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ThesisItem Embargo Development of utility articles through simulation of gold and silver hand embroidery(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Singla, Rochana; Grewal, SumeetThe investigation entitled “Development of utility articles through simulation of gold and silver hand embroidery” was carried out in Ludhiana city. For simulation ten motifs of gold and silver hand embroidery were selected from documented twenty five motifs and five utility articles were selected for development based upon the preferences of a panel of judges. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data regarding awareness and preferences for developing utility articles using gold and silver machine embroidery from 96 female respondents between the age group of 20-60 years selected randomly from four localities of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were post-graduation, home makers and belonged to the nuclear families and had an income range between Rs 50,001–1,00,000. Majority of the respondents were aware of gold and silver hand embroidery and possessed articles made from them. Based upon the preferences of the respondents for developing the utility articles, four designs of each utility article were created in COREL DRAW X7 and one best design in each category was selected by a panel of judges for product development. To study the cost effectiveness, the cost price was computed and the selling price were calculated by adding thirty percent profit. A sub-sample of thirty two respondents were randomly selected to study the consumer acceptance and cost effectiveness of the developed articles. The results showed that majority of the respondents liked the utility articles for their suitability, design, color combination, embellishments and overall impact and gave ranks to the articles accordingly. The table mat was ranked first, followed by wall hanging at second rank and third rank was given to cushion cover on the basis of the overall impact. Majority of the respondents found the quoted price appropriate for cushion cover, hand bag and mobile holder whereas the price of wall hanging and table mat were considered high. The average selling price calculated after considering the price quoted by the respondents showed that the profit margin has to be decreased by 4-12 percent in some cases. But when these articles will be produced at commercial level, the cost of production will reduce and the profit margins will increase. So, the articles were considered to be commercially viable and acceptable to the consumers.ThesisItem Open Access Preferences and availability of eco-apparel products in Ludhiana city(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Warring, Mandeep Kaur; Kapila, PrernaThe present investigation was planned to study availability of eco-apparels in Ludhiana city and preferences of the consumers for the same. For the selection of retail stores, purposive sampling was done whereas for the selection of consumers, stratified sampling technique was considered appropriate. The information was collected from fifteen brick-and-mortar stores and fifteen online stores which catered to eco-apparels. A total of 150 consumers were selected in the age group of 20 years to 50 years. Two interview schedules were developed for collecting data from retailers and consumers. Major category of eco-apparels available at retail outlets were top wear among women and jackets and coats among men. Availability of eco-options for kids wear were very limited. Fifty seven percent of the retailers believed that eco-apparels were overpriced by almost twenty five percent in comparison to non-ecoapparels. The certification for eco-apparels was done mainly through self-certification method though some third-party certifications were also used. The analysis of data received from consumers revealed that the awareness about eco-apparels was there among more than 50% consumers but almost 76% consumers were not aware about eco-labels. Major raw material used for production of eco-apparels was organic cotton. Various methods were employed by respondents for disposing of used apparels and majority of respondents were of the opinion that strict regulations should be formulated by the government for eco-apparel production. The main reason for purchase of eco-apparels by consumers was for quality purposes and its advantage for the environment. The consumers were of the opinion that eco-apparels are overpriced by more than 30% but they were willing to pay only upto 10% extra for ecoapparels. To improve the acceptance of eco-apparels in the society, cultivation of a positive attitude towards these apparels was considered most important.ThesisItem Open Access Visual merchandising practices of the apparel retail stores in Ludhiana City(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Khushpreet Kaur; Saini, Harminder KaurThe present investigation was planned to study the visual merchandising practices of apparel retail stores in Ludhiana city. The survey regarding visual merchandising practices of apparel retail stores was conducted in four zones of Ludhiana. For the selection of apparel retail stores and customers, random sampling technique was used. Ten apparel retail stores from each zone (total 40) were selected randomly. Then out of these stores, five stores from each zone (total 20) were again taken for the selection of customers. A total of 120 customers were selected (6 customers each from 20 apparel retail