Development of multipurpose borders through digital embroidery
Abstract
The folk art and traditional idea that are glitter of our culture, when applied on textiles by a
commercial aspect is gaining popularity. Cutwork can serves as a great source of inspiration and ideas for
creating new designs in fashion world. The present study was conducted to develop multipurpose cutwork
borders using digital embroidery technique. Existing usage and purchase practices for borders were studied
from thirty consumers through self-structured interview schedule. The 264 traditional motifs of cutwork were
collected from secondary sources and screened for their suitability to borders as well as digital embroidery. The
screened motifs were categorized in two categories viz. geometrical and floral motifs. The motifs were shown
to the thirty experts to seek their preferences for selection of one third top preferred motifs from each category.
Preferences of experts were also taken for fabrics and base colour of fabric for borders. A total of sixty designs
were developed using the entire or component of selected thirty motifs with the help of CorelDRAW and
Photoshop software and five top raked designs were selected for placements. Created twenty five design
placements were again shown to the experts and one best placement of each selected five designs was chosen.
Five colour ways for each selected five design placements were simulated and colour way that secured first
rank was selected for embroidery. The selected five designs were converted into digital designs in embroidery
software by assigning different types of stitch to different parts of the design. Five borders were developed
through digital embroidery and cost of each border was calculated. The developed borders were assessed on
different parameters.
Results pertaining to existing usage and purchase practices followed by consumers for borders
inferred that 93.33 percent of the respondents used borders for decoration purpose mostly on saris, kameez,
dupatta, kurti, lengha, ladies kurta, cushion covers and bags. The important factors considered while buying
borders were purpose of use, decoration and ease of care. More than half of the consumers reported that
designs, colour and material of the available borders were not as per their preferences. The two third of
respondents did not prefer use of any type of embellishment materials for borders. 90.00 percent respondents
preferred to buy cutwork borders from retail shops. Out of 90 screened motifs, thirty motifs selected for design
development were motif number 3, 5, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 22, 23, 26, 31, 33, 37, 41 and 44 in geometrical
category and motif number 1, 2, 3, 12, 15, 16, 19, 21, 23, 24, 26, 35, 41, 42 and 45 in floral category. The top
preferred five designs i.e. design number 12, 20, 28, 48 and 55 were selected for creation of design placements.
The most preferred placement of selected five designs were placement II of design number 12 and 28,
placement III of design number 20, placement I of design number 48 and placement V of design number 55.
The most preferred colour ways for digital embroidery on borders were monochromatic in design number 12,
triad in design number 20, complementary in design number 28, analogous in design number 48 and 55. Five
borders of ten meters length and preferred width were developed through digital embroidery technique using
the most preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs on net fabric of light beige colour. All
the developed borders were found very appealing and highly accepted by consumers on all the parameters of
assessment regarding suitability of digital embroidery technique in design development for borders using
cutwork motifs. The digital embroidered borders were also found suitable for multipurpose use. The cost of the
digital embroidered borders was rated appropriate by majority of the consumers. Thus, traditional motifs of
cutwork adapted for designing borders infusing CAD/CAM technology is the best way not only to revive the
age old practices but also makes it available globally.
Description
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