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ThesisItem Open Access Development of macramé dresses using textile waste(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2019) Verma, Pratishtha; Mahajan, SurabhiThis study was a step towards utilisation of textile waste material to construct dresses with macramé technique. Textile waste like cotton and wool threads, satin ribbon, artificial leather, drawstrings, shoe laces etc. was collected from homes, tailor’s shop and industries in Ludhiana. Twelve macramé samples of size 5 x 5 inches were made from the collected textile waste material. A panel of fifteen members was constituted from Department of Apparel and Textile Science and Family Resource Management PAU, Ludhiana to select five textile waste materials for construction of dresses. According to weighted mean score, cotton thread, chiffon fabric, artificial leather, wool thread and satin ribbon were selected for construction of dresses. Two pencil sketches for macramé dresses were made for each selected textile material. A questionnaire was developed and administered on ninety college going girls in three colleges of Ludhiana city. The questionnaire aimed at collecting background information of the respondents and their awareness about macramé technique, preference for dress sketches, length, colour combination and embellishment of the macramé dresses to be developed. Majority of the respondents were aware about this technique and preferred sleeveless, knee length and multi-coloured macramé dresses embellished with beads and buttons. The dresses were constructed on 34˝ size dress form and their cost price was calculated which included cost of textile material wherever applicable, lining, embellishment and cut make trim. A profit percent of 40 was added to cost of each dress to calculate the estimated selling price which lied in the range ₹ 1,200 - ₹ 2,200. To ascertain the suitability of the estimated selling price and overall appeal of the constructed dresses, a second questionnaire was developed and administered in the sample space with a sample size of 30. Cotton thread and artificial leather dress was adjudged as excellent by the respondents, while dress made from wool thread was assessed as very good and dresses constructed from chiffon and satin ribbon were considered as good. The estimated selling price of all the constructed macramé dresses was considered appropriate except for artificial leather dress which was adjudged as low priced. Hence, the dresses developed from textile waste using macramé technique were cost-effective and aesthetically appealing. Thus, development of such dresses can be taken up on a mass scale for earning money.ThesisItem Restricted Development of knitted fabric from blend of soy silk and waste wool fiber(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2019) Tewari, Srishti; Mahajan, SurabhiThe study aimed at constructing knitted fabrics from blend of soy silk and waste wool fiber. Blending of soy silk and waste wool fiber was done in the ratio 20:80, 30:70 and 50:50 using roving method and 10 kg of fiber mix was prepared for each blend. Both worsted and woollen spinning system were used to spin the blended slivers. The yarn count varied with the blend ratio. The yarn with blend ratio 20:80 had a count 2/18, yarn with blend ratio 30:70 was a single ply yarn with a count 1/10 and blend ratio 50:50 had a yarn count of 1/0.50. The developed blended yarns were tested for selected physical and mechanical properties. On the basis of test results and aesthetic appeal of blended yarns, the yarns with blend ratio of 20:80 and 30:70 were used to construct weft knitted fabrics. Each blended yarn was knitted into both single and double knitted structures. The fabrics developed were shown to a panel of experts from knitting industry and academia. The weft knitted fabrics were found suitable for both apparel and upholstery applications. In apparel, the fabrics were suggested to be used for making sweaters, cardigans, kids wear, socks, caps and t-shirts. The developed fabrics were also found suitable for cushion covers and table linens in upholstery. The yarn with blend ratio 50:50 was found suitable for making blankets, khes, durries and carpets. The cost of the developed fabric from blend ratio 20:80 and 30:70 was ₹ 285.71 and ₹ 228.57 per metre respectively. The developed blended yarns and fabrics were also analysed for their production feasibility by taking expert opinion and ranking them on a 3 point scale. All the developed fabrics were found to feasible for commercial production and their probable acceptance of consumer acceptability also came out to be high when they were evaluated against set parameters. Thus, the developed fabrics are recommended to be taken for commercial production in knitting industries.ThesisItem Open Access Development of utility articles from old neckties(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2019) Manjot Kaur; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present investigation was undertaken to study the reutilization of old neckties for developing utility articles. A structured questionnaire was used to obtain preferences of experts regarding various utility articles that could be developed from old neckties. The expert panel consisted of 10 experts comprising of faculty members of Department of Apparel and Textile Science. According to their preference, six utility articles were selected namely cushion cover, multipurpose organizer, clutch, handbag, file cover and table mat. Four designs were made for each article with the variation in shape, style and colour. Thus, a total of twenty four designs were developed digitally using Corel Draw X7 and were documented. An interview schedule was used for collecting data from ninety respondents selected randomly from three different colleges of Ludhiana city regarding their preferences for designs of various utility articles, their base fabric, embellishment/ decoration and technique of construction. The results revealed that most preferred base fabric for utility articles were glace cotton, canvas, synthetic blend