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20235
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Subject: Textile and Apparel Designing × Start date: 2023 × Type: Thesis × Thesis Type: M.Sc ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Effect of eco-friendly mordant on dyeability of cotton fabric with anionic dye
    (CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-02) Divya; Verma, Mona
    Textile industry is considered as one of the most ecologically harmful industry in the world. There is need to approach new strategies, methods, material for dyeing treatment for environmentally friendly modification of cotton fibres for improvement of dyeability of cotton fabric with anionic dyes. To achieve the objectives of the study, different types of mordants with different direct dyes, were tried and one mordant and one direct dye was selected on the basis of colour properties of dyed fabrics. MMW chitosan and direct red dye was selected for further standardization work. Standardization of mordant treatment and dyeing process was done on the basis of percent dye absorption, colour strength (K/S) value and wash fastness grades (CC) for different variables. Application of standardized MMW chitosan and direct red dye was given on cotton fabric using exhaust method. It was found that the chitosan treated dyed cotton fabric showed higher dye absorption (71.20%), colour strength (14.01), wash fastness rating very good (4/5) than SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric having dye absorption (68.56%), colour strength (10.46 K/S) and good (4) wash fastness. The MMW chitosan treated dyed fabric showed higher crease recovery (100 degree) than SSSC treated dyed (94.1 degree) cotton fabric. The MMW chitosan treated dyed fabric showed increased percent reduction in bacterial growth against E. coli (85.51%) and S. aureus (86.20%) bacteria than SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric, 17.75% and 18.22% respectively. The MMW chitosan treated dyed cotton fabric reflected the higher UPF value (213.94) than with SSSC treated dyed cotton fabric (110.35). MMW chitosan treated dyed fabrics demonstrated better antibacterial and ultraviolet protection property than SSSC treated dyed fabrics. Thus, it was concluded that MMW chitosan treatment can enhance the colour properties of cotton fabric without using any harsh chemicals and is capable enough to replace the use of metallic salts/electrolytes in the dyeing of cotton fabric with anionic dyes. The chitosan treatment along with direct red dye played an important role in imparting the multifunctionality to cotton fabric by imparting UV protection, bacterial resistance and crease resistance in efficient way with eco-friendly and safe mordant method which will curtail the pollution load on environment.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Application of natural dye with biomordant to enhance the dyeability of cotton fabric
    (CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-05) Kushwah, Namrata; Arya, Nisha
    Increasing concern about environmental pollution in all aspects of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of biomordants have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the purpose of this study was to evaluate the impact of biomordants on the effectiveness of dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dyes as an alternative to metal based mordants and salts. Standardization of biomordanting process for two biomordants i.e. curry leaves and pomegranate peel for sappanwood dye and two biomordants i.e. lemon peel and pomegranate peel for madder dye was done on the basis of dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different concentrations and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabric was pretreated with selected biomordants and dyed with selected natural dyes. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of the biomordant treated dyed fabric samples were done. SEM analysis demonstrated plain surface of biomordant treated sample and FTIR analysis revealed the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to biomordant treatment. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordant treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were mordanting with 11 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio, 9 pH, at 60°C treatment temperature and 60 minutes treatment time for curry leaves and pomegranate peel, respectively for sappanwood dye. The parameter optimized for biomordanting process of scoured fabric were mordanting with 15 and 11 per cent concentration, 1:30 M: L Ratio and 1:40 M: L Ratio, 7 and 9 pH, at 60°C and 45°C treatment temperature and 60 and 45 minutes treatment time for lemon peel and pomegranate peel, respectively for madder dye. All the biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The curry leaves treated and pomegranate peel treated dyed (sappanwood) fabric and lemon peel and pomegranate peel treated dyed (madder) fabric showed the highest UPF value indicating excellent protection category The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed good bacterial resistance against E. coli and S. aureus. Thus, it is concluded that biomordant treatment enhanced the dyeing efficacy of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant treatment of fabric samples dyed with natural dye improved the performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence, the biomordants are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Utilization of biopolymer for screen printing of silk with natural dyes
    (CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-10) Ritika; Yadav, Saroj
    Dyeing and printing with natural dyes are age old crafts and require artistic skill to develop colours and patterns on fabric using certain techniques. In lieu of synthetic dyes and changing market trends, the demand for natural dyed/printed products diminished. However, with stringent environment regulations and increasing interest of consumers, the use of natural dyes and biopolymers for textile processing is gaining momentum. Natural dyes and biopolymers or their combination can be applied on the textile fabrics to obtain varying colour or shade to increase the dye uptake and improve the colour fastness behaviour of any natural dye. Hence, the present study was undertaken to replace the metal based mordants and promote the use of biopolymers for textile printing. Chitosan biopolymer with five different natural dyes was explored to assceratain the effect of biopolymer mordanting in screen printing of silk fabric. Prior to biopolymer treatment the enzymatic degummimg of silk fabric was carried out using a combination of protease and papain enzymes (75:25) to improve its wettability. On the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness towards change in colour (CC) and colour staining (CS), chitosan biopolymer and two natural dyes were selected for screen printing of silk fabric. To prepare the printing paste of selected natural dye extracts, two thickeners namely guar gum and gum acacia were tried. On the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness grades, one thickner was selected. The different variables of printing receipe viz. biopolymer concentration, mordanting method, dye extract concentration, dye extract: thickener ratio and fixer concentration were optimized on the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness properties (CC and CS) of screen printed silk fabric samples. The silk fabric was screen printed as per optimized variables of printing receipe. For biopolymer mordanting and screen priniting of silk fabric with