Scouring of woollen fabric using enzymes
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Date
2006
Authors
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Publisher
CCSHAU
Abstract
Wool is one of our most versatile fibre. It is such a complex blend of
properties that modern science still cannot duplicate it or create a synthetic clone.
Scouring through enzymes is a new concept in scouring of natural fibres with an
enzyme-based formulation for efficient removal of natural impurities from wool
without any fatal damage to the fibre. But recipe optimization, type and
suitability of enzymes for different substrates still remain as potential domain for
research. So the present study was undertaken under the objectives: to optimize
the conditions for enzyme treatment of woollen fabric and to study the physical
properties of the treated fabric.
Two enzymes namely cellulase (palkosoft super 720) and protease
(palkowool LPL) were used for enzyme treatment on pure grey woollen fabric,
with different concentrations, time periods, pH and temperatures. Some of the
basic fabric properties i.e. weight per unit area, tensile strength, and change in
colour were measured for optimization of process conditions for enzymatic
scouring. It was observed that with the increase in concentration and duration of
enzyme treatment there was increase in weight per unit area loss and tensile
strength loss. In case of pH and temperature there was less loss at higher pH and
temperature. The optimum conditions for cellulase enzyme treatment were
selected as 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes time at pH 7 and
temperature 60oC whereas the optimum conditions selected for protease enzyme
treatment were 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes at pH 8 and
temperature 70oC. The selection of conditions was carried out by the objective
assessment of colour change, weight per unit area loss and tensile strength loss.
Further physical properties of the optimized samples were measured by
following standard procedure.
The enzymatic scouring with cellulase and protease enzymes results in
significant increase in fabric count, crease recovery angle, pilling resistance,
abrasion resistance and colour change whereas non significant increase were
found in bulk property after enzymatic treatment. Significant decreases were
observed in weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp direction elongation
of protease enzyme treated woollen fabric. After enzymatic treatment with both
enzymes there were significant decrease in weft direction elongation, bending
length, flexural rigidity, shrinkage and porosity. Non-significant decreases were
observed in case of weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp wise
elongation when woollen fabric was treated with cellulase enzymes. There was a
non-significant decrease in thickness and drape coefficient after enzymatic
scouring with both enzymes. So it is recommended that use of enzymes for the
purpose of woollen scouring is more beneficial and eco friendly than
conventional scouring of woollen fabric.