DESIGNING AND CREATING OF APPARELS INSPIRED FROM TRADITIONAL MOTIFS OF MISHING COMMUNITY OF ASSAM
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Date
2017-01
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AAU, Jorhat
Abstract
Designs are of great importance when it comes to give an enchanting and
intriguing look to the textile products. Textile designing is full of creativity and scope
with vast horizon, and is a demanding and emerging field. With the changing world of
fashion, the field of textile demands for unique, different and fresh designs which give
us the opportunity to use the adapted traditional motifs. Escalating demands of
consumers requires modification in the fashion industry with respect to design, colour,
style and technique. So, an attempt was made to designing apparels inspired from
traditional motifs Mishing community of the Assam with following objectives-
1. To study and document the traditional motifs and designs of Mishing
Community of Assam
2. To develop and create patterns for apparel using the existing motifs in a
diversified way
3. To construct selected apparels for adolescents
4. To assess the consumer acceptability of the products.
Through this study the investigator attempts to popularize the traditional
textile motifs of Mishing community and its value addition to different apparels. To
carry out the study, wide range of Mishing traditional textile motifs were documented
and collected from six selected districts of Assam- Dhemaji, Lakhimpur, Dibrugarh,
Sibasagar, Jorhat and Golaghat through personal visit to common textile weavers. A
preliminary study was conducted on the selection of the motifs. A set of fifty two
numbers of ladies and gents apparels suitable for adolescents were designed and
sketched with different colour combination and placed the chosen motifs for their
opinion. Out of fifty two, fourteen designs were selected based on the results of the
survey conducted. The selected designs were: 1(W), 2(W), 3(F), 4(W), 5(E), 6(W), 6(F),
7(E), 8(B), 9(B), 10(W), 11(W), 12(W), and 13(W). For woven techniques, peg plans
were prepared in REACH Tax Software for each and every motif and carried out the
weaving process. For other three techniques, the patterns of motifs were developed in
Coral Draw Software. The basic blocks were prepared and drafted based on the
standardized body measurements. The cost of each constructed garments were
calculated by considering the cost of material, cost of accessories used, labour cost and
the profit.
The constructed apparels with different techniques were: Tunic (woven),
Short summer dress (woven), Long gown (fabric painting), Top and Capri (woven),
Palazzo (embroidery), Kurti (woven), Kurti (fabric painting), Fitted skirt and top
(embroidery), Stole (block printing), Mekhela chadar (block printing), Neck tie
(woven), Gent’s formal shirt (woven), Nehru jacket (woven) and Gent’s waist jacket
(woven).
The constructed apparels were displayed at the Department of Textiles
and Apparel Designing, Faculty of Home Science, AAU, Jorhat and systematically
evaluated by a panel of 50 judges including staff members and Ph.D scholars based on
criteria’s like proper placement of the motifs, forms of existing motifs, colour
combination, fitness and overall appearance of the apparel.
The constructed apparels were again evaluated by 50 consumers from
different fields of textiles, to assess the consumer’s acceptability in terms of general
appearance, design of the apparel, colour combination of the apparels, selection of the
traditional motif, arrangement of the motif, colour combination of the motifs. The
evaluation was carried out in Faculty of Home Science, Assam Agricultural University,
Jorhat-13, Department of Fashion Technology, Women’s University, Jorhat and Jorhat
market, including faculty members; Post graduate students, Ph.D scholars and Fashion
designers. The evaluation was carried out with the help of a structured questionnaire.
From the results of the survey, majority of the respondents rated as
excellent in terms of general appearance, design of apparels, colour combination,
selection of the motifs, techniques used for developing the motifs, arrangement of the
motifs and overall appearance of the constructed apparel. They also stated that all
selected motifs were nicely incorporated in the respective apparels with exclusive
colour combinations. Among all the 14 numbers of constructed apparel, the Design No.
1(W) was rated 1st rank whereas Design No. 6(F), 12(W), 10(W), 11(W), 8(B), 6(W),
3(D), 13(W), 5(E), 9(B), 2(W), 4(W) and 7(E) were rated rank from 2nd to 14th
respectively.
From the above findings it can be concluded that it is possible to develop
new and interesting designs from the existing Mishing traditional motifs to meet the
excessive demands of contemporary designs in the fashion and apparel fields and also
increase the variety of designs in the field of textiles. This study will help the fashion
designers for creating more innovative ideas in the field of fashion designing and also it
will help the motivates people to come up with an ingenious work, which indirectly help
in upgrading the art and craft of Assam as well as India’s.