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Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar
Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University popularly known as HAU, is one of Asia's biggest agricultural universities, located at Hisar in the Indian state of Haryana. It is named after India's seventh Prime Minister, Chaudhary Charan Singh. It is a leader in agricultural research in India and contributed significantly to Green Revolution and White Revolution in India in the 1960s and 70s. It has a very large campus and has several research centres throughout the state. It won the Indian Council of Agricultural Research's Award for the Best Institute in 1997. HAU was initially a campus of Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. After the formation of Haryana in 1966, it became an autonomous institution on February 2, 1970 through a Presidential Ordinance, later ratified as Haryana and Punjab Agricultural Universities Act, 1970, passed by the Lok Sabha on March 29, 1970. A. L. Fletcher, the first Vice-Chancellor of the university, was instrumental in its initial growth.
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ThesisItem Open Access Effect of eco-friendly mordant on dyeability of cotton fabric with anionic dye(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-02) Divya; Verma, MonaTextile industry is considered as one of the most ecologically harmful industry in the world. There is need to approach new strategies, methods, material for dyeing treatment for environmentally friendly modification of cotton fibres for improvement of dyeability of cotton fabric with anionic dyes. To achieve the objectives of the study, different types of mordants with different direct dyes, were tried and one mordant and one direct dye was selected on the basis of colour properties of dyed fabrics. MMW chitosan and direct red dye was selected for further standardization work. Standardization of mordant treatment and dyeing process was done on the basis of percent dye absorption, colour strength (K/S) value and wash fastness grades (CC) for different variables. Application of standardized MMW chitosan and direct red dye was given on cotton fabric using exhaust method. It was found that the chitosan treated dyed cotton fabric showed higher dye absorption (71.20%), colour strength (14.01), wash fastness rating very good (4/5) than SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric having dye absorption (68.56%), colour strength (10.46 K/S) and good (4) wash fastness. The MMW chitosan treated dyed fabric showed higher crease recovery (100 degree) than SSSC treated dyed (94.1 degree) cotton fabric. The MMW chitosan treated dyed fabric showed increased percent reduction in bacterial growth against E. coli (85.51%) and S. aureus (86.20%) bacteria than SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric, 17.75% and 18.22% respectively. The MMW chitosan treated dyed cotton fabric reflected the higher UPF value (213.94) than with SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric (110.35). MMW chitosan treated dyed fabrics demonstrated better antibacterial and ultraviolet protection property than SSSC treated dyed fabrics. Thus, it was concluded that MMW chitosan treatment can enhance the colour properties of cotton fabric without using any harsh chemicals and is capable enough to replace the use of metallic salts/electrolytes in the dyeing of cotton fabric with anionic dyes. The chitosan treatment along with direct red dye played an important role in imparting the multifunctionality to cotton fabric by imparting UV protection, bacterial resistance and crease resistance in efficient way with eco-friendly and safe mordant method which will curtail the pollution load on environment.ThesisItem Open Access Application of natural dye with biomordant to enhance the dyeability of cotton fabric(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-05) Kushwah, Namrata; Arya, NishaIncreasing concern about environmental pollution in all aspects of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of biomordants have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the purpose of this study was to evaluate the impact of biomordants on the effectiveness of dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dyes as an alternative to metal based mordants and salts. Standardization of biomordanting process for two biomordants i.e. curry leaves and pomegranate peel for sappanwood dye and two biomordants i.e. lemon peel and pomegranate peel for madder dye was done on the basis of dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different concentrations and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabric was pretreated with selected biomordants and dyed with selected natural dyes. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of the biomordant treated dyed fabric samples were done. SEM analysis demonstrated plain surface of biomordant treated sample and FTIR analysis revealed the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to biomordant treatment. