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Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar
Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University popularly known as HAU, is one of Asia's biggest agricultural universities, located at Hisar in the Indian state of Haryana. It is named after India's seventh Prime Minister, Chaudhary Charan Singh. It is a leader in agricultural research in India and contributed significantly to Green Revolution and White Revolution in India in the 1960s and 70s. It has a very large campus and has several research centres throughout the state. It won the Indian Council of Agricultural Research's Award for the Best Institute in 1997. HAU was initially a campus of Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. After the formation of Haryana in 1966, it became an autonomous institution on February 2, 1970 through a Presidential Ordinance, later ratified as Haryana and Punjab Agricultural Universities Act, 1970, passed by the Lok Sabha on March 29, 1970. A. L. Fletcher, the first Vice-Chancellor of the university, was instrumental in its initial growth.
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ThesisItem Open Access Study On Mechanical And Dimensional Properties Of Weft Knitted Blended Fabric(Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University; Hisar, 2005) Sangwan, Nisha; Khambra, KrishnaThesisItem Open Access Educational package on dyeing using plant sources(CCSHAU, 2005) Reena; Saroj S. Jeet SinghThe present study involves the preparation of educational package on dyeing using plant sources. The dyes which were used for preparation of package were extracted from bark of kikar, kasood and kashmal, leaves of poplar, banyan and neem and flowers of reinwarditia, jatropha and pili kaner. The information regarding these nine dyes was collected and moulded in form of identified communication tools i.e. pamphlets, booklets, charts, slides and video film. The language of the educational package was kept Hindi to facilitate learning by the audience. Individual pamphlets were prepared for each dye, total nine pamphlets were prepared in which whole procedure of dyeing (i.e.from dye extraction to final mordanting) was described in easy language. Two booklets were prepared by compiling all the text used for pamphlets. Charts were prepared, describing the whole procedure of dyeing in pictorial form. Slides were made with the help of camera. Script was written for the slides. The contents of the script were brief introduction about the natural vegetable dyes and whole procedure of dyeing from dye extraction to final mordanting. Video film was prepared in various steps like script writing, filming and editing. Script was written according to the procedure used for dyeing with natural vegetable dyes. Filming was done outdoor and indoor according to the script. Finally editing was done and commentary and light music was dubbed. Hence educational package was prepared. The educational package was administered to thirty experts. It was evaluated with the help of well structured evaluation performs on the basis of most appropriate, somewhat appropriate and not appropriate scores as 3, 2 and 1 respectively. The results revealed that all the communication tools (pamphlets, booklets, charts, slides and video film) were evaluated to be most appropriate in all the sub sections of each communication tool. Levels of effectiveness were also assessed as low, medium and high. The parameters used for assessment of pamphlets and booklets were title and body text. Charts and slides were evaluated on visual assessment and compatibility whereas video film was evaluated for audio assessment, visual assessment and compatibility. The results revealed that pamphlets were adjudged to be highly effective by 93.33% of the respondents on all the parameters. Booklets were perceived to be highly effective by 96.67% of the respondents on all the parameters of measurements of levels of effectiveness. As far as charts and slides were concerned, these were appreciated by 76.70% and 73.33% of the respondents respectively as highly effective. Video film was assessed as highly effective by the 86.67% of the respondents. So it was concluded from the study that message was well treated and can be used for dissemination of information regarding the natural vegetable dyes among the rural beneficiaries. The package can also be used by the researchers, non-governmental organizations which are working in rural areas and by other educated groups.ThesisItem Open Access Standardization of paper patterns of kurta-pyjama for pre-adolescent boys(CCSHAU, 2006) Bala, Saroj; Khambra, KrishnaThe Present study was conducted for Standardization of Paper Patterns of Kurta-Pyjama for Pre-adolescent Boys. During pre-adoloscence phase, the body contour begins to take shape. So clothes of this age group need special care while stitching. Patterns of kurta-pyjama for six chests and six hip girths were made by using standardized anthropometric body measurement (available in the deptt.). 