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ThesisItem Open Access DOCUMENTATION OF TRADITIONAL PARANDA AND NAALA IN THE MALWA REGION OF PUNJAB(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Arsh Jyot Kaur; Kanwaljit Kaur, BrarThe present study was undertaken to document traditional paranda, a hair accessory and naala, a woven tape for lower garment used by the rural women in the Malwa region of Punjab. Three surveys conducted from samples of 180 rural women who had worn parandas or woven naalas and 30 shopkeepers selling these products selected randomly from Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda districts of Malwa region, indicated a sharp decline in the practice of invaluable traditional crafts of paranda and naala in these regions. None of the respondents in a wide range of age (25-95 yrs) was found to be weaving naalas during these days. Besides, only 48.89 per cent respondents were wearing parandas. Arbi gatth and jalebi were named after the knots used in tassels; sheeshe wala, jhumki zari, gatta ghungroo and moti parandas were named after the embellishments used in tassels. Paranda making techniques were known to only 4.45 per cent respondents. The craft of dori making for paranda was mainly practised by female artisans who were paid only `25-50 per dozen doris, while male artisans were paid `150 for preparing tassels of 40 doris in Patiala city, a hub of cultural handicrafts. Regular naalas for salwars were made by using both loom and finger weaving techniques. Fancy naalas for ghagras were made by loom weaving technique only. Cotton, tussar or acrylic fibres were used for both type of naalas. Warping was done on peerhi, nails or adda and loom weaving was done by using adda or manja. No equipment was used for finger weaving. Round and square harrarh were most popular amongst others such as double square, jalebi, gol gand, karela and spring harrarh. Motifs like dabbiyaan and murabbebandi in loom woven naalas, and gutt, burfi, and machhi motif in finger woven naalas were made by all the respondents. The shopkeepers were selling both remix and machine made (tape and battiyaan wale) naalas in Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda city. One remix naala took 36 times lesser work hours for finishing it in comparison to hand woven naala. Changes in lifestyle, fashion trends, lack of time and women education were identified as the major factors responsible for not making parandas these days. Diversification of the crafts, publication of design books, preservation of the craft in museum, publicising the crafts through exhibitions and other media, inclusion of these crafts in the school curriculum, organisation of cultural fairs and competitions, development of clusters of textile handicrafts, special awards for young artisans, organization of trainings and strengthening of handicraft boards may help in reviving these crafts of Punjab for the posterity.ThesisItem Open Access PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BY USING SELECTED MINOR FIBRES THROUGH WEAVING(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Amanpreet Kaur; Sandeep, BainsThe present study entitled "Product development by using selected minor fibres through weaving" was carried out in Mansa district. An interview schedule was prepared for collecting data from forty respondents. The results of investigation revealed that majority of the respondents belonged to 25-50 years of age who were illiterate, they belonged to joint families and had a monthly income between Rs.2500-5000. Majority (97.5 percent) of the respondents used waste cotton as minor fibre because it is easily available in the open market. Most of the respondent wove durries in traditional designs by using floral motifs. They created textures using two-types of fibre. Majority used natural fibre for the background and two colours for the motifs. Lattice was the most preferred technique (97 percent) to finish the raw edges. Durrie was the most time consuming article and four craft persons took four days and on each day they wove for four hours to complete a durrie. Out of all the articles the craft persons earned maximum profit from sitter (peedhi). The major problem faced by the respondents were lack of financial assistance and lack of demand for product. Forty four samples were created using minor fibres out of which ten most preferred samples were selected by each judge. Texture made from undyed hemp using twill weave (3/1) was given first rank. Later ten articles were prepared which included bag, purse, tray, belt, slippers, coaster plates, newspaper holder, fan (pakhhi), sitter (peedhi) and file cover. On the basis of fibre suitability, bag and file cover were ranked first by the craft persons and the consumers, respectively. According to the design coaster plates were ranked first both by the craft persons and the consumers. On the basis of colour combinations slippers and coaster plates ranked first by the craft persons and the consumers, respectively. Coaster plates were ranked first both by the craft persons and the consumers according to the overall impact. According to the utility bag and file cover were ranked first by the craft person and the consumers, respectively. Majority of the craft person (57.5 percent) and the consumers (72.5 percent) reported that the quoted price were suitable. Thirty to forty percent can me earned by making innovating articles using minor fibres through weaving.ThesisItem Open Access A STUDY ON DYEING PERFORMANCE ON MULBERRY SILK WASTE/WOOL BLENDED FABRIC(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Pooja Bhatt; Sandeep BainsThe present study entitled “A study on dyeing performance on mulberry silk waste/wool blended fabric” was carried out to analyse the effect of dyeing on mulberry silk/wool blended fabric. Cold reactive, hot reactive, leveling acid and milling acid dyes were selected for the