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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × End date: 2004 × Start date: 2004 × Thesis Type: M.Sc ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Extraction of natural dyes from chilmora flowers (Rumex hastatus) and kamala leaves (Mallotus Philippensis): process development for dyeing of silk and quantitative estimation of crude dye extract
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2004-07) Sati, Hema; Shahnaz Jahan
    Dyes are colourant that penetrate the actual fibre and appear to become a part of it. They are broadly classified as natural and synthetic dyes. In recent years, the thrust has been shifted to the research and development of natural dyes, as these are more ecofirendly in comparison to carcinogenic and non-ecofriendly synthetic dyes. Natural dyes are also known for their long endurance and soft lustrous colours. The international market for natural dyed textile products is very large and export of natural dyed products can earn extra revenue for the country. The present study was done on the process development for dyeing of silk with flowers of Chilmora (Rumex hastatus) and leaves of Kamala (Mallotus philippensis) and quantitative estimation of crude dried dye extract. These sources were found to produce different shades of Pink, Yellowish green, Green, Brown and Khaki. A series of experiments were conducted to optimize different dyeing variables viz. concentration of dye, extraction time, dyeing time, mordant concentration and method of mordanting. The medium of extraction was selected as acidic for Chilmora flower dye and alkaline for Kamala leaf dye. In case of Chilmora flower dye, 5% dye concentration, 75 minutes extraction time and 45 minutes dyeing time was found as optimum, whereas, 4% dye concentration, 60 minutes extraction time and 60 minutes dyeing time was found to be optimum in case of Kamala leaf dye. In case of Chilmora flower dye, .04% of Chrome and Stannous chloride and 4% of Pomegranate rind with post mordanting 4% of Tea leaves, 5% of Amaltas bark and .03% of Copper sulphate with simultaneous mordanting and dyeing gave best shades on silk. In case of Kamala leaf dye, it was observed that 1% Walnut bark with post mordanting, 4% Bahera, .03% of Copper sulphate and .05% of Stannous chloride with simultaneous mordanting and dyeing, 4% Pomegranate rind and .02% of Chrome with premordanting produced best shades on silk. It was also concluded that the colour fastness to light, washing, perspiration and crocking of both the dyes was improved with the use of mordants. However, the darkening of colour during light and wash fastness test and a change in colour during alkaline perspiration test was observed in case of Chilmora flower dye. Tensile strength of blank samples of both the dyes was found to be significantly different from both undyed silk and their respective mordanted samples. Percent elongation at break of undyed fabric was found to have no significant difference with blank samples of both the dyes where as it differs significantly with mordanted samples in case of both the dyes. On quantitative estimation, the yield of crude dye powder from Kamala leaf was found to be double in amount of the yield of Chilmora flower dye powder. The powder produced lighter shade of same hue in case of Kamala leaf and a different shade on silk in case of Chilmora flower dye was found. The colour fastness to light and wash of the dye powder
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Value addition of mulbery silk waste and Tibetian wool through blending
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2004-12) Sonu Rani; Goel, Alka
    Wool, shorn off from sheep, is a vital raw material for the woollen industry. Sheep breeds available at Kumoan region Viz. Merino and Napali/Tibetian produce fine to coarse wool. Blending of Tibetian wool with Mulbery silk waste brings about favorable changes in the performance of resultant fabric. Therefore present study was undertaken to determine Tibetian wool and Mulbery silk blend best in all respect from performance to aesthetic appeal and economy. Physico-chemical properties Tibetian wool and Mulbery silk waste were studied viz. fiber length, strength, elongation, crimp, fineness, effect of acid, alkali etc. Pure (wool/silk) and blended single ply yarns of different ratio i.e. 35:65, 50:50 and 65:35 were prepared on Bageshwari Charkha for weaving. Knitting yarn prepared by twisting two single-ply yarn. Physical properties of pure and blended yarns were evaluated for strength, elongation, yarn count, twist/inch, evenness etc. All knitting yarns pure and blended were dyed with acid, basic and reactive dyes. Colourfastness of dyed yarns tested to light, washing, perspiration and crocking. Shawls were prepared from pure and blended weaving yarns and sweaters were prepare from pure and blended knitting yarns and different physical properties of fabrics were evaluated. It has been found that Tibetian wool is coarser than Mulbery silk waste fiber. With increase in the Tibetian wool fiber, fabric thickness and thermal insulation increased but strength decreased. Thus from the present study it can be concluded that 50:50 Tibetian wool and Mulbery blend proportion is best in all respect i.e. from performance and good aesthetic appearance of the fabric.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Adaptation of Kumauni folk designs for block printing
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2004-07) Joshi, Yogita; Gahlot, Manisha
    India is a country with natural and cultural richness. Indian art is one of the oldest and the most resilient culture and it changed and evolved with the evolution of civilization. The major factor responsible for it‟s continuing is rural folk, which preserved the age-old motifs and designs. Kumauni Aipan is one of the oldest and most famous folk art of Uttaranchal. This study was taken up with an aim to develop designs of block printing for various articles based on Aipan design, preparation of blocks, printing of articles and to assess the consumer acceptability of the developed designs. Twenty-seven new designs were developed for block printing. The designs were developed for three articles i.e. Bed cover, Cushion cover and Kurta under three categories – one colour design, two colour design and three colour design. Three designs in each category and nine designs for each article were developed. One design from each category of every article was selected and finally nine designs were selected for the preparation of blocks. Blocks were prepared at Sanganer (Jaipur, Rajasthan). Printing was done on cotton fabric using pigment colour. The printed articles were further evaluated for different attributes namely suitability of the design to the end use, arrangement of motifs, suitability of the printing technique used and over all appearance. Consumer acceptability of the printed articles was also assessed through questionnaire cum interview schedule. A sample size of 50 was selected for the study. Respondents selected for the study were the housewives. All the responses were first tabulated and analyzed. Percentage was calculated to reach upon the conclusion. Consumers accepted all the printed articles. Based on the survey work conducted during the course of present study it can be concluded that block printing is one of the best way to represent these Aipan designs in its full beauty and originality and these design have a potential to be introduced in the market at a large scale. The opportunities of textile designing by using traditional motifs are unlimited and one needs only to discover the many possibilities that it holds.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Adaptation of Kumauni designs using computer aided designing for value added woven products
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2004-07) Verma, Kanu; Paul, Susan
    Uttaranchal is a new state and there is dire need to popularize its art and beauty and to expose the in-house captivated designer‟s skill to the outside world by integrating the traditionally restricted Kumauni folk design into new textile experimentation. The present study was an initial step in the direction of creating textile designs, using traditional folk designs of Uttranchal by the use of CAD and to make value added products by using natural dyes. The survey was carried out to get more detailed information of Kumauni designs and to develop new designs by taking inspiration from traditional designs.Thirty designs were prepared i.e. ten each for shawls, jackets and stoles,out of which two best designs for each category were selected for product development. Wool yarns used for product development were dyed with natural dyes to make them value added and the sources of natural dyes used were Kilmora roots (Berberies vulgaries), Cutch wood (Acacia catechu), Annatto seeds (Bixa orillana), Coleus leaves (Coleus blumei) and Walnut bark (Juglan regia). Six products namely shawls, jackets and stoles were prepared by weaving technique. The designs were incorporated through weft yarn figuring using natural dyed yarn. The undyed woolen yarns were used as warp threads in all products. Cost for articles was also calculated and were in the range of Rs 330 to Rs 475. The developed designs and products were accessed by the entrepreneurs of woolen products for its marketability. In their opinion the designs are in line with new trends and if popularized, these designs will give the state of Uttaranchal a place in fashion world