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Study on export scenario of knitwear units of Ludhiana in comparison to Tirupur
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2019) Lotika; Saini, Harminder Kaur
The present research was conducted to study the export scenario of knitwear units of Ludhiana in comparison to Tirupur. Thirty units each were selected from both the districts through random sampling technique. An interview schedule was formed and pre-tested on 10 non-sample units. The data collected from the units was analysed using percentages, Chi square test and Z test for proportions. It was found that maximum percentage of the units in Ludhiana were small sized and in Tirupur were medium sized. Majority of units in both the places had a turnover below `100 crores. More than 80 per cent of the units were exporting their products to foreign markets. Production capacity of knitwear units at Ludhiana and Tirupur was less than 3 lakh pieces per month. Almost 50 per cent of the units at both the places were mid price clothing companies and low cost mass producers, respectively. For designing, sketches received from foreign buyers and fashion shows were ranked first, as a source of inspiration, by knitwear export units of Ludhiana and Tirupur, respectively. During peak periods, capacity utilization was 90-100 per cent by 80 and 50 per cent of the units whereas in lean period it was 70-80 and 60-70 per cent by more than 36 per cent of the knitwear units at Ludhiana and Tirupur, respectively. Majority of the units at both the places used cotton, polyester and lycra as raw material. In - house training to the workers was provided by 83 and 41 per cent of the knitwear units in Ludhiana and Tirupur, respectively. In Ludhiana, 63.33 per cent of the units used CAD/CAM machines to reduce fabric wastage while majority of units (96.67%) in Tirupur used organic cotton in their product line as an eco friendly concept. Ludhiana as well as Tirupur ranked one to one meeting with buyers as the best channel for promoting their products in export markets. Banks were used as source of capital by majority of the units in Ludhiana and Tirupur (93.33 and 80.00 %). Main markets for Ludhiana exporters were USA and Middle East whereas for Tirupur major destination countries for export were USA and UK. More than 80 per cent of the units at Ludhiana and Tirupur negotiated with the buyer to determine the pricing. Lead time of 30-60 days was required by most of the units at both the places. Letter of credit was main payment term used by more than 66 per cent of the units at Ludhiana and Tirupur. Major reason for rejection of the order was non conformance to the buyers‘ specifications in Ludhiana while delay in production or shipment was responsible for consignment rejection in Tirupur. In Ludhiana, the most serious impediments were high or fluctuating prices of raw material, costly machinery and rapid up gradation of the machinery, unskilled labour, high rate of interest, high cost of power and competition from other countries, while in Tirupur, these were low quality of raw material, injuries to human health, unskilled labour and scarcity of power.
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A situational analysis of powerloom industry : micro, small and medium enterprises of Ludhiana
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Singh, Garima; Brar, Kanwaljit Kaur
The present study was conducted on a sample of 128 micro, small and medium enterprises, comprising of all the micro and medium powerloom enterprises enlisted in the list of DIC, Ludhiana and seventy-six small enterprises selected through purposive probability proportional to size sampling technique, in purposively selected Industrial Area A and Focal Point areas of Ludhiana district as the clusters of powerloom MSMEs existed there. The data collected from owners/managers of the units using self-structured interview schedulewere analysed using percentages, mean score and chi-square test. In powerloom MSMEs of Ludhiana, acrylic yarn (97.65 %) was the most popularly used raw material for woven goods. All the MSMEs procured the yarn from local sources as high-quality man-made and blended yarns were readily available in the local market. Maximum percentage of the MSMEs (78.90%) had installed plain looms with jacquard attachment for structural designs. Among all MSMEs, only 12.05 per cent units had electronic looms with jacquard attachment and just 7.81 per cent possessed fully computerized looms with dobby attachmentwhich had higher production capacity. Out of 39 MSMEs, 38.46 per cent had imported new looms from Italy. Nearly 60.00 per cent of the powerloom MSMEs operated throughout the year. Still a considerable percentage of units (40.61%) had main production period from July-December. All the MSMEs performed the pre-loom activities like winding to weaving, and more than 60.00 per cent of them were also designing and finishing the products. Cutting (14.06%), printing (7.03%) and stitching (14.47%) activities were performed by low percentage of small enterprises and half of the medium enterprises carried out all the postloom activities. Men‘s yardage for shirting and suiting (64.85%), women‘s suit yardage (87.5%) and different types of shawls such as plain, jamawar (39.06) and embroidered shawls (29.68%) were manufactured by MSMEs. Most of the MSMEs had not ventured into forward vertical integration and value addition of the products due to lack of funds and low managerial capacities. Maximum percentage of the MSMEs (53.12%) could earn 5-10 per cent profit followed by 35.93 per cent owners who gained 10-15 per cent profit in their business. Majority of the MSME owners (87.50%) were found to be well acquainted about government schemes. All unit owners were aware of Margin Money Subsidy Scheme, yet only 37.50 per cent of them were availing its benefits due to time consuming and cumbersome process. Stiff market competition offered by large enterprises was a challenge for all the medium powerloom enterprises. Perennial problems of powerloom MSMEs of Ludhiana such as hiked prices of yarn, old weaving technology, soaring cost of labour, low profit margin and market recession still persist. Concrete policy framework, government‘s intervention and help to the industry can boost its performance.