stores) to collect the information regarding influence of visual merchandising elements on their buying behaviour. An interview schedule and information recording sheet were used for collecting data. The results indicated that majority of retailers belonged to age group of 20- 30 years and most of them were male visual merchandisers. Majority of the retail stores (72.50%) sell the men‟s clothing. Most of retail stores (82.5 %) had less than 5000 sq. ft area followed by 10 percent of retail stores which had area between 5000 to 10,000 sq. ft. The most significant criteria of visual merchandising was theme presentation, which was ranked first with weighted mean score of 5.9. Majority of the selected retail stores (93%) changed their window display after a week. It was reported that all the apparel retail stores used fixtures such as display racks and mannequins for displaying products followed by 92.50 and 47.50 percent of the stores which used grids and gondola shelves also, respectively. Around 55 percent of retail stores categorized their merchandise according to the size of product followed by 22.50 percent of the retailers, who assort their merchandise on colour basis. Visual merchandising entails strategies for attracting customers into a business in order to boost footfalls, which was ranked first by respondents with weighted mean score of 4.9. Around 37.50 percent of retailers stated that the budget for visual merchandising activities must be decided by the store. Around 35 percent of the retailers were inspired from their past experiences followed by 25 percent of retailers, who were inspired by the particular websites. It was also observed that majority of respondents (65%) face the problem of less time and space followed by the problem of social ethics and political constraints while implementing visual merchandising in the store. An equal percentage of male and female respondents were taken to study their buying behaviour based on visual merchandising. Most of the consumers were always compelled by eye catching window display and creative storefront theme displays. Consumers evaluate the store on the basis of comfortable shopping and easy accessibility of products to them. Further, it was found that most of the consumers always get excited while making impulsive purchase. Arrangement of products in the store according to colour combination always attract the consumers. Consumers eagerly buy the products during promotional offerings. Females were more influenced by store atmospherics, layout and window displays.ThesisItem Open Access Development and application of moth-repellent finishes on proteinaceous fabrics using plant extracts(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Laimayum Jogeeta Devi; Grewal, SumeetThe present study was conducted to develop the moth-repellent finishes for application on proteinaceous fabrics using plant sources as eco-friendly moth repellent agents. Four plants were selected, namely, lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), silver oak (Grevillea robusta), tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) and henna (Lawsonia inermis) on the basis of possessing effective insect repellency. Pure wool and silk fabrics were used for application of developed finishes. Active compounds from plant leaves were extracted using Soxhlet apparatus and conditions for extraction were optimized on the basis of percentage of yield on parameters, namely, types of solvents, extraction pH, solute to solvent ratio, extraction time and extraction temperature. Extraction was done using the optimized conditions of extraction for the respective plants. Phytochemical analysis, both qualitative and quantitative was conducted. Microcapsules were prepared using the optimized extracts as core material, sodium alginate as sheath material and citric acid as cross linker though simple coacervation technique. Parameters for application of microencapsulated finishes on wool and silk fabrics namely, concentrations of microcapsules, concentration of binders, curing temperature and curing time, were optimized on the basis of their effects on tensile strength, flexural rigidity and whiteness index. The microencapsulated extracts were applied on wool and silk fabrics using the optimized conditions using pad-dry-cure method. Surface morphology of the finished wool and silk fabrics were analyzed through Scanning Electron Microscopy. Physical properties of untreated control and finished fabrics were assessed It was found that the developed finishes did not have any adverse effect on the physical properties of the fabrics. Moth repellency of the finished fabrics were tested on the unwashed finished samples of both wool and silk fabrics using ISO 3998-1977(E). Using the same test, efficacy of the finishes were analyzed after washing the fabrics for 5, 10 and 15 wash cycles and after commercially dry cleaning. The test revealed that wool fabric finished with microcapsules of lemongrass extract showed the highest moth repellency with the lowest feeding damage followed by silver oak, tulsi and henna respectively. And silk fabrics finished with microcapsules of henna extract showed the highest moth repellency with the least feeding damage followed by lemongrass, silver oak and tulsi respectively. The finishes were also effective upto 15 washes and dry cleaning except for tulsi. Hence, the finishes prepared from the plant sources namely, lemongrass, silver oak, tulsi and henna can be successfully applied to proteinaceous fabrics to impart