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ThesisItem Open Access Study on performance appraisal of shawl units in Ludhiana(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sharma, Omika; Gandotra, VandanaThe present investigation was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was formulated to collect the required information from the powerloom shawl weaving units regarding the infrastructure of the units. Data were collected with the help of pre structured interview schedule from 60 randomly selected powerloom shawl weaving units. The results of the study revealed that majority of units had made fixed capital investment of `40 lakhs to 60 lakhs and working capital investment between `20 lakhs to 40 lakhs to establish the unit. Majority of units had installed capacity of 10 to 30 power looms and 60 percent possessed semi computerized looms to prepare shawls. Majority of units used acrylic fiber as raw material for preparing shawls and they purchased the yarn from local market. Most of units had employed total number of 40 to 80 workers. All the units produced plain shawls and majority of units had annual production of plain shawls between `60,000-90,000. Majority of units were selling their products in the local market. Twenty five percent units had minimum annual sale up to `50 lakhs. Majority of respondents faced the problems related to shortage of skilled labour (weighted mean score 2.83), high price of raw material (weighted mean score 3.68), low profit margins (weighted mean score 6.50), lack of proper infrastructure (weighted mean score 4.50), lack of power supply (weighted mean score 1.83) and maintenance of looms (weighted mean score 1.16)ThesisItem Restricted Online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2016) Ishneet Kaur; Grewal, SumeetThe present investigation was undertaken to study the online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products. The present study was conducted in three different colleges of Ludhiana city. A sample size of 180 respondents comprising of thirty boys and thirty girls from each college were purposively selected. A Questionnaire was used for collecting data regarding their socio economic profile, online shopping experience and satisfaction from online buying. The results of the investigation were interpreted using percentages, mean scores, Z-tests and chi-square. Based on the results of the collected data, the most preferred apparel product for online shopping was footwear by the male and female respondents. Significant difference was observed for male and female respondents regarding amount of money spend on single purchase and brand preference. Male respondents tend to spend more amount of money for online buying than female respondents. Majority of female respondents visit retail stores before final purchase. Majority of female respondents discuss with their friends and family after receiving the product as compared to male respondents. The most preferred online shopping site by male and female respondents is flipkart.com and the most preferred feature of online shopping site is privacy and security. Significant association was found between annual household income and annual online buying, brand preference. There was significant association between age of the respondents and mode of payment and main barriers which affect frequent buying. Majority of male had high level of satisfaction. The female respondents had both high and medium level of satisfaction from online shopping.ThesisItem Open Access Development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Arpana; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present investigation was undertaken to study the development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes. Five natural dyes and two mordants were purposively selected. The study was conducted on the college going girls in three different colleges of Punjab Agricultural University. An interview schedule was used for collecting data from ninety respondents regarding their preferences for kurti styles, necklines, sleeves and length. The results were interpreted using simple percentages and average weighted mean scores. The results of the collected data revealed that most preferred kurti styles were Anarkali, A-line, Center cut, C-shaped hem, Straight and Paneled. Boat, crew and round shape were preferred necklines and majority of the respondents showed inclination for sleeveless kurtis which were below knees in length. Twenty five silk samples were produced with combinations of selected natural dyes and mordants using different tie and dye techniques according to optimum dyeing conditions referred from secondary sources. Out of these samples, fifteen were shortlisted by the Advisory Committee. These were taken in fill tool of Corel Draw to develop eighteen designs using the most preferred kurti style features. The developed designs were shown to a panel of ten judges who shortlisted six designs which were constructed on 34" dress form standard measurements. The constructed kurtis were evaluated by a sub sample of forty-five respondents on the basis of overall appearance on a five point scale and were ranked excellent or very good. Hundred percent respondents liked the idea of natural dyed kurtis using tie and dye and majority of them considered the estimated price of the kurtis adequate and were ready to buy them.ThesisItem Restricted Development of cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sharma, Anjali; Bains, SandeepThe present study entitled “Development of cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs” was carried out in Ludhiana city. Both the cotton fabric and pigment dyes were purchased from the local market of Ludhiana district. An attempt was aimed towards developing new designs for cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs with pigment dyes utilizing hand painting technique. The researcher documented fifty motifs, sources of natural dyes used by traditional Madhubani painters and also studied the symbolism of Madhubani motifs. Twenty motifs were shortlisted and categorized into animal and bird motif, floral motif, tree of life motif, human motif and sun motif five categories by a panel of ten judges. One motif was selected and adapted from each category of motif for the development of twenty designs using with different colour combinations