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ThesisItem Embargo A Study on Dyeing Practices and Sustainable Strategies Adopted by Dyeing Units in Ludhiana(Punjab Agricultural University, 2024) Khushpreet Kaur; Dr. Surabhi MahajanThe present investigation was planned to study the current dyeing practices and sustainable strategies adopted by dyeing units in Ludhiana and also to explore the problems faced by them in becoming sustainable. Twenty five dyeing units were selected purposively. A survey was conducted and data was collected by administering a mix of interview schedules to the Heads of the dyeing units or their Executive Managers. Statistical tools like frequency, percentages, mean, chi-square, and analysis of variance (ANOVA) were used for data analysis. The findings of the study revealed that majority of dyeing units were medium-sized and were established in the 1990s and early 2000s. The main clusters of these units were located at BahadurKe Road, Tajpur road, Focal Point, and Industrial Area – A of Ludhiana city. The results pointed out that the majority (76%) of units was dyeing cotton fabric and reactive dyes were used by a key share of them (92%). The most popular dyeing machine used was soft flow dyeing machine. Seventy-two percent of dyeing units were aware of waterless dyeing technology, but none had adopted it. No unit was using eco friendly dyes and auxiliaries. However, majority of units (52%) recycled the waste produced in their unit. Forty-eight percent of units were ISO 14000 certified, and only 32 percent were eco-label certified. Three common ETPs with a total capacity of handling 105 million litres per day of water had been installed in Ludhiana at different locations, and all the selected dyeing units were taking advantage of this facility. The study found that 56 percent of dyeing units were aware of Corporate Social Responsibility and the major problem faced by them with highest mean 4.6 was regarding lack of legislation for meeting sustainable goals. The study concludes that the dyeing industry in Ludhiana is making progress towards sustainability, but there is still a long way to go.ThesisItem Embargo Development of utility articles through simulation of gold and silver hand embroidery(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Singla, Rochana; Grewal, SumeetThe investigation entitled “Development of utility articles through simulation of gold and silver hand embroidery” was carried out in Ludhiana city. For simulation ten motifs of gold and silver hand embroidery were selected from documented twenty five motifs and five utility articles were selected for development based upon the preferences of a panel of judges. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data regarding awareness and preferences for developing utility articles using gold and silver machine embroidery from 96 female respondents between the age group of 20-60 years selected randomly from four localities of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were post-graduation, home makers and belonged to the nuclear families and had an income range between Rs 50,001–1,00,000. Majority of the respondents were aware of gold and silver hand embroidery and possessed articles made from them. Based upon the preferences of the respondents for developing the utility articles, four designs of each utility article were created in COREL DRAW X7 and one best design in each category was selected by a panel of judges for product development. To study the cost effectiveness, the cost price was computed and the selling price were calculated by adding thirty percent profit. A sub-sample of thirty two respondents were randomly selected to study the consumer acceptance and cost effectiveness of the developed articles. The results showed that majority of the respondents liked the utility articles for their suitability, design, color combination, embellishments and overall impact and gave ranks to the articles accordingly. The table mat was ranked first, followed by wall hanging at second rank and third rank was given to cushion cover on the basis of the overall impact. Majority of the respondents found the quoted price appropriate for cushion cover, hand bag and mobile holder whereas the price of wall hanging and table mat were considered high. The average selling price calculated after considering the price quoted by the respondents showed that the profit margin has to be decreased by 4-12 percent in some cases. But when these articles will be produced at commercial level, the cost of production will reduce and the profit margins will increase. So, the articles were considered to be commercially viable and acceptable to the consumers.ThesisItem Open Access Visual merchandising practices of the apparel retail stores in Ludhiana City(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Khushpreet Kaur; Saini, Harminder KaurThe present investigation was planned to study the visual merchandising practices of apparel retail stores in Ludhiana city. The survey regarding visual merchandising practices of apparel retail stores was conducted in four zones of Ludhiana. For the selection of apparel retail stores and customers, random sampling technique was used. Ten apparel retail stores from each zone (total 40) were selected randomly. Then out of these stores, five stores from each zone (total 20) were again taken for the selection of customers. A total of 120 customers were selected (6 customers each from 20 apparel retail