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Open Access
Effect of eco-friendly mordant on dyeability of cotton fabric with anionic dye
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-02) Divya; Verma, Mona
Textile industry is considered as one of the most ecologically harmful industry in the world. There is need to approach new strategies, methods, material for dyeing treatment for environmentally friendly modification of cotton fibres for improvement of dyeability of cotton fabric with anionic dyes. To achieve the objectives of the study, different types of mordants with different direct dyes, were tried and one mordant and one direct dye was selected on the basis of colour properties of dyed fabrics. MMW chitosan and direct red dye was selected for further standardization work. Standardization of mordant treatment and dyeing process was done on the basis of percent dye absorption, colour strength (K/S) value and wash fastness grades (CC) for different variables. Application of standardized MMW chitosan and direct red dye was given on cotton fabric using exhaust method. It was found that the chitosan treated dyed cotton fabric showed higher dye absorption (71.20%), colour strength (14.01), wash fastness rating very good (4/5) than SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric having dye absorption (68.56%), colour strength (10.46 K/S) and good (4) wash fastness. The MMW chitosan treated dyed fabric showed higher crease recovery (100 degree) than SSSC treated dyed (94.1 degree) cotton fabric. The MMW chitosan treated dyed fabric showed increased percent reduction in bacterial growth against E. coli (85.51%) and S. aureus (86.20%) bacteria than SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric, 17.75% and 18.22% respectively. The MMW chitosan treated dyed cotton fabric reflected the higher UPF value (213.94) than with SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric (110.35). MMW chitosan treated dyed fabrics demonstrated better antibacterial and ultraviolet protection property than SSSC treated dyed fabrics. Thus, it was concluded that MMW chitosan treatment can enhance the colour properties of cotton fabric without using any harsh chemicals and is capable enough to replace the use of metallic salts/electrolytes in the dyeing of cotton fabric with anionic dyes. The chitosan treatment along with direct red dye played an important role in imparting the multifunctionality to cotton fabric by imparting UV protection, bacterial resistance and crease resistance in efficient way with eco-friendly and safe mordant method which will curtail the pollution load on environment.
Open Access
Application of natural dye with biomordant to enhance the dyeability of cotton fabric
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-05) Kushwah, Namrata; Arya, Nisha
Increasing concern about environmental pollution in all aspects of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of biomordants have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the purpose of this study was to evaluate the impact of biomordants on the effectiveness of dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dyes as an alternative to metal based mordants and salts. Standardization of biomordanting process for two biomordants i.e. curry leaves and pomegranate peel for sappanwood dye and two biomordants i.e. lemon peel and pomegranate peel for madder dye was done on the basis of dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different concentrations and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabric was pretreated with selected biomordants and dyed with selected natural dyes. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of the biomordant treated dyed fabric samples were done. SEM analysis demonstrated plain surface of biomordant treated sample and FTIR analysis revealed the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to biomordant treatment. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordant treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were mordanting with 11 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio, 9 pH, at 60°C treatment temperature and 60 minutes treatment time for curry leaves and pomegranate peel, respectively for sappanwood dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were mordanting with 15 and 11 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio and 1:40 M: L Ratio, 7 and 9 pH, at 60°C and 45°C treatment temperature and 60 and 45 minutes treatment time for lemon peel and pomegranate peel, respectively for madder dye. All the biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The curry leaves treated and pomegranate peel treated dyed (sappanwood) fabric and lemon peel and pomegranate peel treated dyed (madder) fabric showed the highest UPF value indicating excellent protection category The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed good bacterial resistance against E. coli and S. aureus. Thus, it is concluded that biomordant treatment enhanced the dyeing efficacy of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant treatment of fabric samples dyed with natural dye improved the performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence, the biomordants are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.