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordant treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were mordanting with 11 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio, 9 pH, at 60°C treatment temperature and 60 minutes treatment time for curry leaves and pomegranate peel, respectively for sappanwood dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were mordanting with 15 and 11 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio and 1:40 M: L Ratio, 7 and 9 pH, at 60°C and 45°C treatment temperature and 60 and 45 minutes treatment time for lemon peel and pomegranate peel, respectively for madder dye. All the biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The curry leaves treated and pomegranate peel treated dyed (sappanwood) fabric and lemon peel and pomegranate peel treated dyed (madder) fabric showed the highest UPF value indicating excellent protection category The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed good bacterial resistance against E. coli and S. aureus. Thus, it is concluded that biomordant treatment enhanced the dyeing efficacy of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant treatment of fabric samples dyed with natural dye improved the performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence, the biomordants are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.ThesisItem Open Access Utilization of biopolymer for screen printing of silk with natural dyes(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-10) Ritika; Yadav, SarojDyeing and printing with natural dyes are age old crafts and require artistic skill to develop colours and patterns on fabric using certain techniques. In lieu of synthetic dyes and changing market trends, the demand for natural dyed/printed products diminished. However, with stringent environment regulations and increasing interest of consumers, the use of natural dyes and biopolymers for textile processing is gaining momentum. Natural dyes and biopolymers or their combination can be applied on the textile fabrics to obtain varying colour or shade to increase the dye uptake and improve the colour fastness behaviour of any natural dye. Hence, the present study was undertaken to replace the metal based mordants and promote the use of biopolymers for textile printing. Chitosan biopolymer with five different natural dyes was explored to assceratain the effect of biopolymer mordanting in screen printing of silk fabric. Prior to biopolymer treatment the enzymatic degummimg of silk fabric was carried out using a combination of protease and papain enzymes (75:25) to improve its wettability. On the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness towards change in colour (CC) and colour staining (CS), chitosan biopolymer and two natural dyes were selected for screen printing of silk fabric. To prepare the printing paste of selected natural dye extracts, two thickeners namely guar gum and gum acacia were tried. On the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness grades, one thickner was selected. The different variables of printing receipe viz. biopolymer concentration, mordanting method, dye extract concentration, dye extract: thickener ratio and fixer concentration were optimized on the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness properties (CC and CS) of screen printed silk fabric samples. The silk fabric was screen printed as per optimized variables of printing receipe. For biopolymer mordanting and screen priniting of silk fabric with natural dyes, chitosan biopolymer along with indigo and lac dyes were selected on the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness (CC and CS) grades of screen printed silk fabric samples. The guar gum thickner was selected to prepare the printing paste of indigo and lac dye extracts. The optimized variables viz. 15 percent concentration of chitosan biopolymer, pre mordanting method, 5 and 6 percent concentration of indigo and lac dyes respectively, 1:2 ratio of dye extract: thickener and 4 percent concentration of acrafix fixer were used for screen printing of silk fabric. The colour coordinates in terms of L*, a*, b*, C*, H* values and colour strength (K/S) of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dyes printed silk fabric samples reflected the improvement in colour properties of biopolymer treated printed silk fabric samples as compared to unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed samples. The colour fastness properties towards wash, light, perspiration and rubbing of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dye printed samples ranged between good (4) to excellent (5) which were observed to be higher in comparison to unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed samples. Priliminary properties i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness of chitosan biopolymer mordanted printed samples exhibited an increase in these properties. The physical properties studied in terms of bending length, tensile strength, elongation and performance properties i.e. crease recovery angle and functional properties viz. UV protection and antibacterial activity of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dyes printed silk fabric samples expressed an increase in these proeprties when compared with unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed silk fabric samples. It is thus concluded that pre mordanting of silk fabric with chitosan biopolymer for screen printing with indigo and lac dyes enhanced the depth of colour, sharpness of print, evenness of print, overall appearance of print and colour properties, colour fastness to various agencies as well as physical and functional properties of screen printed silk fabric samples. Hence, chitosan biopolymer can be successfully used as viable approach to replace the conventional metal based mordants.ThesisItem Open Access Development of embroidered wall panels using traditional designs of Haryana(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-06) Sharma, Minakshi; Gill, ParulHandicrafts are considered a symbol of the culture and tradition of a community or race. Motifs depicting Haryanvi culture and rural life may be conceptualized to create new patterns unique to the Haryana state. The present study was conducted on the adaptation