Loading...
Theses
Browse
7 results
Search Results
ThesisItem Open Access Effect of biomordants on dyeability of cotton fabric with natural dye(CCS HAU, Hisar, 2020-07) Neeta; Arya, NishaIncreasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of biomordants have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study has been planned to assess the effect of biomordant on dyeing efficacy of cotton with natural dye substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of biomordanting process for two biomordants i.e. harad and heena was done on the basis of dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different concentrations and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabric were pre-treated with selected two biomordants and dyed with selected natural dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of biomordanted fabric samples. SEM analysis demonstrated plain surface of biomordant treated sample. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordant treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were pre mordanting stage with 5 and 10 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio, 6 and 4 pH, 60° and 80°C treatment temperature and 60 and 45 minutes treatment time for heena and harad, respectively. Both the biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among both the biomordants treated dyed fabrics, heena treated dyed fabric showed maximum increase in bending length (2.39 cm) and heena treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (29.68%), crease recovery angle (113 degree), moisture regain (10 %) and wickability (3.86cm). The heena treated and Babool bark dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (56.89) indicating excellent protection category while in harad treated dyed fabric UPF value was (48.76). The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (93.35%) and S. aureus (88.07%). Thus, it is concluded that biomordants treatment enhanced the dyeing efficacy of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant treatment and Babool bark dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence, the biomordants are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.ThesisItem Open Access Effects of Softening Agent on Drapability of Cotton Khadi Fabric” submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-01) Chauhan, Neha; Arya, NishaKhadi can be deliberated as the vocal evocative of the Indian cottage Industry. Khadi fabric is emerging as a fashion fabric with shifted designers‟ interest in apparels but khadi also has drawbacks associated with it as cotton khadi is prone to wrinkles, poor drapability, higher maintenance cost etc. The present study has been conducted to study the effects of softening agent on drapability of cotton khadi fabric. Desizing and scouring was done by conventional and enzymatic method. Enzymatic desizing and scouring depicted better water absorption; hence it was continued for further research work. Three commercial softeners and three enzymes were procured on the basis of their suitability for softening of cotton khadi fabric. Eighteen combinations of commercial softeners and eighteen combinations of enzymes were tried and one top ranked combination from each category was selected on the basis of preference of experts. Standardization of commercial softener and enzymatic treatment for cotton khadi fabric was done on the basis of improvement in mechanical properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and drape coefficient. Application of conventional chemical treatment was done by exhaust method. Application of amino-silicone softener and enzymatic treatment was done as per optimized conditions by pad dry cure method. SEM was done to understand the changes in surface morphology and FTIR analysis was performed for understanding the functional groups after each treatment. The changes in physical and functional properties after different treatments were studied. The results showed improvement in softness and drape after each treatment with decrease in bending length (1.29 per cent in warp and 5.43 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (5.93 per cent) and drape coefficient (6.89 per cent) after conventional chemical treatment. After commercial softener treatment also, decrease in bending length (9.09 per cent in warp and 15.21 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (21.53 per cent) and drape coefficient (16.92 per cent) was observed and maximum decrease in bending length (18.18 per cent in warp and 27.17 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (41.06 per cent) and drape coefficient (28.37 per cent) was observed after enzymatic treatment. The treated cotton khadi fabric was assessed for reduction in the growth of bacteria for K. pneumoniae and S. aureus. Conventional chemical treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 for K. pneumoniae and 9.37 per cent for S. aureus whereas commercial softener treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 36.48 for K. pneumoniae and 45.31 for S. aureus. Enzymatically treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 per cent for K. pneumoniae and 37.50 for S. aureus in the growth as compared to controlled sample. It was also discerned that the UPF value of the scoured fabric was 8.07 which increased to 17.54 when treated with enzymes with good grade under protection category. The conventional chemical treatment also showed improvement in UPF value with moderate grade protection(14.70) but the ultra violet protection property increased slightly (8.88) after commercial softener treatment. The differently treated fabric samples were washed