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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × Author: Kohli, Tanuja × Start date: 2020 × Type: Thesis × Thesis Type: M.Sc ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Present status of zari work units in Bareilly (Uttar Pradesh)
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2020-08) Kohli, Tanuja; Anita Rani
    India is known for the finest textile traditions in the world with respect to dyeing, weaving and surface embellishment. Hand embroidery is one form among textile handicrafts of India. Zardozi is a famous and exquisite embroidery of Uttar Pradesh. In this craft, a uniform wire, traditionally made of fine gold or silver, was used to embroider traditional garments. Bareilly city of Uttar Pradesh has been known for its exquisite zardozi work. Different departments of Central & and State Government support zari work units located in Bareilly. Besides the support given by Indian government through schemes, zari embroidery units of Bareilly are still facing different problems and constraints within the cluster. Hence, present study was conducted to explore the present profile of zari units located in Bareilly; to study the Govt. schemes implemented on zari units and to identify the problems faced by the zari units. A self-structured interview schedule was formulated as tool in data collection from 30 registered as well as 30 non-registered zari units operational in Bareilly selected through cluster and snow ball technique sampling. The data was collected from primary (the owner and worker from each selected unit) and secondary sources (published reports of government). The results revealed significant difference between characteristics of registered and nonregistered units namely infrastructure, number of workers, their training, production level and awareness about different government schemes. But two types of units were found similar in terms of ownership of business and nature of property, gender and skill of workers, mode of payment and range of wages of workers, duration of work per day, type of raw material used for work, method of division of work, types of designs used in zari work, method of application of zari, steps used in finishing of products, infrastructure problems faced by units and manufacturing problems. The market area and product range were large of registered units, whereas due to low awareness and absence from government record, the production of non-registered units had limited market area and less product range. Also, despite of being listed under government organizations, very few benefits were being availed by registered zari units. Both registered and non-registered zari units faced threats and challenges like non labelling of product, lack of quality control, paucity of innovation in designs and production techniques, absence of market information, workers wages were low as profit share is kept by agents, lack of access to credit and competition from machine made products. This implies that both types of units needed assistance in the field for up-gradation of zari craft of Bareilly. As the art of zari has been known from Vedic times and associated with the rich and glorious history of India therefore it is important to restrain this craft from extinction. The issues and challenges faced by the units need effective implementation of appropriate policy measures. Further associating developmental activities with existing schemes, organization of awareness drive and trainings for zari units will be helpful in drawing them into mainstream of handicraft sector.