processed fibers also showed smooth and clear surface than unprocessed fiber. The processed Grewia asiatica fibers were cut, opened and carded for preparation of yarn. Yarn was prepared by using Bhageshwari Charkha. Cotton machine made yarn was procured from local market. The physical properties of both yarns were tested. Cotton yarn exhibited better strength, evenness and fineness whereas hand spun Grewia asiatica yarn was coarser and had hairiness. Therefore, cotton yarn selected as warp and Grewia asiatica yarn as weft for construction of woven union fabric. Union fabric was prepared on handloom by using herringbone weave and their properties were tested. It was found that fabric was heavy in weight, and exhibited good strength and elongation. The fabric had good abrasion resistance property and fair drapability. Therefore, the prepared woven fabric can be recommended for preparation of handicraft items as well as fashion fabric. Non-woven fabric was also prepared from processed Grewia asiatica fibers by needle punching method. The properties of non-woven fabric were tested and it was found that fabric was thick, light-weighted, had good thermal insulation property and good moisture regain property. Thus, the prepared non-woven fabrics can be used in agro-textiles for mulching, biocomposites, floor covering, carpets, handicrafts items and numerous home furnishing materials.ThesisItem Open Access Exploration of aipan designs for development of handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-08) Arya, Anuradha; Gahlot, ManishaIndia is a land of rich cultural heritage, which is enriched by myriad forms of folk arts as well. Folk art has always been great source of inspiration for the designers. Floor decoration is one of the important popular forms of art of many cultures in India. This is found in every part of India with different names like Alpana, Rangoli, kolam and Aipan also. Aipan is most popular floor art of Kumaun region of Uttarakhand which has great religious significance. Traditionally, it is drawn with geru and biwsar at places of worship, houses and main entry doors of house during particular religious ceremonies or auspicious occasions. The designs and motifs of Aipan are traditional in nature and possess geometrical figures, floral designs, symbolic motifs and figures of gods and goddesses. However, this art form has been on the decline with time but due to the inclination of people towards local arts, it has been thriving in product diversification. In the present study, an attempt was made toward the diversification of Aipan designs by using them for handloom silk sarees with jacquard weaving technique which provided a new avenue to this art form, to popularize it commercially in a well-established market. In the present study, the data was collected on the status of handloom weaving in Uttarakhand to identify the need of design development and product diversification. The motifs and designs of Aipan were adapted in three categories (buta, buti and border) for the designing of saree. The adapted designs were combined and got evaluated in five categories for designing of saree namely combination of buta, buti and border, single design, combination of buta and buti, combination of border and buti and combination of border and buta. The colour board with theme “Colours of Uttarakhand” was developed as a source of inspiration for selection of colour schemes which included colours of flora, fauna and arts and craft of the state. The selected six combinations were used for the development of thirty-six design arrangements of sarees using the preplanned colour scheme taken from colour board. Total six design arrangement were selected and used for the weaving of saree with two techniques such as amru/tanchhoi and extra weft figuring with cut float method. The digital library was also developed using NedGraphics for the preparation of graph and for the storage of designs for future use. The developed sarees were assessed on different parameters by experts, consumers (females) and retailers. The consumers (Homemakers and working women) and retailers of six cities from two districts (Nainital and Udham Singh Nagar) were taken for the assessment of sarees. Catalogue of saree was also prepared for the promotion of developed saree. Sarees were also given brand name along with the logo. The result of the study showed that the woollen handloom products play prominent role in Uttarakhand handloom sector. Traditional woollen handloom products were produced in high hill and mid hill region whereas cotton products were mainly found to be developed in Tarai region. In Uttarakhand, the production of silk handloom product was found very less therefore the need of product diversification was analysed and silk saree was developed using adapted Aipan designs on handloom with jacquard weaving. The market cost of saree was calculated by straight line method. Finally, the developed sarees were assessed for the acceptance. The experts highly appreciated saree 1 and 5 on different parameters such as aesthetic appearance, innovation, craftsmanship, and performance. They also found the cost of all sarees medium. The majority of experts also appreciated the attempt made in the present study. In case of consumers, the both (homemakers and working women) preferred saree 1 and 5 more as compared to others. It was also found that the preference of saree was depended upon the age and the income groups of consumers. Both the consumers found the cost of sarees as the medium. The retailers also appreciated the attempt made in the study and