Open Access
Utilization of biopolymer for screen printing of silk with natural dyes
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-10) Ritika; Yadav, Saroj
Dyeing and printing with natural dyes are age old crafts and require artistic skill to develop colours and patterns on fabric using certain techniques. In lieu of synthetic dyes and changing market trends, the demand for natural dyed/printed products diminished. However, with stringent environment regulations and increasing interest of consumers, the use of natural dyes and biopolymers for textile processing is gaining momentum. Natural dyes and biopolymers or their combination can be applied on the textile fabrics to obtain varying colour or shade to increase the dye uptake and improve the colour fastness behaviour of any natural dye. Hence, the present study was undertaken to replace the metal based mordants and promote the use of biopolymers for textile printing. Chitosan biopolymer with five different natural dyes was explored to assceratain the effect of biopolymer mordanting in screen printing of silk fabric. Prior to biopolymer treatment the enzymatic degummimg of silk fabric was carried out using a combination of protease and papain enzymes (75:25) to improve its wettability. On the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness towards change in colour (CC) and colour staining (CS), chitosan biopolymer and two natural dyes were selected for screen printing of silk fabric. To prepare the printing paste of selected natural dye extracts, two thickeners namely guar gum and gum acacia were tried. On the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness grades, one thickner was selected. The different variables of printing receipe viz. biopolymer concentration, mordanting method, dye extract concentration, dye extract: thickener ratio and fixer concentration were optimized on the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness properties (CC and CS) of screen printed silk fabric samples. The silk fabric was screen printed as per optimized variables of printing receipe. For biopolymer mordanting and screen priniting of silk fabric with natural dyes, chitosan biopolymer along with indigo and lac dyes were selected on the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness (CC and CS) grades of screen printed silk fabric samples. The guar gum thickner was selected to prepare the printing paste of indigo and lac dye extracts. The optimized variables viz. 15 percent concentration of chitosan biopolymer, pre mordanting method, 5 and 6 percent concentration of indigo and lac dyes respectively, 1:2 ratio of dye extract: thickener and 4 percent concentration of acrafix fixer were used for screen printing of silk fabric. The colour coordinates in terms of L*, a*, b*, C*, H* values and colour strength (K/S) of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dyes printed silk fabric samples reflected the improvement in colour properties of biopolymer treated printed silk fabric samples as compared to unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed samples. The colour fastness properties towards wash, light, perspiration and rubbing of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dye printed samples ranged between good (4) to excellent (5) which were observed to be higher in comparison to unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed samples. Priliminary properties i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness of chitosan biopolymer mordanted printed samples exhibited an increase in these properties. The physical properties studied in terms of bending length, tensile strength, elongation and performance properties i.e. crease recovery angle and functional properties viz. UV protection and antibacterial activity of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dyes printed silk fabric samples expressed an increase in these proeprties when compared with unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed silk fabric samples. It is thus concluded that pre mordanting of silk fabric with chitosan biopolymer for screen printing with indigo and lac dyes enhanced the depth of colour, sharpness of print, evenness of print, overall appearance of print and colour properties, colour fastness to various agencies as well as physical and functional properties of screen printed silk fabric samples. Hence, chitosan biopolymer can be successfully used as viable approach to replace the conventional metal based mordants.
Open Access
Development of embroidered wall panels using traditional designs of Haryana
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-06) Sharma, Minakshi; Gill, Parul
Handicrafts are considered a symbol of the culture and tradition of a community or race. Motifs depicting Haryanvi culture and rural life may be conceptualized to create new patterns unique to the Haryana state. The present study was conducted on the adaptation of the pictorial designs depicting Haryanvi culture and traditions for the development of wall panels through hand embroidery in combination with other embellishments. Initially, a total of 200 traditional designs of Haryana were collected from secondary sources like books, magazines, theses etc. The collected designs were screened by the researcher according to their suitability for wall panels. The 95 screened designs were categorized as household activities, farm activities, livestock rearing, dance and music, rituals and festivals, buildings and structures, crafts, games and miscellaneous activities. The highest number of screened designs were from household activities, dance and music and games categories i.e., 17 designs in each, whereas the lowest number of screened designs were from category crafts of Haryana i.e., 4 designs. The 95 screened designs were converted into pencil sketches with the help of software like ‘Photo Director’ and ‘Pencil Sketch Your Photo Online’. These converted designs were got assessed by thirty experts and ten most preferred designs were selected for further study. Using the combination of these selected designs, twenty-five placements were created with the help of Corel DRAW. Preferences for design placements were taken from the experts. Five colourways for each of the selected five design placements were prepared i.e. total 25 colourways were prepared and expert preferences were sought. Five most preferred colourways (i.e. one for each design) were selected for the purpose of development of wall panels. Fabric and base colour for wall panels were selected as per experts' preferences. Five wall panels were prepared using preferred design placements and colourways through hand embroidery in combination with other embellishments i.e., gotta, lace, fabric painting, mirror work and sequins work. The cost of each wall panel was determined by totaling the cost of raw material, labour and finishing charges. Developed wall panels were got assessed by thirty consumers for their acceptability on different design parameters and overall appearance. The price of wall panels was considered to be appropriate by the majority of consumers. Consumers strongly believed that these developed designs gave a traditional look to wall panels. They affirmed that they would like to purchase these types of wall panels. Therefore, it may be concluded that creativity and scope of designing for the development of wall panels were enhanced when traditional designs depicting Haryanvi culture were created through embroidery in combination with other embellishments.