study. Optimum conditions for dyeing the mulberry silk waste/wool blended fabric with cold reactive dye was, pH 7 for 60 minutes at room temperature using 4 percent dye concentration. Whereas 5 pH for 70 minutes at 90°C with 3 percent dye concentration was considered optimum for dyeing the fabric with hot reactive dye. In case of levelling acid dyeing optimum dyeing conditions were, pH 5 for 80 minutes at 90°C using 4 percent dye concentration. In order to optimize the dyeing condition for milling acid dye best results were obtained at 7 pH with dyeing time 80 minutes, temperature 90°C and 4 percent dye concentration. Physical and mechanical properties like crease recovery angle and tensile strength increased after dyeing the fabric with cold reactive dye, this was followed by hot reactive dyed fabric. Whereas fabric dyed using milling acid dye showed better GSM, thickness, drapability and elongation. However no change was observed on the cover factor after dyeing. Light fastness grade was excellent for the fabric dyed using milling dye and good. Fabric dyed using hot reactive dye showed excellent grade for wash fastness in terms of colour change and no staining on both wool and silk fabrics. The fabric dyed with milling dye exhibited good to excellent grade for dry rubbing in terms of colour change and negligible staining on adjacent fabric, for wet rubbing good grade in terms of colour change and slight staining was observed on adjacent fabric. Hot reactive dyed fabric showed better results for perspiration fastness as compared to the other dyed fabrics. The perspiration grade of hot reactive dyed fabric was excellent for colour change in acidic medium and slight staining on both wool and silk fabrics. When the dyed fabric was kept in the alkaline medium the colour change was ranged between good to excellent, negligible staining was found on wool fabric and slight staining was observed on silk fabric.ThesisItem Open Access KNITWEAR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT USING KASUTI EMBROIDERY MOTIFS(PAU Ludhiana, 2013) Karandeep Kaur; Devinder KaurThe investigation entitled ‘Knitwear product development using kasuti embroidery motifs’ was carried out in Ludhiana city. Traditional motifs of kasuti embroidery were selected and plates were developed through Corel Draw 13 and were shown to 10 panel of judges. After the selection of motifs, three colour combinations of each motif were developed and again shown to 20 judges to finalize the 10 colour combinations of the 10 selected motifs for the development of design. After that two different design placements were prepared of the 10 most preferred motifs and their colour combinations. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data from 80 female respondents between the age group of 20 to 30 years selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were graduates, belonging to nuclear families. Seventy per cent of the respondents were aware of knitwear designs and 51.25 per cent aware of kasuti embroidery and 70 per cent respondents preferred to buy knitwear kurtis. Readymade kurtis were the most preferred kurtis with medium length and V-shape necklines. Multi coloured combination was the most preferred colour combination followed by two colour and three colour combinations. Skin, pista green, red and cream were the most preferred colours. After this second interview schedule was prepared to study the preferences for the developed knitwear kurtis. For this purpose four localities of Ludhiana city were selected. All the kurtis were highly appreciated on the basis of colour combinations and overall impact where as kurti D10 was the most preferred kurti. Majority of the respondents rated all the kurtis as very good. The quoted price of the kurtis was found to be adequate and 30.72 to 50 percent profit can be earned by making knitwear kurtis.ThesisItem Restricted DEVELOPING DESIGNS OF LOWER GARMENTS FOR COLLEGE GOING GIRLS THROUGH DRAPING TECHNIQUE(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2013) Ravneet KaurThe investigation entitled „Developing designs of lower garments for college going girls through draping technique‟ was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data from 90 college going girls between the age group of 18 to 22 years selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were in their second year of graduation, belonging to nuclear families, urban background and had family income ranged between `40,000- 80,000. Trousers, salwars, capris and skirts were the four most preferred lower garments. Cotton and lycra fibres/fabrics, plain fabric without design, white and black colours and single coloured lower garments were most preferred in summer and winter seasons respectively. Among constructional features respondents preferred U- shape yoke, pin and cross tucks, plain gathers, knife and box pleats and patch pockets. Buttons were most preferred embellishments in lower garments. Four designs each for the four most preferred lower garments were developed through draping technique. Preferences regarding the sixteen developed designs for lower garments were taken. Thus top two ranked designs of four most preferred lower garments were selected for construction. Acceptability of prepared lower garments was evaluated on the basis of fit, comfort, drape, design, embellishments and overall impact. Majority of the respondents found design A2 of the trousers, design B2 of Patiala salwar, design C2 of capris and design D3 of skirts to be more fitted, comfortable and very good in drape, design embellishments and overall impact. Keywords: Draping technique, lower garments, embellishments, respondents, design, most preferred.ThesisItem Open Access Development of Eco-Fashion Accessories from Leftover /Waste of Zari /Brocade Fabrics(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2014) Baljit Kaur; Devinder KaurThe investigation entitled “Development of eco-fashion accessories from leftover/ waste of zari/brocade fabrics” was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collection data from 90 respondents between the age group of 19-25 years selected through purposive random sampling technique from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were 19-22 years of age group and were pursuing their graduation, belonging to nuclear families and had monthly family income ranged between `10,000-50,000. Eighty seven per cent of the respondents were aware of eco-fashion accessories and 61.11 per cent were interested to reuse the discarded garments whereas 65.55 per cent of the respondents preferred to buy accessories. Readymade accessories were the most preferred accessories with three coloured combination followed by multi and two coloured combinations. Most of the fabric waste was collected from bounties. On the basis of the preferences of respondents, four sketches of each accessory were developed through Corel Draw X4 and were shown to 10 panel of judges. After the selection of sketches the most preferred designs were developed. After this second interview schedule was prepared to study the preferences for the developed eco-fashion accessories. For this purpose subsample of thirty respondents were randomly selected. All the accessories were highly appreciated on the basis of suitability of design, utility and overall impact. Majority of the respondents rated all the accessories as very good. The quoted prices of the accessories were found to be adequate and 12.50 to 25.55 per cent profit can be earned by making eco-fashion accessories.ThesisItem Open Access Prevaling designing practices of apparel industries of Ludhiana(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2014) Jaspreet Kaur; Bains, SandeepThe present study titled “prevaling designing practices of apparel industry of Ludhiana” was conducted in Ludhiana city. For data collection 30 apparel industries from Ludhiana district were selected using snow ball technique. Survey was conducted to meet the specific objective of the study. Results of the study revealed that from the total sample (56.60%) of the industries use both manual and CAD (computer aided designing) systems for designing. About (23.30%) of the industries provide the facility of personal computer and (13.30%) of the industries given individual room to every designer. Various reasons for using manual system were lack of skilled labour (42.00%) and cost effectiveness (40.00%). Most of the industries (58.30%) carry out the market survey once in a year. Majority (67.80%) of the industries use Corel draw for designing purpose. Rapid generation of new style (wms 2.98) and fast modification (wms 3.24) were the main reason for using CAD software. The average time taken for garment designing in manual system was 3-4 hour, whereas in CAD system of designing the time taken was 1-2 hour. From the total sample (46.60%) of the industries prefer designing women garment. Most of the industries (48.00%) prefer Vogue and (24.00%) prefer Femina magazines and websites like WGSN (60.00%), Promo style (40.00%) and fiber2fashion (36.00%) as a source of forecasting. Majority (46.60%) of the industries use forecast because of better acceptability of the garment and (26.60%) of the industries use it as it helped to reduce risks. Consumer demand (wms 7.01) and fashion forecast (wms 6.92) are the main factors kept in mind while designing. Season (wms 5.78) and cost (wms 4.21) were the main factors affecting the designing process. The major problems faced by industries are higher cost of softwares (wms 4.14) and non availability of skilled designers (wms 3.45). Nearly (46.60%) of the industries suggested that the new technology should be made available at low price and more training center was reported by (30.00%) of the industries.ThesisItem Open Access Developing one piece dresses for college going girls inspired from architecture(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2014) Navdeep Kaur; Saini, Harminder KaurThe investigation entitled “Developing one piece dresses for college going girls inspired from architecture” was carried out in Ludhiana city. Forty designs/patterns of architecture were collected through secondary sources out of which ten architectural designs were selected to be used as an inspiration source. These selected architectural designs/patterns were used for developing 20 designs (two designs each from one architectural design) using CAD. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data from 90 college going girls between the age group of 18-22 years selected randomly from three college of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were from the age group of 18 to 20 years, in their second year of graduation, belong to nuclear families, urban background and had family income ranged between `41, 000 to 80, 000. Preferences regarding the developing develop designs of one piece dresses shows that design A2, B2, E2, G2 and I2 got the first rank. Similarly designs C1, D1, F1, H1 and J1 got the first ranks. The preferences of the respondents for ten selected first ranked designs of one piece dresses were again taken. On the basis of the preferences, five top ranked designs of one piece dresses were constructed. Design A2 was most preferred design with mean score of 4.7 and design D1 with mean score of 4.2 was given second rank. Design B2, J1 and C1 were given third, fourth and fifth ranks respectively. Developed designs of one piece dresses were evaluated by a sub sample of 30 respondents about the design, suitability of colour combination, silhouette, comfort and overall appearance of the dress. It was found that design D1 was given first rank on the basis of design, suitability of colour combination, silhouette and overall appearance of the garment. Whereas design C1 was given first rank on the basis of comfort.