and changes in physical properties after 5, 10, 15 and 20 washing cycles were recorded. Conclusively, the application of softening agents improved the drapability and other physical as well as functional properties of treated cotton khadi fabric and will be beneficial for fulfilling the growing demand of suitable fabric hand and drape.ThesisItem Open Access Upcycling of pre and post apparel waste(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-01) Sodhi, Suman; Vivek SinghThe present research was conducted in Hisar city of Haryana state to design and develop a variety of textile products by utilizing pre and post apparel waste in different combinations. Fifty women were selected purposively from different areas of Hisar city to collect information regarding existing upcycling practices for pre and post apparel waste. The pre and post apparel waste was collected from boutique owners, tailors and known shopkeepers. Top ranked designs of six selected articles from each articles i.e. apparel and accessories, home furnishing & accessories and utility articles were selected and developed by the researcher using pre and post apparel waste. Hence, a total of 18 upcyled articles were developed. Cost of the developed upcycled articles was calculated on the basis of the cost of raw material used and labour charges. The cost of pre and post apparel waste was not calculated and added as these were collected free of cost The selling price of developed upcycled article was calculated by adding 10 percent profit to the cost price of each developed upcycled article. All the women were stitching female garments and majority of them were also engaged in alterations and repairs of garments. All the respondents possessed pre-apparel waste in the form of fabric scrapes and post-apparel waste in the form of rejected and damaged garments. They upcycled pre- apparel waste for repair and alteration of garments while gave away the post apparel waste i.e. discarded and damaged garments to servants, relatives, friends and charity. Major problem faced by respondents in upcycling of pre and post apparel waste was lack of knowledge regarding construction, embellishment and designing techniques while the least preferred problem was financial constraints Stitching as construction and designing technique and trimmings as embellishment technique were the commonly techniques used to construct, design and embellish various upcycled articles. Long kurti, children‟s dress, skirt, female shirt, gloves, and two piece dress as apparel and accessories, bed side runner, curtain, wall panel, door mat, bed sheet and designer pillow as home furnishing & accessories and bag organizer, hand bag, shoes organizer, multipurpose basket, clutch and wall pocket as utility articles were selected upcycled articles, developed in their top ranked designs by the researcher using pre and post apparel waste along with collected trimmings and fasteners. Hence, a total of 18 upcyled articles were developed which included six upcycled articles developed by using only post apparel waste, six by combination of pre and post apparel waste and remaining six upcycled articles were developed by post apparel waste with new textile material. The cost of all the upcycled home furnishing and accessories was maximum ranging from ` 145-648 followed by the cost of upcycled apparel and accessories i.e. ` 157-328. The cost of upcycled utility articles was minimum ranging from ` 69-271. All the developed upcycled articles were assessed highly acceptable by the consumers in terms of workmanship and utility. In terms of overall appearance, female shirt, curtain and wall pocket got Ist rank as apparel, home furnishing and utility article respectively. The cost of upcycled articles was considered „appropriate‟ by majority of consumers. Consumers had high opinion about all the upcycled articles and expert had high opinion regarding upcycling of pre and post apparel waste. After training the trainees acquired sufficient knowledge regarding various aspects of upcycling which was recorded statistically significance at 1 percent level of significance. Thus, pre and post apparel waste was upcycled efficiently in different combinations to produce a wide range of textile products by using various upcycling techniques as per apparel waste and upcycled articles.ThesisItem Open Access Microencapsulation of Vetiver Oil for Development of Aroma Wool Fabric(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2020-11) Rukhaya, Shalini; Rose, Neelam M.In recent years fragrance embedded textiles are being developed in areas of sustainability, environment consciousness, for healthy life style and well-being. Essential oil of several best known aromatic plants have therapeutic and sedative properties. Aromatherapy is a form of an alternative medicine in which essential oils are used to impart therapeutic effects. It is important to develop textile materials with added functional properties in order to promote healthy and eco-friendly life style. Therefore, the present study was carried out to develop aroma wool fabric using microencapsulated vetiver essential oil. To achieve the objectives anticipated in the research plan, vetiver essential oil was selected on the basis of aromatic and therapeutic properties. Neutral scouring of wool fabric was done to remove impurities and uniform application of aroma finish. For standardization of microencapsulation process, the ratios of core and wall materials, temperature and pH were optimized on the basis of size, distribution and quality of wall of formed microcapsules observed under inverted microscope. Different variables of aroma treatment