and placement. The developed designs were shown to a panel of ten judges and were asked to choose one best design for the development of final cotton kurtis. Five cotton kurtis were developed using selected five designs and placements with pigment dyes of red, green, yellow, blue, black, orange and skin colours. The colour fastness grades were evaluated for pigment dyes to various agencies including: washing, light, rubbing and perspiration. Pigment dye black and red shows excellent (5) grades for wash fastness and perspiration. Good (4) rubbing fastness grades and very good (6) light fastness grades were obtained by red and black pigment dyes. An inventory was prepared to record the views of thirty consumers. In this part the consumers preferred the Kurti K1with fish motif the most on the basis of design placement, colour combination and overall appearance. In the case of Kurti K1 the cost price was Rs 1125/- with profit margin 33.3 percent. Majority of the respondents (78.8%) reported that the quoted price was adequate for prepared cotton kurtis. The painting of kurtis can be promoted as an enterprise, where a painter can earn 30-40% profit.ThesisItem Restricted Designing of upper garments for young women using draping technique(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sood, Neha; Saini, Harminder KaurThe investigation entitled ‘Designing of upper garments for young women using draping technique’ was carried out in Ludhiana city. A market survey was done on 20 apparel stores to study prevailing market trends in different upper garments. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting the data from 90 young women between the age group of 18-24 years, selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The findings revealed that majority of the respondents were from the second year of graduation, belongs to nuclear family having urban background and had monthly family income ranged between Rs.40,00180,000. Blouson, capes, classic tops, tunics and shrugs were the five most preferred upper garments. Plain cotton fabric without design in black colour for upper garments was most preferred during summer and winter season. Among constructional features, respondents preferred half dart, circular flounce, gathers with elastic, flared peplum, knife pleats, patch pocket, gathered ruffle, pin tucks and straight yoke, respectively. Buttons were most preferred accessory in upper garments. Four designs each, for the five most preferred upper garments were developed through draping technique. Preferences regarding the twenty developed designs of upper garments were taken. Thus, top two ranked designs of five most preferred upper garments were selected for construction. Acceptability of prepared upper garments was evaluated on the basis of drape, design, accessories/surface embellishments and overall appearance. Majority of the respondents found design A2 of tunics, design B3 of classic tops, design C3 of blouson, design D1 of capes and design E4 of shrugs to be very good in drape, design, accessories/surface embellishments and overall appearance.ThesisItem Open Access Development of Rechargeable Thermo Jackets(Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Chohan, Tanvir Kaur; Mahajan, SurabhiThe present investigation was carried out for developing the rechargeable thermo jackets using heating gel packs. The principle and working of heating gel packs were reviewed from secondary sources. Ten gel pack manufacturing industries were surveyed for collecting information regarding fabricS used by them for manufacturing gel packs and it was found that PVC fabric and casement were most popularly used. Different combinations of selected fabrics were used to develop three cervical collars (as a technology miniature) and their heat retention was recorded. The collar made up of PVC fabric in outer layer and casement fabric in inner layer showed the maximum heat retention. Six experts including three orthopedicians and three physiotherapists were consulted for collecting information on upper quadrant pains commonly found amongst their patients. The collected data was used for creating two functional designs for thermo jackets. The better design of jacket according to experts was finally developed using suitable fabrics. Ten respondents (five male and five females) who were suffering from upper quadrant pains were selected purposively and an interview schedule was used to collect preliminary information about them. The respondents were given the jackets to use for five days after which impact of developed jacket was studied with the help of an evaluation performa. It was found that maximum of the respondents found jacket to be extremely comfortable. None of them faced any problem in heating and placing gel packs in jacket gloves and majority of them were relieved from their pain after using the jackets. The jacket was considered to be functionally as well as cost effective by majority of the respondents.ThesisItem Open Access DOCUMENTATION OF TRADITIONAL PARANDA AND NAALA IN THE MALWA REGION OF PUNJAB(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Arsh Jyot Kaur; Kanwaljit Kaur, BrarThe present study was undertaken to document traditional paranda, a hair accessory and naala, a woven tape for lower garment used by the rural women in the Malwa region of Punjab. Three surveys conducted from samples of 180 rural women who had worn parandas or woven naalas and 30 shopkeepers selling these products selected randomly from Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda districts of Malwa region, indicated a sharp decline in the practice of invaluable traditional crafts of paranda and naala in these regions. None of the respondents in a wide range of age (25-95 yrs) was found to be weaving naalas during these days. Besides, only 48.89 per cent respondents were wearing parandas. Arbi gatth and jalebi were named after the knots used in tassels; sheeshe wala, jhumki zari, gatta ghungroo and moti parandas were named after the embellishments used in tassels. Paranda making techniques were known to only 4.45 per cent respondents. The craft of dori making for paranda was mainly practised by female artisans who were paid only `25-50 per dozen doris, while male artisans were paid `150 for preparing tassels of 40 doris in Patiala city, a hub of cultural handicrafts. Regular naalas for salwars