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ThesisItem Open Access Natural dyes from Pseudomonas fluorescens: Extraction, characterization and optimization of dyeing process for textiles(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2007-12) Mishra, Anupama; Shahnaz JahanThe textile industry which is among most polluting industries, witnesses an increased demand for dyes and finishes which are multifunctional and are preferably eco-friendly and renewable. Natural dyes are being looked at as an “Eco-solution” to the ill effects of synthetic dyes. The Indian textile exporters have resorted to the use of natural dyes so that the products appeal to the green minded consumer. Therefore, present study has been taken for optimization of fermentation conditions for pigment production and dyeing variables for dyeing of natural fibers i.e. silk, wool and cotton with natural dye extracted from two isolates of Pseudomonas fluorescens using different mordants. Pigments from both the isolates were extracted, characterized and their related inherent properties were studied. In case of strain Pf-24 Modified King’s B agar medium at pH-7.0 was optimized which incubated at 25ºC for 2 days. Isolate Pf-27 was inoculated on broth medium at pH-7.0 and incubated in stationary incubator at 25ºC for 5 days for getting maximum pigment of desired colour. FTIR and NMR spectroscopy characterized that both the pigments were classified under phenazine derivatives. Two gram concentration of both the dyes at pH-5 gave best results on silk and wool at 70ºC for 60 minutes. In case of cotton skeins dyeing, 4gm concentration of both the dyes at pH-9, 90ºC for 75 minutes was selected as optimum. The M: L ratio was kept as 1:30 in both the cases. Simultaneous mordanting method selected for metallic mordants on all type of yarns whereas pre-mordanting method was selected for natural mordants. Three gram amla, pomegranate rind and walnut bark, 4.0g tea leaves were found to produce best results with dye from Pf-24 on silk and wool samples. The optimum concentration was 4.0g for babool bark and pomegranate rind, 3.0g for tea leaves for dyeing cotton yarns. In case of dye extracted from Pf-27 same concentration of all the natural mordants for silk, 3.0g for wool and. 4.0g for cotton were selected. For silk and wool dyeing 0.02g ferrous sulphate, copper sulphate, alum and 0.03g tartaric acid selected as optimum with the dye from Pf-24. Cotton skeins were mordanted with 0.02g ferrous sulphate, alum and 0.03g tannic acid In case of dye extracted from Pf-27, 0.02g copper sulphate and 0.03g ferrous sulphate, alum and tannic acid gave bright shades on silk samples. In case of wool samples, 0.03g ferrous sulphate and 0.02g copper sulphate, alum and tannic acid and for cotton 0.02g ferrous sulphate and 0.03g alum and tannic acid were recommended. All the natural as well as metallic mordants improved the colourfastness of dyed samples. Colour coordinates and depth of colour of various dyed and mordanted samples were evaluated. In most of the cases, mordants gave higher depth to the samples. Negligible toxicity in both the dyes was observed to mammalian cells as well as for silkworm. All the experimental dyed fabrics were also found safe to use and they were not harmful to human skins. Maximum increase in UPF was observed in case of samples dyed with dye extracted from Pf-27 as compared to samples dyed with Pf-24. Antimicrobial activity of both the dyes was assessed which showed better antimicrobial activity against gram positive bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus than gram negative bacteria, E. coli.ThesisItem Open Access Application of antimicrobial finish on woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics for the development of eco friendly infant clothes(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-06) Massey, Shefali; Shahnaz JahanToday environment protection, consumer health and safety have become main focus issues. This is because of consumer’s growing interest in use of natural products, hence, textile industry witness an increased demand of finishes which are eco friendly. Besides this, the most utilitarian aspect of clothing is design and construction of garments that would provide physical comfort and durability to small children having soft skin vulnerable to infections. Therefore, present research work has been taken up to apply antimicrobial finish on woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics to develop eco friendly infant clothes. In the present study, qualitative and quantitative assessment of antimicrobial activity of eucalyptus oil, menthol oil, clove oil and neem oil were tested at different concentrations (10Ol to 60 Ol) against Staphylococcus aureus and Aspergillus niger on woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics. Eucalyptus oil showed maximum antibacterial and antifungal activity at 60 Ol against bacteria Staphylococcus aureus and fungi Aspergillus niger in both the tests. The antimicrobial activity of menthol oil at 60 Ol was found good and after eucalyptus oil was second best followed by clove oil. Neem oil had minimum antibacterial activity on woven organic cotton and antifungal activity of neem oil was found nil on both woven and loop pile organic cotton samples. Eucalyptus oil was selected for making the fabrics antimicrobial. Spray method was used for applying temporary antimicrobial. The finish was vanished after second and third washing treatments. The performance study of both untreated and treated woven and loop pile organic cotton samples was done on the basis of physical tests. There was non-significant effect of herbal oil finish on fabric count, cover factor and pile density of woven and loop pile samples. The results revealed that there was significant effect of oil on rest of the other physical properties. Application of oil decreased drape coefficient, abrasion loss per cent, wettability and bending length whereas dimensional stability, crease recovery angle and fabric weight was increased in both woven and loop pile organic cotton fabrics. Tearing strength, tensile strength, bursting strength, air permeability and water vapour transmission was found to be decreased in treated woven organic cotton fabric while all these properties increased in loop pile organic cotton after application of herbal oil finish. In the next stage survey was done to collect information from mothers about clothing practices and requirements for infant clothes. It was found that majority of the families belonged to Middle SES, total family income ranged between Rs 5,000/- to 9,999, all the parents were educated but inspite of the education of mothers 60 per cent mothers were