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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × Author: Sati, Hema × End date: 2004 × Start date: 2004 × Thesis Type: M.Sc ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Extraction of natural dyes from chilmora flowers (Rumex hastatus) and kamala leaves (Mallotus Philippensis): process development for dyeing of silk and quantitative estimation of crude dye extract
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2004-07) Sati, Hema; Shahnaz Jahan
    Dyes are colourant that penetrate the actual fibre and appear to become a part of it. They are broadly classified as natural and synthetic dyes. In recent years, the thrust has been shifted to the research and development of natural dyes, as these are more ecofirendly in comparison to carcinogenic and non-ecofriendly synthetic dyes. Natural dyes are also known for their long endurance and soft lustrous colours. The international market for natural dyed textile products is very large and export of natural dyed products can earn extra revenue for the country. The present study was done on the process development for dyeing of silk with flowers of Chilmora (Rumex hastatus) and leaves of Kamala (Mallotus philippensis) and quantitative estimation of crude dried dye extract. These sources were found to produce different shades of Pink, Yellowish green, Green, Brown and Khaki. A series of experiments were conducted to optimize different dyeing variables viz. concentration of dye, extraction time, dyeing time, mordant concentration and method of mordanting. The medium of extraction was selected as acidic for Chilmora flower dye and alkaline for Kamala leaf dye. In case of Chilmora flower dye, 5% dye concentration, 75 minutes extraction time and 45 minutes dyeing time was found as optimum, whereas, 4% dye concentration, 60 minutes extraction time and 60 minutes dyeing time was found to be optimum in case of Kamala leaf dye. In case of Chilmora flower dye, .04% of Chrome and Stannous chloride and 4% of Pomegranate rind with post mordanting 4% of Tea leaves, 5% of Amaltas bark and .03% of Copper sulphate with simultaneous mordanting and dyeing gave best shades on silk. In case of Kamala leaf dye, it was observed that 1% Walnut bark with post mordanting, 4% Bahera, .03% of Copper sulphate and .05% of Stannous chloride with simultaneous mordanting and dyeing, 4% Pomegranate rind and .02% of Chrome with premordanting produced best shades on silk. It was also concluded that the colour fastness to light, washing, perspiration and crocking of both the dyes was improved with the use of mordants. However, the darkening of colour during light and wash fastness test and a change in colour during alkaline perspiration test was observed in case of Chilmora flower dye. Tensile strength of blank samples of both the dyes was found to be significantly different from both undyed silk and their respective mordanted samples. Percent elongation at break of undyed fabric was found to have no significant difference with blank samples of both the dyes where as it differs significantly with mordanted samples in case of both the dyes. On quantitative estimation, the yield of crude dye powder from Kamala leaf was found to be double in amount of the yield of Chilmora flower dye powder. The powder produced lighter shade of same hue in case of Kamala leaf and a different shade on silk in case of Chilmora flower dye was found. The colour fastness to light and wash of the dye powder