Open Access
Effect of biomordants on dyeability of cotton fabric with natural dye
(CCS HAU, Hisar, 2020-07) Neeta; Arya, Nisha
Increasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of biomordants have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study has been planned to assess the effect of biomordant on dyeing efficacy of cotton with natural dye substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of biomordanting process for two biomordants i.e. harad and heena was done on the basis of dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different concentrations and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabric were pre-treated with selected two biomordants and dyed with selected natural dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of biomordanted fabric samples. SEM analysis demonstrated plain surface of biomordant treated sample. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordant treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were pre mordanting stage with 5 and 10 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio, 6 and 4 pH, 60° and 80°C treatment temperature and 60 and 45 minutes treatment time for heena and harad, respectively. Both the biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among both the biomordants treated dyed fabrics, heena treated dyed fabric showed maximum increase in bending length (2.39 cm) and heena treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (29.68%), crease recovery angle (113 degree), moisture regain (10 %) and wickability (3.86cm). The heena treated and Babool bark dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (56.89) indicating excellent protection category while in harad treated dyed fabric UPF value was (48.76). The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (93.35%) and S. aureus (88.07%). Thus, it is concluded that biomordants treatment enhanced the dyeing efficacy of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant treatment and Babool bark dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence, the biomordants are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.
Open Access
Effect of Biomordants on Dyeability of Cotton Fabric with Ashoka Bark dye
(Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University hisar, 2022-07) Savita; Lalita Rani
Increasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. The present study has been planned to assess the effect of different biomordants treatment on dyeing efficiency of cotton for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of biomordants treatment for two biomordants i.e. lemon and Henna was done on the basis of percent dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different biomordants concentration and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabrics were pretreated with the two biomordants and dyed with ashoka bark dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of biomordants treated fabrics of selected dye. SEM analysis demonstrated smoother surface of biomordant treated sample. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordants treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordants treatment of scoured fabric were premordanting stage with 5 and 10 per cent concentration, 1:30 M:L Ratio, 4pH, 70°and 60°C treatment temperature and 60 and 60 minutes treatment time for Henna and lemon respectively. All these treatment variables were same for the scoured fabric. All the two biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to good (4) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among both the biomordants treated dyed fabrics, lemon treated dyed fabric showed maximum increase in bending length (2.13 cm) and lemon treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (42.72%), crease recovery angle (114.60 degree) in Henna, moisture regain (12.09 %) in Henna treated and wickability (4.19cm) in Henna treated. The scoured Henna treated and ashoka bark dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (47.55) indicating excellent protection category while in scoured lemon treated dyed fabric UPF value was (44.65). The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (91.41%) and S. aureus (92.51%). Thus it is concluded that biomordants treatment enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant pretreatment and ashoka bark dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack.