12 foundation paper patterns were prepared by standard drafting technique of size 28” to 33” for kurta and 31” to 36” for pyjama. The foundation paper patterns so prepared were used for cutting and stitching of twelve kurta-pyjamas. Each kurta-pyjama was tried on 10 adolescent respondents having corresponding chest and hip girth. Hence a total of 60 respondents were selected for trial of stitched kurta-pyjama. During trials for reliability assessment of kurta-pyjama it was found that minor changes were observed for all the sizes of kurta-pyjama. On the basis of trials and modified paper patterns, modified kurta-pyjama were again stitched and retried on three respondents of each size (chest and hip). Hence 12 foundation paper patterns were standardized. To Study the opinion of the women regarding paper patterns and drafting techniques, four trainings each of one week duration in cutting and stitching of adoloscent kurta-pyjama were conducted. Two trainings were conducted in Hisar city and two in villages namely Ludas and Kaimari villages of the Hisar district. The women who had knowledge of garment construction were selected for each training. In each group, there were minimum 15 women and in total 60 trainees attended the trainings. Personal profile of the trainees highlighted that maximum (51.6%) trainees were from the age group of 15-25 years and most of them (40.0%) had received education upto middle, majority of the trainees (71.66%) belonged to medium family size and 51.66% of trainees had monthly income in range of Rs. 3001 – 6000/-. The data regarding achievement motivation highlighted that trainees attended the training with major objective ‘self stitching is the best way to utilize old fabric/left over fabric’ (3.0). The data regarding of the trainees (63.3%) had low opinion level for drafting technique whereas majority of the respondents (76.6%) had high opinion level for paper patterns. The trainees also had high opinion about the training as ‘The training has helped trainees to learn easy method of cutting by using paper pattern’ (3.00). The data regarding symbolic adoption for paper patterns was high because of the facts that trainees have no social inhibition for acceptance of paper patterns in the village’ (2.88). From the results it can be concluded that the adoption of paper pattern for kurta-pyjama cutting would be helpful for the women who has low educational level in cutting and stitching of garments.ThesisItem Open Access Functional clothing for farm workers(CCSHAU, 2005) Makkar, Priya; Saroj S. Jeet SinghMillions of people in our country are dependent on Agriculture for their survival. During various operations of crop cultivation, they usually come across a number of problems that otherwise could be reduced by wearing proper clothes according to the field activities. Here an effort has been made to design and construct functional clothing for the farm workers to solve their problems up to some extent. To achieve the principle objectives of the study, it was conducted in 2 phases. During exploratory phase, base line data was prepared through field study. For this phase, 100 respondents were interviewed to gather information about the problems related to clothing faced by them while performing various farm activities. In second phase, functional clothes were designed and constructed for both male and female farm workers. Depending on the existing dress pattern during field activity & clothing related problems faced by them, one to five designs were sketched for each garments by incorporating required functional features. The sketched designs were evaluated by the judges and one to two designs were selected for construction. For assessment of garments, ten respondents (five males and five females) were selected for trial of garments. The findings highlighted that clothing related problems encountered by male and female farm workers were cut/scratch/itching on uncovered area of body, soiling of clothes, hindrance in activity due to clothes, sticking of dust/particles in hair, inhalation of allergens/particles, problem in breathing with saffa or duppata on nose, pulling off saffa/dupatta, falling of dust and particles in eyes leading to itching or irritation. Cut /scratch or itching on uncovered area of body could be prevented by properly covering the exposed parts of the body by using long gloves, high neck, face-cum-head cover, proper footwear. Using cuff or elastic at wrist and pauncha could prevent soiling and hindrance. Face cover of mulmul at nose level and net at eye level fastened with velcro attached to head cover prevented other problems. To prevent the dermal exposure of skin to pesticide/insecticide during spray two techniques were used for male farm workers. In one case the selected design was layered with paper pasting and cotton lining where as in second case it was starched using rice starch. A cover for spray tank, pair of rubber gloves and rubber boots were provided in addition to functional clothing during pesticide/insecticide application. Assessment of pesticide residue analysis by GLC indicated that layered garment retained negligible amount of pesticide thus decreasing risk of dermal exposure to a great extent. Similarly, cover for spray tank, rubber gloves and rubber boots were assessed highly useful for reducing pesticide exposure.ThesisItem Open Access Development of stencil printing designs for entrepreneurship(CCSHAU, 2005) Sharma, Mugdha; Rose, Neelam M.The present study was conducted to develop stencil printing designs for entrepreneurship. To attain the specific objectives 30 home scientists, 30 home science students, were selected purposively and 30 rural women from Kaimari village were taken randomly. To collect the data preferential choice index and a self structured knowledge inventory was prepared. Results highlighted that five most preferred designs for each of the category of top, lady’s shirt and saree were (1, 3, 5, 7, 8), (3, 4, 7, 9, 6) and (10, 3, 5, 4, 9), respectively. Main reason for the preference of design was suitability. Selected designs with their placements which were preferred most by the respondents were design number 7 placed diagonally from shoulder and design number 8 on placement center front and back. Design number 3 and 7 for lady’s shirt, with placement diagonal from corner with sleeve and for saree design number 3 and 10 having placement border with scattered motif and border, respectively. One best background colour and texture was recorded for each apparel and selected designs with their placement were printed. Thus, six