EVALUATION OF TWILL WEAVE FABRICS MADE OF BLENDED ERI-MODAL AND ERIACRYLIC YARNS SUITABLE FOR DIFFERENT DRESS DESIGNS
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Date
2018-06
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Publisher
AAU, Jorhat
Abstract
Dress designing has always been an important art and a well- designed garment
has beauty and appropriateness, which makes it right for the wearer. To achieve a good
fit, it is necessary to give attention to finer details such as fabric structure, individual
proportion and contours. In textiles, fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and
designs which are produced by different weaving techniques that enhance the look of
aesthetic value of the apparels. Union fabrics are those, where fabrics are created with
warp of one kind of yarn and weft of another yarn or blended yarn in one direction or
both warp and weft direction of different blended yarn. Weaving of such fabrics has
opened a new era with limitless possibilities in the field of textile, as well as in fashion
world. The review of the literature suggested that there is an increased interest in blending
of silk with other fibres but limited work has been done regarding blending of eri silk
with modal and acrylic on commercial spinning system.
Therefore, the investigation was carried out to “Evaluation of twill weaves fabrics
made of blended eri-modal and eri-acrylic yarns suitable for different dress designs” with
the objectives to blend the yarns in different proportions using selected fibres, to analyse
the physical properties of selected fibres and yarns, to construct the union fabrics of
different twill weaves using selected yarns, to assess the mechanical, comfort and tactile
properties of woven fabrics, to design and construct different dresses based on the fabric
properties and to take opinion on constructed dresses.
The study was limited in three different types of fibres- eri silk, modal and
acrylic and three blend proportions were selected, 30:70, 50:50 and70:30.The weaves were
limited to only twill weave and derivatives of twill i.e. herringbone and diamond.
The present study was conducted to analyze the physical and mechanical
characteristics of fibre. The count and diameter of eri silk fiber were higher than modal and
acrylic fiber. Whiteness index and the Initial Modulus were found to be highest in modal and
lowest in eri-silk. Fibre density and moisture content observed maximum in eri silk
followed by modal and acrylic. The tenacity and specific work of rupture of acrylic fibre was
greater than modal and eri silk fibre. The results indicated that elongation per cent for eri silk
is higher as compared to modal and acrylic fibre.
Six developed yarns with varying proportions and one definite count (1/30s) with Z
twist were prepared. From the study it was found that the physical and mechanical properties
of yarn samples of both the controlled and blended were significant at 5% level of
significance and all the samples were found to be different with each other.
The developed twill, herringbone and diamond weaves woven fabrics were
analyzed for physical, mechanical and comfort properties. Interaction among all the
tested samples, the highest fabric count and cloth cover factor were observed in EA
30:70 with diamond weave in both direction. The fabric weight and thickness of all the
controlled samples were in increasing trend as compared to union fabrics. Regarding
the interaction between all the test fabrics in both the way i.e. warp and weft way
controlled eri silk with diamond fabrics was exhibited highest mean value in stiffness,
drape co-efficient and dimensional stability. Maximum mean value of flexural rigidity
was observed in sample EM 30:70 and the crease recovery angle of all the test samples
in both warp and weft direction was seen in sample EA 30:70 with twill weave.The
highest wicking height in both the warp and weft direction was observed in controlled
modal with diamond weave. Among all the test fabrics, EA 30:70 were exhibited highest
values of tensile strength and loss in mass in warp and weft-way. The modal test fabrics
with twill weave showing increase trend of air permeability and thermal conductivity.
The maximum mean value of thermal insulation was observed in sample controlled
acrylic with diamond weave.
Subjective evaluations of union fabrics were done by 100 respondents to
assess the fabrics visual inspection like appearance, lustre, handle, texture and suitability
of products prepared from union fabrics. Respondent opined that all the woven samples
have good appearance, soft in hand and smooth in texture. It was observed that cent
percent of respondents found eri-modal blended union fabrics with three weaves were high
in lustre. The rank order of preferences for the constructed dresses were evaluated by the
respondents and it was interesting to note that the rank order of preferences for selection of
dress designs and the constructed dresses were found to be similar. The costs of blended
yarn were got reduced in comparison to that of 100 per cent eri-silk yarn and it was
also observed that the cost of blended union fabrics of different proportion that got
reduced in comparison to that of controlled eri silk fabrics.