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Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar
Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University popularly known as HAU, is one of Asia's biggest agricultural universities, located at Hisar in the Indian state of Haryana. It is named after India's seventh Prime Minister, Chaudhary Charan Singh. It is a leader in agricultural research in India and contributed significantly to Green Revolution and White Revolution in India in the 1960s and 70s. It has a very large campus and has several research centres throughout the state. It won the Indian Council of Agricultural Research's Award for the Best Institute in 1997. HAU was initially a campus of Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. After the formation of Haryana in 1966, it became an autonomous institution on February 2, 1970 through a Presidential Ordinance, later ratified as Haryana and Punjab Agricultural Universities Act, 1970, passed by the Lok Sabha on March 29, 1970. A. L. Fletcher, the first Vice-Chancellor of the university, was instrumental in its initial growth.
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ThesisItem Open Access Development of Home Furnishing Textile Articles using Digital Embroidery(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2019-12) Sarita Devi; Arya, NishaIndia has a rich heritage of traditional textiles. The Indian traditional embroidery plays an important role in creating new designs in the fashion world. The present study has been conducted to develop digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles using Indian traditional embroidery motifs. The Indian traditional embroideries which can be easily transformed into digital form were explored from secondary sources and five top ranked Indian traditional embroideries i.e. Kashidakari, Phulkari, Kasuti, Applique work and Kutch & Kathiawar were selected for further work. Top preferred three home furnishing textile articles, double bed sheet with pillow covers, roman blind and cushion cover were selected for product development. Top ten preferred motifs, were selected for development of designs as per preferences of experts. One hundred fifty designs (30 for each selected embroidery) were created, using selected motifs with the help of Corel DRAW X3 software. Top ranked three designs from each selected embroidery, design number 1, 8 and 19 from Kashidakari embroidery; design number 1, 4 and 19 from Phulkari embroidery; design number 4, 11 and 26 from Kasuti embroidery; design number 9, 16 and 24 from Appliqué work and design number 9, 16 and 24 from kutchand kathiawar embroidery were selected on the basis of experts’ preferences for preparation of design placements. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabric and base color of fabric for product development. On the basis of experts’ preference, top preferred placements and colour ways were selected for product development. A total of forty five home furnishing textile articles i.e. bed sheet with two pillow covers (3 numbers), roman blind (one number) and set of cushion cover (5 numbers) were developed in five selected embroideries employing selected designs, preferred design placement and color ways on selected golden tint fabric using digital embroidery. The cost of developed double bed sheet with pillow covers ranged from Rs. 4750 to 5000, roman blinds ranged from Rs. 4700 to 4800 and cushion cover (set of five) ranged from Rs. 4200 to 4500. Majority of the consumers rated cost as appropriate for developed double bed sheet with pillow covers and cushion covers whereas rated cost as high for roman blind. All the developed digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles were highly acceptable by consumers. Thus, adoption of developed designs from Indian traditional embroidery motifs on home furnishing textile articles using digital embroidery technique is beneficial in preservation of traditional heritage of Indian embroidery and also facilitate faster production in lesser time.ThesisItem Open Access Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn(CCSHAU, 2018) Sharma, Bharti; Yadav, NirmalaThe present study entitled „Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn‟ was conducted. Information on existing status and usage pattern of ten selected shoddy industries located in Panipat, Haryana producing cotton blended shoddy yarn and products were collected using self structured interview schedule and supplemented through observations. Maximum no. of the owners were in the age group of above 50 years, graduate, married and had above 30 years of work experience. The selected shoddy industries were established from 1970 onwards and were registered. Majority of the industries were started with amount Rs. 30 to 50 lac as capital investment. Manpower employed were managers, supervisors and other skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled workers. Male were employed on managerial & supervisor post. There were more skilled male workers whereas more number of female workers were under the categories of unskilled workers. All of the owners faced the managerial problems like price inflation of raw materials, lack of govt. support and technical problem like electricity. The raw material was procured from the local market, other state of India & other countries in the form of rags. Quality of rags was considered while purchasing raw material as per the requirement of product preparation. Selected industries prepared the cotton blended shoddy yarn in different blends proportions i.e. cotton with acrylic, polyester, nylon and cotton with other fibre in 2.5s, 4s, 6s, 8 & 10s and 2 & 4 ply in available colur. The prepared shoddy yarn and fabric were tested for physical parameters. Numbers of defects were reported i.e. uneven yarn thickness slippage of yarn, use of uneven yarn & mismatch of colour in majority of the industries. The products prepared were rugs, foot mat, khes, stool mat, beach towel in different counts and decorated using frills, got/band. Manufacturing cost and utility of the product considered for calculating the cost in all