were made by using both loom and finger weaving techniques. Fancy naalas for ghagras were made by loom weaving technique only. Cotton, tussar or acrylic fibres were used for both type of naalas. Warping was done on peerhi, nails or adda and loom weaving was done by using adda or manja. No equipment was used for finger weaving. Round and square harrarh were most popular amongst others such as double square, jalebi, gol gand, karela and spring harrarh. Motifs like dabbiyaan and murabbebandi in loom woven naalas, and gutt, burfi, and machhi motif in finger woven naalas were made by all the respondents. The shopkeepers were selling both remix and machine made (tape and battiyaan wale) naalas in Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda city. One remix naala took 36 times lesser work hours for finishing it in comparison to hand woven naala. Changes in lifestyle, fashion trends, lack of time and women education were identified as the major factors responsible for not making parandas these days. Diversification of the crafts, publication of design books, preservation of the craft in museum, publicising the crafts through exhibitions and other media, inclusion of these crafts in the school curriculum, organisation of cultural fairs and competitions, development of clusters of textile handicrafts, special awards for young artisans, organization of trainings and strengthening of handicraft boards may help in reviving these crafts of Punjab for the posterity.ThesisItem Open Access PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT BY USING SELECTED MINOR FIBRES THROUGH WEAVING(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Amanpreet Kaur; Sandeep, BainsThe present study entitled "Product development by using selected minor fibres through weaving" was carried out in Mansa district. An interview schedule was prepared for collecting data from forty respondents. The results of investigation revealed that majority of the respondents belonged to 25-50 years of age who were illiterate, they belonged to joint families and had a monthly income between Rs.2500-5000. Majority (97.5 percent) of the respondents used waste cotton as minor fibre because it is easily available in the open market. Most of the respondent wove durries in traditional designs by using floral motifs. They created textures using two-types of fibre. Majority used natural fibre for the background and two colours for the motifs. Lattice was the most preferred technique (97 percent) to finish the raw edges. Durrie was the most time consuming article and four craft persons took four days and on each day they wove for four hours to complete a durrie. Out of all the articles the craft persons earned maximum profit from sitter (peedhi). The major problem faced by the respondents were lack of financial assistance and lack of demand for product. Forty four samples were created using minor fibres out of which ten most preferred samples were selected by each judge. Texture made from undyed hemp using twill weave (3/1) was given first rank. Later ten articles were prepared which included bag, purse, tray, belt, slippers, coaster plates, newspaper holder, fan (pakhhi), sitter (peedhi) and file cover. On the basis of fibre suitability, bag and file cover were ranked first by the craft persons and the consumers, respectively. According to the design coaster plates were ranked first both by the craft persons and the consumers. On the basis of colour combinations slippers and coaster plates ranked first by the craft persons and the consumers, respectively. Coaster plates were ranked first both by the craft persons and the consumers according to the overall impact. According to the utility bag and file cover were ranked first by the craft person and the consumers, respectively. Majority of the craft person (57.5 percent) and the consumers (72.5 percent) reported that the quoted price were suitable. Thirty to forty percent can me earned by making innovating articles using minor fibres through weaving.ThesisItem Open Access A STUDY ON DYEING PERFORMANCE ON MULBERRY SILK WASTE/WOOL BLENDED FABRIC(PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Pooja Bhatt; Sandeep BainsThe present study entitled “A study on dyeing performance on mulberry silk waste/wool blended fabric” was carried out to analyse the effect of dyeing on mulberry silk/wool blended fabric. Cold reactive, hot reactive, leveling acid and milling acid dyes were selected for the study. Optimum conditions for dyeing the mulberry silk waste/wool blended fabric with cold reactive dye was, pH 7 for 60 minutes at room temperature using 4 percent dye concentration. Whereas 5 pH for 70 minutes at 90°C with 3 percent dye concentration was considered optimum for dyeing the fabric with hot reactive dye. In case of levelling acid dyeing optimum dyeing conditions were, pH 5 for 80 minutes at 90°C using 4 percent dye concentration. In order to optimize the dyeing condition for milling acid dye best results were obtained at 7 pH with dyeing time 80 minutes, temperature 90°C and 4 percent dye concentration. Physical and mechanical properties like crease recovery angle and tensile strength increased after dyeing the fabric with cold reactive dye, this was followed by hot reactive dyed fabric. Whereas fabric dyed using milling acid dye showed better GSM, thickness, drapability and elongation. However no change was observed on the cover factor after dyeing. Light fastness grade was excellent for the fabric dyed using milling dye and good. Fabric dyed using hot reactive dye showed excellent grade for wash fastness in terms of colour change and no staining on both wool and silk fabrics. The fabric dyed with milling dye exhibited good to excellent grade for dry rubbing in terms of colour change and negligible staining on adjacent fabric, for wet rubbing good grade in terms of colour change and slight staining was observed on adjacent fabric. Hot reactive dyed fabric showed better results for perspiration fastness as compared to the other dyed fabrics. The perspiration grade of hot reactive dyed fabric was excellent for colour change in acidic medium and slight staining on both wool and silk fabrics. When the dyed fabric was kept in the alkaline medium the colour change was ranged between good to excellent, negligible staining was found on wool fabric and slight staining was observed on silk fabric.