and jute. Lace, frills, tassels and machine embroidery were the most preferred embellishment and decoration types. Majority of respondents preferred patch work, pin tucking, weaving and braiding as the appropriate techniques of construction. The articles were developed and their evaluation was undertaken by showing them to a sub sample of thirty respondents. The developed utility articles were evaluated on the basis of their overall appearance on a five point scale. Most of the respondents considered the developed articles as excellent and very good. Maximum number of respondents liked the idea of reutilization of neckties for making the utility articles. Also, majority of the respondents considered the estimated selling price of the articles as adequate. The market price of developed articles was also assessed and the result showed that all the utility articles were saleable within a selling price range of `300-1400.ThesisItem Open Access Study on performance appraisal of shawl units in Ludhiana(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sharma, Omika; Gandotra, VandanaThe present investigation was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was formulated to collect the required information from the powerloom shawl weaving units regarding the infrastructure of the units. Data were collected with the help of pre structured interview schedule from 60 randomly selected powerloom shawl weaving units. The results of the study revealed that majority of units had made fixed capital investment of `40 lakhs to 60 lakhs and working capital investment between `20 lakhs to 40 lakhs to establish the unit. Majority of units had installed capacity of 10 to 30 power looms and 60 percent possessed semi computerized looms to prepare shawls. Majority of units used acrylic fiber as raw material for preparing shawls and they purchased the yarn from local market. Most of units had employed total number of 40 to 80 workers. All the units produced plain shawls and majority of units had annual production of plain shawls between `60,000-90,000. Majority of units were selling their products in the local market. Twenty five percent units had minimum annual sale up to `50 lakhs. Majority of respondents faced the problems related to shortage of skilled labour (weighted mean score 2.83), high price of raw material (weighted mean score 3.68), low profit margins (weighted mean score 6.50), lack of proper infrastructure (weighted mean score 4.50), lack of power supply (weighted mean score 1.83) and maintenance of looms (weighted mean score 1.16)ThesisItem Restricted Online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2016) Ishneet Kaur; Grewal, SumeetThe present investigation was undertaken to study the online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products. The present study was conducted in three different colleges of Ludhiana city. A sample size of 180 respondents comprising of thirty boys and thirty girls from each college were purposively selected. A Questionnaire was used for collecting data regarding their socio economic profile, online shopping experience and satisfaction from online buying. The results of the investigation were interpreted using percentages, mean scores, Z-tests and chi-square. Based on the results of the collected data, the most preferred apparel product for online shopping was footwear by the male and female respondents. Significant difference was observed for male and female respondents regarding amount of money spend on single purchase and brand preference. Male respondents tend to spend more amount of money for online buying than female respondents. Majority of female respondents visit retail stores before final purchase. Majority of female respondents discuss with their friends and family after receiving the product as compared to male respondents. The most preferred online shopping site by male and female respondents is flipkart.com and the most preferred feature of online shopping site is privacy and security. Significant association was found between annual household income and annual online buying, brand preference. There was significant association between age of the respondents and mode of payment and main barriers which affect frequent buying. Majority of male had high level of satisfaction. The female respondents had both high and medium level of satisfaction from online shopping.ThesisItem Open Access Development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Arpana; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present investigation was undertaken to study the development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes. Five natural dyes and two mordants were purposively selected. The study was conducted on the college going girls in three different colleges of Punjab Agricultural University. An interview schedule was used for collecting data from ninety respondents regarding their preferences for kurti styles, necklines, sleeves and length. The results were interpreted using simple percentages and average weighted mean scores. The results of the collected data revealed that most preferred kurti styles were Anarkali, A-line, Center cut, C-shaped hem, Straight and Paneled. Boat, crew and round shape were preferred necklines and majority of the respondents showed inclination for sleeveless kurtis which were below knees in length. Twenty five silk samples were produced with combinations of selected natural dyes and mordants using different tie and dye techniques according to optimum dyeing conditions referred from secondary sources. Out of these samples, fifteen were shortlisted by the Advisory Committee. These were taken in fill tool of Corel Draw to develop eighteen designs using the most preferred kurti style features. The developed designs were shown to a panel of ten judges who shortlisted six designs which were constructed on 34" dress form standard measurements. The constructed kurtis were evaluated by a sub sample of forty-five respondents on the basis of overall appearance on a five point scale and were ranked excellent or very good. Hundred percent respondents liked the idea of