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ThesisItem Restricted A situational analysis of powerloom industry : micro, small and medium enterprises of Ludhiana(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Singh, Garima; Brar, Kanwaljit KaurThe present study was conducted on a sample of 128 micro, small and medium enterprises, comprising of all the micro and medium powerloom enterprises enlisted in the list of DIC, Ludhiana and seventy-six small enterprises selected through purposive probability proportional to size sampling technique, in purposively selected Industrial Area A and Focal Point areas of Ludhiana district as the clusters of powerloom MSMEs existed there. The data collected from owners/managers of the units using self-structured interview schedulewere analysed using percentages, mean score and chi-square test. In powerloom MSMEs of Ludhiana, acrylic yarn (97.65 %) was the most popularly used raw material for woven goods. All the MSMEs procured the yarn from local sources as high-quality man-made and blended yarns were readily available in the local market. Maximum percentage of the MSMEs (78.90%) had installed plain looms with jacquard attachment for structural designs. Among all MSMEs, only 12.05 per cent units had electronic looms with jacquard attachment and just 7.81 per cent possessed fully computerized looms with dobby attachmentwhich had higher production capacity. Out of 39 MSMEs, 38.46 per cent had imported new looms from Italy. Nearly 60.00 per cent of the powerloom MSMEs operated throughout the year. Still a considerable percentage of units (40.61%) had main production period from July-December. All the MSMEs performed the pre-loom activities like winding to weaving, and more than 60.00 per cent of them were also designing and finishing the products. Cutting (14.06%), printing (7.03%) and stitching (14.47%) activities were performed by low percentage of small enterprises and half of the medium enterprises carried out all the postloom activities. Men‘s yardage for shirting and suiting (64.85%), women‘s suit yardage (87.5%) and different types of shawls such as plain, jamawar (39.06) and embroidered shawls (29.68%) were manufactured by MSMEs. Most of the MSMEs had not ventured into forward vertical integration and value addition of the products due to lack of funds and low managerial capacities. Maximum percentage of the MSMEs (53.12%) could earn 5-10 per cent profit followed by 35.93 per cent owners who gained 10-15 per cent profit in their business. Majority of the MSME owners (87.50%) were found to be well acquainted about government schemes. All unit owners were aware of Margin Money Subsidy Scheme, yet only 37.50 per cent of them were availing its benefits due to time consuming and cumbersome process. Stiff market competition offered by large enterprises was a challenge for all the medium powerloom enterprises. Perennial problems of powerloom MSMEs of Ludhiana such as hiked prices of yarn, old weaving technology, soaring cost of labour, low profit margin and market recession still persist. Concrete policy framework, government‘s intervention and help to the industry can boost its performance.ThesisItem Restricted Construction of knitted fabrics using different blends of oak tasar waste/viscose fibre(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Pooja; Bains, SandeepThe present study entitled “Construction of knitted fabrics using different blends of oak tasar waste/viscose fibre” was carried out with the objectives, to develop blended yarns from oak tasar waste/viscose fibres, to determine the physical and mechanical properties of the developed blended yarns, to construct the knitted fabrics and to study their physical and mechanical properties and to suggest suitable end uses for the oak tasar waste/viscose blended knitted fabrics. Blending of oak tasar silk waste and viscose fibres was done in the ratio of 60:40, 50:50 and 40:60. The draw frame blending method was adopted and the requisite amount of each fibre was combined on weight basis using worsted spinning system. Yarns of 15 Nm and 20 Nm were spun for each proportion. On the basis of yarn evenness, yarn strength and yarn moisture regain, four optimum blended yarns were selected for the development of fabrics and were knitted on a circular knitting machine. Physical and mechanical properties of the developed fabrics were studied. Subjective evaluation was carried out to analyze the hand values, end uses of the developed fabrics and the performance of developed fabrics in textile industry. It was observed that, 80 per cent judges preferred fabric S3 with excellent smoothness rating, 53.3 per cent judges preferred fabricS4 for softness with excellent rating, 66.7 per cent judges preferred fabricS3 in case of uniformity with excellent uniformity rating.40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 15 Nm exhibited best results for fabric pilling, tensile strength and elongation, snagging resistance, bending length and fabric spirality. Whereas 40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 20 Nm exhibited best results for drapability, GSM, bursting strength and flat abrasion resistance. Also 60% OTW:40% viscose blended fabric of 20 Nm showed best results for elastic properties and thermal insulation. 