Development of textile textures from plant and agrowaste materials
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Date
2018
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Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana
Abstract
materials", was conducted to document the production processes of traditional handicrafts
made from plant and agro-waste materials in rural Punjab. A sample of 180 respondents of
rural women, comprising of 60 women from each of the three selected districts of Malwa
region namely, Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda, who had developed traditional handicrafts in
their life-time, was selected purposively. The results showed that the presently only 13.88 per
cent respondents were occasionally practicing this craft. The largest percentage of
respondents (28.89%) had made bohey/chhikkoo and dull (large bohiya) followed by 20.00,
19.45, 15.56, 15.00 and 11.67 per cent respondents who had made pitari(an)/sarposh(s),
chhabi(an), chhaj, katnee(s) and changair from plant and waste materials. For development
of textile textures, six types of plant and agro-waste materials were selected for further study.
Three plant waste materials, i.e. wheat and paddy straws and date palm leaves, suitable for
use in natural form were woven in plain weave and moulded in composite textures. The other
three plant waste materials, i.e. ashoka and china-rose pruned stems, and corn huskssuitable
for extraction of fibres by alkalization were selected. Analysis of physical parameters of
extracted fibres revealed that china-rose fibres had lowest denier (69.12) and highest moisture
content (12.17%) in contrast to corn husk and ashoka fibres, but highest bundle strength
(24.75g/tex) was found in ashoka fibres. Six handspun blended yarns- pure ashoka fabric,
ashoka/wool (50:50), pure china-rose, china-rose/cotton (50:50), corn husk/viscose rayon
(70:30) and corn husk/hemp (30:70) were developed. The china-rose/cotton (50:50) blended
yarn had highest elongation (3.88%) and tenacity (2.49g/tex) as compared to other yarns. The
physical properties of developed hand-woven blended union fabrics were analyzed and
developed ashoka (0.72s), wool (2/18)/50ashoka:50wool (1.77s), china-rose (0.73s), cotton
(2/30)/50china-rose:50 cotton (2.89s), cotton (2/20)/70corn husk:30viscose rayon (0.74s) and
cotton (2/20s)/30cornhusk:70hemp (1.31s) were found appropriate for home-textile and
apparel products. The developed woven and moulded composite textures from straws and
leaves are recommended for multiple end-uses like coaster plates, paper weights, trays, pen
holders, fancy boxes besides wall tiles in interior designing, file folders and other such
products.
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