i.e. padding bath components (microcapsule gel, softener and binder), material to liquor ratio, treatment temperature and time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis of presence of microcapsules on treated fabric, wash durability and improvement in fabric properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle. Microencapsulated vetiver oil was applied on wool fabric through pad-dry-cure method using optimized concentrations and conditions. SEM and FTIR analysis of aroma treated wool fabric was done. Physical (preliminary, mechanical and performance) and functional properties (antimoth, antibacterial and ultraviolet protection) of wool fabric were tested after aroma treatment. Aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity of aroma in treated fabric after subjecting to washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying were also assessed. The vetiver essential oil:gum:gelatin in the ratio 1:4:4 at 450 C temperature with initial pH 4.5 and final pH 7 were optimized for development of microcapsules as medium sized microcapsules having good uniformity in size and distribution with sharp and thick walls were obtained with these optimized process parameters. Aroma treatment was given to wool fabric using optimized concentrations of padding bath components i.e. 60 g/l microcapsule gel, 2 g/l softener and 10 g/l binder maintaining M:L ratio 1:20 for 30 minutes at 350 C treatment temperature as the fabric treated at these optimized conditions exhibited good wash durability and improved fabric properties. The 700 C drying temperature with 4 minutes drying time and 1000 C curing temperature with 60 seconds curing duration were optimized on the basis of presence of higher number of microcapsules, retention of aroma for longer duration and improvement in fabric properties of treated fabric. SEM analysis exhibited presence of numerous microcapsules of spherical shape and uniform size on the surface of aroma treated fabric. FTIR analysis showed presence of various functional groups at different peaks in aroma treated wool fabric. Preliminary properties i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness showed an increase after treating wool fabric with microencapsulated vetiver essential oil. Bending length, flexural rigidity, tensile strength and elongation of treated fabric also increased after aroma treatment. The moisture regain, wickability, water absorbency and crease recovery angle of scoured wool fabric decreased after aroma treatment while air permeability was found to be increased. Antimoth efficacy of microencapsulated vetiver essential oil treated fabric was better than scoured wool fabric. Scoured fabric showed no antibacterial activity in terms of zone of inhibition whereas aroma treated fabric exhibited antibacterial activity with 63.45 and 61.37 percent reduction in bacterial growth against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, respectively. Scoured wool fabric showed very good (30.25) UPF value while after aroma treatment it enhanced to 87.07 and the treated wool fabric came under excellent UV protection category. The aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity of aroma after exposure to different agencies i.e. washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying was found very good in fabric samples treated with microencapsulated vetiver essential oil. Thus, the microencapsulated vetiver essential oil can be used to impart durable aroma finish onto the wool fabric to develop functionalized textiles having antimoth, antibacterial and UV protection properties without any harmful effect on the physical properties of wool fabric.ThesisItem Open Access Application of plant extract on cotton fabric for bacterial resistance(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2020-02) Rajni; Yadav, SarojThe present research was intended to apply bacterial resistant finish on cotton fabric by using banyan leaves extract. To achieve the objectives projected in research design, banyan leaves extract was selected for bacterial resistance treatment on cotton fabric. Desizing and scouring were performed on the selected cotton fabric for uniform application of finish. The concentrations and conditions for applying the plant extracts on the fabrics were optimized on the basis of the bacterial resistance efficacy. The application of finish was performed with exhaust and pad-dry-cure methods using the optimized concentrations and conditions. The efficacy of herbal finish was assessed after 5 and 10 wash cycles in terms of percent reduction in bacterial count. The herbal treated fabrics were tested for change in physical and functional properties. Aqueous extract of banyan leaves was selected for application on the cotton fabric on the basis of maximum zone of inhibition exhibited against the test bacteria i.e. Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. It was found that yield percentage with repeated maceration (triple percolation) of extract was 16.03 percent for banyan leaves. The optimum variables for antibacterial treatment on the basis of maximum bacterial resistance were 17 percent concentration of banyan leaves extract,8 percent concentration of cross-linking agent, pH 6, material to liquor ratio 1:40 for exhaust and 1:20 for pad-dry-cure method, 60 min. at 600Ctreatment time and temperature for exhaust and 30 min. at 400C for pad-dry-cure method, 1100C for 5 min. drying temperature and time for exhaust and 1300C for 5 min. for pad-dry-cure method and 1400C for 5 min. were optimum temperature and time for curing of fabric treated by pad-dry-cure method. The treated fabrics exhibited 94.62 and 93.54 percent reduction in the bacterial count of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli after the application of banyan leaves extract by exhaust method whereas after the application of banyan leaves extract by pad-dry-cure method 95.82 and 95.70 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli respectively was observed. After 5 washing cycles, the treated fabrics exhibited 71.68 and 69.09 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. Coli respectively whereas after 10 washing cycles, the reduction in bacterial count was 68.14 and 63.27 percent for S. aureus and E. Coli respectively. For pad-dry-cure method, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli of the washed fabric after 5 washing cycles decreased by 73.47 and 70.98 percent respectively and after 10 washing cycles, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli was decreased by 62.61 and 59.72 percent respectively. The plant extract treated fabrics were tested for change in physical properties and it was found that fabric weight, thickness, bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery angle and elongation of plant extract treated fabric were increased whereas fabric count, tensile strength, moisture regain and air permeability were decreased. The herbal treated fabrics exhibited excellent ultraviolet protection i.e. 41.93 by exhaust and 48.06 by pad-dry-cure method. Thus, it is concluded that banyan leaves extract treated fabric exhibited excellent ultraviolet protection and crease resistance properties. Conclusively, banyan leaves were observed as an efficient natural source for imparting bacterial resistant finish on cotton fabric.ThesisItem Open Access Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on Softening of Jute Fabric(CCSHAU,HiSAR, 2020-06) Jamal, Zeba; Arya, NishaJute has many beneficial properties such as high tensile strength and modulus with good dimensional stability but has some drawbacks such as harshness, poor wrinkle recovery, high fiber shedding, yellowing on exposure to sunlight, susceptible to microbial attack and less resistant to fire. The present study has been conducted to note the effects of enzymatic treatment on softening of jute fabric. Desizing and scouring was done by conventional and enzymatic method. Enzymatic desizing and scouring depicted better water absorption and weight loss, hence it was continued. Three commercial softeners and four enzymes were procured on the basis of their suitability for softening of jute fabric. Eighteen combinations of commercial softeners and 39 combinations of enzymes were tried and one top ranked combination from each category selected on the basis of preference of experts was continued for further research work. Standardization of commercial softener and enzymatic treatment for jute fabric was done on the basis of improvement in mechanical properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and drape coefficient. Application of conventional chemical treatment was done by exhaust method. Application of aminosilicone softener and enzymatic treatment was done as per optimized conditions by pad dry cure method. SEM was done to understand the changes in surface morphology after each treatment. The changes in physical and functional properties after different treatments were studied. There was improvement in softness and drape after each treatment but maximum decrease in bending length (40.64 per cent in warp and 45.43 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (86.14 per cent) and drape coefficient (30.86 per cent) was observed after enzymatic treatment. The enzymatically treated jute fabric exhibited 13 CFUs for E.coli bacteria with 95.11 per cent reduction in the growth of bacteria whereas it showed 131 CFUs for S. aureus bacteria having 88.32 per cent reduction in the growth as compared to controlled sample. It was also discerned that the UPF value of the scoured fabric was 13.07 which increased to 57.64 when treated with enzymes with very good grade under protection category. The conventional chemical treatment also showed some improvement in UPF value (23.88) but the ultra violet protection property increased slightly (13.89) after commercial softener treatment. The differently treated fabric samples were washed 20 times and changes in physical and functional properties after 5, 10, 15 and 20 washing cycles were recorded. The enzymatic treatment was found to be most durable as it was successfully retained up to 15 washes. Preferences of experts‟ for development of products from enzymatically softened jute fabric was taken. Top two preferred products from three categories i.e. home furnishing articles, utility articles and apparel & accessories were selected for product development. Eighteen designs (3 for each selected article) were developed using Corel Draw 12 software. On the basis of experts‟ preference, top preferred design for each product was selected for product development. A total of six products viz. table runner, table mats (set of six), wall pocket, handbag, ladies jacket and cap were developed. Their cost was calculated including the cost of fabric, enzymatic treatment, stitching and finishing. The products were got assessed by fifty consumers for their market potential. All the developed products were highly acceptable by consumers. Thus, the enzymatic softening treatment is considered appropriate for jute fabric and it will help in mainstreaming and revival of its status in global market.ThesisItem Open Access Development of anti-felting wool fabric(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-06) Sushma Rani; Rose, Neelam M.Wool fabric is known for its luxury