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Construction of knitted fabrics using different blends of oak tasar waste/viscose fibre
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Pooja; Bains, Sandeep
The present study entitled “Construction of knitted fabrics using different blends of oak tasar waste/viscose fibre” was carried out with the objectives, to develop blended yarns from oak tasar waste/viscose fibres, to determine the physical and mechanical properties of the developed blended yarns, to construct the knitted fabrics and to study their physical and mechanical properties and to suggest suitable end uses for the oak tasar waste/viscose blended knitted fabrics. Blending of oak tasar silk waste and viscose fibres was done in the ratio of 60:40, 50:50 and 40:60. The draw frame blending method was adopted and the requisite amount of each fibre was combined on weight basis using worsted spinning system. Yarns of 15 Nm and 20 Nm were spun for each proportion. On the basis of yarn evenness, yarn strength and yarn moisture regain, four optimum blended yarns were selected for the development of fabrics and were knitted on a circular knitting machine. Physical and mechanical properties of the developed fabrics were studied. Subjective evaluation was carried out to analyze the hand values, end uses of the developed fabrics and the performance of developed fabrics in textile industry. It was observed that, 80 per cent judges preferred fabric S3 with excellent smoothness rating, 53.3 per cent judges preferred fabricS4 for softness with excellent rating, 66.7 per cent judges preferred fabricS3 in case of uniformity with excellent uniformity rating.40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 15 Nm exhibited best results for fabric pilling, tensile strength and elongation, snagging resistance, bending length and fabric spirality. Whereas 40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 20 Nm exhibited best results for drapability, GSM, bursting strength and flat abrasion resistance. Also 60% OTW:40% viscose blended fabric of 20 Nm showed best results for elastic properties and thermal insulation. 40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 15 Nm depicted highest rating for smoothness, uniformity, tactile sensation, aesthetic appearance and total hand value. Shrugs, ponchos, stoles and tops and tunics are the most suitable end uses for the fabrics made from 15Nm and 20 Nm blended fabrics while quilt covers, khes/light weight top sheet and bed sheet are the most suitable home textiles that could be made from these fabrics. The cost of the fabric reduced with the reduction of silk proportion in the yarn.
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Socio-psychological aspects of intergenerational transition of trousseau practices among women of Punjab (Malwa region)
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Manideep Kaur; Saini, Harminder Kaur
The present research was carried on “Socio-psychological aspects of intergenerational transition of trousseau practices among women of Punjab (Malwa region)”. The study was conducted in the three cities viz: Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda from Malwa region of Punjab. A purposive sampling technique was used to select the families having two generations together. A total of 300 respondents comprising of 50 respondents from first generation and 50 respondents from second generation from each of the three selected cities were taken for the study. An interview schedule was developed for obtaining the relevant information. The results were analyzed by using appropriate statistical tools like frequency, percentage, Z test and mean scores. It was found that 71 percent of the respondents from first generation belonged to age group of 50-60 years and 78 percent of second generation respondents belongs to 20-30 years of age group. The education was found to be upto matriculation level for most of the first generation respondents and majority of the second generation respondents were postgraduate. It was noticed that majority of the first and second generation respondents had joint family. It was seen that majority of parents had arranged the marriage of the first and second generation respondents. Parents were responsible for taking decision regarding planning and purchase of trousseau. Magazines and newspapers were the main source of inspiration for the first generation for trousseau with mean score of 4.93 and 4.67, whereas, wedding events were the main source of inspiration for second generation respondents with mean score of 5.03, respectively. Family members were found to be the main influencing force in both the generations for trousseau planning. Price was the most important factor considered by first generation respondents while purchasing trousseau articles, whereas, in style and innovative style were important factors considered by second generation. Specialty stores were used for purchasing of trousseau articles and given first rank by both I and II generation respondents. Maximum of the first generation respondents opted for salwar suit and second generation preferred lehnga choli as a wedding dress. Most of the first generation brides (79.3%) were in favour of customized stitching (tailor) and second generation respondents preferred designer dress. Phulkaris and sweaters were least considered by second generation respondents for their trousseau. The purchase of trousseau articles from local shops were preferred by first generation respondents, whereas, shopping from the out of city and state shops were opted by second generation brides. Expenditure on trousseau was found to be between Rs. 1-3 lac by first generation respondents (62.7%) and in case of second generation, it was upto Rs. 7-9 lac, respectively. Social pressure and availability of fashion dresses were considered as major reason for changing trousseau practices by majority of the first and second generation respondents, respectively. Less than Rs. 5 lac as total expenditure on marriage was reported by majority of first generation respondents, whereas, more than Rs.30 lac on marriage was reported by 60.7 percent of second generation respondents, respectively. Social pressure, indebtedness, bankruptcy, late marriage etc. were the various consequences reported due to high expenditure on marriage.