stores) to collect the information regarding influence of visual merchandising elements on their buying behaviour. An interview schedule and information recording sheet were used for collecting data. The results indicated that majority of retailers belonged to age group of 20- 30 years and most of them were male visual merchandisers. Majority of the retail stores (72.50%) sell the men‟s clothing. Most of retail stores (82.5 %) had less than 5000 sq. ft area followed by 10 percent of retail stores which had area between 5000 to 10,000 sq. ft. The most significant criteria of visual merchandising was theme presentation, which was ranked first with weighted mean score of 5.9. Majority of the selected retail stores (93%) changed their window display after a week. It was reported that all the apparel retail stores used fixtures such as display racks and mannequins for displaying products followed by 92.50 and 47.50 percent of the stores which used grids and gondola shelves also, respectively. Around 55 percent of retail stores categorized their merchandise according to the size of product followed by 22.50 percent of the retailers, who assort their merchandise on colour basis. Visual merchandising entails strategies for attracting customers into a business in order to boost footfalls, which was ranked first by respondents with weighted mean score of 4.9. Around 37.50 percent of retailers stated that the budget for visual merchandising activities must be decided by the store. Around 35 percent of the retailers were inspired from their past experiences followed by 25 percent of retailers, who were inspired by the particular websites. It was also observed that majority of respondents (65%) face the problem of less time and space followed by the problem of social ethics and political constraints while implementing visual merchandising in the store. An equal percentage of male and female respondents were taken to study their buying behaviour based on visual merchandising. Most of the consumers were always compelled by eye catching window display and creative storefront theme displays. Consumers evaluate the store on the basis of comfortable shopping and easy accessibility of products to them. Further, it was found that most of the consumers always get excited while making impulsive purchase. Arrangement of products in the store according to colour combination always attract the consumers. Consumers eagerly buy the products during promotional offerings. Females were more influenced by store atmospherics, layout and window displays.ThesisItem Open Access Retail Marketing Practices of Designer Fashion Studios in Ludhiana City(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Narula, Tanisha; Grewal, SumeetThe present research work was conducted to study the retail marketing practices of designer fashion studios in Ludhiana city. The study was conducted in various fashion studios located in Ludhiana. From thirty five randomly selected fashion studios, 15 were further selected for studying their retail marketing practices through case study method. For this an interview schedule was prepared to collect data from the managers and sales staff of each studio regarding planogram, retail and marketing strategies and customer facilities offered by them. The results of the investigation were interpreted using percentages and mean score. The results revealed that the designer fashion studios were owned by designers out of which, 46% were females and 40% were males and 14% percent were couples and majority of them were graduates. Most of the studios used collaborative method of customisation followed by deep assortment strategy. Also, the products were displayed on the basis of product type. The store layout followed by majority of the studios was herringbone and the interior of the studio included fixtures such as display racks and mannequins whereas the colour scheme followed by most of them was complementary. The lights used were mostly ambient followed by functional props, and outdoor signages. The unique selling point for the studios was quality of the products and well maintained store environment. Also 80 percent of the studios followed visual merchandising and the frequency of changing the display was after every 15 days and was mostly managed by designers themselves. The results also showed that most of them spent less than Rs 5000 per month on marketing. The factors that were considered important for promotion of a product were fluctuating consumer’s preferences, consistent marketing and messaging and online marketing being more effective as well as less expensive. Also, various factors such as dynamic nature of retailing, customer oriented marketing etc. were considered important. The raw material was sourced by majority of them from wholesalers, mostly from local markets. The inventory control was done manually by most of the studios and 20 % of them only faced stock shortage due to variability in demand. Also, the stock was replenished as and when required. Most of them had in-house activities for various processes and few of them outsourced some of the activities. Most of them used Instagram to update their collections and content on daily basis. Very few studios had their own website to update and sell their merchandise online. Only one of them had augmented reality feature installed in the studio. Majority of them provided sales staff training whenever required and it was mostly given by designers themselves. Many customer