40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 15 Nm depicted highest rating for smoothness, uniformity, tactile sensation, aesthetic appearance and total hand value. Shrugs, ponchos, stoles and tops and tunics are the most suitable end uses for the fabrics made from 15Nm and 20 Nm blended fabrics while quilt covers, khes/light weight top sheet and bed sheet are the most suitable home textiles that could be made from these fabrics. The cost of the fabric reduced with the reduction of silk proportion in the yarn.ThesisItem Restricted Blending of mulberry silk waste/viscose fibre for construction of knitted fabrics(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Bajaj, Shikha; Bains, SandeepThe present review examines various properties of yarns and knitted fabrics developed by blending mulberry silk waste and viscose fibres in different proportions. Yarns and fabrics were formed by blending at gillbox stage and spinning was carried out on worsted spinning system and blending ratios formed included 60:40, 50:50 and 40:60 for Mulberry silk waste: Viscose proportions. All the proportions were spun into 15 and 20 metric counts (Nm). Yarn blended in proportion of 50% Mulberry silk: 50% viscose and 40% Mulberry silk: 60% viscose were found suitable for fabric development, in both 15 Nm and 20 Nm yarn counts due to less unevenness, cost benefits and high single yarn strength. Developed knitted fabrics blended in proportion of 50% Mulberry silk: 50% viscose in 20 Nm count and 40% Mulberry silk: 60% viscose in 15 Nm count, in single jersey construction on circular knitting machine were found suitable for commercial production due to highest thermal insulation, less shrinkage, good drapability, less spirality per centage, high tensile strength properties and lower production cost. Knitted fabrics can be used for development of tops and tunics, T shirts and polos, sweaters, ponchos, stole, shrugs, muffler, childrens’ pant and light weight top sheets. Fabric blended in composition of 40% mulberry silk: 60% viscose was found to be most appropriate for apparel production due to higher values of thermal insulation, lower shrinkage and tensile strength properties. Cost of blended fabrics were much less as compared to pure silk fabrics and thus found to be suitable for large scale production.ThesisItem Restricted Effect of ultraviolet absorbers and dyeing on ultraviolet protection through mercerized cotton fabric(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Sushila; Bains, SandeepThe present study entitled “Effect of ultraviolet absorbers and dyeing on ultraviolet protection through mercerized cotton fabric” was carried out in Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. The study was conducted to explore the effects of application of benzophenone UV absorbers in combination with reactive dyes on mercerized cotton fabric. Benzophenone-6 and Benzophenone-2 were selected for the UV treatment of the fabric. UV treatment conditions were optimised on the basis of ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). Treatment parameters optimized for both UV absorbers included Na2CO3 pre-treatment pH, treatment temperature, treatment time and UV absorber concentration. Pre-treatment at pH of 10 at 700C temperature found optimum for Benzophenone-6. For Benzophenone-2 optimum results were obtained at pre-treatment pH of 11 at temperature of 750C. Both UV absorbers gave best results when UV treatment was done for 35 minutes using 2% concentration. For dyeing, four hot reactive dyes and four cold reactive dyes were selected. Dyeing parameters optimized included dyeing pH, temperature, time and dye concentration. The conditions were optimized on the basis of CIE Lab and K/S values. The results revealed that for cold reactive dyes optimum pH was found between 9-10 pH and for hot reactive dyes optimum pH was observed between 10-11 pH. For all the hot reactive dyes optimum temperatures was found to be 800C.Optimum dyeing was achieved when dyeing was done for 60-70 minutes for all the reactive dye. Optimized dye concentration for all the dyes was 5%. After dyeing and treatment, the samples were assessed for physical, mechanical and comfort properties. Subsequent to UV treatment and dyeing, Colour fastnesses properties and effect of consecutive laundering on UV treated-dyed fabric was also studied. Both the UV absorbers provided acceptable levels of ultraviolet protection. Highest UPF rating was achieved for sample dyed with Reactive Red 120 dye in combination with Benzophenone-6. Significant changes in physical properties were recorded but it did not affect fabric’s appearance negatively. For mechanical properties, an increase in % elongation was observed but it did not affect dyed-UV treated fabric’s strength negatively. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis of control fabric and untreated-dyed fabrics were performed to assess the morphological changes and chemical changes, respectively.ThesisItem Open Access Documentation of costumes of Bagri community through three generations(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Mamta; Saini, Harminder KaurThe investigation entitled “Documentation of costumes of Bagri community through three generations” was carried out in two states namely, Punjab and Rajasthan. From Punjab, two districts, namely Muktsar and Fazilka and similarly from Rajasthan, two districts, namely Hanumangarh and Sri Ganganagar were selected for the study. A purposive sampling technique was used to select families having three generations of either male or female. A total of 360 respondents comprising 45 male and 45 female from each of the four selected districts were taken. The age of the 1st generation was 65 years and