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Blending of mulberry silk waste/viscose fibre for construction of knitted fabrics
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Bajaj, Shikha; Bains, Sandeep
The present review examines various properties of yarns and knitted fabrics developed by blending mulberry silk waste and viscose fibres in different proportions. Yarns and fabrics were formed by blending at gillbox stage and spinning was carried out on worsted spinning system and blending ratios formed included 60:40, 50:50 and 40:60 for Mulberry silk waste: Viscose proportions. All the proportions were spun into 15 and 20 metric counts (Nm). Yarn blended in proportion of 50% Mulberry silk: 50% viscose and 40% Mulberry silk: 60% viscose were found suitable for fabric development, in both 15 Nm and 20 Nm yarn counts due to less unevenness, cost benefits and high single yarn strength. Developed knitted fabrics blended in proportion of 50% Mulberry silk: 50% viscose in 20 Nm count and 40% Mulberry silk: 60% viscose in 15 Nm count, in single jersey construction on circular knitting machine were found suitable for commercial production due to highest thermal insulation, less shrinkage, good drapability, less spirality per centage, high tensile strength properties and lower production cost. Knitted fabrics can be used for development of tops and tunics, T shirts and polos, sweaters, ponchos, stole, shrugs, muffler, childrens’ pant and light weight top sheets. Fabric blended in composition of 40% mulberry silk: 60% viscose was found to be most appropriate for apparel production due to higher values of thermal insulation, lower shrinkage and tensile strength properties. Cost of blended fabrics were much less as compared to pure silk fabrics and thus found to be suitable for large scale production.
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Effect of ultraviolet absorbers and dyeing on ultraviolet protection through mercerized cotton fabric
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Sushila; Bains, Sandeep
The present study entitled “Effect of ultraviolet absorbers and dyeing on ultraviolet protection through mercerized cotton fabric” was carried out in Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. The study was conducted to explore the effects of application of benzophenone UV absorbers in combination with reactive dyes on mercerized cotton fabric. Benzophenone-6 and Benzophenone-2 were selected for the UV treatment of the fabric. UV treatment conditions were optimised on the basis of ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). Treatment parameters optimized for both UV absorbers included Na2CO3 pre-treatment pH, treatment temperature, treatment time and UV absorber concentration. Pre-treatment at pH of 10 at 700C temperature found optimum for Benzophenone-6. For Benzophenone-2 optimum results were obtained at pre-treatment pH of 11 at temperature of 750C. Both UV absorbers gave best results when UV treatment was done for 35 minutes using 2% concentration. For dyeing, four hot reactive dyes and four cold reactive dyes were selected. Dyeing parameters optimized included dyeing pH, temperature, time and dye concentration. The conditions were optimized on the basis of CIE Lab and K/S values. The results revealed that for cold reactive dyes optimum pH was found between 9-10 pH and for hot reactive dyes optimum pH was observed between 10-11 pH. For all the hot reactive dyes optimum temperatures was found to be 800C.Optimum dyeing was achieved when dyeing was done for 60-70 minutes for all the reactive dye. Optimized dye concentration for all the dyes was 5%. After dyeing and treatment, the samples were assessed for physical, mechanical and comfort properties. Subsequent to UV treatment and dyeing, Colour fastnesses properties and effect of consecutive laundering on UV treated-dyed fabric was also studied. Both the UV absorbers provided acceptable levels of ultraviolet protection. Highest UPF rating was achieved for sample dyed with Reactive Red 120 dye in combination with Benzophenone-6. Significant changes in physical properties were recorded but it did not affect fabric’s appearance negatively. For mechanical properties, an increase in % elongation was observed but it did not affect dyed-UV treated fabric’s strength negatively. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis of control fabric and untreated-dyed fabrics were performed to assess the morphological changes and chemical changes, respectively.
