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ThesisItem Restricted Online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2016) Ishneet Kaur; Grewal, SumeetThe present investigation was undertaken to study the online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products. The present study was conducted in three different colleges of Ludhiana city. A sample size of 180 respondents comprising of thirty boys and thirty girls from each college were purposively selected. A Questionnaire was used for collecting data regarding their socio economic profile, online shopping experience and satisfaction from online buying. The results of the investigation were interpreted using percentages, mean scores, Z-tests and chi-square. Based on the results of the collected data, the most preferred apparel product for online shopping was footwear by the male and female respondents. Significant difference was observed for male and female respondents regarding amount of money spend on single purchase and brand preference. Male respondents tend to spend more amount of money for online buying than female respondents. Majority of female respondents visit retail stores before final purchase. Majority of female respondents discuss with their friends and family after receiving the product as compared to male respondents. The most preferred online shopping site by male and female respondents is flipkart.com and the most preferred feature of online shopping site is privacy and security. Significant association was found between annual household income and annual online buying, brand preference. There was significant association between age of the respondents and mode of payment and main barriers which affect frequent buying. Majority of male had high level of satisfaction. The female respondents had both high and medium level of satisfaction from online shopping.ThesisItem Open Access DOCUMENTATION OF TRADITIONAL PARANDA AND NAALA IN THE MALWA REGION OF PUNJAB(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Arsh Jyot Kaur; Kanwaljit Kaur, BrarThe present study was undertaken to document traditional paranda, a hair accessory and naala, a woven tape for lower garment used by the rural women in the Malwa region of Punjab. Three surveys conducted from samples of 180 rural women who had worn parandas or woven naalas and 30 shopkeepers selling these products selected randomly from Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda districts of Malwa region, indicated a sharp decline in the practice of invaluable traditional crafts of paranda and naala in these regions. None of the respondents in a wide range of age (25-95 yrs) was found to be weaving naalas during these days. Besides, only 48.89 per cent respondents were wearing parandas. Arbi gatth and jalebi were named after the knots used in tassels; sheeshe wala, jhumki zari, gatta ghungroo and moti parandas were named after the embellishments used in tassels. Paranda making techniques were known to only 4.45 per cent respondents. The craft of dori making for paranda was mainly practised by female artisans who were paid only `25-50 per dozen doris, while male artisans were paid `150 for preparing tassels of 40 doris in Patiala city, a hub of cultural handicrafts. Regular naalas for salwars were made by using both loom and finger weaving techniques. Fancy naalas for ghagras were made by loom weaving technique only. Cotton, tussar or acrylic fibres were used for both type of naalas. Warping was done on peerhi, nails or adda and loom weaving was done by using adda or manja. No equipment was used for finger weaving. Round and square harrarh were most popular amongst others such as double square, jalebi, gol gand, karela and spring harrarh. Motifs like dabbiyaan and murabbebandi in loom woven naalas, and gutt, burfi, and machhi motif in finger woven naalas were made by all the respondents. The shopkeepers were selling both remix and machine made (tape and battiyaan wale) naalas in Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda city. One remix naala took 36 times lesser work hours for finishing it in comparison to hand woven naala. Changes in lifestyle, fashion trends, lack of time and women education were identified as the major factors responsible for not making parandas these days. Diversification of the crafts, publication of design books, preservation of the craft in museum, publicising the crafts through exhibitions and other media, inclusion of these crafts in the school curriculum, organisation of cultural fairs and competitions, development of clusters of textile handicrafts, special awards for young artisans, organization of trainings and strengthening of handicraft boards may help in reviving these crafts of Punjab for the posterity.ThesisItem Open Access PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BY USING SELECTED MINOR FIBRES THROUGH WEAVING(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Amanpreet Kaur; Sandeep, BainsThe present study entitled "Product development by using selected minor fibres through weaving" was carried out in Mansa district. An interview schedule was prepared for collecting data from forty respondents. The