above, 2nd generation was between 45-65 years and that of the 3rd generation was in the age group of 25-45 years. Data for the investigation were collected from the respondents with the help of interview schedule. Maximum of the respondents in the first generation were illiterate, second generation studied up to matric level and respondents (both male and female) of third generation were graduate. The results of the study revealed that majority of the Bagri male respondents were engaged in farming and female respondents were housewives, respectively. Majority of the respondents (male and female) belonged to other backward class and had monthly family income between Rs 10,001-15,000. The Bagri males through three generations wore coat, kurta shirt, sherwani (upper garments), chadar, dhoti, designer dhoti pajama, pant (lower garments), potio, pagri, topi (headdresses), phenta and stole (wrap). Almost all the male respondents of three generations of both, Punjab and Rajasthan had similar type of upper and lower garments and headdresses, but there was difference in fabric choice and length of upper garments. The respondents of both states preferred neutral and warm colours for casual and ceremonial headdresses, respectively. Men wore very few jewellery. Silver metal was preferred by first generation whereas gold and silver metals were used by second and third generation of Punjab and Rajasthan, respectively. Bagri females through three generations wore aangi, blouse, jamper, kurti, kameez (upper garments), ghaghro, lehenga, salwar (lower garments), bugiyo, chuni, chundadi, pila and sunkukdo (headdresses). Almost all the female respondents of three generations of both, Punjab and Rajasthan had similar type of upper and lower garments and headdresses, but there was difference in the length of upper garments, fabric design and fabric choice of second and third generation, for both casual and ceremonial wear, respectively. The females of Punjab preferred bright colours while females of Rajasthan liked medium shades for upper and lower garments. In both states, the headdress of females were embellished with zari work, gota kinari and salama/sitara. Bagri females were very fond of jewellery. They possessed many jewellery items made in gold or silver metal. Various jewellery of the females of Rajasthan and Punjab were found to be similar but in Punjab, women of second and third generation preferred gold whereas women of Rajasthan wore jewellery of both gold and silver. The difference in designs and weight of the jewellery was also noticed. Advancement in communication media, education level, greater connectivity with urban areas and occupational shift were the major factors that were responsible for change in male and female costume pattern. For the purpose of preserving the traditional costumes of Bagri culture, total five costumes were selected. The paper patterns of these selected costumes of Bagri male (kurta and coat) and female (aangi, jamper and ghaghra) were developed in Tuka Tech software using standard sizes of third generation.ThesisItem Open Access Development of textile textures from plant and agrowaste materials(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Lalita Rani; Brar, Kanwaljitmaterials", was conducted to document the production processes of traditional handicrafts made from plant and agro-waste materials in rural Punjab. A sample of 180 respondents of rural women, comprising of 60 women from each of the three selected districts of Malwa region namely, Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda, who had developed traditional handicrafts in their life-time, was selected purposively. The results showed that the presently only 13.88 per cent respondents were occasionally practicing this craft. The largest percentage of respondents (28.89%) had made bohey/chhikkoo and dull (large bohiya) followed by 20.00, 19.45, 15.56, 15.00 and 11.67 per cent respondents who had made pitari(an)/sarposh(s), chhabi(an), chhaj, katnee(s) and changair from plant and waste materials. For development of textile textures, six types of plant and agro-waste materials were selected for further study. Three plant waste materials, i.e. wheat and paddy straws and date palm leaves, suitable for use in natural form were woven in plain weave and moulded in composite textures. The other three plant waste materials, i.e. ashoka and china-rose pruned stems, and corn huskssuitable for extraction of fibres by alkalization were selected. Analysis of physical parameters of extracted fibres revealed that china-rose fibres had lowest denier (69.12) and highest moisture content (12.17%) in contrast to corn husk and ashoka fibres, but highest bundle strength (24.75g/tex) was found in ashoka fibres. Six handspun blended yarns- pure ashoka fabric, ashoka/wool (50:50), pure china-rose, china-rose/cotton (50:50), corn husk/viscose rayon (70:30) and corn husk/hemp (30:70) were developed. The china-rose/cotton (50:50) blended yarn had highest elongation (3.88%) and tenacity (2.49g/tex) as compared to other yarns. The physical properties of developed hand-woven blended union fabrics were analyzed and developed ashoka (0.72s), wool (2/18)/50ashoka:50wool (1.77s), china-rose (0.73s), cotton (2/30)/50china-rose:50 cotton (2.89s), cotton (2/20)/70corn husk:30viscose rayon (0.74s) and cotton (2/20s)/30cornhusk:70hemp (1.31s) were found appropriate for home-textile and apparel products. The developed woven and moulded composite textures from straws and leaves are recommended