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Documentation of costumes of Bagri community through three generations
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Mamta; Saini, Harminder Kaur
The investigation entitled “Documentation of costumes of Bagri community through three generations” was carried out in two states namely, Punjab and Rajasthan. From Punjab, two districts, namely Muktsar and Fazilka and similarly from Rajasthan, two districts, namely Hanumangarh and Sri Ganganagar were selected for the study. A purposive sampling technique was used to select families having three generations of either male or female. A total of 360 respondents comprising 45 male and 45 female from each of the four selected districts were taken. The age of the 1st generation was 65 years and above, 2nd generation was between 45-65 years and that of the 3rd generation was in the age group of 25-45 years. Data for the investigation were collected from the respondents with the help of interview schedule. Maximum of the respondents in the first generation were illiterate, second generation studied up to matric level and respondents (both male and female) of third generation were graduate. The results of the study revealed that majority of the Bagri male respondents were engaged in farming and female respondents were housewives, respectively. Majority of the respondents (male and female) belonged to other backward class and had monthly family income between Rs 10,001-15,000. The Bagri males through three generations wore coat, kurta shirt, sherwani (upper garments), chadar, dhoti, designer dhoti pajama, pant (lower garments), potio, pagri, topi (headdresses), phenta and stole (wrap). Almost all the male respondents of three generations of both, Punjab and Rajasthan had similar type of upper and lower garments and headdresses, but there was difference in fabric choice and length of upper garments. The respondents of both states preferred neutral and warm colours for casual and ceremonial headdresses, respectively. Men wore very few jewellery. Silver metal was preferred by first generation whereas gold and silver metals were used by second and third generation of Punjab and Rajasthan, respectively. Bagri females through three generations wore aangi, blouse, jamper, kurti, kameez (upper garments), ghaghro, lehenga, salwar (lower garments), bugiyo, chuni, chundadi, pila and sunkukdo (headdresses). Almost all the female respondents of three generations of both, Punjab and Rajasthan had similar type of upper and lower garments and headdresses, but there was difference in the length of upper garments, fabric design and fabric choice of second and third generation, for both casual and ceremonial wear, respectively. The females of Punjab preferred bright colours while females of Rajasthan liked medium shades for upper and lower garments. In both states, the headdress of females were embellished with zari work, gota kinari and salama/sitara. Bagri females were very fond of jewellery. They possessed many jewellery items made in gold or silver metal. Various jewellery of the females of Rajasthan and Punjab were found to be similar but in Punjab, women of second and third generation preferred gold whereas women of Rajasthan wore jewellery of both gold and silver. The difference in designs and weight of the jewellery was also noticed. Advancement in communication media, education level, greater connectivity with urban areas and occupational shift were the major factors that were responsible for change in male and female costume pattern. For the purpose of preserving the traditional costumes of Bagri culture, total five costumes were selected. The paper patterns of these selected costumes of Bagri male (kurta and coat) and female (aangi, jamper and ghaghra) were developed in Tuka Tech software using standard sizes of third generation.
