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Utilization of sisal fibre (Agave americana) for designing handloom textile products
(Punjab Agricultural University, 2023) Soun, Bhawna; Saini, Harminder Kaur
The present study on “Utilization of sisal fibre (Agave americana) for designing handloom textile products” initially conducted in 12 sisal units four each in Almora, Udham Singh Nagar and Dehradun Districts of Uttarakhand. Among all twelve units, maximum percentage of units i.e., 59 per cent were established during 1986-95, 33 per cent of units were established during 1996-2005 and only 8 per cent of the units were established after 2005. The units were extracting fibres with decortication technique. Survey of units was followed by development of blended yarn and union fabrics. Total three blended yarns were developed by blending sisal and cotton fibres at carding stage in 65:35, 50:50 and 35:65 ratio. Blended yarn in 35:65(12s) and 50:50 (8s) found optimum due to its excellent physical and mechanical properties. Total nine samples of union fabrics were developed using given yarns and weave (plain, basket, and twill). Six samples in power loom and 3 samples were developed in handloom. The construction cost of power loom union fabric was less as compared to handloom fabrics. The developed samples were shown to a panel of ten judges to study their preferences for product development from union fabrics. The majority of respondents perceived the fabrics as being suitable for six end products namely cushion cover, dining table mat, Nehru jacket, shopping bag, straight skirt and table runner. Product survey was done from 60 women in the age group of 25-35 years from three localities of Ludhiana city. Dining table mat was considered as excellent for its utility and design by respondents. For innovativeness, Nehru jacket was liked by 41.60 per cent of the respondents. Regarding the overall appearance of the products dining table mat was liked by 35 per cent. More than 50 per cent of the respondents found the quoted price of the products to be adequate. The handloom textile products from union fabrics were highly appreciated, and were accepted by the consumers.
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Development and application of moth-repellent finishes on proteinaceous fabrics using plant extracts
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Laimayum Jogeeta Devi; Grewal, Sumeet
The present study was conducted to develop the moth-repellent finishes for application on proteinaceous fabrics using plant sources as eco-friendly moth repellent agents. Four plants were selected, namely, lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), silver oak (Grevillea robusta), tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) and henna (Lawsonia inermis) on the basis of possessing effective insect repellency. Pure wool and silk fabrics were used for application of developed finishes. Active compounds from plant leaves were extracted using Soxhlet apparatus and conditions for extraction were optimized on the basis of percentage of yield on parameters, namely, types of solvents, extraction pH, solute to solvent ratio, extraction time and extraction temperature. Extraction was done using the optimized conditions of extraction for the respective plants. Phytochemical analysis, both qualitative and quantitative was conducted. Microcapsules were prepared using the optimized extracts as core material, sodium alginate as sheath material and citric acid as cross linker though simple coacervation technique. Parameters for application of microencapsulated finishes on wool and silk fabrics namely, concentrations of microcapsules, concentration of binders, curing temperature and curing time, were optimized on the basis of their effects on tensile strength, flexural rigidity and whiteness index. The microencapsulated extracts were applied on wool and silk fabrics using the optimized conditions using pad-dry-cure method. Surface morphology of the finished wool and silk fabrics were analyzed through Scanning Electron Microscopy. Physical properties of untreated control and finished fabrics were assessed It was found that the developed finishes did not have any adverse effect on the physical properties of the fabrics. Moth repellency of the finished fabrics were tested on the unwashed finished samples of both wool and silk fabrics using ISO 3998-1977(E). Using the same test, efficacy of the finishes were analyzed after washing the fabrics for 5, 10 and 15 wash cycles and after commercially dry cleaning. The test revealed that wool fabric finished with microcapsules of lemongrass extract showed the highest moth repellency with the lowest feeding damage followed by silver oak, tulsi and henna respectively. And silk fabrics finished with microcapsules of henna extract showed the highest moth repellency with the least feeding damage followed by lemongrass, silver oak and tulsi respectively. The finishes were also effective upto 15 washes and dry cleaning except for tulsi. Hence, the finishes prepared from the plant sources namely, lemongrass, silver oak, tulsi and henna can be successfully applied to proteinaceous fabrics to impart effective moth repellent property.