natural dyes, chitosan biopolymer along with indigo and lac dyes were selected on the basis of visual evaluation and wash fastness (CC and CS) grades of screen printed silk fabric samples. The guar gum thickner was selected to prepare the printing paste of indigo and lac dye extracts. The optimized variables viz. 15 percent concentration of chitosan biopolymer, pre mordanting method, 5 and 6 percent concentration of indigo and lac dyes respectively, 1:2 ratio of dye extract: thickener and 4 percent concentration of acrafix fixer were used for screen printing of silk fabric. The colour coordinates in terms of L*, a*, b*, C*, H* values and colour strength (K/S) of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dyes printed silk fabric samples reflected the improvement in colour properties of biopolymer treated printed silk fabric samples as compared to unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed samples. The colour fastness properties towards wash, light, perspiration and rubbing of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dye printed samples ranged between good (4) to excellent (5) which were observed to be higher in comparison to unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed samples. Priliminary properties i.e. fabric count, weight and thickness of chitosan biopolymer mordanted printed samples exhibited an increase in these properties. The physical properties studied in terms of bending length, tensile strength, elongation and performance properties i.e. crease recovery angle and functional properties viz. UV protection and antibacterial activity of chitosan biopolymer mordanted and indigo and lac dyes printed silk fabric samples expressed an increase in these proeprties when compared with unmordanted printed and alum mordanted printed silk fabric samples. It is thus concluded that pre mordanting of silk fabric with chitosan biopolymer for screen printing with indigo and lac dyes enhanced the depth of colour, sharpness of print, evenness of print, overall appearance of print and colour properties, colour fastness to various agencies as well as physical and functional properties of screen printed silk fabric samples. Hence, chitosan biopolymer can be successfully used as viable approach to replace the conventional metal based mordants.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Development of embroidered wall panels using traditional designs of Haryana
    (CCSHAU, Hisar, 2023-06) Sharma, Minakshi; Gill, Parul
    Handicrafts are considered a symbol of the culture and tradition of a community or race. Motifs depicting Haryanvi culture and rural life may be conceptualized to create new patterns unique to the Haryana state. The present study was conducted on the adaptation of the pictorial designs depicting Haryanvi culture and traditions for the development of wall panels through hand embroidery in combination with other embellishments. Initially, a total of 200 traditional designs of Haryana were collected from secondary sources like books, magazines, theses etc. The collected designs were screened by the researcher according to their suitability for wall panels. The 95 screened designs were categorized as household activities, farm activities, livestock rearing, dance and music, rituals and festivals, buildings and structures, crafts, games and miscellaneous activities. The highest number of screened designs were from household activities, dance and music and games categories i.e., 17 designs in each, whereas the lowest number of screened designs were from category crafts of Haryana i.e., 4 designs. The 95 screened designs were converted into pencil sketches with the help of software like ‘Photo Director’ and ‘Pencil Sketch Your Photo Online’. These converted designs were got assessed by thirty experts and ten most preferred designs were selected for further study. Using the combination of these selected designs, twenty-five placements were created with the help of Corel DRAW. Preferences for design placements were taken from the experts. Five colourways for each of the selected five design placements were prepared i.e. total 25 colourways were prepared and expert preferences were sought. Five most preferred colourways (i.e. one for each design) were selected for the purpose of development of wall panels. Fabric and base colour for wall panels were selected as per experts' preferences. Five wall panels were prepared using preferred design placements and colourways through hand embroidery in combination with other embellishments i.e., gotta, lace, fabric painting, mirror work and sequins work. The cost of each wall panel was determined by totaling the cost of raw material, labour and finishing charges. Developed wall panels were got assessed by thirty consumers for their acceptability on different design parameters and overall appearance. The price of wall panels was considered to be appropriate by the majority of consumers. Consumers strongly believed that these developed designs gave a traditional look to wall panels. They affirmed that they would like to purchase these types of wall panels. Therefore, it may be concluded that creativity and scope of designing for the development of wall panels were enhanced when traditional designs depicting Haryanvi culture were created through embroidery in combination with other embellishments.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Application of Biopolymer Nano Particles for Improving the Dye Uptake of Cotton Fabric
    (Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University hisar, 2023-09) Raveena; Verma, Mona
    Textile dyeing and printing industry is one of the most polluting sectors from an ecological point of view. There is need to approach new strategies, methods, material for dyeing treatment of cotton fabric with natural dyes using environment benign route. To achieve the objectives of the study, different sizes of biopolymer chitosan nano-particles for onion skin dye, were tried and one was selected on the basis of colour properties of dyed fabrics. Standardization of chitosan nano-particles treatment process for onion skin dye was done on the basis of colour properties i.e., dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness for different concentrations and conditions. It was found that the chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed higher dye absorption (69.36%), colour strength (18.54), wash fastness rating than alum treated dyed fabric (66.21%, 14.21 K/S respectively. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed higher crease recovery (90.5 degree) than alum treated (87.3 degree) dyed fabric. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabric showed increased bacterial resistance against E. coli (97.17 %) and S. aureus (98.30%) bacteria than alum treated dyed fabric (87.00 % and 84.74 %) respectively. The chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin fabric showed the higher UPF value (85.91) than with alum treated dyed cotton fabric (71.94). Chitosan nano-particle treated onion skin dyed fabrics demonstrated better of antibacterial and ultra-violet protection property than alum treated and dyed fabrics. Thus, it was concluded that chitosan treatment enhanced colour properties without using any harsh chemicals and is capable enough to replace the use of metallic salts in the dyeing of natural dye. The chitosan nano-particle treatment along with onion skin dye imparted the multi-functionality to the cotton fabric in terms of excellent UV protection, bacterial resistance and crease-resistant properties in effective manner with environmental benign way to curtail the pollution burden on environment.