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Development of textile textures from plant and agrowaste materials
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Lalita Rani; Brar, Kanwaljit
materials", was conducted to document the production processes of traditional handicrafts made from plant and agro-waste materials in rural Punjab. A sample of 180 respondents of rural women, comprising of 60 women from each of the three selected districts of Malwa region namely, Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda, who had developed traditional handicrafts in their life-time, was selected purposively. The results showed that the presently only 13.88 per cent respondents were occasionally practicing this craft. The largest percentage of respondents (28.89%) had made bohey/chhikkoo and dull (large bohiya) followed by 20.00, 19.45, 15.56, 15.00 and 11.67 per cent respondents who had made pitari(an)/sarposh(s), chhabi(an), chhaj, katnee(s) and changair from plant and waste materials. For development of textile textures, six types of plant and agro-waste materials were selected for further study. Three plant waste materials, i.e. wheat and paddy straws and date palm leaves, suitable for use in natural form were woven in plain weave and moulded in composite textures. The other three plant waste materials, i.e. ashoka and china-rose pruned stems, and corn huskssuitable for extraction of fibres by alkalization were selected. Analysis of physical parameters of extracted fibres revealed that china-rose fibres had lowest denier (69.12) and highest moisture content (12.17%) in contrast to corn husk and ashoka fibres, but highest bundle strength (24.75g/tex) was found in ashoka fibres. Six handspun blended yarns- pure ashoka fabric, ashoka/wool (50:50), pure china-rose, china-rose/cotton (50:50), corn husk/viscose rayon (70:30) and corn husk/hemp (30:70) were developed. The china-rose/cotton (50:50) blended yarn had highest elongation (3.88%) and tenacity (2.49g/tex) as compared to other yarns. The physical properties of developed hand-woven blended union fabrics were analyzed and developed ashoka (0.72s), wool (2/18)/50ashoka:50wool (1.77s), china-rose (0.73s), cotton (2/30)/50china-rose:50 cotton (2.89s), cotton (2/20)/70corn husk:30viscose rayon (0.74s) and cotton (2/20s)/30cornhusk:70hemp (1.31s) were found appropriate for home-textile and apparel products. The developed woven and moulded composite textures from straws and leaves are recommended for multiple end-uses like coaster plates, paper weights, trays, pen holders, fancy boxes besides wall tiles in interior designing, file folders and other such products.
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Role of government and non-government organisations for production and marketing of chikankari craft in Lucknow
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Agrahari, Ritu; Brar, Kanwaljit Kaur
The present study was undertaken to profile various chikankari government organisations (GOs) and non-government organisations (NGOs); compare operational set-ups adopted for production and marketing of chikankari craft; and study the problems faced by artisans. A survey was conducted from selected three GOs, ten NGOs and thirty private enterprises (PEs) who were dealing with promotion or production and sale of chikankari products in Lucknow. Another survey was conducted from 300 chikankari artisans selected randomly from five blocks namely, Bakshi Ka Talab, Kakori, Mal, Malihabad and Sarojani Nagar. The GOs and NGOs procured funds under the schemes like Babasaheb Hast Shilp Vikas Yojana, Design Skill Upgradation Programme, Marketing and Support Services, etc. and provided training to the artisans in chikankari work. A large percentage of NGOs (50.00%) had formed 70 or above Self Help Groups (SHGs). Wages were given to artisans on the basis of type of work done in maximum percentage of organisations/enterprises (58.13%). Terry voile, georgette and cambric fabrics and polyester and mercerized cotton embroidery threads were used most commonly. Kairi (mango shape), grains and creepers (bel) were most popularly used motifs. Though there were thirty two types and styles of chikankari stitches, but total twenty two of these were being used in the embroidery. Traditionally used bulbul chashma, chattaiya jali, makrajali, bangala jali, karanphool, bijli, joda stitches were no more being in use in any of the organisations/enterprises. Production activities were mainly outsourced by PEs, when the GOs and NGOs were getting the embroidery work done in the premises of organizations/centres. All the GOs and NGOs sold the products through craft bazaars, exhibitions and fairs, and had not set up their retail stores. Thus, target market segment oriented product development; regular sale and customer loyalty were negatively affected. Majority of the artisans were semi-skilled muslim women between 28 to 38 years in age. Majority of the artisans in PEs were working on contractual basis, whereas the artisans in GOs and NGOs were employed as full-time workers. Wages of artisans in PEs were paid on piece rate basis, whereas artisans in GOs and NGOs received their payment both on piece rate basis as well monthly basis. Maximum percentage of artisans in GOs, NGOs and PEs had meagre monthly income of `1500- 2000. Daily wages given to skilled artisans were just `120-150/month. Low wages in relation to intricacy and skill of work and late payment were the major financial issues of the artisans. No artisans got the medical benefits from any of the organisations/enterprises. They were vulnerable to exploitation due to poor marketing intelligence (29.00%), and irregular orders (10.67%). Organisation of trainings, inclusion of the craft in the school curriculum, schemes for artisan’s economic security, entrepreneurship development, promotion and strengthning of market linkages, wage enhancement, special awards for young artisans may help in empowering the artisans and promotion of craft.

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