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Impact of nonwoven mul ch mat developed from textile waste for vegetable crop
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Arpana; Mahajan, Surabhi
The present investigation was undertaken to study the impact of nonwoven mulch mat developed from textile waste for vegetable crop. The survey regarding mulching practices of farmers was purposively conducted in three agro-climatic zones of Punjab and two highly vegetable cultivated districts were selected from each zone. Fifteen farmers from each district were selected randomly and an interview schedule was used for collecting data. The results indicated that farmers frequently used plastic mulches in various vegetables but very few of them had knowledge about biodegradable mulches. For development of mulch mat samples, blending of waste fibres (cotton: polyester: acrylic) was done in 5 different ratios. All ratios were blended for 400 GSM and 4 mm thickness and the degradation and physical appearance of nonwoven mulch mat samples were taken into account for selection of two suitable mulch samples. Different GSM variations were developed for each selected ratio. Total of six mulches were thus developed and placed in the field at the Vegetable Research Farm, Department of Vegetable Science, PAU during 2019-20 and 2020-21 for final experiment on hybrid variety of chilli CH 27. The physical and mechanical properties and degradation characteristics of developed nonwoven mulch mats, temperature, moisture content (%) of soil, growth and yield characteristics of plant were recorded in both laboratory and field tests. The experimental data revealed that developed mulches successfully enhanced all crop parameters because of better moisture retention in the soil and the resulting weed growth was also very less. It is concluded that the most desirable ratio of cotton, polyester and acrylic waste for developing mulch mat was 70:20:10 with 200GSM and 3 mm thickness as maximum degradation, crop growth and yield has been observed for this ratio. The developed mats were cost effective and also had an advantage of being able to be used twice unlike plastic mulches.
Open Access
Development of blended and union fabrics from eri and ramie fibre
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2022) Tamta, Meenakshi; Mahajan, Surabhi
The present study was conducted to analyze the properties of yarns and fabrics developed by blending eri and ramie fibres at carding stagein 100:0, 25:75, 50:50, 75:25 and 0:100 ratios. Blended yarn in 50:50 ratio was found optimum due to its excellent physical and mechanical properties. Blended fabric (B1) was constructed from optimumblend ratio whereas union fabrics (U-I and U-II) were constructed by the use of pure eri silk and ramie yarns. Fabric B1 exhibited excellent tensile and tearing strength, significantly improved abrasion resistance, bending length and good flexural rigidity. Union fabrics U-I and U-II had good elongation and air permeability along with nice drape. The construction cost of the blended fabric was found to be less as compared to the union fabrics. Total hand value of developed fabrics according to Kawabata Evaluation System showed that these were suitable for men’s and women’s dress material and suiting. Subjective evaluation by a panel of judges rated U-II fabric as excellent in comparison to U-I and B1. All the developed fabrics were also found suitable for home textiles. Three end products namely men’s jacket, men’s waist coat and a ladies top were constructed from different developed fabrics and these were found to be readily accepted byconsumers pointing towards their good commercial viability.
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A situational analysis of powerloom industry : micro, small and medium enterprises of Ludhiana
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Singh, Garima; Brar, Kanwaljit Kaur
The present study was conducted on a sample of 128 micro, small and medium enterprises, comprising of all the micro and medium powerloom enterprises enlisted in the list of DIC, Ludhiana and seventy-six small enterprises selected through purposive probability proportional to size sampling technique, in purposively selected Industrial Area A and Focal Point areas of Ludhiana district as the clusters of powerloom MSMEs existed there. The data collected from owners/managers of the units using self-structured interview schedulewere analysed using percentages, mean score and chi-square test. In powerloom MSMEs of Ludhiana, acrylic yarn (97.65 %) was the most popularly used raw material for woven goods. All the MSMEs procured the yarn from local sources as high-quality man-made and blended yarns were readily available in the local market. Maximum percentage of the MSMEs (78.90%) had installed plain looms with jacquard attachment for structural designs. Among all MSMEs, only 12.05 per cent units had electronic looms with jacquard attachment and just 7.81 per cent possessed fully computerized looms with dobby attachmentwhich had higher production capacity. Out of 39 MSMEs, 38.46 per cent had imported new looms from Italy. Nearly 60.00 per cent of the powerloom MSMEs operated throughout the year. Still a considerable percentage of units (40.61%) had main production period from July-December. All the MSMEs performed the pre-loom activities like winding to weaving, and more than 60.00 per cent of them were also designing and finishing the products. Cutting (14.06%), printing (7.03%) and stitching (14.47%) activities were performed by low percentage of small enterprises and half of the medium enterprises carried out all the postloom activities. Men‘s yardage for shirting and suiting (64.85%), women‘s suit yardage (87.5%) and different types of shawls such as plain, jamawar (39.06) and embroidered shawls (29.68%) were manufactured by MSMEs. Most of the MSMEs had not ventured into forward vertical integration and value addition of the products due to lack of funds and low managerial capacities. Maximum percentage of the MSMEs (53.12%) could earn 5-10 per cent profit followed by 35.93 per cent owners who gained 10-15 per cent profit in their business. Majority of the MSME owners (87.50%) were found to be well acquainted about government schemes. All unit owners were aware of Margin Money Subsidy Scheme, yet only 37.50 per cent of them were availing its benefits due to time consuming and cumbersome process. Stiff market competition offered by large enterprises was a challenge for all the medium powerloom enterprises. Perennial problems of powerloom MSMEs of Ludhiana such as hiked prices of yarn, old weaving technology, soaring cost of labour, low profit margin and market recession still persist. Concrete policy framework, government‘s intervention and help to the industry can boost its performance.