Open Access
Application of Biopolymer Nano Particles for Improving the Dye Uptake of Cotton Fabric
(Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University hisar, 2023-09) Raveena; Verma, Mona
Textile dyeing and printing industry is one of the most polluting sectors from an ecological point of view. There is need to approach new strategies, methods, material for dyeing treatment of cotton fabric with natural dyes using environment benign route. To achieve the objectives of the study, different sizes of biopolymer chitosan nano-particles for onion skin dye, were tried and one was selected on the basis of colour properties of dyed fabrics. Standardization of chitosan nano-particles treatment process for onion skin dye was done on the basis of colour properties i.e., dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness for different concentrations and conditions. It was found that the chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed higher dye absorption (69.36%), colour strength (18.54), wash fastness rating than alum treated dyed fabric (66.21%, 14.21 K/S respectively. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed higher crease recovery (90.5 degree) than alum treated (87.3 degree) dyed fabric. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed increased bacterial resistance against E. coli (97.17 %) and S. aureus (98.30%) bacteria than alum treated dyed fabric (87.00 % and 84.74 %) respectively. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin fabric showed the higher UPF value (85.91) than with alum treated dyed cotton fabric (71.94). Chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabrics demonstrated better of antibacterial and ultra-violet protection property than alum treated and dyed fabrics. Thus, it was concluded that chitosan treatment enhanced colour properties without using any harsh chemicals and is capable enough to replace the use of metallic salts in the dyeing of natural dye. The chitosan nano-particle treatment along with onion skin dye imparted the multi-functionality to the cotton fabric in terms of excellent UV protection, bacterial resistance and crease-resistant properties in effective manner with environmental benign way to curtail the pollution burden on environment.
Open Access
Microencapsulation of Vetiver Oil for Development of Aroma Wool Fabric
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2020-11) Rukhaya, Shalini; Rose, Neelam M.
In recent years fragrance embedded textiles are being developed in areas of sustainability, environment consciousness, for healthy life style and well-being. Essential oil of several best known aromatic plants have therapeutic and sedative properties. Aromatherapy is a form of an alternative medicine in which essential oils are used to impart therapeutic effects. It is important to develop textile materials with added functional properties in order to promote healthy and eco-friendly life style. Therefore, the present study was carried out to develop aroma wool fabric using microencapsulated vetiver essential oil. To achieve the objectives anticipated in the research plan, vetiver essential oil was selected on the basis of aromatic and therapeutic properties. Neutral scouring of wool fabric was done to remove impurities and uniform application of aroma finish. For standardization of microencapsulation process, the ratios of core and wall materials, temperature and pH were optimized on the basis of size, distribution and quality of wall of formed microcapsules observed under inverted microscope. Different variables of aroma treatment i.e. padding bath components (microcapsule gel, softener and binder), material to liquor ratio, treatment temperature and time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis of presence of microcapsules on treated fabric, wash durability and improvement in fabric properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle. Microencapsulated vetiver oil was applied on wool fabric through pad-dry-cure method using optimized concentrations and conditions. SEM and FTIR analysis of aroma treated wool fabric was done. Physical (preliminary, mechanical and performance) and functional properties (antimoth, antibacterial and ultraviolet protection) of wool fabric were tested after aroma treatment. Aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity of aroma in treated fabric after subjecting to washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying were also assessed. The vetiver essential oil:gum:gelatin in the ratio 1:4:4 at 450 C temperature with initial pH 4.5 and final pH 7 were optimized for development of microcapsules as medium sized microcapsules having good uniformity in size and distribution with sharp and thick walls were obtained with these optimized process parameters. Aroma treatment was given to wool fabric using optimized concentrations of padding bath components i.e. 60 g/l microcapsule gel, 2 g/l softener and 10 g/l binder maintaining M:L ratio 1:20 for 30 minutes at 350 C treatment temperature as the fabric treated at these optimized conditions exhibited good wash durability and improved fabric properties. The 700 C drying temperature with 4 minutes drying time and 1000 C curing temperature with 60 seconds curing duration were optimized on the basis of presence of higher number of microcapsules, retention of aroma for longer duration and improvement in fabric properties of treated fabric. SEM analysis exhibited presence of numerous microcapsules of spherical shape and uniform size on the surface of aroma treated fabric. FTIR analysis showed presence of various functional groups at different peaks in aroma treated wool fabric. Preliminary properties i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness showed an increase after treating wool fabric with microencapsulated vetiver essential oil. Bending length, flexural rigidity, tensile strength and elongation of treated fabric also increased after aroma treatment. The moisture regain, wickability, water absorbency and crease recovery angle of scoured wool fabric decreased after aroma treatment while air permeability was found to be increased. Antimoth efficacy of microencapsulated vetiver essential oil treated fabric was better than scoured wool fabric. Scoured fabric showed no antibacterial activity in terms of zone of inhibition whereas aroma treated fabric exhibited antibacterial activity with 63.45 and 61.37 percent reduction in bacterial growth against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, respectively. Scoured wool fabric showed very good (30.25) UPF value while after aroma treatment it enhanced to 87.07 and the treated wool fabric came under excellent UV protection category. The aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity of aroma after exposure to different agencies i.e. washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying was found very good in fabric samples treated with microencapsulated vetiver essential oil. Thus, the microencapsulated vetiver essential oil can be used to impart durable aroma finish onto the wool fabric to develop functionalized textiles having antimoth, antibacterial and UV protection properties without any harmful effect on the physical properties of wool fabric.