effective moth repellent property.ThesisItem Open Access Impact of nonwoven mul ch mat developed from textile waste for vegetable crop(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Arpana; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present investigation was undertaken to study the impact of nonwoven mulch mat developed from textile waste for vegetable crop. The survey regarding mulching practices of farmers was purposively conducted in three agro-climatic zones of Punjab and two highly vegetable cultivated districts were selected from each zone. Fifteen farmers from each district were selected randomly and an interview schedule was used for collecting data. The results indicated that farmers frequently used plastic mulches in various vegetables but very few of them had knowledge about biodegradable mulches. For development of mulch mat samples, blending of waste fibres (cotton: polyester: acrylic) was done in 5 different ratios. All ratios were blended for 400 GSM and 4 mm thickness and the degradation and physical appearance of nonwoven mulch mat samples were taken into account for selection of two suitable mulch samples. Different GSM variations were developed for each selected ratio. Total of six mulches were thus developed and placed in the field at the Vegetable Research Farm, Department of Vegetable Science, PAU during 2019-20 and 2020-21 for final experiment on hybrid variety of chilli CH 27. The physical and mechanical properties and degradation characteristics of developed nonwoven mulch mats, temperature, moisture content (%) of soil, growth and yield characteristics of plant were recorded in both laboratory and field tests. The experimental data revealed that developed mulches successfully enhanced all crop parameters because of better moisture retention in the soil and the resulting weed growth was also very less. It is concluded that the most desirable ratio of cotton, polyester and acrylic waste for developing mulch mat was 70:20:10 with 200GSM and 3 mm thickness as maximum degradation, crop growth and yield has been observed for this ratio. The developed mats were cost effective and also had an advantage of being able to be used twice unlike plastic mulches.ThesisItem Open Access Development of blended and union fabrics from eri and ramie fibre(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Tamta, Meenakshi; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present study was conducted to analyze the properties of yarns and fabrics developed by blending eri and ramie fibres at carding stagein 100:0, 25:75, 50:50, 75:25 and 0:100 ratios. Blended yarn in 50:50 ratio was found optimum due to its excellent physical and mechanical properties. Blended fabric (B1) was constructed from optimumblend ratio whereas union fabrics (U-I and U-II) were constructed by the use of pure eri silk and ramie yarns. Fabric B1 exhibited excellent tensile and tearing strength, significantly improved abrasion resistance, bending length and good flexural rigidity. Union fabrics U-I and U-II had good elongation and air permeability along with nice drape. The construction cost of the blended fabric was found to be less as compared to the union fabrics. Total hand value of developed fabrics according to Kawabata Evaluation System showed that these were suitable for men’s and women’s dress material and suiting. Subjective evaluation by a panel of judges rated U-II fabric as excellent in comparison to U-I and B1. All the developed fabrics were also found suitable for home textiles. Three end products namely men’s jacket, men’s waist coat and a ladies top were constructed from different developed fabrics and these were found to be readily accepted byconsumers pointing towards their good commercial viability.ThesisItem Open Access Retail Marketing Practices of Designer Fashion Studios in Ludhiana City(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Narula, Tanisha; Grewal, SumeetThe present research work was conducted to study the retail marketing practices of designer fashion studios in Ludhiana city. The study was conducted in various fashion studios located in Ludhiana. From thirty five randomly selected fashion studios, 15 were further selected for studying their retail marketing practices through case study method. For this an interview schedule was prepared to collect data from the managers and sales staff of each studio regarding planogram, retail and marketing strategies and customer facilities offered by them. The results of the investigation were interpreted using percentages and mean score. The results revealed that the designer fashion studios were owned by designers out of which, 46% were females and 40% were males and 14% percent were couples and majority of them were graduates. Most of the studios used collaborative method of customisation followed by deep assortment strategy. Also, the products were displayed on the basis of product type. The store layout followed by majority of the studios was herringbone and the interior of the studio included fixtures such as display racks and mannequins whereas the colour scheme followed by most of them was complementary. The lights used were mostly ambient followed by functional props, and outdoor signages. The unique selling point for the studios was quality of the products and well maintained store environment. Also 80 percent of the studios followed visual merchandising and the frequency of changing the display was after every 15 days and was mostly managed by designers themselves. The results