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Construction of knitted fabrics using different blends of oak tasar waste/viscose fibre
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Pooja; Bains, Sandeep
The present study entitled “Construction of knitted fabrics using different blends of oak tasar waste/viscose fibre” was carried out with the objectives, to develop blended yarns from oak tasar waste/viscose fibres, to determine the physical and mechanical properties of the developed blended yarns, to construct the knitted fabrics and to study their physical and mechanical properties and to suggest suitable end uses for the oak tasar waste/viscose blended knitted fabrics. Blending of oak tasar silk waste and viscose fibres was done in the ratio of 60:40, 50:50 and 40:60. The draw frame blending method was adopted and the requisite amount of each fibre was combined on weight basis using worsted spinning system. Yarns of 15 Nm and 20 Nm were spun for each proportion. On the basis of yarn evenness, yarn strength and yarn moisture regain, four optimum blended yarns were selected for the development of fabrics and were knitted on a circular knitting machine. Physical and mechanical properties of the developed fabrics were studied. Subjective evaluation was carried out to analyze the hand values, end uses of the developed fabrics and the performance of developed fabrics in textile industry. It was observed that, 80 per cent judges preferred fabric S3 with excellent smoothness rating, 53.3 per cent judges preferred fabricS4 for softness with excellent rating, 66.7 per cent judges preferred fabricS3 in case of uniformity with excellent uniformity rating.40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 15 Nm exhibited best results for fabric pilling, tensile strength and elongation, snagging resistance, bending length and fabric spirality. Whereas 40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 20 Nm exhibited best results for drapability, GSM, bursting strength and flat abrasion resistance. Also 60% OTW:40% viscose blended fabric of 20 Nm showed best results for elastic properties and thermal insulation. 40% OTW:60% viscose blended fabric of 15 Nm depicted highest rating for smoothness, uniformity, tactile sensation, aesthetic appearance and total hand value. Shrugs, ponchos, stoles and tops and tunics are the most suitable end uses for the fabrics made from 15Nm and 20 Nm blended fabrics while quilt covers, khes/light weight top sheet and bed sheet are the most suitable home textiles that could be made from these fabrics. The cost of the fabric reduced with the reduction of silk proportion in the yarn.
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Blending of mulberry silk waste/viscose fibre for construction of knitted fabrics
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Bajaj, Shikha; Bains, Sandeep
The present review examines various properties of yarns and knitted fabrics developed by blending mulberry silk waste and viscose fibres in different proportions. Yarns and fabrics were formed by blending at gillbox stage and spinning was carried out on worsted spinning system and blending ratios formed included 60:40, 50:50 and 40:60 for Mulberry silk waste: Viscose proportions. All the proportions were spun into 15 and 20 metric counts (Nm). Yarn blended in proportion of 50% Mulberry silk: 50% viscose and 40% Mulberry silk: 60% viscose were found suitable for fabric development, in both 15 Nm and 20 Nm yarn counts due to less unevenness, cost benefits and high single yarn strength. Developed knitted fabrics blended in proportion of 50% Mulberry silk: 50% viscose in 20 Nm count and 40% Mulberry silk: 60% viscose in 15 Nm count, in single jersey construction on circular knitting machine were found suitable for commercial production due to highest thermal insulation, less shrinkage, good drapability, less spirality per centage, high tensile strength properties and lower production cost. Knitted fabrics can be used for development of tops and tunics, T shirts and polos, sweaters, ponchos, stole, shrugs, muffler, childrens’ pant and light weight top sheets. Fabric blended in composition of 40% mulberry silk: 60% viscose was found to be most appropriate for apparel production due to higher values of thermal insulation, lower shrinkage and tensile strength properties. Cost of blended fabrics were much less as compared to pure silk fabrics and thus found to be suitable for large scale production.