products were developed. Training in the stencil printing techniques was imparted to rural women. Majority of the respondents were from the age group 15-20 years, illiterate, married, housewives, belonged to nuclear family and families with monthly income Rs. 1000-5000. Training was found to be very effective as there was significant gain in knowledge. One-third of the respondents were willing to start their entrepreneurial unit after acquiring knowledge in stencil printing. Results indicated that age, education, and monthly income was negatively and non-significantly related with knowledge acquisition regarding stencil printing technique.ThesisItem Open Access Promotion of apparel designing for entrepreneurship(CCSHAU, 2005) Beniwal, Sangeeta; Rose, Neelam M.The present study was conducted to develop shirt designs (top) to be used with trouser for different figure types- tall and slender, tall and stout, short and slender and short and stout. Eighty sketched shirt designs were evaluated by the respondents who have the knowledge of designing according to figure type. Pink color was selected, brightest for tall and slender, dull and cool for tall and stout, light-bright for short and slender and for short and stout dullest colour. Medium weight fabric was selected for all figure types. Preferred designs were developed in Coral Draw 10 with application of colour. Out of these, one most preferred design was selected by judges. Model values were calculated of different body measurements for each figure type and one most preferred design for each figure type was constructed by taking these values. Total of four shirts were constructed and suitability assessment was done. Training was imparted to rural women on designing according to figure types. Regarding preferences of sketched shirt designs, the result elucidated that 5 most preferred designs for tall and slender were number 6, 1, 9, 7 and 2, for tall and stout design number 2, 12, 8, 18 and 7, design number 3, 5, 7, 17 and 18 for short and slender and design number 4, 10, 8, 2 and 13 for short and stout. Result on preferences for preferred designs after application of color, revealed that design number 6 for tall and slender, design number 2 for tall and stout, design number 7 for short and slender and design number 10 for short and stout were considered most preferred designs for construction of shirts. Suitability assessment of shirts for different figure types elucidated that the features used in designs were effective in producing the desired effect of proportionate figure and camouflage the figure irregularities. There was significant gain in knowledge of women after training regarding different aspects of designing. The results revealed that majority of respondents were willing to adopt this technique for self-employment. Correlation between dependent and independent variable elucidated that age, income and education was non- significantly correlated with gain in knowledge.ThesisItem Open Access Standardization of paper patterns for blouse(CCSHAU, 2006) Parkasho Devi; Pruthi, NeelamThe Present study involved the standardization & development of paper patterns for blouses. Twelve foundation paper patterns for blouses were developed & blouses were constructed for 32”, 34”, 36” and 38” bust sizes with three waist girths of each size. Each blouse was tried on 10 respondents having corresponding measurements i.e. 30 respondents of each bust size & 120 respondents in total. During trials for reliability assessment, very minor changes were observed which were incorporated in the foundation paper patterns and 12 paper patterns were standardized. To study the opinion of women regarding paper patterns & drafting technique, four trainings were conducted, two each in Hisar and Rewari Districts and out of them, one was in rural area and one in urban area. The women having skill in garment constructions were selected to impart trainings. These were attended by 55 respondents. Data pertaining to personal profile of the trainees highlighted that maximum of them were from age group of 15-25 years and majority of them had education above matric but below graduation and belonged to medium family size. About 50% of them were having family income in the range of Rs. 3000-5000/-. The major motivating factor found to attend the training was to learn something new (2.85). Majority of trainees opined that ‘one has to depend on others for cutting of blouse if its drafting is not known’. Low opinion of the trainees for drafting technique was found due to one of reasons that illiterate ladies with low educational level, can’t do calculation for drafting’ (1.34). The respondents had high opinion about paper patterns as they found that the paper patterns will increase the speed of garment construction (2.96) and ‘with the help of paper pattern, one can do cutting independently’ (2.92). The training was also found to be useful by the trainees as ‘it helped them to learn easy method of cutting by using paper patterns (2.85). Symbolic adoption of paper patterns was also high as the respondents were of the view that ‘use of paper pattern can improve the economic condition of women without much effort’ (2.90). Majority of the respondents (70.9%) had poor opinion about the drafting but more than 80% had high opinion about the paper patterns and 63.63% respondents had high opinion about the training. On the basis of opinion of women and the observations made during the trainings, the standardized paper patterns were prepared without seam allowances.ThesisItem Open Access Scouring of woollen fabric using enzymes(CCSHAU, 2006) Kholiya, Ruchi; Khambra, KrishnaWool is one of our most versatile fibre. It is such a complex blend of properties that modern science still cannot duplicate it or create a synthetic clone. Scouring