of the pictorial designs depicting Haryanvi culture and traditions for the development of wall panels through hand embroidery in combination with other embellishments. Initially, a total of 200 traditional designs of Haryana were collected from secondary sources like books, magazines, theses etc. The collected designs were screened by the researcher according to their suitability for wall panels. The 95 screened designs were categorized as household activities, farm activities, livestock rearing, dance and music, rituals and festivals, buildings and structures, crafts, games and miscellaneous activities. The highest number of screened designs were from household activities, dance and music and games categories i.e., 17 designs in each, whereas the lowest number of screened designs were from category crafts of Haryana i.e., 4 designs. The 95 screened designs were converted into pencil sketches with the help of software like ‘Photo Director’ and ‘Pencil Sketch Your Photo Online’. These converted designs were got assessed by thirty experts and ten most preferred designs were selected for further study. Using the combination of these selected designs, twenty-five placements were created with the help of Corel DRAW. Preferences for design placements were taken from the experts. Five colourways for each of the selected five design placements were prepared i.e. total 25 colourways were prepared and expert preferences were sought. Five most preferred colourways (i.e. one for each design) were selected for the purpose of development of wall panels. Fabric and base colour for wall panels were selected as per experts' preferences. Five wall panels were prepared using preferred design placements and colourways through hand embroidery in combination with other embellishments i.e., gotta, lace, fabric painting, mirror work and sequins work. The cost of each wall panel was determined by totaling the cost of raw material, labour and finishing charges. Developed wall panels were got assessed by thirty consumers for their acceptability on different design parameters and overall appearance. The price of wall panels was considered to be appropriate by the majority of consumers. Consumers strongly believed that these developed designs gave a traditional look to wall panels. They affirmed that they would like to purchase these types of wall panels. Therefore, it may be concluded that creativity and scope of designing for the development of wall panels were enhanced when traditional designs depicting Haryanvi culture were created through embroidery in combination with other embellishments.ThesisItem Open Access Effect of biomordants on dyeability of cotton fabric with natural dye(CCS HAU, Hisar, 2020-07) Neeta; Arya, NishaIncreasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of biomordants have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study has been planned to assess the effect of biomordant on dyeing efficacy of cotton with natural dye substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of biomordanting process for two biomordants i.e. harad and heena was done on the basis of dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different concentrations and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabric were pre-treated with selected two biomordants and dyed with selected natural dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of biomordanted fabric samples. SEM analysis demonstrated plain surface of biomordant treated sample. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordant treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were pre mordanting stage with 5 and 10 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio, 6 and 4 pH, 60° and 80°C treatment temperature and 60 and 45 minutes treatment time for heena and harad, respectively. Both the biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among both the biomordants treated dyed fabrics, heena treated dyed fabric showed maximum increase in bending length (2.39 cm) and heena treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (29.68%), crease recovery angle (113 degree), moisture regain (10 %) and wickability (3.86cm). The heena treated and Babool bark dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (56.89) indicating excellent protection category while in harad treated dyed fabric UPF value was (48.76). The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (93.35%) and S. aureus (88.07%). Thus, it is concluded that biomordants treatment enhanced the dyeing efficacy of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant treatment and Babool bark dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence, the biomordants are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.ThesisItem Open Access Effect of Biomordants on Dyeability of Cotton Fabric with Ashoka Bark dye(Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University hisar, 2022-07) Savita; Lalita RaniIncreasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. The present study has been planned to assess the effect of different biomordants treatment on dyeing efficiency of cotton for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of biomordants treatment for two biomordants i.e. lemon and Henna was done on the basis of percent dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different biomordants concentration and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabrics were pretreated with the two biomordants and dyed with ashoka bark dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of biomordants treated fabrics of selected dye. SEM analysis demonstrated smoother surface of biomordant treated sample. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordants treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordants treatment of scoured fabric were premordanting stage with 5 and 10 per cent concentration, 1:30 M:L Ratio, 4pH, 70°and 60°C treatment temperature and 60 and 60 minutes treatment time for Henna and lemon respectively. All these treatment variables were same for the scoured fabric. All the two biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to good (4) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among both the biomordants treated dyed fabrics, lemon treated dyed fabric showed maximum increase in bending length (2.13 cm) and lemon treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (42.72%), crease recovery angle (114.60 degree) in Henna, moisture regain (12.09 %) in Henna treated and wickability (4.19cm) in Henna treated. The scoured Henna treated and ashoka bark dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (47.55) indicating excellent protection category while in scoured lemon treated dyed fabric UPF value was (44.65). The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (91.41%) and S. aureus (92.51%). Thus it is concluded that biomordants treatment enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant pretreatment and ashoka bark dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack.ThesisItem Open Access Application of Biopolymer Nano Particles for Improving the Dye Uptake of Cotton Fabric(Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University hisar, 2023-09) Raveena; Verma, MonaTextile dyeing and printing industry is one of the most polluting sectors from an ecological point of view. There is need to approach new strategies, methods, material for dyeing treatment of cotton fabric with natural dyes using environment benign route. To achieve the objectives of the study, different sizes of biopolymer chitosan nano-particles for onion skin dye, were tried and one was selected on the basis of colour properties of dyed fabrics. Standardization of chitosan nano-particles treatment process for onion skin dye was done on the basis of colour properties i.e., dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness for different concentrations and conditions. It was found that the chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed higher dye absorption (69.36%), colour strength (18.54), wash fastness rating than alum treated dyed fabric (66.21%, 14.21 K/S respectively. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed higher crease recovery (90.5 degree) than alum treated (87.3 degree) dyed fabric. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed increased bacterial resistance against E. coli (97.17 %) and S. aureus (98.30%) bacteria than alum treated dyed fabric (87.00 % and 84.74 %) respectively. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin fabric showed the higher UPF value (85.91) than with alum treated dyed cotton fabric (71.94). Chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabrics demonstrated better of antibacterial and ultra-violet protection property than alum treated and dyed fabrics. Thus, it was concluded that chitosan treatment enhanced colour properties without using any harsh chemicals and is capable enough to replace the use of metallic salts in the dyeing of natural dye. The chitosan nano-particle treatment along with onion skin dye imparted the multi-functionality to the cotton fabric in terms of excellent UV protection, bacterial resistance and crease-resistant properties in effective manner with environmental benign way to curtail the pollution burden on environment.ThesisItem Open Access Effects of Softening Agent on Drapability of Cotton Khadi Fabric” submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-01) Chauhan, Neha; Arya, NishaKhadi can be deliberated as the vocal evocative of the Indian cottage Industry. Khadi fabric is emerging as a fashion fabric with shifted designers‟ interest in apparels but khadi also has drawbacks associated with it as cotton khadi is prone to wrinkles, poor drapability, higher maintenance cost etc. The present study has been conducted to study the effects of softening agent on drapability of cotton khadi fabric. Desizing and scouring was done by conventional and enzymatic method. Enzymatic desizing and scouring depicted better water absorption; hence it was continued for further research work. Three commercial softeners and three enzymes were procured on the basis of their suitability for softening of cotton khadi fabric. Eighteen combinations of commercial softeners and eighteen combinations of enzymes were tried and one top ranked combination from each category was selected on the basis of preference of experts. Standardization of commercial softener and enzymatic treatment for cotton khadi fabric was done on the basis of improvement in mechanical properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and drape coefficient. Application of conventional chemical treatment was done by exhaust method. Application of amino-silicone softener and enzymatic treatment was done as per optimized conditions by pad dry cure method. SEM was done to understand the changes in surface morphology and FTIR analysis was performed for understanding the functional groups after each treatment. The changes in physical and functional properties after different treatments were studied. The results showed improvement in softness and drape after each treatment with decrease in bending length (1.29 per cent in warp and 5.43 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (5.93 per cent) and drape coefficient (6.89 per cent) after conventional chemical treatment. After commercial softener treatment also, decrease