Open Access
Application of plant extract on cotton fabric for bacterial resistance
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2020-02) Rajni; Yadav, Saroj
The present research was intended to apply bacterial resistant finish on cotton fabric by using banyan leaves extract. To achieve the objectives projected in research design, banyan leaves extract was selected for bacterial resistance treatment on cotton fabric. Desizing and scouring were performed on the selected cotton fabric for uniform application of finish. The concentrations and conditions for applying the plant extracts on the fabrics were optimized on the basis of the bacterial resistance efficacy. The application of finish was performed with exhaust and pad-dry-cure methods using the optimized concentrations and conditions. The efficacy of herbal finish was assessed after 5 and 10 wash cycles in terms of percent reduction in bacterial count. The herbal treated fabrics were tested for change in physical and functional properties. Aqueous extract of banyan leaves was selected for application on the cotton fabric on the basis of maximum zone of inhibition exhibited against the test bacteria i.e. Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. It was found that yield percentage with repeated maceration (triple percolation) of extract was 16.03 percent for banyan leaves. The optimum variables for antibacterial treatment on the basis of maximum bacterial resistance were 17 percent concentration of banyan leaves extract,8 percent concentration of cross-linking agent, pH 6, material to liquor ratio 1:40 for exhaust and 1:20 for pad-dry-cure method, 60 min. at 600Ctreatment time and temperature for exhaust and 30 min. at 400C for pad-dry-cure method, 1100C for 5 min. drying temperature and time for exhaust and 1300C for 5 min. for pad-dry-cure method and 1400C for 5 min. were optimum temperature and time for curing of fabric treated by pad-dry-cure method. The treated fabrics exhibited 94.62 and 93.54 percent reduction in the bacterial count of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli after the application of banyan leaves extract by exhaust method whereas after the application of banyan leaves extract by pad-dry-cure method 95.82 and 95.70 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli respectively was observed. After 5 washing cycles, the treated fabrics exhibited 71.68 and 69.09 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. Coli respectively whereas after 10 washing cycles, the reduction in bacterial count was 68.14 and 63.27 percent for S. aureus and E. Coli respectively. For pad-dry-cure method, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli of the washed fabric after 5 washing cycles decreased by 73.47 and 70.98 percent respectively and after 10 washing cycles, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli was decreased by 62.61 and 59.72 percent respectively. The plant extract treated fabrics were tested for change in physical properties and it was found that fabric weight, thickness, bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery angle and elongation of plant extract treated fabric were increased whereas fabric count, tensile strength, moisture regain and air permeability were decreased. The herbal treated fabrics exhibited excellent ultraviolet protection i.e. 41.93 by exhaust and 48.06 by pad-dry-cure method. Thus, it is concluded that banyan leaves extract treated fabric exhibited excellent ultraviolet protection and crease resistance properties. Conclusively, banyan leaves were observed as an efficient natural source for imparting bacterial resistant finish on cotton fabric.

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