through enzymes is a new concept in scouring of natural fibres with an enzyme-based formulation for efficient removal of natural impurities from wool without any fatal damage to the fibre. But recipe optimization, type and suitability of enzymes for different substrates still remain as potential domain for research. So the present study was undertaken under the objectives: to optimize the conditions for enzyme treatment of woollen fabric and to study the physical properties of the treated fabric. Two enzymes namely cellulase (palkosoft super 720) and protease (palkowool LPL) were used for enzyme treatment on pure grey woollen fabric, with different concentrations, time periods, pH and temperatures. Some of the basic fabric properties i.e. weight per unit area, tensile strength, and change in colour were measured for optimization of process conditions for enzymatic scouring. It was observed that with the increase in concentration and duration of enzyme treatment there was increase in weight per unit area loss and tensile strength loss. In case of pH and temperature there was less loss at higher pH and temperature. The optimum conditions for cellulase enzyme treatment were selected as 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes time at pH 7 and temperature 60oC whereas the optimum conditions selected for protease enzyme treatment were 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes at pH 8 and temperature 70oC. The selection of conditions was carried out by the objective assessment of colour change, weight per unit area loss and tensile strength loss. Further physical properties of the optimized samples were measured by following standard procedure. The enzymatic scouring with cellulase and protease enzymes results in significant increase in fabric count, crease recovery angle, pilling resistance, abrasion resistance and colour change whereas non significant increase were found in bulk property after enzymatic treatment. Significant decreases were observed in weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp direction elongation of protease enzyme treated woollen fabric. After enzymatic treatment with both enzymes there were significant decrease in weft direction elongation, bending length, flexural rigidity, shrinkage and porosity. Non-significant decreases were observed in case of weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp wise elongation when woollen fabric was treated with cellulase enzymes. There was a non-significant decrease in thickness and drape coefficient after enzymatic scouring with both enzymes. So it is recommended that use of enzymes for the purpose of woollen scouring is more beneficial and eco friendly than conventional scouring of woollen fabric.ThesisItem Open Access Standardization of paper patterns of kameez-salwar for pre-adolescent girls(CCSHAU, 2006) Gulati, Nidhi; Pruthi, NeelamThe present study was conducted to standardize the paper patterns of kameez-salwar for pre-adolescent girls. Standardization of paper pattern involved preparation of foundation paper patterns, construction of garments using foundation paper patterns, reliability assessment of stitched garments and development of standardized paper patterns. Foundation paper pattern were made using drafting technique on the basis of standardize anthropometrical measurements. Nine foundation paper patterns for kameez were developed and kameez were constructed for 28”, 29” and 30” bust girth with three waist girth of each size. Three foundation paper patterns of salwar were developed and salwar were constructed for 32”, 33” and 34” hip girth. Each kameez was tried on 10 respondents having corresponding waist girth and each salwar was also tried having corresponding hip girth. Hence the garments were tried on total 90 respondents. During trials for reliability assessment, very negligible changes were observed which were incorporated in the foundation paper patterns and total of 12 paper patterns were standardized, nine for kameez and three for salwar. To study the opinion of trainees regarding paper patterns and drafting techinque, four trainings were conducted, two in Hisar city and two in villages i.e. Ludas and Kaimeri. The women/girls having skill in garment constructions were selected to impart trainings. These were attended by 60 respondents. Data pertaining to personal profile of the trainees highlighted that maximum of them were from age group of 15-25 years and majority of them had education upto middle level and belonged to medium sized family. About 51.66 percent of them were having family income in the range of Rs. 3001-6000 /-. The major motivating factor for attending the training found was ‘self-stitching is the best way to utilize old fabric/ left over fabric’ (3). Majority of trainees opined that ‘illiterate ladies with low educational level can’t do calculations for drafting’ (2.90). The respondents had high opinion about paper patterns as they found that ‘the use of paper patterns have given chance to stitch kameez-salwar at home independently’ (2.95) and ‘trainees can adopt garment construction as an income generating activity if paper pattern of different sizes are easily available’ (2.91). The training was also found to be useful by trainees as ‘it helped them to learn easy method of cutting by using paper patterns’ (3). Symbolic adoption of paper patterns was also high as the trainees were of the view that ‘trainees have no social inhibition for acceptance of paper pattern in the village’ (2.88). Majority of the trainees (76.66%) had high opinion about the paper patterns but (63.3%) had poor opinion about the drafting technique and 79.33% had high opinion about the training. On the basis of opinion of trainees and the previous studies, the standardized paper patterns were prepared without seam allowance.