the industries. The five samples of cotton blended shoddy yarns and their fabric samples of different ply, count and blend proportions procured from the selected shoddy industries to get the preferences for yarn count, ply and blend porportions for product development. The preference was done using preferential choice index by the experts. The selected yarn was cotton with polyester blended (70+30%) in 10s and 2 ply. The fabrics were got prepared in selected colour in one of the selected shoddy industry as per the selected specifications. The prepared fabric was tested for physical parameters. Top five ranked products i.e. curtain, table mat, cushion cover, mudha cover and ladies shirt were selected out of the prepared list of products that can be made using selected yarn. Top three constructional designs for each product were selected out of ten constructional designs for each product developed with the help of CorelDRAW-12 for product development. Top preferred one design for screen printing was selected for each product for placement, out of fifty screen printing developed designs. One best design placement for each selected product designs was selected, out of created forty five placements. Five products in three constructional designs were developed, enriched with selected screen printing designs and selected design placement enhanced by doing running stitch using hand embroidery threads in contrast colour selected colour of screen printing design and base colour of fabric. Hence, total fifteen products were developed. All the developed products were adjudged by the consumers very suitable in terms of texture, design, utility and appearance. On the basis of overall acceptance cushion cover, mudha cover and table mat were highly acceptable. Curtain was acceptable and the ladies shirt was least acceptable by the consumers. A design catalogue was prepared.ThesisItem Open Access Diversified use of recycled woollen blended yarn’ submitted for the degree of doctor of philosophy, in the subject of ‘textile and apparel designing(CCSHAU, 2018) Saini, Neelam; Yadav, SarojIt is the fact that textile wastes are unavoidable bi-products of any manufacturing process and many textile processes produce it in high volume. Recycling is a key concept of modern waste management which includes pre- processing of waste material into new product in a manner that on the one hand some burden of solid waste on our ecosystem is lessened and on the other sustainability is achieved. To achieve the specific objectives of study, twenty shoddy units of Panipat, Haryana were selected to study the existing status of shoddy industry. Usage practices of recycled blended yarns with respect to manufacturing techniques, production process, procurement and consumption pattern, development of products were recorded. One recycled blended yarns of two different yarn counts was selected as per preferences of experts. An exhaustive list of products including apparel, home textile and utility articles was prepared and top ranked two products were selected. Graphical representations of basic weaves with their derivatives and fancy weaves were created using CorelDRAW-12 software and on the basis of experts preferences top ranked three weaves were selected for creation of possible weave combinations designs. Ten designs of each weave combination were created and out of thirty designs top preferred six designs, two of each weave combination designs were selected for fabric weaving. Twelve fabrics of recycled blended yarns and two of fresh yarns (control) were got woven. The selected recycled yarns and woven fabrics were tested for their physical properties. Twenty four shoddy products and four products of fabric woven using fresh yarns (control) were developed. The developed products were got assessed from consumers on different parameters. Results revealed that all the selected units were ISO 9000 and 14000 certified and had annual turnover of more than ` 25 lacs. Most of the units were on partnership pattern, established with the help of external financial support and running in their own premises. Shoddy yarn manufacturing units procured rags from local (15-30%), domestic (5-15%) and international (50-80%) markets to prepare recycled blended yarn of wool (40-70%), polyester, acrylic (5-40% each) and cotton (5-10%). All the ten shoddy product manufacturing units were preparing blankets, carpets, rugs. Manufactured shoddy yarns and products were mainly marketed in local, domestic and international markets though wholesalers (50-80%), market agents (10-50%) and retailers (10-30%). Recycled blended yarn composed of wool, acrylic and polyester fibres was most preferred (WMS 2.70). The selected blended yarn of 10s (WMS 2.76) and 8s (WMS 2.66) were used for fabric weaving. On the basis of experts‟ preferences gents‟ jacket (WMS 2.60) and ladies‟ kurti (WMS 2.50) were two top preferred products. Thirty weave combination designs were created using right hand twill (WMS 2.80), left hand twill (WMS 2.75) and zig zag twill (WMS 2.69) weave. The selected designs were design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 9 (WMS 2.66) of left hand twill and right hand twill weave combination and design number 3 (WMS 2.86) and 6 (WMS 2.90) of right hand twill and zig zag twill weave combination and design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 5 (WMS 2.83) of zig zag twill and left hand twill weave combination. The physical properties of shoddy fabrics were almost similar to the control fabrics as indicated by CD, F-value, CV and SE. Most preferred constructional designs were design number 7 (WMS 2.53) for gents‟ jacket and design number 10 (WMS 2.57) for ladies‟ kurti. All the developed twenty four shoddy products i.e. 12 gents‟ jacket and 12 ladies‟ kurti were found highly acceptable for all the assessment parameters as indicated by their WMS values above 2.33. The cost of developed gents‟ jacket ranged from `600 to 650 and ` 1117 to 1200 for ladies‟ kurti, which was rated as appropriate by most of the consumers. The products developed from recycled blended yarn were found highly acceptable by the consumers.
