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2016 - 201922020 - 20211
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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × Author: Bhatt, Pooja × End date: 2024 × Type: Thesis ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Delignification of Dhaincha (Sesbania aculeata) fibres for value addition with blending and development of union fabric
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-02) Bhatt, Pooja; Anita Rani
    The natural fibres have dominated and coexisted with synthetic fibres in textile industry for long period of time. The alarming environmental concerns with increased used of synthetic fibres shifted research interest towards resources of natural and lignocellulosic fibres. The bast fibres have provided an opportunity to lead towards high quality textile market with economic and environmental benefits. Sesbania aculeata locally known as dhaincha has abundant possibilities in textile sector. It is only used for green manuring in Tarai region of Uttarakhand to enrich soil. The coarse nature and high lignin content limits use of dhaincha fibres in textile sector. Therefore, present study was planned to delignify dhaincha fibres to increase softness; spin yarns through blending with cotton and bamboo fibres and to prepare union fabrics from blended yarns. The dhaincha fibres were extracted using stagnant water retting method for 15 days. The variables for delignification i.e., acetic acid concentration, sodium chlorite concentration, sodium hydroxide concentration and sodium hydroxide treatment time were optimized using Box Behnken Design of RSM. The effect of independent variables on dhaincha fibres after delignification treatment was observed on lignin content, tenacity, moisture regain and whiteness index of fibres. The dhaincha fibres were delignified in bulk using optimized recipe for delignification treatment. The physical properties of fibres obtained after retting and delignification treatment were assessed to observe effect of delignification on properties of fibres. The delignified dhaincha fibres were blended with cotton and bamboo fibres in two ratios, 30:70 and 40:60 to develop blended yarns on computerized Trytex Rotor Spinning Machine. The union fabrics were prepared from the blended yarns in weft and cotton and bamboo yarns as warp respectively on handloom using plain weave. The developed yarn and fabric samples were tested for various physical and functional properties. The findings of study revealed that delignification treatment enhanced the softness and whiteness index of dhaincha fibres thereby, could increase economic viability and utility of the plant. The SEM images showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and impurities and XRD analysis revealed decrease in crystallinity index of dhaincha fibres and increased amorphous regions in fibres after delignification. FTIR spectroscopy showed removal of lignin, hemicellulose and pectin to some extent after delignification. Rotor spun blended yarns were of low count, strength and yarn twist. Fabric properties were found to be affected by blending of dhaincha with cotton and bamboo fibres in different blend ratios. Blending increased thickness and weight in case of both dhaincha:cotton and dhaincha:bamboo woven union fabric samples. The union fabric samples exhibited good air permeability and wettability after blending of dhaincha fibres with cotton and bamboo. Tensile and tearing strength were found good in weft direction of prepared woven fabric samples due to high fabric count in weft direction. All union fabric samples exhibited low crease recovery and bending length than 100% cotton and 100% bamboo fabric samples. Thus, delignified dhaincha fibres and union fabrics developed from dhaincha, cotton and bamboo would offer diversified textile and might widen scope of use of plant for different value added products.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Survey on use of textile materials in university research farms and product development from used materials
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2017-07) Bhatt, Pooja; Anita Rani
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    A study of traditional costumes of the tribes in Uttarakhand
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2016-01) Bhatt, Pooja; Anita Rani
    Evolution of clothing throughout history of man depicts clearly on multifarious aspects of the socio cultural and technological developments that occurred from time to time. Present study was an attempt to study the tribal costumes of Uttarakhand which was almost non-existent and has reached the verge of extinction in the name of change. The document beholds a study of traditional costumes of five tribes of Uttarakhand namely, Tharu, Buxa, Raji, Bhotia and Jaunsari. It is also an attempt to document culturally rich costumes of Indian tribes which hold significance in the timeline of Indian clothing. These tribal communities present a significant degree of cultural and ethnic diversity to Indian heritage. Many differences and similarities were found in the dressing pattern of the tribes. Differences in regional, socio-economic, geographical and cultural conditions were responsible for the variation in their clothes. The study was not concerned to modern dress but the traditional costumes of the tribes. From the present study we can conclude that Tharu and Buxa had lots of similarities in their costumes in relation to the fabric characteristics as well as in the constructional details of the garments. Similarity was observed in male costumes of both the tribes. This was because Tharu and Buxa both had same socio-cultural specialties which had influence on their costumes too. Bhotiya had five sub groups namely, Rung, Shauka, Tolcha, Marcha and Khampa. It was found that costumes of Shauka tribe and Tolcha-Marcha tribe (collectively called as Rongpa) had similarities in their costumes. Resemblance was found between the costumes of Shakuka and Rongpa Bhotiya females as both have the same ancestors, later on Shauka migrated to the Munsiyari and Tolcha-Marcha to the Niti-Mana valley. Costumes of the Rung and Shauka Bhotiya showed great variability with each other though they live in same district of Pithoragarh. The difference was, due to the fact that Rung tribe was more influenced from Tibetans and their costumes possessed more similarity with the costumes of Tibet. While influence of Kumaun and Garhwal was observed in the costumes of Shuaka tribe. The costumes of Khampa Bhotiya were completely different from other Bhotiya sub groups of the region. Costumes of Khampa resembled with the costumes of Bhotiya of Tibet. This was due the fact that these people were migrated from Tibet and settled in Bidang valley of Pithoragarh district. Difference was found in the costumes of the tribes of tarai and hilly region but jewellery possessed likeness. All the tribals of Uttarakhand wore the jewellery made in silver metal. Among the jewellery items, some were common in all the tribes. Some of them were round hollow necklace, hollow bracelet for wrist and feet. Necklaces made from coins were also used by the all tribal females of the Uttarakhand. Large round nose stud was common in all the tribes accept the females of Jaunsari and Khampa tribe. The flat paper patterns were developed for the selected tribal garment. The constructed garments would benefit in terms of conservation of tribal traditions and culture, educating the students in the discipline of apparel designing. Findings of the study were documented in different media formats like, booklets, folders and movie. Documentation in different media format will cater the economic growth of state as it will promote the tourism