facilities were also provided by the studios like free parking, trial rooms and rest rooms. The customer feedback was taken on feedback booklet. On the basis of the findings, some improvements have been suggested for the studios to enhance their retailing and marketing skills in order to boost their business and attract more customers.ThesisItem Restricted Status of Ludhiana Knitwear Industry using Elastane Blends(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Simran; Kapila, PrernaThe present study was conducted on a sample of 40 micro, small and medium manufacturing units using elastane yarn as a raw material. Random sampling technique was used to select the industries after obtaining the relevant data from District Industries Center, Ludhiana. The data was collected from owners of the industries using a self-structured interview schedule and the results were analysed using percentages, arithmetic mean and weighted mean score. Majority of units belonged to small scale and were started with an initial investment of approximately Rs. one lakh and worked as a proprietorship firm. Stitching was an operation performed in house by all the industries, closely followed by designing of garments performed in-house by 80 percent of industries and knitting performed in-house by 45 % industries. It was seen that only 45 per cent of the units were product specific manufacturing units and 90 per cent units did low cost mass production. The most commonly produced apparel using elastane was tshirt and 80 per cent of the units were manufacturing under their own brand name. The level of certification among industry was extremely low and profit margins were only 5-10 per cent 70 per cent of the units. The export was done to countries like Dubai, Europe, U.S.A and Canada. High fluctuation in prices of raw material and delayed payment from buyers along with instability of skilled labour and high cost of electricity were some of the most prominent challenges faced by the industry.ThesisItem Restricted Refashioning the hand woven Manipuri Phanek with Phulkari embroidery(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2021) Saikhom Debina Chanu; Grewal, SumeetThe present study entitled “Refashioning the hand woven Manipuri phanek with phulkari embroidery” was conducted in Ludhiana and Manipur city. The researcher documented ten traditional Manipuri phaneks and studied their significance. Fifteen phulkari motifs were selected according to their suitability for being used on the phaneks. A total of ten phulkari designs were developed using different motifs and colour combination on computer using COREL DRAW X8. Three different colour combinations for each design were developed and the design having the highest weighted mean score for design placement and highest modal frequency for colour combination were selected by the panel of ten judges. Thus, the five best designs were finalised for preparing phulkari embroidered phaneks. The phaneks were prepared by embroidering phulkari motifs with pat thread in different colours according to the designs finalised. For studying the consumer acceptance of prepared phaneks, an interview schedule were prepared to record the preferences of the eighty college going students i.e.40 from Punjab and 40 from Manipur. The consumers preferred phanek P1 for suitability of combination of motif, phanek P2 for colour combination and phanek P 3for uniqueness of design, wokmanship of embroidery and overall appearance. Phanek P1 was the most preferred from the respondents of both the states of Punjab and Manipur. Cost evaluation was done by adding thirty percent profit to cost price and selling price was calculated. Majority of the respondents found the selling price as appropriate. Hence, phulkari embroidered phaneks hold a good commercial potential and are economically viable.ThesisItem Open Access Designing a line of tunics inspired from inlay work(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2020) Bhardwaj, Himani; Brar, KanwaljitThe study entitled’ Designing a line of tunics inspired from inlay work’ was carried out to explore the possibility of using inlay work motifs for designing tunics. The motifs of inlay work were digitally documented from religious monuments and buildings of three districts of Punjab and other secondary sources. Thirty motifs comprising of ten motifs in each category of stylized floral, geometrical and stylized animal/bird inlay motifs were selected from documented motifs. Top ten motifs were selected by the investigator for developing the designs of tunics based on preferences of ten experts. Twenty tunics were designed with top ten selected inlay motifs using CorelDraw X6. Information about the preferential choice of ninety college-going girls, randomly selected from three colleges of Ludhiana city, regarding various design features of tunics was collected through survey method. The findings revealed that tubular silhouette (mean score 5.42) was most preferred followed by the A-line silhouette (mean score 4.83). Most of the girls preferred band finished (mean score 5.63) and boat necklines (mean score 5.51) over round neck (mean score 3.82) and square neck (mean score 3.16). Ankle length tunics (mean score 2.7) with straight sleeves (mean score 6.97) in cotton fabric of cool and warm colours were highly preferred by the respondents. Most liked rendering technique was machine embroidery (53.00%) in combination with swarovski (mean score 6.74) and beads (mean score 5.26). Based on