results of investigation revealed that majority of the respondents belonged to 25-50 years of age who were illiterate, they belonged to joint families and had a monthly income between Rs.2500-5000. Majority (97.5 percent) of the respondents used waste cotton as minor fibre because it is easily available in the open market. Most of the respondent wove durries in traditional designs by using floral motifs. They created textures using two-types of fibre. Majority used natural fibre for the background and two colours for the motifs. Lattice was the most preferred technique (97 percent) to finish the raw edges. Durrie was the most time consuming article and four craft persons took four days and on each day they wove for four hours to complete a durrie. Out of all the articles the craft persons earned maximum profit from sitter (peedhi). The major problem faced by the respondents were lack of financial assistance and lack of demand for product. Forty four samples were created using minor fibres out of which ten most preferred samples were selected by each judge. Texture made from undyed hemp using twill weave (3/1) was given first rank. Later ten articles were prepared which included bag, purse, tray, belt, slippers, coaster plates, newspaper holder, fan (pakhhi), sitter (peedhi) and file cover. On the basis of fibre suitability, bag and file cover were ranked first by the craft persons and the consumers, respectively. According to the design coaster plates were ranked first both by the craft persons and the consumers. On the basis of colour combinations slippers and coaster plates ranked first by the craft persons and the consumers, respectively. Coaster plates were ranked first both by the craft persons and the consumers according to the overall impact. According to the utility bag and file cover were ranked first by the craft person and the consumers, respectively. Majority of the craft person (57.5 percent) and the consumers (72.5 percent) reported that the quoted price were suitable. Thirty to forty percent can me earned by making innovating articles using minor fibres through weaving.ThesisItem Open Access A STUDY ON DYEING PERFORMANCE ON MULBERRY SILK WASTE/WOOL BLENDED FABRIC(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Pooja Bhatt; Sandeep BainsThe present study entitled “A study on dyeing performance on mulberry silk waste/wool blended fabric” was carried out to analyse the effect of dyeing on mulberry silk/wool blended fabric. Cold reactive, hot reactive, leveling acid and milling acid dyes were selected for the study. Optimum conditions for dyeing the mulberry silk waste/wool blended fabric with cold reactive dye was, pH 7 for 60 minutes at room temperature using 4 percent dye concentration. Whereas 5 pH for 70 minutes at 90°C with 3 percent dye concentration was considered optimum for dyeing the fabric with hot reactive dye. In case of levelling acid dyeing optimum dyeing conditions were, pH 5 for 80 minutes at 90°C using 4 percent dye concentration. In order to optimize the dyeing condition for milling acid dye best results were obtained at 7 pH with dyeing time 80 minutes, temperature 90°C and 4 percent dye concentration. Physical and mechanical properties like crease recovery angle and tensile strength increased after dyeing the fabric with cold reactive dye, this was followed by hot reactive dyed fabric. Whereas fabric dyed using milling acid dye showed better GSM, thickness, drapability and elongation. However no change was observed on the cover factor after dyeing. Light fastness grade was excellent for the fabric dyed using milling dye and good. Fabric dyed using hot reactive dye showed excellent grade for wash fastness in terms of colour change and no staining on both wool and silk fabrics. The fabric dyed with milling dye exhibited good to excellent grade for dry rubbing in terms of colour change and negligible staining on adjacent fabric, for wet rubbing good grade in terms of colour change and slight staining was observed on adjacent fabric. Hot reactive dyed fabric showed better results for perspiration fastness as compared to the other dyed fabrics. The perspiration grade of hot reactive dyed fabric was excellent for colour change in acidic medium and slight staining on both wool and silk fabrics. When the dyed fabric was kept in the alkaline medium the colour change was ranged between good to excellent, negligible staining was found on wool fabric and slight staining was observed on silk fabric.ThesisItem Open Access KNITWEAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT USING KASUTI EMBROIDERY MOTIFS(PAU Ludhiana, 2013) Karandeep Kaur; Devinder KaurThe investigation entitled ‘Knitwear product development using kasuti embroidery motifs’ was carried out in Ludhiana city. Traditional motifs of kasuti embroidery were selected and plates were developed through Corel Draw 13 and were shown to 10 panel of judges. After the selection of motifs, three colour combinations of each motif were developed and again shown to 20 judges to finalize the 10 colour combinations of the 10 selected motifs for the development of design. After that two different design placements were prepared of the 10 most preferred motifs and their colour combinations. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data from 80 female respondents between the age group of 20 to 30 years selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were graduates, belonging to nuclear families. Seventy per cent of the respondents were aware of knitwear designs and 51.25 per cent aware of kasuti embroidery and 70 per cent respondents preferred to buy knitwear kurtis. Readymade kurtis were the most preferred kurtis with medium length and V-shape necklines. Multi coloured combination was the most preferred colour combination followed by two colour and three colour combinations. Skin, pista green, red and cream were the most preferred colours. After this second interview schedule was prepared to study the preferences for the developed knitwear kurtis. For this purpose four localities of Ludhiana city were selected. All the kurtis were highly appreciated on the basis of colour combinations and overall impact where as kurti D10 was the most preferred kurti. Majority of the respondents rated all the kurtis as very good. The quoted price of the kurtis was found to be adequate and 30.72 to 50 percent profit can be earned by making knitwear kurtis.ThesisItem Restricted DEVELOPING DESIGNS OF LOWER GARMENTS FOR COLLEGE GOING GIRLS THROUGH DRAPING TECHNIQUE(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2013) Ravneet KaurThe investigation entitled „Developing designs of lower garments for college going girls through draping technique‟ was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data from 90 college going girls between the age group of 18 to 22 years selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were in their second year of graduation, belonging to nuclear families, urban background and had family income ranged between `40,000- 80,000. Trousers, salwars, capris and skirts were the four most preferred lower garments. Cotton and lycra fibres/fabrics, plain fabric without design, white and black colours and single coloured lower garments were most preferred in summer and winter seasons respectively. Among constructional features respondents preferred U- shape yoke, pin and cross tucks, plain gathers, knife and box pleats and patch pockets. Buttons were most preferred embellishments in lower garments. Four designs each for the four most preferred lower garments were developed through draping technique. Preferences regarding the sixteen developed designs for lower garments were taken. Thus top two ranked designs of four most preferred lower garments were selected for construction. Acceptability of prepared lower garments was evaluated on the basis of fit, comfort, drape, design, embellishments and overall impact. Majority of the respondents found design A2 of the trousers, design B2 of Patiala salwar, design C2 of capris and design D3 of skirts to be more fitted, comfortable and very good in drape, design embellishments and overall impact. Keywords: Draping technique, lower garments, embellishments, respondents, design, most preferred.ThesisItem Restricted A study of the male and female costumes of Punjab through last ten decades(PAU, 2012) Brar, Amrinder Kaur; Grewal, NeelamThe investigation entitled A study of the male and female costumes of Punjab through last ten decades was carried out in the Majha, Malwa and Doaba regions of Punjab. Digital documentation of the costumes was done from primary and secondary sources. Decade wise documentation of the costumes was done which was divided in 10 decades from 1911-2010. Kameez pyjama and chadra were worn by majority of respondents from earlier decades while elites wore British fashion uptill 1950. Pagris were worn by the majority of the males and females were noticed with draped dupattas over head. An interview schedule was prepared for collecting data from 300 families (150 males and 150 females, including 3 generations) by using purposive sampling technique. The results of the study revealed that majority of the male respondents (78.00%) were engaged in farming and 66 percent of female respondents were housewives. Majority of the male and female respondents belonged to Sikh religion and had monthly income `60-80 thousand. Majority male respondents of Ist generation wore kameez pyjama in all the three stages of life, whereas the respondents of IIIrd generation started wearing shirt. Bushirt and chadra were popular garment among Ist generation. Dhoti was worn by only 8 percent respondents from the Ist and the IInd generation. T-shirts and trousers became popular among the IIIrd generation respondents. Female respondents of all the three generation wore kameez and salwar. The trend of wearing saree increased in IInd and IIIrd generation. Ghagra was worn by the majority of respondents from the Ist generation, whereas jeans were worn by majority from the IIIrd generation. A change was noticed in the styles of the entire upper and lower male and female garments in every generation. Wearing pattern of winter wear and under garments has also changed. Development of communication media, development transport and spread of education were the major drivers that