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Effect of ultraviolet absorbers and dyeing on ultraviolet protection through mercerized cotton fabric
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Sushila; Bains, Sandeep
The present study entitled “Effect of ultraviolet absorbers and dyeing on ultraviolet protection through mercerized cotton fabric” was carried out in Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. The study was conducted to explore the effects of application of benzophenone UV absorbers in combination with reactive dyes on mercerized cotton fabric. Benzophenone-6 and Benzophenone-2 were selected for the UV treatment of the fabric. UV treatment conditions were optimised on the basis of ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). Treatment parameters optimized for both UV absorbers included Na2CO3 pre-treatment pH, treatment temperature, treatment time and UV absorber concentration. Pre-treatment at pH of 10 at 700C temperature found optimum for Benzophenone-6. For Benzophenone-2 optimum results were obtained at pre-treatment pH of 11 at temperature of 750C. Both UV absorbers gave best results when UV treatment was done for 35 minutes using 2% concentration. For dyeing, four hot reactive dyes and four cold reactive dyes were selected. Dyeing parameters optimized included dyeing pH, temperature, time and dye concentration. The conditions were optimized on the basis of CIE Lab and K/S values. The results revealed that for cold reactive dyes optimum pH was found between 9-10 pH and for hot reactive dyes optimum pH was observed between 10-11 pH. For all the hot reactive dyes optimum temperatures was found to be 800C.Optimum dyeing was achieved when dyeing was done for 60-70 minutes for all the reactive dye. Optimized dye concentration for all the dyes was 5%. After dyeing and treatment, the samples were assessed for physical, mechanical and comfort properties. Subsequent to UV treatment and dyeing, Colour fastnesses properties and effect of consecutive laundering on UV treated-dyed fabric was also studied. Both the UV absorbers provided acceptable levels of ultraviolet protection. Highest UPF rating was achieved for sample dyed with Reactive Red 120 dye in combination with Benzophenone-6. Significant changes in physical properties were recorded but it did not affect fabric’s appearance negatively. For mechanical properties, an increase in % elongation was observed but it did not affect dyed-UV treated fabric’s strength negatively. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis of control fabric and untreated-dyed fabrics were performed to assess the morphological changes and chemical changes, respectively.
Open Access
Documentation of costumes of Bagri community through three generations
(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2018) Mamta; Saini, Harminder Kaur
The investigation entitled “Documentation of costumes of Bagri community through three generations” was carried out in two states namely, Punjab and Rajasthan. From Punjab, two districts, namely Muktsar and Fazilka and similarly from Rajasthan, two districts, namely Hanumangarh and Sri Ganganagar were selected for the study. A purposive sampling technique was used to select families having three generations of either male or female. A total of 360 respondents comprising 45 male and 45 female from each of the four selected districts were taken. The age of the 1st generation was 65 years and above, 2nd generation was between 45-65 years and that of the 3rd generation was in the age group of 25-45 years. Data for the investigation were collected from the respondents with the help of interview schedule. Maximum of the respondents in the first generation were illiterate, second generation studied up to matric level and respondents (both male and female) of third generation were graduate. The results of the study revealed that majority of the Bagri male respondents were engaged in farming and female respondents were housewives, respectively. Majority of the respondents (male and female) belonged to other backward class and had monthly family income between Rs 10,001-15,000. The Bagri males through three generations wore coat, kurta shirt, sherwani (upper garments), chadar, dhoti, designer dhoti pajama, pant (lower garments), potio, pagri, topi (headdresses), phenta and stole (wrap). Almost all the male respondents of three generations of both, Punjab and Rajasthan had similar type of upper and lower garments and headdresses, but there was difference in fabric choice and length of upper garments. The respondents of both states preferred neutral and warm colours for casual and ceremonial headdresses, respectively. Men wore very few jewellery. Silver metal was preferred by first generation whereas gold and silver metals were used by second and third generation of Punjab and Rajasthan, respectively. Bagri females through three generations wore aangi, blouse, jamper, kurti, kameez (upper garments), ghaghro, lehenga, salwar (lower garments), bugiyo, chuni, chundadi, pila and sunkukdo (headdresses). Almost all the female respondents of three generations of both, Punjab and Rajasthan had similar type of upper and lower garments and headdresses, but there was difference in the length of upper garments, fabric design and fabric choice of second and third generation, for both casual and ceremonial wear, respectively. The females of Punjab preferred bright colours while females of Rajasthan liked medium shades for upper and lower garments. In both states, the headdress of females were embellished with zari work, gota kinari and salama/sitara. Bagri females were very fond of jewellery. They possessed many jewellery items made in gold or silver metal. Various jewellery of the females of Rajasthan and Punjab were found to be similar but in Punjab, women of second and third generation preferred gold whereas women of Rajasthan wore jewellery of both gold and silver. The difference in designs and weight of the jewellery was also noticed. Advancement in communication media, education level, greater connectivity with urban areas and occupational shift were the major factors that were responsible for change in male and female costume pattern. For the purpose of preserving the traditional costumes of Bagri culture, total five costumes were selected. The paper patterns of these selected costumes of Bagri male (kurta and coat) and female (aangi, jamper and ghaghra) were developed in Tuka Tech software using standard sizes of third generation.

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