natural dyed kurtis using tie and dye and majority of them considered the estimated price of the kurtis adequate and were ready to buy them.ThesisItem Restricted Development of cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sharma, Anjali; Bains, SandeepThe present study entitled “Development of cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs” was carried out in Ludhiana city. Both the cotton fabric and pigment dyes were purchased from the local market of Ludhiana district. An attempt was aimed towards developing new designs for cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs with pigment dyes utilizing hand painting technique. The researcher documented fifty motifs, sources of natural dyes used by traditional Madhubani painters and also studied the symbolism of Madhubani motifs. Twenty motifs were shortlisted and categorized into animal and bird motif, floral motif, tree of life motif, human motif and sun motif five categories by a panel of ten judges. One motif was selected and adapted from each category of motif for the development of twenty designs using with different colour combinations and placement. The developed designs were shown to a panel of ten judges and were asked to choose one best design for the development of final cotton kurtis. Five cotton kurtis were developed using selected five designs and placements with pigment dyes of red, green, yellow, blue, black, orange and skin colours. The colour fastness grades were evaluated for pigment dyes to various agencies including: washing, light, rubbing and perspiration. Pigment dye black and red shows excellent (5) grades for wash fastness and perspiration. Good (4) rubbing fastness grades and very good (6) light fastness grades were obtained by red and black pigment dyes. An inventory was prepared to record the views of thirty consumers. In this part the consumers preferred the Kurti K1with fish motif the most on the basis of design placement, colour combination and overall appearance. In the case of Kurti K1 the cost price was Rs 1125/- with profit margin 33.3 percent. Majority of the respondents (78.8%) reported that the quoted price was adequate for prepared cotton kurtis. The painting of kurtis can be promoted as an enterprise, where a painter can earn 30-40% profit.ThesisItem Restricted Designing of upper garments for young women using draping technique(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sood, Neha; Saini, Harminder KaurThe investigation entitled ‘Designing of upper garments for young women using draping technique’ was carried out in Ludhiana city. A market survey was done on 20 apparel stores to study prevailing market trends in different upper garments. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting the data from 90 young women between the age group of 18-24 years, selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The findings revealed that majority of the respondents were from the second year of graduation, belongs to nuclear family having urban background and had monthly family income ranged between Rs.40,00180,000. Blouson, capes, classic tops, tunics and shrugs were the five most preferred upper garments. Plain cotton fabric without design in black colour for upper garments was most preferred during summer and winter season. Among constructional features, respondents preferred half dart, circular flounce, gathers with elastic, flared peplum, knife pleats, patch pocket, gathered ruffle, pin tucks and straight yoke, respectively. Buttons were most preferred accessory in upper garments. Four designs each, for the five most preferred upper garments were developed through draping technique. Preferences regarding the twenty developed designs of upper garments were taken. Thus, top two ranked designs of five most preferred upper garments were selected for construction. Acceptability of prepared upper garments was evaluated on the basis of drape, design, accessories/surface embellishments and overall appearance. Majority of the respondents found design A2 of tunics, design B3 of classic tops, design C3 of blouson, design D1 of capes and design E4 of shrugs to be very good in drape, design, accessories/surface embellishments and overall appearance.ThesisItem Open Access Development of Rechargeable Thermo Jackets(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Chohan, Tanvir Kaur; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present investigation was carried out for developing the rechargeable thermo jackets using heating gel packs. The principle and working of heating gel packs were reviewed from secondary sources. Ten gel pack manufacturing industries were surveyed for collecting information regarding fabricS used by them for manufacturing gel packs and it was found that PVC fabric and casement were most popularly used. Different combinations of selected fabrics were used to develop three cervical collars (as a technology miniature) and their heat retention was recorded. The collar made up of PVC fabric in outer layer and casement fabric in inner layer showed the maximum heat retention. Six experts including three orthopedicians and three physiotherapists were consulted for collecting information on upper quadrant pains commonly found amongst their patients. The collected data was used for creating two functional designs for thermo jackets. The better design of jacket according to experts was finally developed using suitable fabrics. Ten respondents (five male and five females) who were suffering from upper quadrant pains were selected purposively and an interview schedule was used to collect preliminary information about them. The respondents were given the jackets to use for five days after which impact of developed jacket was studied with the help of an evaluation performa. It was found that maximum of the respondents found jacket to be extremely comfortable. None of them faced any problem in heating and placing gel packs in jacket gloves and majority of them were relieved from their pain after using the jackets. The jacket was considered to be functionally as well as cost effective by majority of the respondents.