also showed that most of them spent less than Rs 5000 per month on marketing. The factors that were considered important for promotion of a product were fluctuating consumer’s preferences, consistent marketing and messaging and online marketing being more effective as well as less expensive. Also, various factors such as dynamic nature of retailing, customer oriented marketing etc. were considered important. The raw material was sourced by majority of them from wholesalers, mostly from local markets. The inventory control was done manually by most of the studios and 20 % of them only faced stock shortage due to variability in demand. Also, the stock was replenished as and when required. Most of them had in-house activities for various processes and few of them outsourced some of the activities. Most of them used Instagram to update their collections and content on daily basis. Very few studios had their own website to update and sell their merchandise online. Only one of them had augmented reality feature installed in the studio. Majority of them provided sales staff training whenever required and it was mostly given by designers themselves. Many customer facilities were also provided by the studios like free parking, trial rooms and rest rooms. The customer feedback was taken on feedback booklet. On the basis of the findings, some improvements have been suggested for the studios to enhance their retailing and marketing skills in order to boost their business and attract more customers.ThesisItem Open Access Status of Ludhiana Knitwear Industry using Elastane Blends(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Simran; Kapila, PrernaThe present study was conducted on a sample of 40 micro, small and medium manufacturing units using elastane yarn as a raw material. Random sampling technique was used to select the industries after obtaining the relevant data from District Industries Center, Ludhiana. The data was collected from owners of the industries using a self-structured interview schedule and the results were analysed using percentages, arithmetic mean and weighted mean score. Majority of units belonged to small scale and were started with an initial investment of approximately Rs. one lakh and worked as a proprietorship firm. Stitching was an operation performed in house by all the industries, closely followed by designing of garments performed in-house by 80 percent of industries and knitting performed in-house by 45 % industries. It was seen that only 45 per cent of the units were product specific manufacturing units and 90 per cent units did low cost mass production. The most commonly produced apparel using elastane was tshirt and 80 per cent of the units were manufacturing under their own brand name. The level of certification among industry was extremely low and profit margins were only 5-10 per cent 70 per cent of the units. The export was done to countries like Dubai, Europe, U.S.A and Canada. High fluctuation in prices of raw material and delayed payment from buyers along with instability of skilled labour and high cost of electricity were some of the most prominent challenges faced by the industry.ThesisItem Open Access Development of digitally printed stoles Inspired from Kalamkari motifs(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2021) Soma Deepika; Saini, Harminder KaurThe research study titled “Development of digitally printed stoles inspired from kalamkari motifs” was carried out in Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. Fifty kalamkari motifs were documented using secondary sources through photographs. Twenty motifs were selected by judges and used for simulation to develop stole designs through CAD. Sixteen designs with two design variations for each were developed in Corel Draw X8 and were shown to the judges. The preferences of the judges regarding developed stole designs shows that design 1(B), 2(A), 3(B), 4(A), 5(A), 6(B), 7(A), 8(B), 9(A), 10(A), 11(B), 12(A), 13(B), 14(B), 15(B) and 16(A) were selected out of each two designs. These selected first ranked 16 designs were then shown to 90 college going girls for their preferences. The majority of the respondents belong to the age group of 24-26 and were postgraduates; from nuclear families with service as main occupation of the family. The majority of the respondents come from families with monthly family income ranging from `1,00,001- `1,50,000. Out of 16 selected designs, design 2(A) got first rank with mean score of 4.18, followed by design 11(B), 6(B), 10(A), 15(B), 12(A), 7(A) and 14(B) with Weighted Mean Score of 3.89, 3.31, 3.14, 3.06, 2.83, 2.47 and 2.38 given second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth rank, respectively. The selected stole designs were printed with digital printing technique on silk fabric. A sub sample of 30 respondents were taken to study the acceptance of printed stoles on the basis of uniqueness of design, colour combination, suitability of combination of motifs, overall appearance and price acceptability. Among the eight printed stoles, design 6(B) got first rank on the basis of uniqueness of the design, colour combination, suitability of combination of motifs and overall appearance of the design. Printed stoles were evaluated on the basis of three categories: very good, good and fair. Design 6(B), 11(B) and 10(A) were considered very good by 86.67, 80 and 73.33 per cent per cent of the respondents, respectively. Maximum percentage of the respondents consider the quoted price of stoles to be adequate.