preferred saree 1 and 5 more. The retailers found the cost of all sarees as high and suggested to reduce the cost of saree for commercialization. The developed sarees can be commercialized in Uttarakhand region. It would provide the product diversification in Aipan as well as in handloom sector also and would definitely create awareness about the folk art among young generation.ThesisItem Open Access Processing of Dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata W.) fibres and development of nonwoven and woven structures for technical end uses(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Negi, Monika; Anita, RaniThesisItem Open Access Application of UV protective finish on cotton fabric using plant extracts of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Pargai, Deepti; Shahnaz JahanUV radiation from the sun is causing various harmful effects on skin of human beings. Fabric have potential to protect against these harmful UV rays, however not all fabric can provide protection thus this study was aimed at developing UV protective finish for Khadi cotton fabric. Plant materials like leaves of Urtica dioica and Vitis vinifera as well as peels of Citrus limetta were used for developing UV protective finish. These plant extracts was applied on the cotton fabric using different methods of application i.e. exhaust method, microwave method and microencapsulation method. Finishing conditions for application of each selected plant extract were optimized using box and behnken design under design expert software version 10. Different optimized finishing condition was observed for each of the method of application. In case of exhaustion method 10.59%, 9.651% and 9.032% concentration of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extracts was selected respectively as optimum concentration. Optimum exhaustion temperature was found 40oC for application of Urtica dioica and Citrus limetta while 40.939o C for Vitis vinifera. Thirty minutes of exhaustion time was found optimum in case of application of Urtica dioica extract while 60 minutes for application of Citrus limetta as well as for Vitis vinifera extract was found to be optimum. In case of microwave method, optimum concentration was selected as 11%, 8.413%, 9.380% concentration of the Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. Optimum power of microwave was found to be 320.154 watt, 317.889 watt and 312.901 watt for Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. Treatment time i.e. 5.511 minutes, 6.758 minutes and 7 minutes was found optimum for Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. In case of microencapsulation method, Optimum concentration of microcapsules was observed as 4.117%, 5.000%, 3.574% for Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract respectively. Concentration of binder as 3%, 2.761%, and 2.942 % was observed to be optimum for application of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera microcapsules respectively. Optimum curing temperature for application of Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract was found was 113.254o C, 100o C and 120.664o C respectively. It can be concluded that very good to excellent UV protection properties can be incorporated in khadi cotton fabric by using Urtica dioica, Citrus limetta and Vitis vinifera extract. Microencapsulation method was observed to be best with regard of UPF, tensile strength, lightness value as well as in providing maximum durability. Addition of UV protection property will not only provide protection against UV rays but also help to add value in khadi fabric which would increases the market for khadi cotton fabric.ThesisItem Open Access Optimization of printing process on cotton fabric using natural gums and industrialby-product (Black Cutch) as dye(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Singh, Anupriya; Gahlot, ManishaThe need of clothing in present context is not limited to modesty but it progressed to become an element of expression to display social class, individuality and creativity. This has invoked increased demands of textile articles in bright colours and prints. The penetration and demand of synthetic dyes used on various textile articles in the market is well known and they cannot be replaced with natural dyes in the near future. But the awareness of harmful effects of various synthetic dyes along with other chemicals introduced in dyeing and printing of textiles has motivated some scientists and dye manufacturers to look back on natural resources and production of materials in a sustainable manner. Thus, researchers were motivated to utilize latest technologies and organic materials that were comparatively less harmful and sustainable. One such effort was done in the present study to print cotton fabric using industrial byproduct as dye and natural gums with environmentally safe additives. Different printing pastes were prepared with guar gum and sodium alginate gum using sodium carbonate (SC) and bicarbonate (SB) as additives in 30% and 40% concentration of dye. Optimization of guar gum printing paste recipe was done by using Box and Behnken Design (BBD) model wherein three levels of three parameters dye:water ratio (A), additive (B) and mordant concentration (C) were taken as independent factors. The optimization of sodium alginate printing paste recipe was done by taking dye:water ratio and additive concentration as independent factors without using BBD. It was observed that increasing the dye:water ratio as well as dye concentration in the printing paste significantly improved the colour strength of