non-working. Majority of mothers depends on window displays, shop as per list of items from ordinary shops, shop during sales as well as buy clothes whenever required. All the mothers preferred ready-made infant garments because of wider choice of fabric, design, style, good fit on the average price range of Rs 201/- to 300. Comfort, easy care, price, fit, durability were the first five preferred selection factors for purchasing infant clothes. Cotton was the most preferred fabric for infant clothes because of its absorbency and year round comfort followed by wool, terrycot, cotswool and silk. Least preferred fabrics were nylon and terylene. Cool colours, nursery prints, soft texture were preferred by mothers for male infants while warm colours, nursery prints/ floral designs and soft texture were preferred for female. Design details such as frills and laces, front openings, half sleeves, gathers, pockets were favoured by mothers. In case of type of garments elastic at the back of panties, slips without buttons, velcro diapers, elastic pyjama, side opened skirts and front opened frocks, sweaters without zippers and buttons were preferred by infant mothers. The study reveals that buying of infant clothes significantly depends on socio-economic status of the family. Awareness of mothers significantly depends on education.ThesisItem Open Access Utilization of eco-friendly bamboo-cotton fibre blends for protective and healthcare textiles(G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2009-12) Sharma, Vandana; Goel, AlkaMedical textiles are one of the most rapidly expanding sectors in the technical textile market. Medical Textiles are the products and constructions used for medical and biological applications and are used primarily for first aid, clinical and hygienic purposes. An important area of meditech is protective and healthcare textiles which include doctor’s lab coat, surgical gowns, patient dress, cap, masks, etc. All the protective and healthcare textiles require special antimicrobial properties combined with the wearer’s comfort. Antimicrobial textiles are easily finding place in medical industry and mostly disposable and nonwoven antimicrobial textiles are used in medical field. Some of the treatments being used to produce antimicrobial textiles are harmful to the user as the chemicals used in the treatment of textiles tend to cause skin allergy, etc. when developed into apparel and also to our environment because the chemically treated textiles are not reusable. To address the growing concern about personal protection and environment, present study was carried out to develop reusable textiles with inherited antimicrobial and biodegradable properties which will help in reducing the amount of chemicals and trash being disposed off in the landfills. Therefore in order to enhance the antimicrobial and bio-degradable properties of protective and healthcare textiles, two eco friendly fibers i.e., cotton (cellulosic fiber) and bamboo (regenerated cellulosic fiber) were selected for the present study. Till today, cotton being the most used fiber for making protective and healthcare textiles because fabrics developed from cotton fiber combined durability with attractive wearing qualities and comfort. Cotton can withstand repeated washings and is ideal for garments that must be laundered often but it lacks anti-microbial properties. Cotton fiber is easily available in India whereas bamboo fiber is imported from China which made it slightly costlier than cotton. Thus in view of the above stated points, value addition of cotton with bamboo fibers was carried out by using blending technology in order to prepare eco friendly fabrics with inherited antimicrobial properties. Bamboo fiber owns a unique anti-bacterial bio-agent named "bamboo Kun" which combined with bamboo cellulose molecules tightly all along during the process of being produced into bamboo fiber. Bamboo fiber’s natural anti-bacterial function differs greatly from that of chemical antimicrobial treatments. The later often tend to cause skin allergy when added to apparels. Fiber properties were evaluated on the basis of end use of products. Ten ring spun yarn samples made up of cotton and bamboo in different ratios (100:0, 70:30, 50:50, 30:70 and 0:100) i.e. five different ratios of 2-ply warp and five different ratios of single ply weft yarns were prepared. Pure and blended warp and weft yarn samples were tested for estimating the quality of raw material and for controlling the quality of fabric produced. It was found that it is possible to produce good quality, strong and regular yarn with less hairiness through blending of cotton with bamboo. In order to ensure that the product being manufactured will meet the desired quality level and confirm to the laid down specifications for their intended purpose, pure and blended cotton-bamboo woven fabric samples were prepared and tested for various structural, mechanical, aesthetic and comfort properties. All the pure and blended fabrics were found suitable for preparation of different types of protective and healthcare textiles. Assessment of antimicrobial property of pure and blended woven fabrics against commonly found bacteria’s i.e. S. aureus, E. coli and fungi’s i.e. A. niger, T. reesei were also carried out. It was observed that as the contact hours increased, bamboo-cotton blended fabric samples showed better antibacterial and antifungal properties as compared to pure cotton fabric sample. Reduction in the number of bacterial and fungal counts was seen higher among after washed fabric samples than the before washed fabrics. Biodegradability assessment of pure and blended fabrics were also carried out which indicated that as percentage of bamboo increased in fabric samples and as the days increased, the degradation of the fabric samples also increased. Visual assessment of all fabrics was done and the article which secured highest rank for the particular fabric was prepared. Cost of one meter fabric and the articles cost on the basis of the fabric consumed, trimmings used and labour cost were also calculated. Textile customers all over the world are demanding eco-friendly textiles; hence manufacturers and exporters are becoming more aware of the fascination and commercial value of eco textiles. The only way to produce the eco textile product is to turn towards the nature. Thus the findings of the present research study concluded that pure and blended cotton and bamboo protective and healthcare textile will have great potentials to finds its own place in today’s competitive global market and can fetch good premium price in both domestic and global market as now a day’s customers are giving more importance to health and hygiene.