were responsible for the changes in male and female costumes. Religion and social cultural zones have significant impact on the costumes of both male and female.ThesisItem Restricted Potential use of shoddy yarn for development of textile products(PAU, 2014) Gupta, Mohini; Saggu, Harinder KaurThe present study on „Potential use of shoddy yarn for development of textile products‟ was carried out in six shoddy units, three each in Ludhiana and Amritsar districts of Punjab through probability proportional to size sampling technique. It was observed that maximum number of shoddy units started during 1980-1990 with an initial capital investment of 5-10 crores. All units in Ludhiana were having proprietorship; whereas two third units were private limited in Amritsar. The socio personal profile revealed that all the respondents were graduates in both districts. Maximum number of units had employed 1-15 numbers of managers and supervisors at both places. There were 435 workers in shoddy units of Ludhiana and majority of them were males and only eleven per cent were females; whereas in Amritsar only nine per cent were females. In shoddy units of Ludhiana, 38 per cent polyester textile waste was used as raw material followed by wool (32%) and acrylic (30%); whereas in Amritsar majority of the units were using woollen waste (60%) as raw material followed by acrylic (30%) and polyester (10%). Only blankets were woven in both districts and yarn was spun on worsted spinning system. Physical or mechanical properties were analyzed for 8Nm, 10Nm and 12Nm shoddy yarn.10Nm and 12Nm shoddy yarn was used during study for developing different textile products. These yarns were found to be significant at 0.05 per cent level of significance in both districts. Preferences were taken and twenty four designs were developed for preparing four prototype samples each in cushion cover, table mat, carry bag, wall hanging, stole and muffler. Weaving method of fabric construction with 10Nm of yarn was found to be suitable for cushion cover, carry bag, table mats and wall hanging but crochet method of fabric construction with 12Nm of yarn was found to be suitable for muffler and stole. Preferences were taken from a sub sample of 60 women in the age of 25-35 years to assess consumer acceptability. According to the preferences of the respondents, cushion cover obtained first rank for its innovativeness, embellishments, colour combination and texture. Suitability to utility for carry bag was considered best. Cushion cover was given highest rank for the overall appeal. The quoted prices were considered adequate with a profit margin ranging from 25 to 50 per cent. Cushion cover and carry bag had significantly high commercial viability. The developed textile products from shoddy yarn were highly appreciated, thus these products were highly accepted by the consumers.ThesisItem Restricted A study of the male and female costumes of Punjab through last ten decades(PUNJAB AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY, 2012) Brar, Amrinder Kaur; Grewal, NeelamThe investigation entitled A study of the male and female costumes of Punjab through last ten decades was carried out in the Majha, Malwa and Doaba regions of Punjab. Digital documentation of the costumes was done from primary and secondary sources. Decade wise documentation of the costumes was done which was divided in 10 decades from 1911-2010. Kameez pyjama and chadra were worn by majority of respondents from earlier decades while elites wore British fashion uptill 1950. Pagris were worn by the majority of the males and females were noticed with draped dupattas over head. An interview schedule was prepared for collecting data from 300 families (150 males and 150 females, including 3 generations) by using purposive sampling technique. The results of the study revealed that majority of the male respondents (78.00%) were engaged in farming and 66 percent of female respondents were housewives. Majority of the male and female respondents belonged to Sikh religion and had monthly income `60-80 thousand. Majority male respondents of Ist generation wore kameez pyjama in all the three stages of life, whereas the respondents of IIIrd generation started wearing shirt. Bushirt and chadra were popular garment among Ist generation. Dhoti was worn by only 8 percent respondents from the Ist and the IInd generation. T-shirts and trousers became popular among the IIIrd generation respondents. Female respondents of all the three generation wore kameez and salwar. The trend of wearing saree increased in IInd and IIIrd generation. Ghagra was worn by the majority of respondents from the Ist generation, whereas jeans were worn by majority from the IIIrd generation. A change was noticed in the styles of the entire upper and lower male and female garments in every generation. Wearing pattern of winter wear and under garments has also changed. Development of communication media, development transport and spread of education were the major drivers that were responsible for the changes in male and female costumes. Religion and social cultural zones have significant impact on the costumes of both male and female
