A COMPARATIVE STUDY ON DYEING WITH CANNONBALL FRUIT (COUROUPITA GUIANENSIS) AND NATURAL INDIGO

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Date
2022-08-23
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guntur
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ABSTRACT In concern with the environmental pollution, world is now shifting its interest toward 100 per cent environmental friendly products. Natural dyes suffice this concern of consumers in reducing the pollution level of dyeing industry. The meagre resources coupled with demand has shifted the focus of dyeing industry to investigate synthetic sources which are similar to natural dyes in terms of colour yet being more economical. One such dye is natural Indigo, which is now substituted with synthetic alternatives owing to the demand and weak supply market scenario. This alternative is costing the environment by its enormous pollution levels due to toxic chemical usage in its synthesis and dyeing. Demand for pure natural products and resistance from environmentalists, made researchers deliberate to explore for alternate sources and experiment to combat pollution. Present study is focussed on using natural, eco-friendly alternative source of Indigo dye for cotton fabric and to compare with the already existing age old source. Cannonball fruit was used as a new source for Indigo dye and Indigofera tinctoria was used to compare it in terms of dyeing and properties on cotton fabric. Natural dye has poor affinity for cellulosic fibers due to large dye molecules and it is also true with Indigo dye. Four natural tannin mordants Pomegranate peel (Punica granatum), Amla fruit (Emblica officinalis), Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis miller), and Tamarind seed coat (Tamarind indica) were selected to observe the effect of mordants on colour strength and colour fastness of Indigo dyes. Dye extraction and dyeing methods were optimized for both Cannonball fruit and Indigo leaf powder dyes. Dye was extracted by fermenting the ripe fruit of Cannonball tree for three days. Dyeing was carried out after filtrate reduced with 1g of Sodium hydroxide and 2g of Sodium hydrosulphite at temperature of 900 C for 10 minutes and dyed at 900 C for 30 minutes. 15 Dye was extracted from Indigo leaf powder by fermenting for 24 h and the extract was reduced at 700 C with 12g/l of Sodium hydroxide and 10g/l of Sodium hydrosulphite for 30 min and dyed at 700 C for 30 min. Three mordant concentrations of each mordant ie. Tamarind seed coat (Ts10%, 15%, 20%), Aloe vera (Av 20g/l, 30g/l, 40g/l), Amla fruit (Am 10%, 15%, 25%), Pomegranate peel (Pp 10%, 15%, 25%) and two mordanting methods ie. Pre mordanting and Post mordanting were used in the study. Analysis of dyed fabric samples in Cannonball fruit dye, indicated that post mordanting was better than pre mordanting and colour strength improved with all mordants except Av over control. Most of the concentrations of Ts, Am and Pp mordant showed higher colour strength over control. L* a* b* values showed that all dyed fabrics except Aloe vera mordanted fabrics were lighter in shade than control. Ts and Pp mordanted fabrics showed negative a* values in pre mordanted samples. All pre and post mordanted samples with all other mordants showed negative b* values except post mordanted samples of Pp extract. Aloe vera as mordant has not influenced the properties of dyed fabrics. Indigo leaf powder dyed samples showed improved colour strength, with all mordants. Pre mordanting with Ts had higher colour strength over post mordanting. Pre mordanting with Av and Pp at lower concentration improved colour strength. Amla fruit mordant showed good colour strength in almost all concentration over other mordants. L* values were lower in mordanted samples over control. Pre mordanted with Ts and post mordanted with Av fabrics showed negative a* values. Almost all mordanted fabrics showed negative b* values except in Ts post mordanted and Pp pre mordanted ones. Colour fastness was graded good in both Cannonball fruit and Indigo leaf powder dyed fabrics with mordanting with all four mordants over control. Ts mordant showed good wash fastness compared to other three mordants in both the dyes. Dry rubbing fastness grades were good over wet rubbing in all four mordants. Rubbing fastness grades in Cannonball fruit dyed fabrics exhibited higher improvement with Amla fruit mordant. In Indigo leaf powder dyed samples rub fastness grades were good with Tamarind seed coat mordant. Amla fruit mordant showed good light fastness in Cannonball fruit dyed samples whereas Aloe vera mordant showed good light fastness in Indigo leaf powder dyed samples. Improved perspiration fastness was observed with all four mordants in both the dyes. All mordants improved colour strength and colour fastness of the Indigo dyed fabrics. Since no chemical mordants and dyes were used in the study, it will be helpful for small scale textile dyeing sectors for better colour strength of Indigo dyed fabrics and overcome the problem of colourfastness.
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A COMPARATIVE STUDY ON DYEING WITH CANNONBALL FRUIT (COUROUPITA GUIANENSIS) AND NATURAL INDIGO
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