and unique properties like breathability, excellent thermal insulation, flame retardancy, thermo-regulation and comfort properties. However, poor dimensional stability is one of the major limitations of wool fabrics that is caused by the progressive fibre entanglement in the wool fabric after repeated launderings. Thus, there is an imperative need to develop a treatment which not only prevent the wool from felting but also take care of the nature and textile material itself. Therefore, the present study was undertaken to impart the anti-felting treatment to wool fabric using eco-friendly biopolymers and enzymes. Three biopolymers and four enzymes were selected for imparting anti-felting treatment to wool fabric. The pad-dry-cure method for biopolymer treatment and exhaust method for enzyme treatment of wool fabric were selected on the basis of maximum shrink resistance obtained after washing that included one relaxation cycle and three felting cycles. For standardization of anti-felting biopolymer treatment, different variables i.e. padding bath components (biopolymer, cross-linking agent, catalyst), pH, material to liquor ratio, treatment temperature and time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis of least percent area shrinkage achieved by treated wool fabric. For standardization of anti-felting enzyme treatment, concentration and material to liquor ratio for each selected enzyme were optimized on the basis of obtained minimum area shrinkage to wool fabric after washing. As enzymes are very sensitive to pH, treatment temperature and time, thus these treatment variables were kept specific as provided by the manufacturers. Anti-felting biopolymer and enzyme treatments were imparted to wool fabric using their optimized concentrations and conditions. Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FE-SEM) and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis of biopolymer and enzyme treated wool fabrics was done. The physical (preliminary, mechanical and performance) and functional properties (antibacterial and ultraviolet protection) of treated wool fabrics were tested to analyze the effect of anti-felting treatments. The durability of anti-felting biopolymer and enzyme treatments was assessed after washing, ironing and perspiration. The effect of anti-felting treatments on dyeability of the wool fabric with natural and synthetic dyes was also analyzed. Anti-felting biopolymer treatment was given to wool fabric through pad-dry-cure method with all the three selected biopolymers using optimized concentrations of padding bath components i.e. 0.5 percent for chitosan, gum arabic and wheat starch biopolymers, 6 percent for citric acid cross-linking agent and 6 percent for sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate catalyst maintaining material to liquor-ratio 1:30 having neutral pH at 35°C temperature for 10 minutes. The 60°C drying temperature with 30 minutes and 145°C curing temperature with 10 minutes were optimized on the basis of obtained maximum shrink resistance to wool fabric. Anti-felting enzyme treatment was imparted through exhaust method to wool fabric with optimum concentration of 2 percent for laccase and transglutaminase and 1 percent for lipase and protease enzymes keeping optimum MLR of 1:30. The enzyme treatment of wool were carried out using enzyme specific conditions i.e. 4.5 pH for lacccse, 8.5 pH for lipase and protease and 7.0 pH for transglutaminase enzyme maintaining 55ºC temperature for 60 minutes. FE-SEM analysis exhibited blunt scales after each biopolymer treatment and reduced sharpness of scales with all the four enzyme treatments. FTIR analysis exhibited presence of various functional groups at different peaks in biopolymer and enzyme treated wool fabrics. Preliminary properties i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness of wool fabric exhibited an increase when treated with biopolymers and enzymes. The bending and tensile properties of biopolymer and enzyme treated wool fabrics found comparable with that of scoured fabric while the frictional properties of wool fabric were found to be increased significantly after biopolymer and enzyme treatments. The moisture content and regain of all the treated wool fabrics found comparable with standard moisture content (13.50 %) and regain (16.00 %) of wool fabric. The wettability of scoured wool fabric remain unchanged after anti-felting biopolymer and enzyme treatments. The crease recovery angle of scoured wool fabric increased after biopolymer and enzyme treatments. The air permeability was found to be increased after treatment with chitosan and gum arabic biopolymers and lipase and transglutaminase enzymes. The whiteness of wheat starch and all the enzyme treated wool fabrics found comparable with scoured wool fabric. The whiteness index of all the treated fabrics was much lower than fabric treated with conventional method of shrink resistance. It was observed that all the treated wool fabrics exhibited good antibacterial activity against S. aureus and E. coli bacteria. The UPF value of scoured wool fabric enhanced after biopolymer and enzyme anti-felting treatments that came under excellent protection category. Both the anti-felting treatments were found to be effective to give dimensional stability to wool fabric against washing, ironing and perspiration. Biopolymer treated wool fabric dyed with natural dye showed increased colour strength. Thus, biopolymer and enzyme treatments can be used as viable and sustainable alternatives to conventional treatments for developing machine washable shrink-resistant wool fabric without any adverse effect on fabric properties.