printed samples. Increasing the concentration of additive (1 - 1.3% SC and 4.5 - 5.5% SB in guar gum and 1.5 - 2% SC and 4 - 5% SB in sodium alginate gum) improved the colour strength of samples. The numerical analysis of BBD showed that changing the levels of A, B and C significantly changed the values of colour strength (K/S), fastness rating for wet rubbing and breaking strength in warp and weft direction of samples printed with guar gum printing paste using sodium carbonate. In case of guar gum printing paste using sodium bicarbonate, colour strength (K/S) value, fastness rating for light, wet rubbing, alkaline perspiration and breaking strength in warp and weft direction were found to be significantly affected by changing the levels of A, B and C. All the printed samples exhibited excellent fastness to washing. The optimized printing paste prepared from sodium alginate gum using sodium carbonate and bicarbonate exhibited high colour strength, good fastness to light and wet rubbing, very good fastness to dry rubbing, alkaline and acidic perspiration. In case of guar gum printing pastes as well as sodium alginate printing paste good colour strength, fastness and fabric strength was observed when samples were printed using sodium bicarbonate. Four printing pastes were obtained, two each from guar gum and sodium alginate gum after optimization on the basis of colour strength, colour fastness and fabric strength. Samples were visually evaluated on uniformity,depth, clarity and neatness in which highest score was obtained by samples printed using sodium bicarbonate with guar gum and sodium alginate gum. Except for BOD and temperature in some samples, all the tested parameters of untreated wastewater samples collected from the printing process were within the permissible limits of textile effluents given by Indian government. The quantification of printing paste in terms of total amount of water, dye and additive required to print a fabric using natural gum and a sustainable dye source was successfully performed in the study. Good colour fastness results indicated fixation of dye on the fabric without using metallic mordants. The printing paste was found to be environmentally safe if treated biologically for reduction of BOD. Thus, the optimized printing paste can be recommended for use in small scale industries.ThesisItem Open Access Natural dye from Monascus purpureus: Optimization of dyeing process and evaluation of its colour fastness and functional properties of cotton and silk fabric(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar (Uttarakhand), 2017-01) Basant, Tripti; Shahnaz JahanThesisItem Open Access Utilization of flax, lyocell and spandex fibers for development of composite yarns and preparation of woven and knit fabrics(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar (Uttarakhand), 2017-01) Sahu, Swati; Goel, AlkaFlax fibers, obtained from Linum usitatissimum, was probably the first plant fiber to be used by man for making of textiles as supported by biblical writings. Flax fibers have inherent strength, UV resistance, good absorbency and wicking properties. Despite having better properties, the use of flax is not much popular. The prime reason is that the spinning of flax is difficult, making its products expensive. This is because its lacks cohesiveness which is a mandatory requirement for spinning. In order to make flax economically spinnable, fibers must be cottonized so that it can be blended with other conventional or unconventional fibers. However, blended linen fabrics lacks the appearance and texture of pure linen fabrics. Furthermore, flax fibers are hard/rigid, lack elasticity and have little resilience. Pure fabrics developed from flax fibers require high maintenance which limited its consumption with elite class of customers. The problems associated with pure linen fabrics was overcome by using composite yarns i.e. cover spun yarns and core spun yarns. Flax fibers, lyocell fibers and spandex filament were used to develop four types of core spun yarns while for cover spun yarns, yarns of selected fibers were used. The developed yarns were tested and used for construction of fabrics using handloom and flat knit machine without the application of sizing and waxing agents. Woven fabrics were manufactured using 2/2 twill weave. Six different woven fabrics were developed from cover spun yarns having same warp with different wefts. Similarly, six fabrics were developed from core spun yarns. Properties of fabrics (developed using cover spun yarns and core spun yarns) were compared inter-se as well as with control fabrics i.e. pure linen and lyocell fabrics. Fabrics developed with cover spun yarns were also compared with fabrics prepared using core spun yarns, despite of having different production techniques. Results showed that woven fabrics developed from composite yarns were thicker with better mechanical, comfort and aesthetic properties than control fabrics i.e. pure linen and lyocell fabrics. Weft knit single jersey fabrics were also developed from composite yarns. Developed fabrics from composite yarns possessed good pilling and abrasion resistance with sufficient air permeability. Clo value and wickability of knit fabrics developed from composite yarns were found high. It was also noted that developed fabrics were easily dyeable with reactive dyes and exhibited very good colourfastness similar to that of control fabrics. Consumer’s acceptability assessment showed that fabrics developed from composite yarns especially stretchable fabrics were preferred over pure fabrics for apparel purposes.