in bending length (9.09 per cent in warp and 15.21 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (21.53 per cent) and drape coefficient (16.92 per cent) was observed and maximum decrease in bending length (18.18 per cent in warp and 27.17 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (41.06 per cent) and drape coefficient (28.37 per cent) was observed after enzymatic treatment. The treated cotton khadi fabric was assessed for reduction in the growth of bacteria for K. pneumoniae and S. aureus. Conventional chemical treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 for K. pneumoniae and 9.37 per cent for S. aureus whereas commercial softener treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 36.48 for K. pneumoniae and 45.31 for S. aureus. Enzymatically treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 per cent for K. pneumoniae and 37.50 for S. aureus in the growth as compared to controlled sample. It was also discerned that the UPF value of the scoured fabric was 8.07 which increased to 17.54 when treated with enzymes with good grade under protection category. The conventional chemical treatment also showed improvement in UPF value with moderate grade protection(14.70) but the ultra violet protection property increased slightly (8.88) after commercial softener treatment. The differently treated fabric samples were washed and changes in physical properties after 5, 10, 15 and 20 washing cycles were recorded. Conclusively, the application of softening agents improved the drapability and other physical as well as functional properties of treated cotton khadi fabric and will be beneficial for fulfilling the growing demand of suitable fabric hand and drape.ThesisItem Open Access Upcycling of pre and post apparel waste(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-01) Sodhi, Suman; Vivek SinghThe present research was conducted in Hisar city of Haryana state to design and develop a variety of textile products by utilizing pre and post apparel waste in different combinations. Fifty women were selected purposively from different areas of Hisar city to collect information regarding existing upcycling practices for pre and post apparel waste. The pre and post apparel waste was collected from boutique owners, tailors and known shopkeepers. Top ranked designs of six selected articles from each articles i.e. apparel and accessories, home furnishing & accessories and utility articles were selected and developed by the researcher using pre and post apparel waste. Hence, a total of 18 upcyled articles were developed. Cost of the developed upcycled articles was calculated on the basis of the cost of raw material used and labour charges. The cost of pre and post apparel waste was not calculated and added as these were collected free of cost The selling price of developed upcycled article was calculated by adding 10 percent profit to the cost price of each developed upcycled article. All the women were stitching female garments and majority of them were also engaged in alterations and repairs of garments. All the respondents possessed pre-apparel waste in the form of fabric scrapes and post-apparel waste in the form of rejected and damaged garments. They upcycled pre- apparel waste for repair and alteration of garments while gave away the post apparel waste i.e. discarded and damaged garments to servants, relatives, friends and charity. Major problem faced by respondents in upcycling of pre and post apparel waste was lack of knowledge regarding construction, embellishment and designing techniques while the least preferred problem was financial constraints Stitching as construction and designing technique and trimmings as embellishment technique were the commonly techniques used to construct, design and embellish various upcycled articles. Long kurti, children‟s dress, skirt, female shirt, gloves, and two piece dress as apparel and accessories, bed side runner, curtain, wall panel, door mat, bed sheet and designer pillow as home furnishing & accessories and bag organizer, hand bag, shoes organizer, multipurpose basket, clutch and wall pocket as utility articles were selected upcycled articles, developed in their top ranked designs by the researcher using pre and post apparel waste along with collected trimmings and fasteners. Hence, a total of 18 upcyled articles were developed which included six upcycled articles developed by using only post apparel waste, six by combination of pre and post apparel waste and remaining six upcycled articles were developed by post apparel waste with new textile material. The cost of all the upcycled home furnishing and accessories was maximum ranging from ` 145-648 followed by the cost of upcycled apparel and accessories i.e. ` 157-328. The cost of upcycled utility articles was minimum ranging from ` 69-271. All the developed upcycled articles were assessed highly acceptable by the consumers in terms of workmanship and utility. In terms of overall appearance, female shirt, curtain and wall pocket got Ist rank as apparel, home furnishing and utility article respectively. The cost of upcycled articles was considered „appropriate‟ by majority of consumers. Consumers had high opinion about all the upcycled articles and expert had high opinion regarding upcycling of pre and post apparel waste. After training the trainees acquired sufficient knowledge regarding various aspects of upcycling which was recorded statistically significance at 1 percent level of significance. Thus, pre and post apparel waste was upcycled efficiently in different combinations to produce a wide range of textile products by using various upcycling techniques as per apparel waste and upcycled articles.