the preferential choices of the girls, six tunics were prepared using inlay motifs with machine embroidery technique. Evaluation of designed tunics was done by a sub-sample of thirty respondents. The most preferred tunic on the basis of silhouette was D5 (Mean score 4.6) which obtained first rank. Tunic D8 (mean score 5.2) was most preferred for the embellishments used. Both D5 and D8 tunics were most preferred for overall appeal. Quoted selling price of prepared tunic D5 was observed as adequate by most of the respondents (76.67 %). The profit percentage from minimum 20.40 per cent to maximum 26.67 per cent might be possible through commercial production of tunics. Mass production of tunics can reduce the cost of production.ThesisItem Open Access Development of macramé dresses using textile waste(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2019) Verma, Pratishtha; Mahajan, SurabhiThis study was a step towards utilisation of textile waste material to construct dresses with macramé technique. Textile waste like cotton and wool threads, satin ribbon, artificial leather, drawstrings, shoe laces etc. was collected from homes, tailor’s shop and industries in Ludhiana. Twelve macramé samples of size 5 x 5 inches were made from the collected textile waste material. A panel of fifteen members was constituted from Department of Apparel and Textile Science and Family Resource Management PAU, Ludhiana to select five textile waste materials for construction of dresses. According to weighted mean score, cotton thread, chiffon fabric, artificial leather, wool thread and satin ribbon were selected for construction of dresses. Two pencil sketches for macramé dresses were made for each selected textile material. A questionnaire was developed and administered on ninety college going girls in three colleges of Ludhiana city. The questionnaire aimed at collecting background information of the respondents and their awareness about macramé technique, preference for dress sketches, length, colour combination and embellishment of the macramé dresses to be developed. Majority of the respondents were aware about this technique and preferred sleeveless, knee length and multi-coloured macramé dresses embellished with beads and buttons. The dresses were constructed on 34˝ size dress form and their cost price was calculated which included cost of textile material wherever applicable, lining, embellishment and cut make trim. A profit percent of 40 was added to cost of each dress to calculate the estimated selling price which lied in the range ₹ 1,200 - ₹ 2,200. To ascertain the suitability of the estimated selling price and overall appeal of the constructed dresses, a second questionnaire was developed and administered in the sample space with a sample size of 30. Cotton thread and artificial leather dress was adjudged as excellent by the respondents, while dress made from wool thread was assessed as very good and dresses constructed from chiffon and satin ribbon were considered as good. The estimated selling price of all the constructed macramé dresses was considered appropriate except for artificial leather dress which was adjudged as low priced. Hence, the dresses developed from textile waste using macramé technique were cost-effective and aesthetically appealing. Thus, development of such dresses can be taken up on a mass scale for earning money.ThesisItem Restricted Development of knitted fabric from blend of soy silk and waste wool fiber(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2019) Tewari, Srishti; Mahajan, SurabhiThe study aimed at constructing knitted fabrics from blend of soy silk and waste wool fiber. Blending of soy silk and waste wool fiber was done in the ratio 20:80, 30:70 and 50:50 using roving method and 10 kg of fiber mix was prepared for each blend. Both worsted and woollen spinning system were used to spin the blended slivers. The yarn count varied with the blend ratio. The yarn with blend ratio 20:80 had a count 2/18, yarn with blend ratio 30:70 was a single ply yarn with a count 1/10 and blend ratio 50:50 had a yarn count of 1/0.50. The developed blended yarns were tested for selected physical and mechanical properties. On the basis of test results and aesthetic appeal of blended yarns, the yarns with blend ratio of 20:80 and 30:70 were used to construct weft knitted fabrics. Each blended yarn was knitted into both single and double knitted structures. The fabrics developed were shown to a panel of experts from knitting industry and academia. The weft knitted fabrics were found suitable for both apparel and upholstery applications. In apparel, the fabrics were suggested to be used for making sweaters, cardigans, kids wear, socks, caps and t-shirts. The developed fabrics were also found suitable for cushion covers and table linens in upholstery. The yarn with blend ratio 50:50 was found suitable for making blankets, khes, durries and carpets. The cost of the developed fabric from blend ratio 20:80 and 30:70 was ₹ 285.71 and ₹ 228.57 per metre respectively. The developed blended yarns and fabrics were also analysed for their production feasibility by taking expert opinion and ranking them on a 3 point scale. All the developed fabrics were found to feasible for commercial production and their probable acceptance of consumer acceptability also came out to be high when they were evaluated against set parameters. Thus, the developed fabrics are recommended to be taken for commercial production in knitting industries.