for multiple end-uses like coaster plates, paper weights, trays, pen holders, fancy boxes besides wall tiles in interior designing, file folders and other such products.ThesisItem Open Access Study on performance appraisal of shawl units in Ludhiana(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sharma, Omika; Gandotra, VandanaThe present investigation was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was formulated to collect the required information from the powerloom shawl weaving units regarding the infrastructure of the units. Data were collected with the help of pre structured interview schedule from 60 randomly selected powerloom shawl weaving units. The results of the study revealed that majority of units had made fixed capital investment of `40 lakhs to 60 lakhs and working capital investment between `20 lakhs to 40 lakhs to establish the unit. Majority of units had installed capacity of 10 to 30 power looms and 60 percent possessed semi computerized looms to prepare shawls. Majority of units used acrylic fiber as raw material for preparing shawls and they purchased the yarn from local market. Most of units had employed total number of 40 to 80 workers. All the units produced plain shawls and majority of units had annual production of plain shawls between `60,000-90,000. Majority of units were selling their products in the local market. Twenty five percent units had minimum annual sale up to `50 lakhs. Majority of respondents faced the problems related to shortage of skilled labour (weighted mean score 2.83), high price of raw material (weighted mean score 3.68), low profit margins (weighted mean score 6.50), lack of proper infrastructure (weighted mean score 4.50), lack of power supply (weighted mean score 1.83) and maintenance of looms (weighted mean score 1.16)ThesisItem Restricted Online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2016) Ishneet Kaur; Grewal, SumeetThe present investigation was undertaken to study the online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products. The present study was conducted in three different colleges of Ludhiana city. A sample size of 180 respondents comprising of thirty boys and thirty girls from each college were purposively selected. A Questionnaire was used for collecting data regarding their socio economic profile, online shopping experience and satisfaction from online buying. The results of the investigation were interpreted using percentages, mean scores, Z-tests and chi-square. Based on the results of the collected data, the most preferred apparel product for online shopping was footwear by the male and female respondents. Significant difference was observed for male and female respondents regarding amount of money spend on single purchase and brand preference. Male respondents tend to spend more amount of money for online buying than female respondents. Majority of female respondents visit retail stores before final purchase. Majority of female respondents discuss with their friends and family after receiving the product as compared to male respondents. The most preferred online shopping site by male and female respondents is flipkart.com and the most preferred feature of online shopping site is privacy and security. Significant association was found between annual household income and annual online buying, brand preference. There was significant association between age of the respondents and mode of payment and main barriers which affect frequent buying. Majority of male had high level of satisfaction. The female respondents had both high and medium level of satisfaction from online shopping.ThesisItem Open Access Development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Arpana; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present investigation was undertaken to study the development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes. Five natural dyes and two mordants were purposively selected. The study was conducted on the college going girls in three different colleges of Punjab Agricultural University. An interview schedule was used for collecting data from ninety respondents regarding their preferences for kurti styles, necklines, sleeves and length. The results were interpreted using simple percentages and average weighted mean scores. The results of the collected data revealed that most preferred kurti styles were Anarkali, A-line, Center cut, C-shaped hem, Straight and Paneled. Boat, crew and round shape were preferred necklines and majority of the respondents showed inclination for sleeveless kurtis which were below knees in length. Twenty five silk samples were produced with combinations of selected natural dyes and mordants using different tie and dye techniques according to optimum dyeing conditions referred from secondary sources. Out of these samples, fifteen were shortlisted by the Advisory Committee. These were taken in fill tool of Corel Draw to develop eighteen designs using the most preferred kurti style features. The developed designs were shown to a panel of ten judges who shortlisted six designs which were constructed on 34" dress form standard measurements. The constructed kurtis were evaluated by a sub sample of forty-five respondents on the basis of overall appearance on a five point scale and were ranked excellent or very good. Hundred percent respondents liked the idea of natural dyed kurtis using tie and dye and majority of them considered the estimated price of the kurtis adequate and were ready to buy them.
